Thanks for your lovely comments, dharma! I love learning of your experiences! The Kiton coat you mention sounds just exquisite.
My most recent Kiton experience was with a cashmere v-neck sweater that I got just last week via mail- the material and construction was divine, but in every way it was too big for me, despite being, numerically, "my size". I've experienced similar when trying on the button-front shirts they make, although I've not tried the pants or outerwear. I'm patient, though, and will keep trying different items here and there because the reputation of the company is that of being a true apex maker- no compromises, just like H. Perhaps, in time, I'll find my niche- that certainly was how it has been w/Cucinelli. I'd try things on in stores and never could find something that fit but now I've seemed to have struck upon a few lucky finds. I'm keeping fingers crossed that the luck holds.
I admire the Rick Owens women's clothing but confess I have not had much experience on the man's side. Dries is great. Watanabe (and other Japanese designers) would likely work well for me fit-wise- asians seem to create clothes that work well for other asians, I've found- but it is hard to find Watanabe clothes and I have not yet tried enough on to forge that bond. There is a store in San Francisco, which I visit once a year, called the Archive, which has a lot of asian designers that fit me well.
It is funny that you mention Chanel- I have dreamed of owning the men's version of a Chanel jacket (and have had a hard time trying to envision which designer best equates...perhaps there is nothing analogous...) . I have loved seeing the videos of Pharrel wearing the Chanel jackets- thank you for reminding me of that. I need to try harder to find an option along those lines. Perhaps this week I'll call up the Boston Chanel or the Beverly Hills one and see if they have any suggestions. I just finished reading an enjoyable book about Chanel so the house is front in my mind... I see on IG so many beautiful Chanel jackets worn by many of you lovely Tpfers and I always swoon a bit. I also have to admit to always lingering in the Chanel boutiques I see in Saks, Neimans, etc. and investigating the details of the pret-a-porter with admiration. I do not know women's clothing well enough, but it seems to me that there is an exquisite quality to Chanel clothing, especially jackets and suiting, that is somehow transcendent compared to other makers. Is it just me? Are there other designers that achieve the same "wow" factor?
I must admit that I am not organized enough to follow any plan or logic in my sartorial explorations, lol. For awhile I was focused on edgier, sleeker looks and, until very recently, was called to Givenchy (Tisci-era), Saint Laurent (Slimane era, primarily), Charvet (NOT edgy, but fits me so well), Alexander McQueen, Lanvin, and Balmain. All of these designers make clothes that require very little (if any) alterations for me, as they run small, at least on the men's side. Now, with the recent pleasant Cucinelli finds, I find myself returning to Italians (or Italian-French) to see if I can score the same luck I've found with Brunello, so I'm dipping the toe in the Kiton, Attolini, Brioni, Barbera, Berluti, Cifonelli, Eidos, Isaia, and Finamore waters again. It's been several years since I've tried some of these so perhaps the cut has changed on some. If I know myself, I'll probably dabble in these for the next several months and see if I find any that are soulmates along the lines of the Givenchy-Balmain spectrum previously mentioned. If not, so be it- I'll stay with the frenchies! I have very little reason to wear suits, so that also affects the whole equation- some of these Italian lines are centered around the art of suit-making and offer limited knits and sportswear.
I'm someone who loves trying things on when visiting stores. I live lamentably far from locations that carry the designers I mention above so unless I'm traveling I must order, en masse, vast quantities of these things from Saks, Neiman's, Bergdorfs, etc., and try things on in my home to see what works and what doesn't. Predictably, most gets returned, but this is usually my best option due to logistics. For these geographical reasons, when I travel my recreational time is spent in the boutiques and stores so I can get that experience that I lack when at home.
I wish I could say that my taste runs to a certain "look", "style", "attitude" or "ethos", but I find that it often does not. I appreciate vibrant color as much as the drama of an all-black palatte. Some of my greatest joys have come from trying on things I previously thought would never work for me but wound up being surprisingly perfect. I love that about fashion- the element of surprise...the way it can make you reconceptualize yourself...
I totally get the obsession phases, I do the same. I tend to follow and learn everything I can about a designer and then dive a little deep. I love to collect, curate and wear the clothes when I fall in love with a designer's work or philosophy. I dabbled a bit in Cuccinelli because of the story and even dreamed of moving to the town and becoming a barista or a spinner, lol. The pieces I have had held up very well but I do find some of the looks not quite me so I appreciate from a distance now. I'm surprised Kiton runs large for you, for women, they are quite narrow. I have one beautiful piece, a 3/4 coat, that is on another level entirely compared to most RTW. Like couture in it's fit and craftsmanship. I was happy to find it on sale and now this brand is on my radar. Other designers that I geek out over are Rick Owens, Dries Van Noten and Junya Wantanabe. They make up most of my wardrobe. I flirt with Chanel but it's too expensive for me to dig very deep. Have you tried Chanel jackets? Some guys are doing this, Pharel manages to style it with aplomb. I would love to hear more about how you select and curate your look. I do love the H pieces you've acquired and your restraint in knowing what works for you.
