Fashion Backward: Ugly, Done Just Right
http://www.nytimes.com/2006/10/19/fashion/19betty.html?ref=style
By
LOLA OGUNNAIKE
Published: October 19, 2006
ON the sets of television and film productions, makeup artists, wardrobe consultants and hair stylists are paid, more often than not, to make people look beautiful. Not at Ugly Betty, the new series on ABC, where the point is to make the title character, an assistant to the editor of a fashion magazine, look more fashion victim than fabulous.
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Michael Desmond/ABC
OUT OF IT America Ferrera as Betty Suarez in the ABC series Ugly Betty.
Mark Mainz/Getty Images
THE ART OF THE MAKEOVER The glamorous side of America Ferrera is carefully camouflaged for her role as an unsophisticated young working woman from Queens in Ugly Betty.
Karen Neal/ABC
A scene in a beauty shop with, from left, Thea Vidale, Ms. Ferrera and Ana Ortiz, playing Bettys sister.
Considering that Betty is played by the raven-haired America Ferrera, who is Hollywood-comely off-camera, her de-beautification is not as easy as it sounds.
Its a hard character to do, said Eduardo Castro, who handles the shows wardrobe. She cant be totally dumpy. She has to have some dignity to the way she dresses.
Bettys look isnt what most fashionistas would call dignified. She favors loud graphic blouses more befitting a secretary from the early 1980s, ill-fitting vests only a grandmother would love and large red Sally Jessy Raphael-type glasses. While her co-workers at Mode magazine are partial to whites, beiges and blacks, Betty chooses jackets that are turquoise, tops that are tomato red and braces that are bright blue. Her hair looks as if it would blanch at the phrase blow out.
Bettys look is no muss, no fuss and no priss, said the shows hairstylist, Roddy Stayton. Her idea of glamour is putting two rollers in her bangs.
So far, no muss no fuss is working. The show has an average of 14.8 million viewers a week and is the top-rated new network series of the fall. Critics have also praised the show, which chronicles the life of Betty Suarez, a young working-class woman from Queens who lives at home with her widower father, sassy sister and nephew.
This may come as little surprise to viewers outside the United States, since Ugly Betty is based on Betty la Fea, a Colombian telenovela that began seven years ago and is a hit in 70 countries. This Betty is even more sartorially challenged than her American counterpart.
Her look over there is little more obtuse, said Mr. Castro. It looks like they shop at places like Express. We have more money to spend, so we pull pieces from Roberto Cavalli, Dolce & Gabbana and Armani.
Like Sex and the City before it, fashion is an integral part of the show, so much so that an ABC Web site sells items worn by various characters everything from the leopard print Stuart Weitzman pumps to the Old Navy T-shirt.
But most of the threads Betty sports are not designer. Mr. Castro said he often shops at a warehouse for vintage clothes in downtown Los Angeles that has hideous rayon fabrics, sold by the pound, that he has transformed into outfits.
He also searches stores for the perfect Betty pieces. On the checklist: blouses with a strong graphic sense, he said. Some sort of Art Deco or floral pattern. He said that skirts with very large and colorful herringbone prints also work. We really want Betty to pop, he said. Its important that she stands out.
Betty, hardly the average chopstick-thin aspiring fashion editor, has not been one to fade into the background. In the season premiere, she dressed in a tacky tweed suit that would be a surefire dont in Glamour magazine. An oblivious Betty looked longingly at the poncho worn by a model sitting beside her. My dad got me one in Guadalajara, Betty said, in a bid to make small talk. Unimpressed, the model tersely shared the provenance of hers: Milan. Dolce Gabbana. Fall.
Days later Betty arrives at work in a red poncho that looks as if it came from a roadside kiosk in Mexico.
Mr. Stayton, who uses an assortment of wigs to achieve Bettys teased updo, said that the trickiest part is making the hair look natural. His inspiration? An around-the-way girl from Queens who is very simple in her fashion sense and a just a hint backwards, he said.
Beverly Jo Pryor, who styles Bettys wild eyebrows, which have never known the ministrations of a waxer, said she knew instinctively the hirsute look was right. Unruly eyebrows is the opposite of glamour, she said.
All involved in Ms. Ferreras daily transformation on the set in Los Angeles gush about how attractive the actress is in real life, and they get downright sentimental when discussing the Betty character. She represents that part of all of us, said Mr. Stayton, No matter how beautiful a person is, we all have our shortcomings. None of us are perfect.
And what if these beauty experts could give Betty a makeover, transforming her from ugly duckling to swan, like the fashion assistant in The Devil Wears
Prada, the hit summer movie with a similar premise?
Ms. Pryor said she would start with the brows and work her way down. Lets get the eyebrows waxed first. Lets do a little mascara, a little lipstick, and lets get clear braces, she said. I would also drop the red eyeglasses and go for contacts. A little lip gloss and a little blush.
She paused. She doesnt need a lot, she said, chuckling.
And maybe its best to let Betty be Betty. She may just start some trends of her own. Gloria Baume, a fashion editor at Teen Vogue, is a fan of the series, and said her readers are watching as well. She believes that Bettys geek-chic look could trickle down.
Im obsessed with the nerd look right now, Ms. Baume said, adding that a number of designers appear to be similarly taken with all things dorky. Paul Smith did it in London, she said. Lacoste did it here in New York. Luella also did the geek look. In her own kind of funny, twisted way, Betty has her own sense of style. Its kooky, but its totally her.