Reference: Guide to Hermes Scarves

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Ooohhh I wrote that here in 2008 ... 5000 - 7000 is not a bad guess of production per carre ca 1986 - when the number of 700,000 was floated. It is much higher today in 2018.
As to 100 - 200 issues per special issue - that deserves a bunch of caveats.
10 - 15 years ago, 100 was the minimum order for a special printing - I am sure there were some done in such small quantities but I cannot give an example for which I am absolutely certain.
The ABC Broadcasting 1984 Olympics was done in a batch of 1600 per Le Monde.
And of course, there is the question - what constituted a special issue ? The De Passage series will never come again - some people consider them to be special issues, but, as part of the regular collection they were definitely not done in limited quantities.
So, special issue is NOT synonymous with rare/ limited production, it depends
Very interesting! I started wondering about the 'how many scarves per colorway' question (for just the regular scarves) after seeing the 2018 Spring scarf thread where a lot of people were all buying/displaying the same colorway of a new scarf release. When you are at the boutiques, they often have a spotty selection of colorways so it made me think that there was less production than it appears. Having said that....I guess when you have a few hundred stores and 700-ish (I know MT said it was higher now) per colorway that it might be difficult to find a particular CW combo.
 
Very interesting! I started wondering about the 'how many scarves per colorway' question (for just the regular scarves) after seeing the 2018 Spring scarf thread where a lot of people were all buying/displaying the same colorway of a new scarf release. When you are at the boutiques, they often have a spotty selection of colorways so it made me think that there was less production than it appears. Having said that....I guess when you have a few hundred stores and 700-ish (I know MT said it was higher now) per colorway that it might be difficult to find a particular CW combo.
The key thing to know is that the figure of 700,000 (750k , I cant remember exactly) carres per year was published ca 1986 in Guerrand's book, well that was what 30 years ago ?? And it dates to the time when Hermes made hardly anything but 90cms, gavroches had barely been invested, CSGMs and Mousse GMs were very low production, all the other stuff - twilly, maxi, VS70 etc etc - had not been invented
 
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When you are at the boutiques, they often have a spotty selection of colorways so it made me think that there was less production than it appears.
Production qty is probably not the issue in stores.
Could be a hot seller ie gone asap
But also some managers do not order all cws in the same amounts , they ignore some cws entirely - diff stores have diff audiences
 
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Production qty is probably not the issue in stores.
Could be a hot seller ie gone asap
But also some managers do not order all cws in the same amounts , they ignore some cws entirely - diff stores have diff audiences
I agree with you. I was surprised to learn that the Sèvres boutique in Paris does not order all the cw for some designs for instance.
 
I agree with you. I was surprised to learn that the Sèvres boutique in Paris does not order all the cw for some designs for instance.

It is a very culturally & geographically related thing ...
some cws - reds , yellows - sell well in one place not another eg Asia
Is it winter or summer - are u in Southern Hemisphere ? Spring or fall collection ?
Some designs are nixed as politically incorrect in some countries , not all
 
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MIND BLOWN .... LIKE WOW MOMENT ...
Had to research an authentication of the new JUMPING, not the old Ledoux one . To me, it looks like a horseless border-only version of COUVERTURES ET TENUES
http://all-en.hermes.com/la-maison-...109445.html?xtmc=vintage_scarf&xtnp=2&xtcr=11
Ok it is vintage silk 90cm, that does make a difference in printing quality.
Here is the blow up of the photo directly at the Hermes site - This baby is AUTHENTIC !!! Cast a glance top left
http://all-en.hermes.com/hoscatalog/product/zoom/product_id/109445/
Trying to put artistic judgment aside since there are people who like scarves with crooked lines, heck, wriggly lines are sometimes more mesmerizing than straight lines cf MEDITERRANEE by Duvilier, I get it ....
There was a time when straight even lines were a hallmark of Hermes quality (I am trying to put this diplomatically).
 
MIND BLOWN .... LIKE WOW MOMENT ...
Had to research an authentication of the new JUMPING, not the old Ledoux one . To me, it looks like a horseless border-only version of COUVERTURES ET TENUES
http://all-en.hermes.com/la-maison-...109445.html?xtmc=vintage_scarf&xtnp=2&xtcr=11
Ok it is vintage silk 90cm, that does make a difference in printing quality.
Here is the blow up of the photo directly at the Hermes site - This baby is AUTHENTIC !!! Cast a glance top left
http://all-en.hermes.com/hoscatalog/product/zoom/product_id/109445/
Trying to put artistic judgment aside since there are people who like scarves with crooked lines, heck, wriggly lines are sometimes more mesmerizing than straight lines cf MEDITERRANEE by Duvilier, I get it ....
There was a time when straight even lines were a hallmark of Hermes quality (I am trying to put this diplomatically).
Blech....sorry, but this doesn't look like quality and i can't see spending the big money on it. Thanks MT....I can see why you say your mind was blown.
 
Blech....sorry, but this doesn't look like quality and i can't see spending the big money on it. Thanks MT....I can see why you say your mind was blown.
Well, to each his/ her own ... but I thought it was educational to bring up the way in which they now (sometimes) print
This is not a manufacturing defect - the JUMPINGs are all like that
 
Well, to each his/ her own ... but I thought it was educational to bring up the way in which they now (sometimes) print
This is not a manufacturing defect - the JUMPINGs are all like that
I should add - to me - a manufacturing defect is something out of the norms ie it was not supposed to happen like that - a one-off of sorts
In this case, all the JUMPINGs are similar, well maybe it was not supposed to happen like that - it could be a flawed manufacturing process but due to the extent of the tissue (all of them) it would have to be solved in a completely different fashion
 
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I should add - to me - a manufacturing defect is something out of the norms ie it was not supposed to happen like that - a one-off of sorts
In this case, all the JUMPINGs are similar, well maybe it was not supposed to happen like that - it could be a flawed manufacturing process but due to the extent of the tissue (all of them) it would have to be solved in a completely different fashion

My words could have been clearer, in this case, imho, they intended the broken printing, an intended feature - an issue with the design not with the manufacturing personnel
 
The key thing to know is that the figure of 700,000 (750k , I cant remember exactly) carres per year was published ca 1986 in Guerrand's book, well that was what 30 years ago ?? And it dates to the time when Hermes made hardly anything but 90cms, gavroches had barely been invested, CSGMs and Mousse GMs were very low production, all the other stuff - twilly, maxi, VS70 etc etc - had not been invented

I'd meant to come in this thread to search for some of this information and here you are talking about some of it!

Have the GM sizes been in production since before the 80's? Or did they only start around then? I've been trying to find the earliest references for them and getting varied results.

MIND BLOWN .... LIKE WOW MOMENT ...
Had to research an authentication of the new JUMPING, not the old Ledoux one . To me, it looks like a horseless border-only version of COUVERTURES ET TENUES
http://all-en.hermes.com/la-maison-...109445.html?xtmc=vintage_scarf&xtnp=2&xtcr=11
Ok it is vintage silk 90cm, that does make a difference in printing quality.
Here is the blow up of the photo directly at the Hermes site - This baby is AUTHENTIC !!! Cast a glance top left
http://all-en.hermes.com/hoscatalog/product/zoom/product_id/109445/
Trying to put artistic judgment aside since there are people who like scarves with crooked lines, heck, wriggly lines are sometimes more mesmerizing than straight lines cf MEDITERRANEE by Duvilier, I get it ....
There was a time when straight even lines were a hallmark of Hermes quality (I am trying to put this diplomatically).

Here's my take on this because there are a number of scarves lately with this "kind" of look. I think they are meant to look like prints of hand painted works. For example, in the upcoming season and also last season there were several "colorbock" styled scarves. Speaking as an artist, my feeling is that the human eye and brain "bond" (for lack a better term this early in the am) with a slightly looser "hand made" rendition or quality of an object, rather than if the same thing had been designed with perfect computer accuracy and straightness. At least, that's my feeling when I look at them. So for example, Centered Rhyme does nothing for me personally (too straight and angular though it may tie well, haven't looked), but I love my Mediterranee mousse with its abstract waves. It's actually a very nice abstraction. If the lines had all been the same width or computer generation straight and clean (they look "roller painted" so straight but with soft edges) it would have been a total fail, but of course, the suggestion of perspective make it.
 
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GMs first produced - do not know for certain since there were no 1970s scarf books, and the 1980s ones had only the 90s
They could have been invented in the 1970s - that is plausible
My vote is for the late 1970s - early 1980s after Jean Louis Dumas took over in 1978 - he shook up things a lot
 
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GMs first produced - do not know for certain since there were no 1970s scarf books, and the 1980s ones had only the 90s
THey could have been invented in the 1970s - that is plausible
My vote is for the late 1970s - early 1980s after Jean Louis Dumas took over in 1978 - he shook up things a lot

that would make sense
 
The ärtisanal (my word for wiggly lines) look of JUMPING - like hand painting - good point - agree that super straight lines are a bit off putting, eg Centered Rhyme
But the new JUMPING is a bit of an odd duck - it is both geometric and artisanal - oxymoron - whereas the previous artisanal designs eg Carre Kantha, Din Tini, Rhythm of China had an obvious hand made look
An oxymoron in a scarf , an interesting paradigm , need tot think about that - engaging idea
 
I hope it is okay to ask this question at this thread. I had asked earlier in the mousseline clubhouse but wanted to see perhaps @marietouchet can offer more of your knowledge on certain format availability for vintage design since I was not sure where this information can be found. I tried googling and did not come across anything.

Do you happen to know if Neige D'Antan design comes in the 90 mousseline format? I have only seen one member posted a picture of this design in the 45 mousseline format that was purchased from the bay. Thank you in advance.
 
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