Chanel RTW ~ Reveals, Chit-chat & Info thread

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#23,656
Brooklynite said:
I looked at my Chanel jackets...all pre VV (nothing has fit me or my lifestyle lately). Each jacket has 7-8 panels for the body part. Come to think of it...because of my petite frame, perhaps VV's jackets didn't fit me right because the bodies are mostly straight???
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I am on the petite side. I agree with Ari that part of the reason might be fashion trend, COVID situation (cut expenses or emphasis on comfort) in addition to construction. When I look at 21b look book, they are mostly too relaxed to me. I do enjoy the more tailored look, maybe due to my age or my legal profession. Couture jackets indeed worth it even if someday I will be lucky to own one. I don't see myself there yet because it's not for people who would just buy a few. My plan is, when it's truly safe to travel, I will visit Welsh & Jefferies in London and hopefully can request one or two with Mei (Quan YingMei), the first and only female tailor on Savile Row.

ABOUT US | Welsh & Jefferies

www.welshandjefferies.com www.welshandjefferies.com

As of now, I am content with what are easily accessible without much work or efforts. For our petite figure, I found certain brands offer good tailoring and material at reasonable cost such as Smythe, Saint Laurent which suit my need and daily life style; and Chanel especially the tweed jackets certainly are the sparkles of my closet offering many allure and details to study and enjoy.
 
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#23,657
ari said:
This is the cut for a jacket I was talking about. Karl’s jackets for RTW had quite similar cut. VV white jacket from cruise 2020 had similar cut, but most of her jackets have only 5 pieces 2 front, one back and 2 sleeves and are quite straight and simplified. Have you noticed the shoulders at the video? Just perfection. I think that the sleeves of this jacket had 3 seams and was made of 3 pieces.
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Sorry to jump in... I am not a regular here but enjoy reading everyone's post! You are all so knowledgeable!!

I think 20C was probably my favorite collection from Virginie if not one of my favorites :heart: I had major butterflies!!!
 
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#23,658
ari said:
Not really, but maybe combination of the lockdown, and making profit on easier to make clothes. I’m not sure, I see some of the new jackets have a perfect fit like the Metier D’art cream jacket, but it’s much more expensive, than Karl’s pre Covid jackets. I bought the pre fall 2020 and it’s one of these jackets with the simplified cut, I don’t like how it looks on, although at the first sight it looks like a classic Chanel jacket. The other thing is the fashion, it could be fashionable the jackets to be oversized and a bit off, like this Dior jacket. I’m not sure what it is, but I don’t like to pay a lot of money for something that’s easy to make…
I don’t understand also HC that doesn’t fit well…
But maybe I’m just old ..
The HC show had fantastic materials and colors.
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I have always had the suspicion that HC was cut larger because most of the clients were older or women who did not fit into the size 2-4 range. Of course the models are all tall and thin, and the pieces don't look like they fit well on them even though I am sure they are all fitted ahead of the show. It is deliberate, so the clients can determine what will work on them. Many of the clients never get to Paris and purchase right from the videos of the shows. The house sends a vendeuse and tailors and the pieces are fitted in the respective countries. There are collections of HC out there that never see the light of day in western countries.

Using less seams and pieces are cost cutting moves. IMO the beauty of Chanel design and tailoring was that it made the perfect fit so much easier to achieve. I understand that there were issues with the pandemic, but hopefully that should be resolved now and the house can go back to what it was known for regarding cut and fit. If not, then cost cutting measures and laziness are being employed. It almost makes me wonder if it isn't a better thing for VV to just go through the archives and use the older patterns of KL ,which showcase the tailoring. I would like to think that she can do the job without relying heavily on copying old work.
 
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#23,659
gracekelly said:
I have always had the suspicion that HC was cut larger because most of the clients were older or women who did not fit into the size 2-4 range. Of course the models are all tall and thin, and the pieces don't look like they fit well on them even though I am sure they are all fitted ahead of the show. It is deliberate, so the clients can determine what will work on them. Many of the clients never get to Paris and purchase right from the videos of the shows. The house sends a vendeuse and tailors and the pieces are fitted in the respective countries. There are collections of HC out there that never see the light of day in western countries.

Using less seams and pieces are cost cutting moves. IMO the beauty of Chanel design and tailoring was that it made the perfect fit so much easier to achieve. I understand that there were issues with the pandemic, but hopefully that should be resolved now and the house can go back to what it was known for regarding cut and fit. If not, then cost cutting measures and laziness are being employed. It almost makes me wonder if it isn't a better thing for VV to just go through the archives and use the older patterns of KL ,which showcase the tailoring. I would like to think that she can do the job without relying heavily on copying old work.
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who knows, perhaps Karl was strong enough a figure to challenge the numbers people whereas VV doesn't have nearly as much authority. With the "newly enhanced" prices I hope they return to better cut jackets too.
 
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#23,660
But wasn’t VV Lagerfelds right hand person for many years?

I would assume she is well acquainted with the classic multi seamed jacket and how to do riffs and variations, unless her brief from corporate is to cut costs. Although chanel is still privately owned, in 2020, it issued a publicly traded sustainability bond (apparently following the lead of other fashion houses to go green with specific goals (the first time public was allowed to buy shares; it raised 600 million euros). I am ignorant of whether this or any other reason would have any impact on quality/costs. This link leads to a WWD article https://finance.yahoo.com/news/chanel-debut-public-markets-green-174600211.html

OT, but when I see high RTW costs, I think about how much I like deals on other things like real estate. When DH and I were just out of graduate school in the 1990s, we purchased a nicely sized pre war, one bed/ one bath co-op apt two blocks west of a high luxury hotel in midtown NY and a bit south of the Park for 100K. (It was a much lower price than even market rates at the time bc the previous owners had upholstered rhe walls — even the bathroom — in pink and green brocade inset into the panel molding, with baroque built ins and mirrors). The apt down payment was substantially less than the cost of the car I received for my college graduation. and the retail price of the car was double the cost of the 16K white boucle jacket I tried on this month.

I also posted an inquiry in Perfume Chat thread, but if anyone here wears 28 La Pausa extrait and can tell me how It might compare or contrast to Frederic Malle Iris Poudre, I would be very grateful (I haven’t purchased chanel extrait recently)
 
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#23,661
ari said:
Ahaha, I also got the skirt and the simple too on sale now, but I’m waiting for the skirt to be lengthened, I’d never had doubts about the jacket, although it was in the expensive side. I bought it in London when the collection was out. I can’t wait for the skirt although I’m afraid it would be still short.
If the RTW fits you well, why bother with the special order, I’m sure it would have been very special, but still, I think it was about 20000 euro?
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I guess it’s about having something almost unique in the world, as the combo would be yours and yours only. The fit might be important to some who don’t always fit the standard Chanel sizing easily? Of course also the haute couture experience with 2 fittings, as not many do custom or bespoke items. I know clients who did this and Chanel do not seem to have repeated this project, although my Paris Cambon SA gave me the HC atelier contact to enquire if I wish. I think the ballpark is about €300000.
I got it in Paris in 2019 yes (?) and wore both pieces, jacket and skirt around Christmas there. I really look forward to wearing the 3 pieces together at some point soon.:flowers:
 
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#23,663
On the number of back panels on jackets, mine are a random mix - from 1 to 8, earlier years to recent. The higher number of 6-8 panels included jackets from 2011A Paris-Byzance LBJ, 17S Robot, 20B short LBJ and 21C magenta.

21A jacquard LBJ has 4 and it has the thicker chain, which is also found in 15A black swing jacket that has one back panel due to the shape. The rest are regular chains.

Would like to believe it highly depend on the cut/style of the jacket but also won’t rule out cost cutting consideration due to Covid.
 
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#23,668
ms piggy said:
On the number of back panels on jackets, mine are a random mix - from 1 to 8, earlier years to recent. The higher number of 6-8 panels included jackets from 2011A Paris-Byzance LBJ, 17S Robot, 20B short LBJ and 21C magenta.

21A jacquard LBJ has 4 and it has the thicker chain, which is also found in 15A black swing jacket that has one back panel due to the shape. The rest are regular chains.

Would like to believe it highly depend on the cut/style of the jacket but also won’t rule out cost cutting consideration due to Covid.
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I have an older jacket with Princess seams and multiple panels that I don’t think they would make today as it is too much work. I looked at the new black Metier jacket yesterday after this discussion began, and I was surprised at the number of panels in the back. I had to look at the lining as the tweed hides the stitching. That jacket is a great fit and only had minimal alterations.
 
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#23,670
channel55555 said:
My SA found this cardigan from pass season/last year, what do you think? Too plain nothing special? Should I get it?
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I have this sweater and I love it! It's easy to wear, easy to pair, and details that make it more interesting than a basic black cardigan. The buttons are gorgeous and sleeve detail unique. Definitely a keeper from my perspective. Sorry I don't have any mod shots but I've worn it with dark jeans for dinner and with dress pants for the holidays. Hope that helps!
 
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