Any guesses or speculation for Hedi’s 1st collection?
- Thread starter Spellwriter
- Start date
I too noticed the subtle differences in the old logo vs new logo on the Belt when I went to look at them at Saks. My Phantom Cabas has softened up, and although I love the leather on that one, I don’t know how I feel about purchasing a Belt bag that will wear the same. I think I would be open to trying Hedi’s more structured version, especially if it will be less slouchy in the long run.
I ended up choosing Phoebe’s version for two specific reasons - the leather felt more luxurious and had the look, feel, smell of the Celine leather that I am used to. It was also noticeably lighter and more comfortable to carry. The handle on Hedi’s version cut into my arm and the bag just appeared boxier and bulkier on me, whereas Phoebe’s version looked sleek and has a beautiful silhouette.
Usage of fur aside, I don't hate this collection, and I love the used of plaid and tweed for A/W (bit boring and something that's been in the high street stores like Zara etc. for at least a year now, but I like it). And there was a bag that caught my eye...we'll see when things hit the stores if that'll be my first Celine (no accent) bag.
Actually, I loved yesterday's show. Despite having tremendous respect and love for Slimane, I didn't really enjoy the first collection. I was sort of forcing myself to somehow "justify" the collection or find a new angle and perspective and appreciate it more, but I admit it was disappointing. However, the FW collection is whole different story.
One of the reasons why Slimane got harsh criticism after September show is that the clothes were not wearable and were only suitable for skinny "party girls" in their early 20s. The pieces from the new collection are very wearable, though. Midi dresses, culottes, well-tailored coats and thigh high boots can be easily worn by women despite their age and lifestyle.
Also, many items were reminiscent of 70s Celine and its DNA, for example the camel wool cape that the third model wore. In overall, I think it was very mature and well put together collection from Hedi.
One of the reasons why Slimane got harsh criticism after September show is that the clothes were not wearable and were only suitable for skinny "party girls" in their early 20s. The pieces from the new collection are very wearable, though. Midi dresses, culottes, well-tailored coats and thigh high boots can be easily worn by women despite their age and lifestyle.
Also, many items were reminiscent of 70s Celine and its DNA, for example the camel wool cape that the third model wore. In overall, I think it was very mature and well put together collection from Hedi.
This show surprised me very much because it reminded me of when I first caught notice of Celine. It was Michael Kors' Fall Winter 2001 collection. I loved Michael's Celine because of what it offered, Frenchness, Glamour, a woman that was done up but comfy and relaxed but a grown up chic Woman nonetheless. And this is what this collection threw me back to, but with Slimane's rock and roll twinge thrown in. I also loved how the models looked healthy and not strung out or sickly. His tailoring shone through and everything looked luxurious.
Although I know this isn't the case, it's as if he took the criticism of last runway, and set out to produce a wardrobe of clothes that grown women could wear, but that his young followers could find pieces as well.
The best thing though, was I couldn't say, "Oh he did that at Saint Laurent". In fact, what I could say is Anthony Vaccarello did boots similar to those he showed for one of his first Saint Laurent shows!
He still has runway diversity issues though...
Although I know this isn't the case, it's as if he took the criticism of last runway, and set out to produce a wardrobe of clothes that grown women could wear, but that his young followers could find pieces as well.
The best thing though, was I couldn't say, "Oh he did that at Saint Laurent". In fact, what I could say is Anthony Vaccarello did boots similar to those he showed for one of his first Saint Laurent shows!
He still has runway diversity issues though...
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I was scrolling through the collection pictures on Vogue.com and was surprised. It was so different from what I expected, and yet it was still Hedi in some way.
It's cool to hate on Hedi these days but as a customer of Dior Homme by Hedi, SLP by Hedi, and an early collector of Phoebe for Celine, I have to say that I love and appreciate the new direction of Celine by Hedi.
As much as I loved the early days of Phoebe at Celine, I cannot get behind the experimental and arts and crafts vibe of the later collections (post-2015?). Also, her leather goods (eg, the luggage) have started to feel trite and demode since 2014. Let's not forget that most of her greatest hits are heavily influenced by Lang and MM for Hermes.
I enjoy Hedi's RTW for the sharp and clean lines and most importantly, the fit. No one else can cut a garment that fits like it was custom-made for me. He has always had issues with bags, however, both at SLP and Celine. I think he could edit the selection of accessories better and limit the range of offerings to increase desirability (there's really no market for the quilted C bag and the new horsebit bags that he showed yesterday, IMH). I'm sure the design team was feeling the pressure to create the next "it" bag so they threw the entire archive on the runway, hoping to find one that would stick.
As much as the collection yesterday was derived from the original Celine, I can still see a lot Hedi in it (and maybe a bit of Ralph Lauren and Michael Kors, god forbid). The styling and set helped as well. I think it's perfect for the effortless and cool French girls with a penchant for the 70s. I personally would love a pair of the flouncy pleated culottes myself, if I could pull off the look.
As much as I loved the early days of Phoebe at Celine, I cannot get behind the experimental and arts and crafts vibe of the later collections (post-2015?). Also, her leather goods (eg, the luggage) have started to feel trite and demode since 2014. Let's not forget that most of her greatest hits are heavily influenced by Lang and MM for Hermes.
I enjoy Hedi's RTW for the sharp and clean lines and most importantly, the fit. No one else can cut a garment that fits like it was custom-made for me. He has always had issues with bags, however, both at SLP and Celine. I think he could edit the selection of accessories better and limit the range of offerings to increase desirability (there's really no market for the quilted C bag and the new horsebit bags that he showed yesterday, IMH). I'm sure the design team was feeling the pressure to create the next "it" bag so they threw the entire archive on the runway, hoping to find one that would stick.
As much as the collection yesterday was derived from the original Celine, I can still see a lot Hedi in it (and maybe a bit of Ralph Lauren and Michael Kors, god forbid). The styling and set helped as well. I think it's perfect for the effortless and cool French girls with a penchant for the 70s. I personally would love a pair of the flouncy pleated culottes myself, if I could pull off the look.
I found it surprisingly non-infuriating and quite wearable.
I liked the clothes and the overall mood of the collection. It’s a bit pastiche, but well crafted and executed.
I’m still not really liking any of the bags though and would still like to see a bit more diversity on the runway.
I guess I’m just not really a present era Céline kinda lady, but at least I feel better about the direction the brand is going in now.
I liked the clothes and the overall mood of the collection. It’s a bit pastiche, but well crafted and executed.
I’m still not really liking any of the bags though and would still like to see a bit more diversity on the runway.
I guess I’m just not really a present era Céline kinda lady, but at least I feel better about the direction the brand is going in now.
Forgot to mention that the belts were also a bit to on the nose for me - some of them looked a lot like Ferragamo and some like the Gucci horsebit.
I think it would have been cooler and more current with minimalistic belts.
But I guess he just likes shiny and obvious hardware a lot more than me.
I think it would have been cooler and more current with minimalistic belts.
But I guess he just likes shiny and obvious hardware a lot more than me.
I am actually unaware of what you mean by this, could you please share pictures, or even names, of what designs you refer to? It would be interesting to see what makes you draw that conclusion.
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I am actually unaware of what you mean by this, could you please share pictures, or even names, of what designs you refer to? It would be interesting to see what makes you draw that conclusion.
If you look at the Hermes collections from 1998 to 2001, you can find a lot of similarities to what Phoebe did so well at Celine. The same with Helmut Lang as well, especially the 02-04 era. Phoebe made them her own in the early days of Celine but you can see still see the ghosts in her wardrobe stables such as the knitwear with slits and long sleeves, coats, furs, and the baggy trousers with trainers.
This will be an unpopular opinion but after reading all the praise, I really hope he doesn’t continue in this direction. I really miss his SL era, channeling Stevie Nicks, Courtney Love, Patti Boyd, Anita Pallenberg, Sable Starr and Lori Maddix, Siouxsie Sioux, Kate Moss at Glastonbury, the list goes on. Many designers try to do what he did there, but they never match his authenticity.
The spirit of this “bourgeois” collection (barring the sequins and leather jackets) was the antithesis of his womenswear oeuvre, which is why I can’t see him keeping this up for long. He’s done 70s culottes and blouses before, but styled in a glam rock context (pre-fall 2016), not middle-of-the-road like this.
I think this collection, although sincere, was based in a defiant and subversive response to his critics, similar to his grunge collection after critics trashed his first YSL collection. “Here’s your old Celine.” I want to see him succeed on his own terms. I hope he now has the trust and confidence to find his footing in something more authentic.
The spirit of this “bourgeois” collection (barring the sequins and leather jackets) was the antithesis of his womenswear oeuvre, which is why I can’t see him keeping this up for long. He’s done 70s culottes and blouses before, but styled in a glam rock context (pre-fall 2016), not middle-of-the-road like this.
I think this collection, although sincere, was based in a defiant and subversive response to his critics, similar to his grunge collection after critics trashed his first YSL collection. “Here’s your old Celine.” I want to see him succeed on his own terms. I hope he now has the trust and confidence to find his footing in something more authentic.