I'm sorry but this BURBERRYCELINEBALENCIAGA is really awful. At least it seems very, very different from the rest.
Any guesses or speculation for Hedi’s 1st collection?
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So it's full steam ahead beyond womenswear with the introduction of Celine's Haute Parfumerie.
11 unisex fragrances available exclusively from Celine boutiques from late October.
Names:
Parade
Saint-Germain-des-Prés
Dans Paris
Cologne Française
Bois Dormant
La Peau Nue
Rimbaud
Eau de Californie
Reptile
Black Tie
Nightclubbing
The scents will be $220 per 100 milliliters.
1. Saint-Germain-des-Prés
According to Burr, it smells like:
- “A work of impressionism.”
- “The scent of this specific, chic, moneyed Paris neighborhood and the Parisian families who have lived there for generations.”
- Blurred photographs of those families who live there.
2. Reptile
According to Burr, it smells like:
- “The scents of black pepper and crystal meth.”
- “At once edible and thrillingly poisonous.”
- “A guy before us in a python jacket and toting a gun.”
- “An opaque, dangerous-looking, vulnerable-feeling man in liquid form.”
According to Slimane, it smells like:
- “A glittering olfactory kaleidoscope of all the rock stars that I have photographed and dressed for the stage over the past 25 years.”
- “An elegant top note, while immoral and poisonous notes build in, leaving an addictive patina smelling of powder, incense, stardust and glitter.”
3. Cologne Française
According to Burr, it smells like:
- “Shadowed, dappled and warm.”
- “Sweet and soft.”
According to Slimane, it smells like:
- “A trompe l’oeil classicism.”
- “Desire.”
- “A kind of femininity and softness in contradiction with a masculine olfactory structure.”
4. Rimbaud
According to Burr, it smells like:
- “The poet’s [Rimbaud’s] youth.”
According to Slimane, it smells like:
- “The idea of being 17 years old, the realm of possibilities.”
- “Teenage subtle fragility but also the spleen.”
5. Nightclubbing
According to Burr, it smells like:
- “Sharply focused photos of the club at 4 p.m., doors open to air it out a bit; the hot lights are off but the hot metal scent lingers on the leather of the booth seats.”
- He does not recommend this scent “for a hot evening at Sound in L.A.”
According to Slimane, it smells like:
- “Nights I spent growing up as a club kid in Paris from age 15 at Le Palace or Les Bains Douches.”
- “Strictly Parisian, smoky and as decadent as can be.”
6. Black-Tie
According to Slimane, it smells like:
- “A strict interpretation of my style in fashion, a sharp and dark composition, completely androgynous.”
7. Bois Dormant
According to Burr, it smells like:
- “The smoke of burning wood, the fir tree in the winter cold.”
According to Slimane, it smells:
- “Aristocratic.”
- “Like the library of a Parisian hôtel particulier from the 18th century.”
8–9. Dans Paris and Parade
According to Slimane, they smell like:
“A form of purely French neoclassicism.” Especially Parade. He likes to wear that one for day time.
Source
Edit: Emphasis mine.
Names:
Parade
Saint-Germain-des-Prés
Dans Paris
Cologne Française
Bois Dormant
La Peau Nue
Rimbaud
Eau de Californie
Reptile
Black Tie
Nightclubbing
The scents will be $220 per 100 milliliters.
1. Saint-Germain-des-Prés
According to Burr, it smells like:
- “A work of impressionism.”
- “The scent of this specific, chic, moneyed Paris neighborhood and the Parisian families who have lived there for generations.”
- Blurred photographs of those families who live there.
2. Reptile
According to Burr, it smells like:
- “The scents of black pepper and crystal meth.”
- “At once edible and thrillingly poisonous.”
- “A guy before us in a python jacket and toting a gun.”
- “An opaque, dangerous-looking, vulnerable-feeling man in liquid form.”
According to Slimane, it smells like:
- “A glittering olfactory kaleidoscope of all the rock stars that I have photographed and dressed for the stage over the past 25 years.”
- “An elegant top note, while immoral and poisonous notes build in, leaving an addictive patina smelling of powder, incense, stardust and glitter.”
3. Cologne Française
According to Burr, it smells like:
- “Shadowed, dappled and warm.”
- “Sweet and soft.”
According to Slimane, it smells like:
- “A trompe l’oeil classicism.”
- “Desire.”
- “A kind of femininity and softness in contradiction with a masculine olfactory structure.”
4. Rimbaud
According to Burr, it smells like:
- “The poet’s [Rimbaud’s] youth.”
According to Slimane, it smells like:
- “The idea of being 17 years old, the realm of possibilities.”
- “Teenage subtle fragility but also the spleen.”
5. Nightclubbing
According to Burr, it smells like:
- “Sharply focused photos of the club at 4 p.m., doors open to air it out a bit; the hot lights are off but the hot metal scent lingers on the leather of the booth seats.”
- He does not recommend this scent “for a hot evening at Sound in L.A.”
According to Slimane, it smells like:
- “Nights I spent growing up as a club kid in Paris from age 15 at Le Palace or Les Bains Douches.”
- “Strictly Parisian, smoky and as decadent as can be.”
6. Black-Tie
According to Slimane, it smells like:
- “A strict interpretation of my style in fashion, a sharp and dark composition, completely androgynous.”
7. Bois Dormant
According to Burr, it smells like:
- “The smoke of burning wood, the fir tree in the winter cold.”
According to Slimane, it smells:
- “Aristocratic.”
- “Like the library of a Parisian hôtel particulier from the 18th century.”
8–9. Dans Paris and Parade
According to Slimane, they smell like:
“A form of purely French neoclassicism.” Especially Parade. He likes to wear that one for day time.
Source
Edit: Emphasis mine.
What? It smells like the spleen? That is the funniest I’ve read in a long while, Thank you OneMoreDay. Also, who wants to smell like a nightclub at 4 a.m? Possible new name: L’eau de Desperation and Sweat.
Classic Hedi.
Also, who wants to smell like a nightclub at 4 a.m? Possible new name: L’eau de Desperation and Sweat.
I actually wasn't bothered to read the descriptions because there were no note breakdowns.
But based on the descriptions alone, there are two diverging identities at Celine right now. From a marketing standpoint, it's pure Hedi. A conflicted Hedi, for sure, because the inspirations are so specifically targeted towards the Hedi-heads, whose makeup at Celine is probably mostly menswear. He was forced to take a different direction with the latest womenswear collection after the criticisms of the first show.
the bottle design looks so boring. like something D&G has done years ago.
https://www.fragrantica.com/perfume/Dolce-Gabbana/D-G-Anthology-L-Imperatrice-3-6086.html
https://www.fragrantica.com/perfume/Dolce-Gabbana/D-G-Anthology-L-Imperatrice-3-6086.html
The D&G Anthology bottles have flat sides, similar to Chanel's Le Exclusifs. Even YSL's Le Vestiare exclusive line has the same kind of basic shape, but slightly elongated.
I like the prismatic effect of the pillar flutes on the Celine bottles. Very reminiscent of roman columns. There's even a vault underneath, giving it a more sculptural quality.
I found this vintage bag listed on Etsy - looks like Hedi's tassels bag is another almost direct copy from the Celine archive. https://www.etsy.com/listing/689720452/celine-cross-body-box-bag
I wonder how the bag/accessories design team works under Hedi. Given how many of the bags so far are copies of vintage pieces, are the design team getting much scope to actually propose/create their own designs? I wonder what their role is like (especially compared to what Phoebe's team was like).
I wonder how the bag/accessories design team works under Hedi. Given how many of the bags so far are copies of vintage pieces, are the design team getting much scope to actually propose/create their own designs? I wonder what their role is like (especially compared to what Phoebe's team was like).
New arrivals for AW19.
SMALL CRÉCY BAG IN AMAZONE SATINATED CALFSKIN
SMALL CRÉCY BAG IN NATURAL TAN CALFSKIN
MEDIUM CRÉCY BAG IN BLACK SATINATED CALFSKIN
MEDIUM CRÉCY BAG IN BURGUNDY SATINATED CALFSKIN
SMALL CRÉCY BAG IN AMAZONE SATINATED CALFSKIN
SMALL CRÉCY BAG IN NATURAL TAN CALFSKIN
MEDIUM CRÉCY BAG IN BLACK SATINATED CALFSKIN
MEDIUM CRÉCY BAG IN BURGUNDY SATINATED CALFSKIN
CRECY CAMERA BAG IN BLACK SHINY LAMBSKIN
CRECY CAMERA BAG IN NUDE SHINY LAMBSKIN
CRECY CAMERA BAG IN GREY WATERSNAKE
CRECY CAMERA BAG IN AMAZONE LIZARD
CRECY CAMERA BAG IN NUDE SHINY LAMBSKIN
CRECY CAMERA BAG IN GREY WATERSNAKE
CRECY CAMERA BAG IN AMAZONE LIZARD
Even though I am the biggest Philophile and will not purchase anything from new Celine under Hedi (even though I do find his past work at Saint Laurent and Dior incredible) - I do have to comment that Phoebe and her team profusely referenced from the vintage archives also. MANY of the seasonal and runway pieces she released were direct references and copies of vintage items.
Can we have a Céline forum and a Celine forum separately? i'm tired of seeing Hedi's stuff.
Thanks for pointing that out - I actually hadn't started to look at vintage Celine until more recently, so I didn't notice Phoebe's references/copies at the time during her tenure. However, maybe I haven't seen a wide enough selection of vintage Celine, but even when I look through vintage stuff now I feel like Phoebe tended to reference it and extend it and modernise it, and I don't see much direct copying (but like I said, maybe I just haven't seen a wide enough range of vintage). I guess part of what I really appreciated about her vision was that she was somewhat rooted in a 70s and sometimes 60s or 80s aesthetic, but she reinterpreted it and combined it with new things and presented something fresh and exciting. It didn't feel like a pastiche or an homage to a historical era. I find Hedi so much more literal and much more direct in his referencing of historical eras (whether previously in some of his Saint Laurent collections or now at Celine), which I find boring and which I think is partly what I find dissatisfying about his work. His work at Dior Homme proposed something new and bold and that wasn't a pastiche, which is why it was such a revelation at the time. It felt like Phoebe was also presenting something new and bold when she was at the helm of Celine, and it really doesn't feel like Hedi is. But there's certainly some confirmation bias going on on my part - I definitely notice and am critical of any of Hedi's direct copies, perhaps in a way I wouldn't have been of Phoebe!
Another reference to the Celine archive - the new Spring 20 show had a belt and bag based on a vintage 60s Celine belt. It was worn by Jacqueline Bisset and Brigitte Bardot in the 70s.
