all handmade?

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#76
ElmwoodBuffalo, I see you're somewhat new to tpf.

I can't speak for the Birkin as I don't own one, but both my Kelly's (one from 2008 - bought in a Boutique; one from 1973), have NO stitching under the lock unless you're referring to the stitching on the bottom of the flap through which the turnbuckle fastens. I put my bags under a magnifying light (like one uses for needlework), and ALL my stitches are what you refer to as "right slant" - the entire bag. We've all seen too many videos made by Hermes showing how the stitching is done on a Kelly or a Birkin for me to believe that these stitches are made by a hand-guided machine. I have no idea what the your source is for this "right slant/left slant" thing, but I don't believe it is correct.
 
#77
India said:
ElmwoodBuffalo, I see you're somewhat new to tpf.

I can't speak for the Birkin as I don't own one, but both my Kelly's (one from 2008 - bought in a Boutique; one from 1973), have NO stitching under the lock unless you're referring to the stitching on the bottom of the flap through which the turnbuckle fastens. I put my bags under a magnifying light (like one uses for needlework), and ALL my stitches are what you refer to as "right slant" - the entire bag. We've all seen too many videos made by Hermes showing how the stitching is done on a Kelly or a Birkin for me to believe that these stitches are made by a hand-guided machine. I have no idea what the your source is for this "right slant/left slant" thing, but I don't believe it is correct.
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Sorry, yes, I meant the stitching on the flap which seems standard for the bags, as it is the most common stitch that can be seen from the outside of the bag. Yes, I am very new. For the record, Hermes is awesome. Love their products. But I also think it is important for me to know how a product is made, So I asked Hermes how they do it.

I included the email sent to me from Hermes customer service below.
The customer service people at Hermes sent me this response to my inquiry.... I really like Hermes.

"ANSWER TO YOUR MESSAGE


Bonjour,


Thank you for visiting Hermes.com.

Please note that some parts of the handbags [Kelly and Birkin] are machine stitch and some are hand stitch. For more information you can contact us at 1800-441-4488 and a shopping specialist will be happy to assist you.


Again, we appreciate your interest in Hermès and we look forward for your next visit with us.

If you need additional information, please answer this message and keep the request reference..in the title of your e-mail. "
 
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#78
I forgot to point to where the stitching differs. I was told by a leather worker who repairs bags that he has seen "lock" stitching (machine) on Hermes, even on vintage pieces. He said they are very good bags.

Parts that are hand sewn with a saddle stitch using two needles held in hand are the parts most likely to break; handles, handles attached to the bag, corners, tabs, etc. It was implied to me that the amount of machine stitching may vary depending on the type of bag. (My opinion here) I would expect this is to control for costs. I once read that one of the major cost to Hermes bags is the excellent hardware and skins they use.
 
#79
ALL my stitches are what you refer to as "right slant" - the entire bag. We've all seen too many videos made by Hermes showing how the stitching is done on a Kelly or a Birkin for me to believe that these stitches are made by a hand-guided machine. I have no idea what the your source is for this "right slant/left slant" thing, but I don't believe it is correct.[/QUOTE]

ITA ,Same with mine , bought at the Faubourg .
 
#80
ElmwoodBuffalo said:
I was told that the Birkins and Kellys have both hand stitching and hand guided into a sewing machine stitching. You can see it in the bag too. Look at the front under the lock. The stitching goes " /////" with a slant to the RIGHT, that is a sewing machine. Now look at the handles attachments or the tag, the stitching goes "\\\\\ " slanted to the LEFT, that is the hand-stitche (where the artisan holds two needs and thread to make a saddle stitch).

//// = Right slant = sewing machine
\\\\ = Left slant = hand held needles

(Something similar happens in knitting too from machine to hand like a mirror.)
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I find this unclear with just descriptions in words. It will be great if you could share some photos of the different stitches on a B or K. TIA!
 
#81
xiangxiang0731 said:
I find this unclear with just descriptions in words. It will be great if you could share some photos of the different stitches on a B or K. TIA!
Click to expand...

I am far from being an expert in handbags. I am familiar (still not an "expert" compared to my instructors) with needlework both by hand and machine.

Here is an example of stitching by machine vs saddle on the same bag:
http://leatherrescue.com/machine+vs+hand+sewing.jpg

An easy why to see if something is hand stitched, compare the direction of the stitches with a handbag you know is machine made.

For the record, if you ask if a Hermes bag is "handmade" the answer is 100% yes. If you ask if it is "hand sewn" you will get a yes. If you ask if it is "hand stitched" you will get the "some parts are" answer. The reason is that in the craft/artisan world of sewing (not necessarily other crafts like knitting) a sewing machine is considered "handmade and handcrafted and Hand sewn" because a person has to make decisions, watch for problems, and correct them. It is a matter of higher order thinking. But a "stitch" is a very simple definition. Who or what made the stitch requires a specific answer. I have seen many beautiful quilts made by a women in her home on a sewing machine. I have also seen (but can't afford) the quilts on the huge looms stitched by hand. Both are wonderful. But one can take 12 months to make.
 
#82
ElmwoodBuffalo said:
I am far from being an expert in handbags. I am familiar (still not an "expert" compared to my instructors) with needlework both by hand and machine.

Here is an example of stitching by machine vs saddle on the same bag:
http://leatherrescue.com/machine+vs+hand+sewing.jpg

An easy why to see if something is hand stitched, compare the direction of the stitches with a handbag you know is machine made.

For the record, if you ask if a Hermes bag is "handmade" the answer is 100% yes. If you ask if it is "hand sewn" you will get a yes. If you ask if it is "hand stitched" you will get the "some parts are" answer. The reason is that in the craft/artisan world of sewing (not necessarily other crafts like knitting) a sewing machine is considered "handmade and handcrafted and Hand sewn" because a person has to make decisions, watch for problems, and correct them. It is a matter of higher order thinking. But a "stitch" is a very simple definition. Who or what made the stitch requires a specific answer. I have seen many beautiful quilts made by a women in her home on a sewing machine. I have also seen (but can't afford) the quilts on the huge looms stitched by hand. Both are wonderful. But one can take 12 months to make.
Click to expand...

Yep that to me makes my Evelyne handmade, the fact that its been stitched by machine doesn't bother me. Its not been through a huge production line as such. IYKWIM!
 
#85
if the thread is waxed linen, then the stitching is hand-done; if the thread is not waxed linen, then the stitching is machine-done. by and large, visible stitching is hand-done whereas the stitching which is not normally visible because it is hidden in the seams of the bag (for example) is machine-done.
 
#87
crazyforhermes said:
I have looked carefully at your picture and the only thing I can find to explain this is that canadian artisans stitch on the different side than the French :giggles:
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Not sure how this post was meant.

But Look again at the photos. They are of a Hermes bag, last I knew Hermes was made in France. NOTE: both photos of stitching are from the same handbag !

Fakes have all the stitching in the same direction. Authentic Hermes have most of the stitching in //// then have the handles sewn on with a \\\\ stitch. ;) You can see this by lifting the flap and comparing the sticking on the handles to the rest of the bag.

It is true that in different countries there is a tendency for flipping the stitches in one manner or another. But with 100% hand stitched most artisan use the same method throughout on item/bag except when using a sewing machine. Sewing machines match the direction used in English saddle stitch but not French. For Hermes, by not copying the direction of sewing machine stitch on the handles they are essentially creating a "finger print" for their identity. Also, individual stitches done by hand are not identical, each stitch is slightly different and spaced differently.

I do not own a Birkin...but is someone could take a picture of their bag and post it it would be helpful. When taking the photo take a straight on shot. Tuck the flap into the bags the Hermes label is center. This way we can see the handles and the sticking running at the rim of the bag. If part of the flap stitches are in the picture that is great too. The flap and the rim stitches will run in the same direction, opposite the handle stitches.

You can see the stitching on this bag, at least until the item is sold.
http://www.malleries.com/hermes-birkin-bag-40-h-orange-togo-palladium-i-57688-s-2636.html
 
#88

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#89
I believe the whole handle is hand stitched not just the attachment point. I have been following some threads on leather worker forums and they had the Hermes artisan photos of them hand stitching the handle together. I don't own the photos or I would post here. I am hoping to get to a point where I can authenticate Hermes like the pros on this site. Oh, and yes the photo is correctly labeled.
 
#90
Just out of curiousity......how about Lindy? Is Lindy's handmade?

I've been :reading::reading: on authentication threads......finally I can understand..........how to spot genuine vs fake items....still needs to see items IRL........as I'm yet to touch my 1st Birkin/ Kelly!!
 
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