Riccardo Tisci leaving Burberry; Daniel Lee appointed new CCO

[Christofle]

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Thank you for letting me spam lol.

Thoughts? Comments?

It’s a swing and miss for me. I know Lee said that his focus wasn’t on a cohesive look but rather to make each item quintessential to the brand… With that said even if I look at each item separately I don’t feel that they are quintessentially British nor do I feel some form of genuine cohesiveness. Just looking at the various photos I wouldn’t be able to guess if they were all from the Burberry or from literally any other brand.

 

[lill_canele]

It’s a swing and miss for me. I know Lee said that his focus wasn’t on a cohesive look but rather to make each item quintessential to the brand… With that said even if I look at each item separately I don’t feel that they are quintessentially British nor do I feel some form of genuine cohesiveness. Just looking at the various photos I wouldn’t be able to guess if they were all from the Burberry or from literally any other brand.

Kind of same here. I will say the color-palette is more me (aka more boring lol). But I'm probably interested in maybe only 2 items. I'll have to see if and when they come into stores how they are in-person.

 

[IntheOcean]

I do like some of what I'm seeing. I wouldn't necessarily say this collection is Burberry through and through... but some of the pieces look nice.

 

[despair]

My partner and I only started looking at Burberry last year, and so far have only bought RTW, no bags. We were somehow invited to the FW2023 preview and ordered several pieces, and only just managed to go into the store yesterday to pick up. I really find the Daniel Lee pricing to be a little OTT - we had paid for two EKD tees during the preview (S$1,250 - which is actually priced a little higher than LV), but the collar was so small in the production pieces that we both opted to switch out to something else. I saw a cotton long sleeve that was quite nice but got a bit of sticker shock as it was S$1,850, when a corduroy jacket from pre-DL times that I was also considering was at S$1,450. Another jacket I was eyeing turned out to be S$3,550. In the end I still opted for the long sleeve shirt since nothing else really caught my eye, but I am quite confused as to who exactly this new Burberry is targeting...

 

[880]

Have not liked Burberry since the solid metallic trench coats, maybe 2004, with Bailey.
I don’t think Lee is a good fit, but I disliked RT in the role.

 

[jaskg144]

Just reviving this thread to share what I thought about the new collection after seeing some of it in person at Burberry's Regent St store in London last weekend.

I think it is good that RT is out and that Burberry is heading in a new direction. It definitely seems that they are wanting to revive the brand and bring it back into the mainstream after the last era didn't work out very well. The SA who helped me was very excited to talk about the new collection and urged me to try on the new bags. The bags were ok, I am not a huge fan of any of the new styles - but they definitely felt well made and the materials used (minus the faux-fur) were very nice. I would rather no 'fur' at all than faux-fur as it just always ends up looking and feeling cheap, especially on a bag that is £3k+. I didn't have time to look at RTW, so I can't comment on that.

I do hope we will see Burberry have an 'it' bag that really takes off and becomes a classic, but I can't see that happening with any of the new designs so far. I think the closest we have had to that in recent years is the Banner (which was horrendously redeveloped and then discontinued) .

I think I'll always feel a longing for CB to return (I know that will never happen) and will always prefer his collections, but it's exciting to see what the future holds for Burberry. I just hope they don't lose their heritage in trying to be current.

 

[S0nia]

What I'll never understand about Burberry is:
Why is it that every time they want to revive it, they always have to take all the way down the rabbit hole? I got to visit London a few times during peak chav era and boy did the brand got cheapened. There was Nova Check print *E-V-E-R-Y-W-H-E-R-E*.
Almost killed the brand. Riccardo Tisci stuff had exactly the same vibe. Why?
Why can't Burberry experiment in the other direction? I feel the brand should position itself among the Ralph Lauren, Brunello Cuccinelli and other such brand. I don't find them credible as a streetwear brand nor as an edgy brand. To me they're a BCBG (preppy) brand.
Just my opinion.

 

[lill_canele]

London Fashion Week February 2024
(Photo credit: diet_prada)

 

[Christofle]

What I'll never understand about Burberry is:
Why is it that every time they want to revive it, they always have to take all the way down the rabbit hole? I got to visit London a few times during peak chav era and boy did the brand got cheapened. There was Nova Check print *E-V-E-R-Y-W-H-E-R-E*.
Almost killed the brand. Riccardo Tisci stuff had exactly the same vibe. Why?
Why can't Burberry experiment in the other direction? I feel the brand should position itself among the Ralph Lauren, Brunello Cuccinelli and other such brand. I don't find them credible as a streetwear brand nor as an edgy brand. To me they're a BCBG (preppy) brand.
Just my opinion.

I fully agree and always gravitated towards the preppier Prorsum pieces. I wonder if they fear they might get lost amongst the many other preppy British brands on Savile Row though.

 

[silvester]

London Fashion Week February 2024
(Photo credit: diet_prada)

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I really enjoyed this collection, it felt very much like Daniel saying "Ya'll loved Christopher's Burbs, well here it is, but I'll do it MY way." It felt like it harkened back to those early 2000's collections, where it was all about the outerwear and substantial outerwear at that. And from what I've read, Christopher and Daniel are friends.

In my opinion, while it's been a rocky road, I think with this collection, you can finally and clearly see the vibe that Daniel wants at Burberry. It's going to take any designer time to really hone and course correct a brand, harder for one so big as Burberry. But I think slowly we'll start to see it happen.

Those tailored mens overcoats were drool worthy!

Curiously though, a friend and I were discussing, and I'd love to hear thoughts. But honestly, if you swapped the Burberry Tags for a Bottega Veneta tag, how many people would go crazy for it? And I'm asking honestly and genuinely. Just as some spirited conversations. I ask because I love cars, and I watch loads of car reviews, and one of my favourite reviewers, highly impartial, never subjective, constantly says that if you swapped a Mercedes logo for a Genesis logo, an individual wouldn't really tell the difference. So I always wonder if it's the same with fashion brands. I think so.