I agree. The notes are all over the place for some of the fragrances and sometimes don't even match what the bottles say.
Perfume Chat Thread
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I wouldn’t base my buying decisions on the nose, but it can sway me towards sampling something or not.
In the early days of my perfume exploration I paid more attention to the house or even a particular perfume note or category than I did to the perfumer/nose. Gradually as my sampling increased I began to pay more attention to the perfumer.
Of course in the early days, the perfume houses I enjoyed often had the same perfumer/nose composing several of their creations so one could perhaps make the argument that it was really the perfumer’s work that was directing my choices. Today the market has changed and there are so many perfumes being produced- it’s a crowded field. I would assume that good noses are very much in demand and being kept busy composing perfumes at a range of price points. I’m not knowledgeable on the creation/production side of things but I’d assume that each company that requires a perfumer would have specific requirements including a brief about the fragrance, budget, timeline and so forth. This would direct the end result or the perfume composition. Hence there would be differences in each project but I would assume that skilled perfumers would bring out the best in each project they work on.
Anyway I’m starting to ramble a bit so I will wrap it up.
I visited a fragrance store in Vancouver BC recently and the proprietor said I really missed out on the original Frederic Malles because they were much better when they were first released. I think she was kind of judging me for saying that Portrait is my favorite fragrance since my bottle is from 4 years ago instead of an older formulation 
So, I’m wondering if anyone has predictions about which fragrances that are fairly new now (released in the last 5 years or so), that will become kind of iconic like Portrait in the future. I could sample them soon and buy any that I love while they’re still available in their original state, before reformulation.
My prediction: Radical Rose might become iconic.
Would love to hear anyone else’s predictions for fragrances that are new now but have potential to be icons in the future.
So, I’m wondering if anyone has predictions about which fragrances that are fairly new now (released in the last 5 years or so), that will become kind of iconic like Portrait in the future. I could sample them soon and buy any that I love while they’re still available in their original state, before reformulation.
My prediction: Radical Rose might become iconic.
Would love to hear anyone else’s predictions for fragrances that are new now but have potential to be icons in the future.
Unfortunately reformulations are a recurring reality in the perfume world but not all reformulations are drastic. Some are more subtle but even so, a perfume lover can sense even the slightest change and we don’t like it when our favorites are tweaked. I have heard that the original Malle fragrances were better but the bottles I have are more recent formulations (last 6 years or so) and I think they’re great. Since I never sampled the originals, I guess I don’t know what I am missing! But it doesn’t matter because I am enjoying what I have. What I’m trying to say in a rather long-winded way is that if you love your current bottle of POAL, then that’s all that matters. In fact you might even consider buying a backup of your current one if it’s a true love.I visited a fragrance store in Vancouver BC recently and the proprietor said I really missed out on the original Frederic Malles because they were much better when they were first released. I think she was kind of judging me for saying that Portrait is my favorite fragrance since my bottle is from 4 years ago instead of an older formulation
So, I’m wondering if anyone has predictions about which fragrances that are fairly new now (released in the last 5 years or so), that will become kind of iconic like Portrait in the future. I could sample them soon and buy any that I love while they’re still available in their original state, before reformulation.
My prediction: Radical Rose might become iconic.
Would love to hear anyone else’s predictions for fragrances that are new now but have potential to be icons in the future.
To be honest I have done my fair share of chasing down older formulations especially vintage Guerlain, Caron and Chanel perfumes and for the most part I don’t regret it. However I also want to share two examples of reformulations that I was fine with. The first was Serge Lutens Ambre Sultan. I got a bottle about a decade ago and found it too prominent on the bay leaf and basically felt it was too potent. I got rid of it but oddly enough I never quite forgot how it smelled. Over the years, as I sampled more ambers, I kept remembering Ambre Sultan and finally caved and got a sample.
By then there was talk of it being reformulated but I loved my sample and promptly ordered a new bottle. The differences were subtle: to my recollection, the older version was overall more dense and potent with the spices, especially the bay leaf being a little more pronounced. The newer version though is still rich and wonderful, a reference amber, and I am perfectly happy with it. I don’t wear it much but that’s because amber-centric fragrances are an occasional and not a frequent wear for me.
The other example is Must de Cartier. I purchased a EDT in a ribbed glass bottle with a built-in metal sprayer some years back and loved the opening with its wonderful galbanum. I read reviews and soon learned that this was a reformulation and the bottle to seek was one with a red built-in sprayer so off I went and was able to find one of the last few bottles online. Without a doubt, the older version is fantastic, deeper, more complex and possessing a rich long-lasting drydown as compared to the thinner newer version with its light and soft drydown. Nonetheless, I reach for my ribbed bottle more than I do the older one. Not sure why.
To be clear, the original versions of both these fragrances are the better versions: full of rich complexity and nuances. But the newer versions are also excellent and I am happy with them. We mostly hear about disappointing reformulations and they’re definitely more in the majority as I have myself often lamented, but I did want to share a few that were not so bad.
And as usual I have been too long-winded so I will wrap up.
Unfortunately I don’t have any predictions for you about recent releases that might become iconic. I have not been sampling new releases in an effort to try to not get distracted, and in order to focus on and enjoy my already large perfume collection.
Outside my window, I can see beautiful pink and white blossoms on the trees and daffodils are everywhere.
Spring is here…as evidenced by the soft shades of tender green leaves and pastel blossoms…and also by the row of small ants that I discovered marching near my kitchen window!
Anyway, what is everyone wearing this spring? Over the last couple of months I’ve been mostly focusing on a handful of bottles that are close to being finished. One of them is the lovely, incomparable L’Heure Bleue by Guerlain. Sadly my little umbrella bottle of vintage pure parfum which I purchased full and sealed was reduced to half due to evaporation! So I have been using up the remaining bit as part of my regular rotation and will continue to do so this month.
I found this evocative piece/advert on YouTube and will try to link or post it if I am able to figure out how to do it. (If anyone else knows how to do it, please do so.) It’s by Guerlain on YouTube about L’Heure Bleue Les Legendaires, and is short but beautifully done.
L’Heure Bleue- When the night is yet to find its star - referencing dusk, the blue hour before nightfall which was the inspiration for this legendary perfume. If I buy any perfume this year it will be the Les Legendaires bottle of L’Heure Bleue and also Apres L’Ondee.
Spring is here…as evidenced by the soft shades of tender green leaves and pastel blossoms…and also by the row of small ants that I discovered marching near my kitchen window!
Anyway, what is everyone wearing this spring? Over the last couple of months I’ve been mostly focusing on a handful of bottles that are close to being finished. One of them is the lovely, incomparable L’Heure Bleue by Guerlain. Sadly my little umbrella bottle of vintage pure parfum which I purchased full and sealed was reduced to half due to evaporation! So I have been using up the remaining bit as part of my regular rotation and will continue to do so this month.
I found this evocative piece/advert on YouTube and will try to link or post it if I am able to figure out how to do it. (If anyone else knows how to do it, please do so.) It’s by Guerlain on YouTube about L’Heure Bleue Les Legendaires, and is short but beautifully done.
L’Heure Bleue- When the night is yet to find its star - referencing dusk, the blue hour before nightfall which was the inspiration for this legendary perfume. If I buy any perfume this year it will be the Les Legendaires bottle of L’Heure Bleue and also Apres L’Ondee.
My favorite maison.
The history of SHALIMAR parfum speaks for itself from the very sensuous house of Guerlain
as well as the parfum Frederic Malle created for his wife Therese ( le Parfum de Therese)
& I'm sure that there are others as well that created scents for special women in their lives
My personal reviews on the following perfumes:
Parum de Marly Delina: original one, sharp floral smell, reminds me of the original Anais Anais but more abrupt -smelled matronly to me. SO didn’t like it.
BR 540-to me this smelled like sweet groin sweat-yes there. It’s not bad, it’s just odd on me,
Le Labo santal 33-waited to see my SO’s reaction, he immediately noted the sillage-strongest of all my perfumes, his words: what is that it smells so good, so I asked him what he smelled it and he said, ‘clean laundry’-I fainted with laughter. Mild amber and touch of woodsy and leather-made me think I got sick bc my throat was itchy, but then I wasn’t.
Can we talk dupes for my favorite: Coco Madmeoiselle: I was looking for something with longer lasting power, this does not last at all…on me
Dossier-oak moss-pretty darn close, a lot of orange, lemon, musk patchouli… shocked at the similarity, not as sweet and sillage about the same.
Amarif club de nuit-beautiful large bottle, and similar scent, not as close as Dossier, I don’t even think it was meant as a dupe, was it? It’s lovely similar and less sweet, less zesty and most unisex of the three.
Parum de Marly Delina: original one, sharp floral smell, reminds me of the original Anais Anais but more abrupt -smelled matronly to me. SO didn’t like it.
BR 540-to me this smelled like sweet groin sweat-yes there. It’s not bad, it’s just odd on me,
Le Labo santal 33-waited to see my SO’s reaction, he immediately noted the sillage-strongest of all my perfumes, his words: what is that it smells so good, so I asked him what he smelled it and he said, ‘clean laundry’-I fainted with laughter. Mild amber and touch of woodsy and leather-made me think I got sick bc my throat was itchy, but then I wasn’t.
Can we talk dupes for my favorite: Coco Madmeoiselle: I was looking for something with longer lasting power, this does not last at all…on me
Dossier-oak moss-pretty darn close, a lot of orange, lemon, musk patchouli… shocked at the similarity, not as sweet and sillage about the same.
Amarif club de nuit-beautiful large bottle, and similar scent, not as close as Dossier, I don’t even think it was meant as a dupe, was it? It’s lovely similar and less sweet, less zesty and most unisex of the three.
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Please don't stone me - I'm a Fragonard and classic Lanvin and Guerlain lover, but I've just found a shop in Brussels that has Arabian frag brands (Lattafa, Paris Corner, Alhambra, etc), and, although the bottle design ranges from kitschy to downright outrageously camp-retro, the range is bewildering, and the prices are around 25 to 55 Euro for 100 ml (most of them come only in 100 ml). So I fell down the rabbit hole (female or unisex frags), especially in the gourmand section, and bagged Voux Zeste (blood orange-lavender-jasmine-vanilla-caramel) and December Vanilla (rum-amber-sandalwood-agarwood-vanilla orchid) from Paris Corner, and Eclaire (caramel-lactonic-white flowers-praline) and Yara Tous (passionfruit-mango-heliotrope-jasmine-musk). They're not too intense, with moderate sillage, they do develop through the hours (and it's better to spray a few times outside and then let the bottle mature a few weeks or months for the ingredients to "settle"), and they are often very similar to other, more known and commercial fragrances.
Anyone else has tried them?
Anyone else has tried them?
I have not tried these but your descriptions make me want to!
I bought a Le Labo fragrance sampler of all of their line, including 2 extras that aren't in the sample set yet. I don't love any of them and actually hate several. Does anyone know if this line benefits with age? I don't know if I should keep it for awhile and try them again later, or if I should pass the set along to someone else who might like them better than I do.
To those of you who remember the old Shalimar, in the 70's/80's , do you think it's still the same or has it changed? I used to wear it back then but haven't used it anymore for decades: I tried it on yesterday and found it very different, after quite a while I started recognizing the smell I remembered, but not straight away.....
I haven’t tried the current, most recent version of Shalimar, but I have several versions including very vintage eau de cologne, vintage pure parfum, Parfum de toilette (this is eau de parfum, possibly 80s or early 90s, can’t recall exactly), and eau de toilette. My most recent version is also at least about 7 years old. While they’re all still distinctly recognizable as Shalimar, there are nonetheless some differences between these versions, depending on concentration (EDP, EDT, cologne or parfum), age, and bottle style.
But despite these differences, each version is definitely recognizable as Shalimar.
It wouldn’t surprise me to hear that the current version available in stores smells slightly different from older versions from the 70s/80s. However, I wouldn’t expect it to smell significantly different since Guerlain has generally done a good job of maintaining their legendary perfumes. I would expect it to still smell like Shalimar.
I am however curious to try the latest version after reading your post. Do you recall if you tried the EDP or EDT? Also, one thing to keep in mind is that in recent years, Guerlain has released several flanker style versions of Shalimar- there’s a jasmine iteration, and also tonka and vanilla ones and these versions each emphasize certain notes. They all come in the classic Shalimar bottle. Just thought I’d mention that in case you come across them in the store. I have not tried any of these Shalimar Millesime iterations but they seem to sell out quickly.
I will make a trip to the Guerlain counter sometime and sniff and compare with my older bottles. Will post an update when I do so.