Perfume Chat Thread

[duna]

I haven’t tried the current, most recent version of Shalimar, but I have several versions including very vintage eau de cologne, vintage pure parfum, Parfum de toilette (this is eau de parfum, possibly 80s or early 90s, can’t recall exactly), and eau de toilette. My most recent version is also at least about 7 years old. While they’re all still distinctly recognizable as Shalimar, there are nonetheless some differences between these versions, depending on concentration (EDP, EDT, cologne or parfum), age, and bottle style.
But despite these differences, each version is definitely recognizable as Shalimar.

It wouldn’t surprise me to hear that the current version available in stores smells slightly different from older versions from the 70s/80s. However, I wouldn’t expect it to smell significantly different since Guerlain has generally done a good job of maintaining their legendary perfumes. I would expect it to still smell like Shalimar.

I am however curious to try the latest version after reading your post. Do you recall if you tried the EDP or EDT? Also, one thing to keep in mind is that in recent years, Guerlain has released several flanker style versions of Shalimar- there’s a jasmine iteration, and also tonka and vanilla ones and these versions each emphasize certain notes. They all come in the classic Shalimar bottle. Just thought I’d mention that in case you come across them in the store. I have not tried any of these Shalimar Millesime iterations but they seem to sell out quickly.

I will make a trip to the Guerlain counter sometime and sniff and compare with my older bottles. Will post an update when I do so.

I tried the EDT: it definately smells like the old Shalimar, but not right from the start....It could also be that I haven't smelled it in a very long time and my memory isn't very good these days!

 

[duna]

Unfortunately reformulations are a recurring reality in the perfume world but not all reformulations are drastic. Some are more subtle but even so, a perfume lover can sense even the slightest change and we don’t like it when our favorites are tweaked. I have heard that the original Malle fragrances were better but the bottles I have are more recent formulations (last 6 years or so) and I think they’re great. Since I never sampled the originals, I guess I don’t know what I am missing! But it doesn’t matter because I am enjoying what I have. What I’m trying to say in a rather long-winded way is that if you love your current bottle of POAL, then that’s all that matters. In fact you might even consider buying a backup of your current one if it’s a true love.

To be honest I have done my fair share of chasing down older formulations especially vintage Guerlain, Caron and Chanel perfumes and for the most part I don’t regret it. However I also want to share two examples of reformulations that I was fine with. The first was Serge Lutens Ambre Sultan. I got a bottle about a decade ago and found it too prominent on the bay leaf and basically felt it was too potent. I got rid of it but oddly enough I never quite forgot how it smelled. Over the years, as I sampled more ambers, I kept remembering Ambre Sultan and finally caved and got a sample.

By then there was talk of it being reformulated but I loved my sample and promptly ordered a new bottle. The differences were subtle: to my recollection, the older version was overall more dense and potent with the spices, especially the bay leaf being a little more pronounced. The newer version though is still rich and wonderful, a reference amber, and I am perfectly happy with it. I don’t wear it much but that’s because amber-centric fragrances are an occasional and not a frequent wear for me.

The other example is Must de Cartier. I purchased a EDT in a ribbed glass bottle with a built-in metal sprayer some years back and loved the opening with its wonderful galbanum. I read reviews and soon learned that this was a reformulation and the bottle to seek was one with a red built-in sprayer so off I went and was able to find one of the last few bottles online. Without a doubt, the older version is fantastic, deeper, more complex and possessing a rich long-lasting drydown as compared to the thinner newer version with its light and soft drydown. Nonetheless, I reach for my ribbed bottle more than I do the older one. Not sure why.

To be clear, the original versions of both these fragrances are the better versions: full of rich complexity and nuances. But the newer versions are also excellent and I am happy with them. We mostly hear about disappointing reformulations and they’re definitely more in the majority as I have myself often lamented, but I did want to share a few that were not so bad.
And as usual I have been too long-winded so I will wrap up.

Unfortunately I don’t have any predictions for you about recent releases that might become iconic. I have not been sampling new releases in an effort to try to not get distracted, and in order to focus on and enjoy my already large perfume collection.

Ahhh, Must de Cartier I smelled it on a friend in the early 90's and had to have it....it became my signature scent for a decade! I had the EdP (black ribbed glass bottle) not the EdT, which I found totally different. I recently serched for it as I wanted to buy it again after so long but I was told that it's not in production anymore

 

[Purses & Perfumes]

Ahhh, Must de Cartier I smelled it on a friend in the early 90's and had to have it....it became my signature scent for a decade! I had the EdP (black ribbed glass bottle) not the EdT, which I found totally different. I recently serched for it as I wanted to buy it again after so long but I was told that it's not in production anymore

Oh, it’s too bad that the EDP is discontinued. The parfum spray is still available - perhaps sample when possible and see if you like it. I’m tempted by it but really shouldn’t be adding anything to my collection until I finish a few bottles.

 

[Purses & Perfumes]

I bought a Le Labo fragrance sampler of all of their line, including 2 extras that aren't in the sample set yet. I don't love any of them and actually hate several. Does anyone know if this line benefits with age? I don't know if I should keep it for awhile and try them again later, or if I should pass the set along to someone else who might like them better than I do.

Le Labo is a house I am not familiar with but it’s possible that your own perceptions of their perfumes might evolve and change over time as you sniff different fragrances. Sometimes, tastes do change over time, and after sampling several different perfumes. However, I don’t know if you want to store the set with that eventuality in mind. You could keep it for a few months and try them again at the end of summer. If you still feel that none of them work for you, then pass the set along to someone else.

 

[Swanky]

I don’t find their fragrances to change with age really. I’d pass it on!

 

[livethelake]

To those of you who remember the old Shalimar, in the 70's/80's , do you think it's still the same or has it changed? I used to wear it back then but haven't used it anymore for decades: I tried it on yesterday and found it very different, after quite a while I started recognizing the smell I remembered, but not straight away.....

@duna - Shalimar was my ride and die, I wore it exclusively and it was so well known in my family, I was gifted bottles of it for every occasion. I used my last bottle a few years ago. That Christmas, I received a bottle from Neiman Marcus. I was so disappointed when I tried it, the scent smelled nothing like Shalimar.

Can anyone recommend a replacement for me? Or any sellers who might have old stock of the 70's formulation? I'm in perfume paralysis right now

 

[duna]

@duna - Shalimar was my ride and die, I wore it exclusively and it was so well known in my family, I was gifted bottles of it for every occasion. I used my last bottle a few years ago. That Christmas, I received a bottle from Neiman Marcus. I was so disappointed when I tried it, the scent smelled nothing like Shalimar.

Can anyone recommend a replacement for me? Or any sellers who might have old stock of the 70's formulation? I'm in perfume paralysis right now

I know what you mean I'm afraid I'm no perfume expert so I've no idea if there's a valid replacement....I ended up buying Shalimar EDT in the end, I was so nostalgic that I decided I didn't mind if it was a bit different. I do smell the old Shalimar once it's dries down.

 

[livethelake]

I know what you mean I'm afraid I'm no perfume expert so I've no idea if there's a valid replacement....I ended up buying Shalimar EDT in the end, I was so nostalgic that I decided I didn't mind if it was a bit different. I do smell the old Shalimar once it's dries down.

I returned mine. It smelled so different from the original Maybe I need to give it another try

 

[ultravisitor]

I bought a Le Labo fragrance sampler of all of their line, including 2 extras that aren't in the sample set yet. I don't love any of them and actually hate several. Does anyone know if this line benefits with age? I don't know if I should keep it for awhile and try them again later, or if I should pass the set along to someone else who might like them better than I do.

Le Labo is a house that I initially did not like, but one of my absolute favorites now is a Le Labo. Their style took me a while to come around to and appreciate. I really disliked them for a long time, but then one day one of them just clicked with me. That perfume was Patchouli 24. As turns out, it was created by Annick Menardo, who also created another favorite of mine: Christian Dior Bois d'Argent. She has a style that I just love.

Anyway, I have found that with a lot of time and experience in the hobby my tastes have grown, and I've learned to understand and appreciate things that I thought I had already made up my mind about. So I almost never write off any house or perfume entirely.

I wouldn't expect the samples to change. I'd consider the idea, though, that although you may not like them now, it is entirely possible that you will love some of them later after you have experienced more.

 

[Purses & Perfumes]

Can anyone recommend a replacement for me? Or any sellers who might have old stock of the 70's formulation? I'm in perfume paralysis right now

Regarding replacements for Shalimar, there are a few perfumes with a similar vibe (like Fragonard’s Reve Indien) but you might be better off looking for an older formulation bottle of Shalimar on ebay or a similar place. Last time I checked on ebay there was still a fair amount of Shalimar available in a few different older bottle styles like the bat-wing bottle.
If you go this route make sure you read seller feedback carefully and look for sellers who have been selling for a while. I have bought vintage perfume there a few years ago and carefully researched the sellers. I also always preferred sealed bottles of pure parfum and fragrances that came with their boxes.

 

[livethelake]

Regarding replacements for Shalimar, there are a few perfumes with a similar vibe (like Fragonard’s Reve Indien) but you might be better off looking for an older formulation bottle of Shalimar on ebay or a similar place. Last time I checked on ebay there was still a fair amount of Shalimar available in a few different older bottle styles like the bat-wing bottle.
If you go this route make sure you read seller feedback carefully and look for sellers who have been selling for a while. I have bought vintage perfume there a few years ago and carefully researched the sellers. I also always preferred sealed bottles of pure parfum and fragrances that came with their boxes.

Thanks for your input. I agree, I think my best option is to buy old stock on ebay. I looked quickly, seems like I will have several options. Now I need to do my research and hopefully be successful

 

[Purses & Perfumes]

Thanks for your input. I agree, I think my best option is to buy old stock on ebay. I looked quickly, seems like I will have several options. Now I need to do my research and hopefully be successful

Good luck! I forgot to mention that one of the challenges of buying vintage perfume is not knowing how the seller has stored the perfume. Ideally the bottles should be stored away from heat and light to maintain optimal scent quality. In general I have been lucky in my purchases (over 30 bottles!) but I have received one or two bottles where the scent had gone slightly off (Balmain perfume) but for the most part, I have had good bottles. But it’s something to keep in mind, and an inherent risk when buying older bottles.

That said, I think Shalimar tends to maintain its quality better than most. I have some really old bottles of Shalimar and they’re still excellent.

 

[KoostBoost]

Hi everyone, I have been reading through this entire thread today in between chores and what an absolute joy it has been!

It's interesting to learn about people's experiences of fragrances, different houses, noses, notes, loves etc. I've added quite a few to my ever-growing list of scents to try.

I'm still very inexperienced when it comes to perfume but the journey of learning about what I like, what works on me, what doesn't work on me and what to avoid has been so much fun. I'd much rather work my way through a fragrance discovery set than an indulgent box of chocolates!

I wore Dior Addict, Nina by Nina Ricci and Cacharel's Amor Amor in my youth but then fragrance dropped off my radar for many years, until very recently.

Hoping it's ok to share my experiences here too.

I've fallen victim to marketing and hype and blind-buys in the past. Luckily nothing that's left me hugely out of pocket, just disappointment. But, it has been a valuable lesson and one I'm (hopefully) less likely to make again.

Currently anything with notes of tea, ginger (loving 100bon's Eau de Thé et Gingembre) or rhubarb (Miller Harris – Lost in the City and Hermès - Rhubarbe Ecarlate are amazing both alone and layered together!)

Other notes that can tempt me are cassis, blackcurrant buds, magnolia, sandalwood, patchouli and incense, to list a few.

Notes I struggle with the most are anything smokey/tobacco related as even if they are beautifully blended, they can induce headaches. Leather is hit or miss for me as is tuberose but I love Narcisse Taiji by Atelier Materi which has both notes listed, and is an example of why I may tread with caution but never fully discount a fragrance with my 'struggle' notes in!

I love the Jardin range from Hermès, and quite a few of the fragrances by Frassai. If it smells like a garden/the outdoors without being too heavy on the florals, I'm tempted.

That being said, my most complemented fragrance is Dior's Vanilla Diorama, it is not my all-time favourite scent but it is comforting and easy to wear, especially in colder weather.

There are some 'masculine' scents I love wearing too, and my most recent full-bottle purchase is Guerlain's L'instant Homme EDT. I find it to be so calming. I need to explore more of this house, and have been enjoying a sample of the recent version of Mitsouko EDP.
I've also been playing around with a sample of the original Dior Homme and I wish I'd tried it sooner.

Apologies for the info-dump but reading through this thread has gotten my brain firing in all directions and has given me lots of inspiration!

Happy sniffing, everyone!

 

[livethelake]

Good luck! I forgot to mention that one of the challenges of buying vintage perfume is not knowing how the seller has stored the perfume. Ideally the bottles should be stored away from heat and light to maintain optimal scent quality. In general I have been lucky in my purchases (over 30 bottles!) but I have received one or two bottles where the scent had gone slightly off (Balmain perfume) but for the most part, I have had good bottles. But it’s something to keep in mind, and an inherent risk when buying older bottles.

That said, I think Shalimar tends to maintain its quality better than most. I have some really old bottles of Shalimar and they’re still excellent.

Thanks again I'm a bit overwhelmed right now (if you see any shalimar listings that look exceptionally good to you, let me know LOL)

 

[Purses & Perfumes]

Thanks again I'm a bit overwhelmed right now (if you see any shalimar listings that look exceptionally good to you, let me know LOL)

Yes, it can be overwhelming! Do you recall the style of bottle that you used to have? That can help narrow down the quest as you can try to find a similar bottle style. I have two different EDT bottle styles: a 3.1 oz tall bottle in a gold metal case with round top, and a bat wing bottle in a blue box. I am wearing the one from the older tall refill bottle today and it’s very nice. I spent a fair amount of time a couple years ago researching bottle and box styles on the website Raiders of the Lost Scent which helped me identify the dates of several vintage bottles prior to purchasing them.

Since there’s a decent amount of choice when it comes to vintage Shalimar, don’t feel like you have to rush into a purchase. Take your time and decide. I will see if any of the sellers I bought from have any older bottles of Shalimar and will PM you if I find anything from those sellers. Of course that does not provide any assurance that the bottle they have is excellent. Each bottle is different and buying older bottles is a bit of a gamble, but at least it gives you something to consider.

You could also take a chance on a spray bottle without a box from a good seller if it’s reasonably priced as Shalimar really does hold up quite well, especially in my experience. While I did purchase from some bigger perfume sellers, a majority of my vintage purchases were from smaller sellers, especially regular folks who were downsizing their collections or moving.