Batwing bottles with ribbing and the blue cap. I also had a blue and white metal cylinder that held a refill bottle at one point. I wish I paid more attention to the bottles thru the years but I never expected the formula to change so dramatically.
Perfume Chat Thread
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Turns out there was one sample I hadn't tried yet because it was new and not in the sample box, Ambrette 9. I had to buy the sample bottle separately. Found it a few days ago and really liked it. It has a clean, unisex smell that is very nice and very appropriate for warm weather.
It's a rare Lutens, perhaps because of all the expensive ingredients. I had to stalk the website off and on before I could get my hands on it! I love it, it's truly a fragrant, silvery, crystalline iris fragrance. I haven't used it enough (blaming that on a large collection with too many choices) to discover all the facets of the fragrance, and interestingly enough, I've had slightly different experiences both times I've worn it.
In more wintry weather a few months ago, the cool quality of ISM was more prominent to me, not too floral, and imparting a cool, aware, pleasant state of tranquility. Today, I tried it on and in this hot weather, I could distinctly smell other notes as it developed: slightly aromatic (clove?) more floral, a hint of incense, maybe some resins and a trace of silky woodiness in the base, all coming together with the star - the iris - to form a lovely, fragrant composition. No doubt the next time I use it, I will discover other nuances I had not noticed before. Perhaps that is the quality of a great, iconic fragrance like this.
I should also mention that the amount I used may have played a part in my scent experience. Thanks to the bell jar, the quantity of perfume dispensed varies! The first time, I just got a light dab. Today, I tipped out more and got a larger amount. Yes, I know I need to order some travel sprays and stop trying to tip a small quantity out on my wrist. I probably applied too much today! So there are my thoughts on ISM.
Sounds like you've sampled a fair number of Serge Lutens perfumes. Which ones stood out to you?
Oh, and I moved this response to the Perfume Chat thread.
What a glorious experience you've had already from only a couple of tries! It sounds like such a layered and interesting scent!It's a rare Lutens, perhaps because of all the expensive ingredients. I had to stalk the website off and on before I could get my hands on it! I love it, it's truly a fragrant, silvery, crystalline iris fragrance. I haven't used it enough (blaming that on a large collection with too many choices) to discover all the facets of the fragrance, and interestingly enough, I've had slightly different experiences both times I've worn it.
In more wintry weather a few months ago, the cool quality of ISM was more prominent to me, not too floral, and imparting a cool, aware, pleasant state of tranquility. Today, I tried it on and in this hot weather, I could distinctly smell other notes as it developed: slightly aromatic (clove?) more floral, a hint of incense, maybe some resins and a trace of silky woodiness in the base, all coming together with the star - the iris - to form a lovely, fragrant composition. No doubt the next time I use it, I will discover other nuances I had not noticed before. Perhaps that is the quality of a great, iconic fragrance like this.
I should also mention that the amount I used may have played a part in my scent experience. Thanks to the bell jar, the quantity of perfume dispensed varies! The first time, I just got a light dab. Today, I tipped out more and got a larger amount. Yes, I know I need to order some travel sprays and stop trying to tip a small quantity out on my wrist. I probably applied too much today! So there are my thoughts on ISM.
Sounds like you've sampled a fair number of Serge Lutens perfumes. Which ones stood out to you?
Oh, and I moved this response to the Perfume Chat thread.
I find their offerings really...artistic. I'm not sure I'd want to smell like any of their scents, but I can say that each one develops in a really evocative and fascinating way. For example, Un Bois Vanille has a waxy note that is remarkably accurate! It smells exactly like a vanilla candle in the most intentional way. I wouldn't want that on me, but it's so much fun to see how that wax note unfurls an hour into wearing it.
I think the most wearable one I've tried is 5 o'Clock au Gingembre, which is a very spicy scent. I could pick out ginger, cinnamon and even cloves, but the surprising thing was that I could smell a very realistic honey note, too.
I think each one of their scents would be a slightly different with each use, as you discovered with ISM. It feels like that's the intention in their composition. Fun house!
Thank you for sharing your experience with ISM.
Interestingly, I have never tried Five 0'Clock au Gingembre but have always been curious about it. Some of their perfumes do have unexpected twists and turns as the composition develops. I am really quite fond of this house though, and should perhaps devote a week to wearing just Serge Lutens fragrances soon.What a glorious experience you've had already from only a couple of tries! It sounds like such a layered and interesting scent!
I find their offerings really...artistic. I'm not sure I'd want to smell like any of their scents, but I can say that each one develops in a really evocative and fascinating way. For example, Un Bois Vanille has a waxy note that is remarkably accurate! It smells exactly like a vanilla candle in the most intentional way. I wouldn't want that on me, but it's so much fun to see how that wax note unfurls an hour into wearing it.
I think the most wearable one I've tried is 5 o'Clock au Gingembre, which is a very spicy scent. I could pick out ginger, cinnamon and even cloves, but the surprising thing was that I could smell a very realistic honey note, too.
I think each one of their scents would be a slightly different with each use, as you discovered with ISM. It feels like that's the intention in their composition. Fun house!
Thank you for sharing your experience with ISM.
I think I will wear Un Lys tomorrow: it is such a pretty floral!
I used to wear a lot of serge lutens, but moved away from the line except for ISM and a precursor to SL. feminitie du bois bysheseido . ISL is not at all gourmand. It smells fresh, vegetal, roots, earthy. Iris, orris, violet tinged carrot. ISM was formulated by Maurice Roucel who also did the very very different Frederic Malle Musc Ravageur. FdB was formulated by Pierre Bourdon and Christopher Sheldrake some years before Serge Lutens opened his company. At the time of FdB, I believe SL was still working for Sheseido. And, when he started SL, Christopher sheldrake collaborated with the entire line up of fragrance except ISM.What a glorious experience you've had already from only a couple of tries! It sounds like such a layered and interesting scent!
I find their offerings really...artistic. I'm not sure I'd want to smell like any of their scents, but I can say that each one develops in a really evocative and fascinating way. For example, Un Bois Vanille has a waxy note that is remarkably accurate! It smells exactly like a vanilla candle in the most intentional way. I wouldn't want that on me, but it's so much fun to see how that wax note unfurls an hour into wearing it.
I think the most wearable one I've tried is 5 o'Clock au Gingembre, which is a very spicy scent. I could pick out ginger, cinnamon and even cloves, but the surprising thing was that I could smell a very realistic honey note, too.
I think each one of their scents would be a slightly different with each use, as you discovered with ISM. It feels like that's the intention in their composition. Fun house!
Thank you for sharing your experience with ISM.
On line sources seem to recommend Chanel le Pausa or a Prada iris scent (I have not tried either). I don’t think FM Iris Poudre is lol that similar bc FM is powdery. ISM gives the sensation of moist earth. There should be decants available for sale.
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Regarding Feminite du Bois, how do you find the current version to be versus the one by Shiseido? Would you recommend trying out the current version?
I agree that Iris Poudre is not similar to ISM: there's the aldehyde in the opening of Iris Poudre for one thing, and yes, it dries down powdery. Overall Iris Poudre feels more "perfumy" than some of the other iris fragrances (I still like it a lot).
I tested La Pausa a while back and found it to be very good: earthy iris. It's interesting to me how iris was a note I grew to enjoy gradually over time: it was not an immediate love for me, and I still recall my first trial of Prada's Infusion d'Iris years ago, which did not really go so well... and now I own a bottle!
I haven’t tried the SL FdB. I do have some other bois versions and they tend to bring out sweet, fruity notes when I wear them. If you can buy decants from a reputable source (Surrender to Chance used to be good), I would recommend the older ones.Regarding Feminite du Bois, how do you find the current version to be versus the one by Shiseido? Would you recommend trying out the current version?
I agree that Iris Poudre is not similar to ISM: there's the aldehyde in the opening of Iris Poudre for one thing, and yes, it dries down powdery. Overall Iris Poudre feels more "perfumy" than some of the other iris fragrances (I still like it a lot).
I tested La Pausa a while back and found it to be very good: earthy iris. It's interesting to me how iris was a note I grew to enjoy gradually over time: it was not an immediate love for me, and I still recall my first trial of Prada's Infusion d'Iris years ago, which did not really go so well... and now I own a bottle!
Boxeuses might be a better bet for a more modern segue from the original FdB. Also by Sheldrake, but much later, like 2010
I've been hanging out in Paris for the past few weeks, and I'll be here through the end of the month. Turns out Bertrand Duchaufour released a new line called L'Entropiste earlier this year, and it's not available in the States. I swung by the boutique the other day and picked up a sample set. So far, I've really been enjoying the line. I might need to pick up a full size bottle of one of them as a memento of this trip before I head back to the States.
Oh that’s very interesting!
I’ll go to the website and look at this brand. Let us know which one are you favourites from the sample set!
Anyone have any experience with Fredric Malle perfumes? if so, how do you like them and how do they wear?
I'm a fan of Frederic Malle perfumes including Portrait of a Lady, Carnal Flower & Le Parfum de Therese
They wear well on me & actually Portrait of a Lady is one of my favorites & do use the shower gel
( like layering bath & fragrance together) JMO
You've convinced me - ordering a decant to try. I didn't even realize they had shower gel!
Love Frederic Malle perfumes, but weirdly I love smelling them but not wearing them. My favourite is Carnal Flower a beautiful tuberose ❤️ I appreciate it a lot but sadly it doesn’t suit my skin…
I really didn't like any of their perfumes at first, but after I experienced a lot more (both Frederic Malle and perfumes in general) I really came around on it. Now it's one of my favorite houses, and I own a good number of them.