Perfume Chat Thread

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Trying to find a perfume that lasts as long as my Opium. It seems to last FOREVER which I love! My only request is no patchouli. I would love to get any recommendations, any scent profile! Thanks :smile:
Louis Vuitton Ombre Nomade. I can wear it, and then weeks later I will wash the shirt I was wearing and I will literally STILL smell it strongly on the shirt after I take it out of the washer and dryer.

The reason a lot of "oud" fragrances you'll find at high-end department stores seem to last forever is because they don't actually use any real oud in them. Most of the time, the "oud" is some sort of accord created to approximate the scent of real oud, and it's almost always synthetic (and harsh). Even Louis Vuitton, who does use real oud (they apparently bought a farm or plantation or whatever it's called in Bangladesh in order to secure it), adulterates their oud with synthetics. Real oud simply does not smell the same as the "oud" in that you'll find in the vast majority of fragrances, and while strong and longer lasting, it's usually a much more nuanced experienced than the blaring foghorn fragrances of nuclear longevity that rely on a lot of synthetics. For fragrances that feature real oud, you'll have to go to houses like Fragrance du Bois, Bortnikoff, or Strangelove NYC (to name a few). All of those houses have several fantastic fragrances that use real oud. I especially love deadofnight from Strangelove NYC.

I'm not sure if Christian Dior uses real oud or not. It's likely an accord or some sort of synthetic, but whatever it is, the fragrance is blended so well that the overall experience still feels much more refined than can be found in another fragrances that rely on oud accords and/or synthetics. From Christian Dior, I'd check out Oud Ispahan or Oud Rosewood.
 
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Louis Vuitton Ombre Nomade. I can wear it, and then weeks later I will wash the shirt I was wearing and I will literally STILL smell it strongly on the shirt after I take it out of the washer and dryer.

The reason a lot of "oud" fragrances you'll find at high-end department stores seem to last forever is because they don't actually use any real oud in them. Most of the time, the "oud" is some sort of accord created to approximate the scent of real oud, and it's almost always synthetic (and harsh). Even Louis Vuitton, who does use real oud (they apparently bought a farm or plantation or whatever it's called in Bangladesh in order to secure it), adulterates their oud with synthetics. Real oud simply does not smell the same as the "oud" in that you'll find in the vast majority of fragrances, and while strong and longer lasting, it's usually a much more nuanced experienced than the blaring foghorn fragrances of nuclear longevity that rely on a lot of synthetics. For fragrances that feature real oud, you'll have to go to houses like Fragrance du Bois, Bortnikoff, or Strangelove NYC (to name a few). All of those houses have several fantastic fragrances that use real oud. I especially love deadofnight from Strangelove NYC.

I'm not sure if Christian Dior uses real oud or not. It's likely an accord or some sort of synthetic, but whatever it is, the fragrance is blended so well that the overall experience still feels much more refined than can be found in another fragrances that rely on oud accords and/or synthetics. From Christian Dior, I'd check out Oud Ispahan or Oud Rosewood.
Thank you so much! I am going to look online and research these! I am curious as to what oud smells like on its own. Does anyone know? I am fragrance illiterate I am afraid to say.
 
Thank you so much! I am going to look online and research these! I am curious as to what oud smells like on its own. Does anyone know? I am fragrance illiterate I am afraid to say.
Oud (agarwood) is the rotten part of a tree after a fungus has infected it. It’s been described as fecal, barnlike, and animalic. However, when used in perfumery it provides depth and a woody aroma that gives a perfume character and longevity. It’s very strange, but Oud is one of the most expensive ingredients in perfumery and has been problematic in some countries due to unlawful harvesting. Many of the Western perfumers have made it more palatable for Western tastes, but it is a staple in Middle Eastern and Asian perfumes.
 
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Oud (agarwood) is the rotten part of a tree after a fungus has infected it. It’s been described as fecal, barnlike, and animalic. However, when used in perfumery it provides depth and a woody aroma that gives a perfume character and longevity. It’s very strange, but Oud is one of the most expensive ingredients in perfumery and has been problematic in some countries due to unlawful harvesting. Many of the Western perfumers have made it more palatable for Western tastes, but it is a staple in Middle Eastern and Asian perfumes.
Fascinating. I love learning more, thank you so much!
 
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Fascinating. I love learning more, thank you so much!
I went down the rabbit hole of perfumes and perfumery and I watched so many videos! In person I tried a perfume that smelled more authentically like Oud, and I was shocked how fecal it smelled—even my kids (embarrassingly) yelled out that it smelled like poop! But surprisingly I like most perfumes with Oud in them.
 
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I am curious as to what oud smells like on its own. Does anyone know? I am fragrance illiterate I am afraid to say.
That's tricky because it's never quite the same and depends on a lot of different factors.

For instance, the fungus can infect two different trees of the same species, but the oud from each tree resulting from that can smell different.

The smell will also depend on location, and each different country's oud is known to have different characteristics. Some also say some countries' ouds are better than others.

The fragrance of oud chips, which some people burn, is also different from oud oil.

There's also the issue that a perfume might highlight different aspects of oud. One perfume might feature oud, but it does so in a way that it's presenting it in the way it smells when someone is burning oud chips, whereas another perfume might highlight the more floral aspects of an oud and another perfume might highlight the more animalic aspects of oud.
 
I keep thinking about Bond No 9’s Tribeca. It’s something I’ve tested a couple of times at the counter but I’m so annoyed I can’t just buy a sample on their website. It’s not cheap so I need to be sure. But on cold, rainy days like today I feel like I need something like that. People also rave about Gris Charnel being a good rainy day scent, but I have yet to properly sample it. Would love any feedback on either of those.
I haven't sampled Gris Charnel but I have sampled Pas ce soir and Rouge smoking from BDK. They were incredibly smooth, very elegant blends. I imagine everything from that house will be great and I intend to test out more of their fragrances soon.
Bond no. 9 is available near me but I won't sample from them, so I can't give you a comparison. BDK is much cheaper, though!
I just checked and Decantx has both fragrances available (at various sample sizes). It's probably worth ordering samples from there to compare them, and to make sure you fully enjoy the scents before paying so much for a bottle. :flowers:
 
I keep thinking about Bond No 9’s Tribeca. It’s something I’ve tested a couple of times at the counter but I’m so annoyed I can’t just buy a sample on their website. It’s not cheap so I need to be sure.
Bond No. 9, like Parfums de Marly/Initio (both the same company), is another house that is considered by many to be a high-end clone house. Never pay retail for it because authentic bottles can be easily found at significantly lower prices through discounters. Seriously. Retail price for 100ml of TriBeCa is $460, but that same size bottle can be easily found for less than $300--some places have it for lower than $250--which is lower than the retail price for the 50ml bottle ($320).

If you're seriously considering spending that much on a bottle of perfume--not a problem, as I do it all the time--then I would at least spend it on something that can't be found elsewhere for so much less.
 
Bond No. 9, like Parfums de Marly/Initio (both the same company), is another house that is considered by many to be a high-end clone house. Never pay retail for it because authentic bottles can be easily found at significantly lower prices through discounters. Seriously. Retail price for 100ml of TriBeCa is $460, but that same size bottle can be easily found for less than $300--some places have it for lower than $250--which is lower than the retail price for the 50ml bottle ($320).

If you're seriously considering spending that much on a bottle of perfume--not a problem, as I do it all the time--then I would at least spend it on something that can't be found elsewhere for so much less.
Which discount site(s) do you recommend? I was just planning on waiting for the next 15% off deal at SAKS and hoping to also get something back through Rakuten. I almost pulled the trigger during Black Friday but then I was still making up my mind about it. Also, I would get the smaller size bottle as I don’t need 100 ml of it.
 
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That's tricky because it's never quite the same and depends on a lot of different factors.

For instance, the fungus can infect two different trees of the same species, but the oud from each tree resulting from that can smell different.

The smell will also depend on location, and each different country's oud is known to have different characteristics. Some also say some countries' ouds are better than others.

The fragrance of oud chips, which some people burn, is also different from oud oil.

There's also the issue that a perfume might highlight different aspects of oud. One perfume might feature oud, but it does so in a way that it's presenting it in the way it smells when someone is burning oud chips, whereas another perfume might highlight the more floral aspects of an oud and another perfume might highlight the more animalic aspects of oud.
So fascinating. Fragrances are so intriguing! Thank you so much for this insight, I appreciate it!
 
Which discount site(s) do you recommend? I was just planning on waiting for the next 15% off deal at SAKS and hoping to also get something back through Rakuten. I almost pulled the trigger during Black Friday but then I was still making up my mind about it. Also, I would get the smaller size bottle as I don’t need 100 ml of it.
Whichever one has it for the cheapest. Fragrancebuy.ca, FragranceNet, FragranceX, MaxAroma...Those are just a few that often have those super overpriced and heavily synthetic brands that you'll find at stores like Saks, such as Bond No. 9, Parfums de Marly, and MFK. Some of them even have Clive Christian. I'll go to places like that for the mainstream designer-level perfumes that'll cost me less than $100, like Guerlain Habit Rouge or Dior Fahrenheit. The Guerlains especially can be found for a steal. If I'm spending a more serious amount of money on a perfume, then I'll spend that money on something more exclusive that can't be found at a discounter.
 
I haven't sampled Gris Charnel but I have sampled Pas ce soir and Rouge smoking from BDK. They were incredibly smooth, very elegant blends. I imagine everything from that house will be great and I intend to test out more of their fragrances soon.
Bond no. 9 is available near me but I won't sample from them, so I can't give you a comparison. BDK is much cheaper, though!
I just checked and Decantx has both fragrances available (at various sample sizes). It's probably worth ordering samples from there to compare them, and to make sure you fully enjoy the scents before paying so much for a bottle. :flowers:
Thanks for the recommendation. I’ll check out Decantx!
 
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Whichever one has it for the cheapest. Fragrancebuy.ca, FragranceNet, FragranceX, MaxAroma...Those are just a few that often have those super overpriced and heavily synthetic brands that you'll find at stores like Saks, such as Bond No. 9, Parfums de Marly, and MFK. Some of them even have Clive Christian. I'll go to places like that for the mainstream designer-level perfumes that'll cost me less than $100, like Guerlain Habit Rouge or Dior Fahrenheit. The Guerlains especially can be found for a steal. If I'm spending a more serious amount of money on a perfume, then I'll spend that money on something more exclusive that can't be found at a discounter.
Thank you! Just curious, which perfume houses do you like? Asking since you keep mentioning some as being synthetic.
 
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Thank you! Just curious, which perfume houses do you like? Asking since you keep mentioning some as being synthetic.
I'll second this question because I'm fascinated by the information. :smile:
I think (?) BDK is also owned by Initio, so I would have thought they'd fall into the synthetics category. I wonder if their fragrances smell extremely synthetic to someone who has a more refined sense of smell than I do.

Unrelated side note: I've reached a stage in recovery from my post-covid anosmia where I believe I am smelling things as they should be, so I am now making a mental note to re-test BDK fragrances and see if they smell harsher later.
In my early recovery, I thought that some Zara x Jo Malone fragrances smelled nice, easy and wearable, but now a few months on, I find them extremely synthetic and harsh; so my perception of scent does seem to be changing still. Rather unexpected and so confusing! :lol:
 
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Thank you! Just curious, which perfume houses do you like? Asking since you keep mentioning some as being synthetic.
Again, synthetic is not on its own a bad thing, plus almost everyone is using them. It's usually a combination of synthetic and/or lack of originality (clone house) and/or overpriced where a house really starts to lose me. There are houses that don't use synthetics, such as Hiram Green, but perfumes that are all natural (or, at least, bill themselves that way) usually do not have strong performance.

Frederic Malle's perfumes contain a ton of synthetics; however, it's one of my absolute favorite houses. He also speaks openly of the use of synthetics. The perfumes themselves, for the most part, do not give the impression of just being fancy pleasant-smelling lab chemicals. They're expensive, yes, but they're all artfully done. Frederic Malle also uses real ouds in some of his fragrances, like The Night, which is $1950 for 100ml because of the amount of real oud in it.

Profumum Roma is another one of my favorite houses. Their fragrances contain such a high amount of perfume oil in them that they're a very luxurious experience.

The majority of my collection is Dior, and it's probably my favorite house for its exclusive line. (The designer level fragrances are much more hit or miss, with the misses being almost every single version of Sauvage.) Again, they contain a ton of synthetics, but the experience of wearing their fragrances is always so beautifully refined. They're very well blended. They also used to be one of the best buys in perfumery, with their exclusive line being $210 for 125ml, but after watching so many people throw money at other trash houses, they've raised their prices at least $100 in less than five years.

Some houses I just won't touch, like MFK. Not only does almost every single one of them smell like screeching chemicals--some are so heavily synthetic and dependent on aromachemicals, like Baccarat Rouge 540, that they induce anosmia and I can't smell them at all (or all I can smell is a gross, thin sweetness)--but the reason they cost so much is because Roja Dove told Francis Kurkdijan to raise prices in order to generate sales. I do like some of the work that Francis Kurkdijan has done for OTHER houses. The perfume he created for Dior many years ago, Eau Noire, is fantastic and one of the ones that jumpstarted Dior's entire exclusive line. It seems that he does better under someone else's direction.

Perhaps the best house I've tried, though, is Henry Jacques. Those are all perfume oils, and while they're not all the most original in terms of composition, the experience of wearing the fragrances is so completely on a different level than I've experienced anywhere with any perfume.

Most other houses are very hit or miss for me, such as Le Labo, which has a few perfumes that I really love but also a lot that don't do much for me.

The ones I love from Le Labo, though, were done by Annick Menardo, who is perhaps my favorite perfumer. Maybe it is the perfumer who ultimately matters more than the house, as Annick Menardo works across different houses, many of which rely on a lot of synthetics--hell, she works (or has worked) for Firmenich, which creates tons of synthetics--but her work is always sublime, so she's a perfumer who knows how to use and blend ingredients well. I'll buy any perfume Annick Menardo is responsible for. I even begged Frederic Malle to pick her to make a new one for his line. I've got perfumes of hers from Dior, YSL, Bvlgari, and Le Labo, and I will buy more.

I'm not too interested in trying many new houses at this point. Most of the time they're just a disappointment. I'd rather just stick with what I know and love.
 
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