Travel PARIS tips - questions - advice!
- Thread starter blushingbaby
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You're welcome, and thank you for contributing so many wonderful tipsLove Place des Vosges. Many years ago, pre euro, we used to stay in Pavilion de la Reine across the way. We visited this past Spring, and it was so crowded. There was a Japanese Gallery, shop, eatery that was very cute. It was too crowded to wander around Rue Franc Bourgeois or Rue de Rosier, but I have the most lovely memories. Need to get back to the Picasso Museum one of these days. With @Tasha1, met Duret; toured his atelier; and had a lovely lunch.
These days, we stay at the Bulgari Hotel, (service is not as polished as French style, but very warm and friendly). across from the four seasons. The pasta there is a nice change from French food, and the breakfasts and afternoon panini snacks are delicious. We’ve enjoyed meals at Pavyllon (under Ledoyen, Omar Diab, and Guy Savoy, but GS seemed to be heavier than it was a year before. Mermoz is also delicious. And, your concierge can make restaurant reservations once you book your hotel. Have really enjoyed LV foundation (both the Morosov collection in 2022 and then the basquiat Warhol (Seen with @nymeriamodern French furniture is gorgeous with no customs upon entering the US: Pierre Agustin Rose; Kolkoze; YVES gastau; and a few others whose names escape me. DH loves the bespoke options at Charvet (shirts) and Corthay (shoes) and Duret (bags and belts). The mosaics and Roman antiquities at teh lovely gallery Chenel, on the Left Bank, are stunning, and less expensive than some Hermes bags. DH also adores the custom eye wear at Maison Bonnet, the company that did the iconic glasses for YSL and Jackie K. They are customized to your face; individually fitted on your nose, and they don’t slip.
Someone told me once that French fragrance is better bc of the water, IDK, if that’s true Post changes in IRFA regs, but the shops are lovely. One of my favorite RTW shops is Courreges, far less expensive than Courreges in the US, and a much better bargain than H with a flattering fit. Should you not feel like braving Hermes, and if you missed the exhibit in NY, the Dior museum is stunning. A hotel concierge may have tickets that allow you to enter a bit earlier and have some time there to yourself. I will confess that I thought Pierre Herme was a bit more special years ago, when there was only one location on Rue Bonaparte. back then, it was smaller, and they did lovely cookies, gateau breton, and kouign Aman.
Incidentally, there are many smaller French designers and shops that are charming and lovely, without the big names and high prices. IMO the best thing about Paris (or New York or London for that matter) is the walking and discovering. Which is free and very easy, no matter where you chose to stay.
OT: we also love VIenna, which I only mention here bc I think it is like a petite, relaxed, and less expensive version of Paris. Oddly one of the best Chinese meals at a sixteen seat wine bar, and my favorite shop, filled with one of a kind RTW, homewear, and other interesting things, called SONG.
ETA: forgot to add my thanks to @Veritybelle, but ugh, now I want some delicious and fattening Epoisses.
The Japanese store in the Marais is called Ogata- slightly pricey but great ambience and food. On that street there is also Sentiment de Choses for great Japanese Ceramics. Also on that street is Thaddeus Ropac and Galerie Karsten Greve - two fantastic fine art galleries ( KG was one of Cy Twombly’s first dealers ).Love Place des Vosges. Many years ago, pre euro, we used to stay in Pavilion de la Reine across the way. We visited this past Spring, and it was so crowded. There was a Japanese Gallery, shop, eatery that was very cute. It was too crowded to wander around Rue Franc Bourgeois or Rue de Rosier, but I have the most lovely memories. Need to get back to the Picasso Museum one of these days. With @Tasha1, met Duret; toured his atelier; and had a lovely lunch.
These days, we stay at the Bulgari Hotel, (service is not as polished as French style, but very warm and friendly). across from the four seasons. The pasta there is a nice change from French food, and the breakfasts and afternoon panini snacks are delicious. We’ve enjoyed meals at Pavyllon (under Ledoyen, Omar Diab, and Guy Savoy, but GS seemed to be heavier than it was a year before. Mermoz is also delicious. And, your concierge can make restaurant reservations once you book your hotel. Have really enjoyed LV foundation (both the Morosov collection in 2022 and then the basquiat Warhol (Seen with @nymeria
Someone told me once that French fragrance is better bc of the water, IDK, if that’s true Post changes in IRFA regs, but the shops are lovely. One of my favorite RTW shops is Courreges, far less expensive than Courreges in the US, and a much better bargain than H with a flattering fit. Should you not feel like braving Hermes, and if you missed the exhibit in NY, the Dior museum is stunning. A hotel concierge may have tickets that allow you to enter a bit earlier and have some time there to yourself. I will confess that I thought Pierre Herme was a bit more special years ago, when there was only one location on Rue Bonaparte. back then, it was smaller, and they did lovely cookies, gateau breton, and kouign Aman.
Incidentally, there are many smaller French designers and shops that are charming and lovely, without the big names and high prices. IMO the best thing about Paris (or New York or London for that matter) is the walking and discovering. Which is free and very easy, no matter where you chose to stay.
OT: we also love VIenna, which I only mention here bc I think it is like a petite, relaxed, and less expensive version of Paris. Oddly one of the best Chinese meals at a sixteen seat wine bar, and my favorite shop, filled with one of a kind RTW, homewear, and other interesting things, called SONG.
ETA: forgot to add my thanks to @Veritybelle
On Rue de Seine I enjoy Galerie Downtown Lafannour, Jousse Enterprise for mid century French furniture. Chastel Marechal for elegant and dreamy vintage design- (Jean Michel Frank & Royere) and if you want to be wow-ed Jacques Lacoste. All very very close so easily done in a morning. Galerie Chenel is great for antiquities- and second Pierre Augustin Rose as worth visiting - sitting on one of their couches as I type this
also if you like vintage and special jewelry I recommend Galerie Parisienne- amazing assortment of Belperron and Boivin- also on Rue de Seine.
We are going to PAR’s new location in a few weeksThe Japanese store in the Marais is called Ogata- slightly pricey but great ambience and food. On that street there is also Sentiment de Choses for great Japanese Ceramics. Also on that street is Thaddeus Ropac and Galerie Karsten Greve - two fantastic fine art galleries ( KG was one of Cy Twombly’s first dealers ).
On Rue de Seine I enjoy Galerie Downtown Lafannour, Jousse Enterprise for mid century French furniture. Chastel Marechal for elegant and dreamy vintage design- (Jean Michel Frank & Royere) and if you want to be wow-ed Jacques Lacoste. All very very close so easily done in a morning. Galerie Chenel is great for antiquities- and second Pierre Augustin Rose as worth visiting - sitting on one of their couches as I type this
. Please say hi to M for us if you are still there M also recommended O, the proprietor at Chenel for antiquities that are a fabulous counterpoint to the modern couches, and beautiful PAR and chenel pieces can easily fit into ones H budget lol. I am also a fan of Suzanne Belperron (I learned a lot from @kipp) but I only really know the new Verdura Belperron in NY (no idea how to source the stunning older stuff).@Lol22177 , I think we have some of the same taste
. We bought two of the curved couches for our living room and the confidence couch for our dressing room. Also recommend a French furniture company called SORS.
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I have seen great sofas at Chenel’s presentations at various fairs most notably TEFAF - really gorgeous. There is a office building in Hudson Yards ( Skadden’s building ) that has 12/14 HUGE ones in the lobby and they look gorgeous— although not sure how I feel about them being used as office furniture.We are going to PAR’s new location in a few weeks
@Lol22177 , I think we have some of the same taste
I don’t know much about new Belperron- but prefer the period items just because I love the history, their unique design, and often times prices can be better than from W. I’m out of my “gotta get every size every color” era w/ jewelry and Hermes ( lol )so love falling in love with a piece and the hunt. Stephen Russell, FD gallery and Siegelson are great person to learn about some of the best jewelry every made in NYC !
Also I am in Paris 4/5 times a year and the restaurant I go to every time is Clamato. Amazing bakery across the street too. Must go if you are willing to venture a bit away from the center. Amazing maple cake and exquisite seafood
Will look up Clamato*
I didn’t notice couches this year in the chenel installation on the second floor of TEFAF, but the mixed media chairs in Paris are from PAR (Another version used to be with the PAR wooden dining room table display) . On the first floor of TEFAF this past May, there was an amazing alabaster sculpture that looked like a totem pole stack of paper— from tornabuoni art gallery in the 8th arr. WAY out of my price range lol. But, the gallery represents this artist, and going there is like a mini museum experience. And, of course, looking costs nothing 
*Sadly, I’m of an age where I need to go to a restaurant that takes reservations lol. But Clamato looks delicious
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I am SO glad we started this discussion! I recently booked my next trip to Paris for May 2024 and I think I might have to extend it to make sure I have time to visit all these fantastic places! 
Wonderful & informative books on Suzanne Belperron which are chock full of her "jewels"We are going to PAR’s new location in a few weeks
@Lol22177 , I think we have some of the same taste
Suzanne Belperron.. by Sylvie Raulet (2011) & Jewlery by Suzanne Belperron: My Style is My Signature
by Patricia Corbett & Ward Landrigan (2016)
Primavera here in NYC may also have a collection of Belperron & Boivin
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I am hoping to do the same! I would really love to see the Van Gogh exhibit!!Thank you @Veritybelle for starting this thread- a lovely addition and potential antidote/alternative to the "Paris trip for Hermès" thread.
For anyone interested, these 2 art exhibitions will be in Paris- overlapping from October through February, although the Rothko will continue through April 3.
At the FLV ( which is worth the visit just for the architecture) Mark Rothko Retrospective
https://www.fondationlouisvuitton.fr/en/events/mark-rothko
At the Musee d'Orsay "Van Gogh at Auvers- sur-Oise" The last few months
https://www.musee-orsay.fr/fr/agenda/expositions/van-gogh-auvers-sur-oise
This plus all the croissants and cheese I can eat makes 4 ( maybe 5) days of perfection. Can't wait!!
Now, which bag do I wear............?
YES! We happened to walk past it on the the way to Père Lachaise in April and I recalled a friend giving it a rave. We ended up returning for lunch that day and four or five times again during our month in Paris. It was a long walk (~an hour) but worth it every time!
We affectionately named Rue de Seine ‘rue de merde’…we were staying nearby on Rue Mazarine and thus many of our daily adventures started along Rue de Seine and invariably an obstacle course around the merde du chienThe Japanese store in the Marais is called Ogata- slightly pricey but great ambience and food. On that street there is also Sentiment de Choses for great Japanese Ceramics. Also on that street is Thaddeus Ropac and Galerie Karsten Greve - two fantastic fine art galleries ( KG was one of Cy Twombly’s first dealers ).
On Rue de Seine I enjoy Galerie Downtown Lafannour, Jousse Enterprise for mid century French furniture. Chastel Marechal for elegant and dreamy vintage design- (Jean Michel Frank & Royere) and if you want to be wow-ed Jacques Lacoste. All very very close so easily done in a morning. Galerie Chenel is great for antiquities- and second Pierre Augustin Rose as worth visiting - sitting on one of their couches as I type this
But many lovely galleries including photography along the way.
One of our fave sweet indulgences in Paris are the little cream puffs from Popelini…there’s one in St Germain (not far from le grand Epicerie), one in the Marais and one up in the 10th somewhere. I can’t say enough good things about the dark chocolate!
Will also add Pho Bom ( a healthy walk from Jardin du Luxembourg ) has some of the best Vietnamese food I have ever had and I have a fondness for Bachir - amazing amazing Lebanese ice cream wrapped in pistachio. Also for a quick bite by Galerie Lafayette Miam Miam Cool has exceptional dumplings / noodles- think about them often
Also Carrefour carries the best selection of the line of chips Bret’s- puts Lays to shame ( although the Paysanne Lays are very very good )… also Michel and Augustin Cheese crackers are pure butter- very good too can be found at most Franprix / Monop / Carrefour.
If you want a really really special experience I would encourage you to look into Le Doyenne. Went with my partner and the whole experience was so magical- and some of the best breakfast I have ever had.
Also Carrefour carries the best selection of the line of chips Bret’s- puts Lays to shame ( although the Paysanne Lays are very very good )… also Michel and Augustin Cheese crackers are pure butter- very good too can be found at most Franprix / Monop / Carrefour.
If you want a really really special experience I would encourage you to look into Le Doyenne. Went with my partner and the whole experience was so magical- and some of the best breakfast I have ever had.
I loved the museum in Amsterdam as well as banksy.
I’m a huge fan of herme pierre macaron (I detest laudree).
There’s a lovely restaurant, name escapes me, middle of Eiffel Tower that is lovely because it gets you a ticket too, along with the lunch set (picnic with champagne).
Otherwise I love hanging around areas like the French quarter, as well as the usual shops like H.
