Hermes Special Order Bags

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Since this thread is now huge and the internal links to frequently asked questions no longer work, here is a brief FAQ for newcomers to the Hermes Special Order process.

What are the current choices for "a la carte" Special Order bags?
Current color charts Page 1529 Post 22,934 February 16, 2025
Most Recently Known Selection Definitions (bag types, sizes, combos) Sept 4, 2021 - Probably out of date
Thread Choices for stitching. - Probably out of date
Lucky Symbols for stamping.


What is an Hermes Special Order?
Each year Hermes gives select clients the opportunity to customize a classic bag in a made-to-order a la carte process. This thread is only for bag A La Carte orders (please use the separate threads for watch SOs and shoe SOs). "A la carte", "SO" (special order), and "HSS" (horse shoe stamp) are used interchangeably on this forum.

When is the Special Order season?
Currently, there is one SO season each calendar year, opening around the middle of February and closing when slots run out or the end of December, whichever occurs first. New SO menus are typically leaked in February and remain constant until the following calendar year. Individual stores have complete discretion on when, within this window, they offer SO appointments to their clients.

Which specs can I customize?
Hermes defines which specs can be customized and these specs can change each SO season. Generally these specs include: leather type, leather color, and hardware color. At your SO appointment, your SA will present you will the limited menu of choices including bag types and sizes (Birkin 25, Kelly 28, etc), pre-set combination designs (line, verso, multico, etc), leather choices, leather colors, hardwares, and a map for which options can be selected for which bag type and size. Not all leathers and hardwares are allowed for all bag types and sizes.

Can I make physical changes to a bag definition during SO?
Sometimes clients would like to change a physical aspect of a bag, like increase the handle drop or add a pocket or a strap. Unfortunately, Hermes does not allow any type of alteration to the bag definition during SO. For extensive changes like these, a client would need to pursue a “Horizon order” which can be read about here.

How long will my SO take?
There is no way to predict how long a SO will take from placing the order to receipt of the finished product. Although Hermes has recently put forward efforts to fulfill a la carte orders within a year, it isn’t uncommon for bags to arrive in just a few months or also much longer than the year estimate.

Can my SA give me status my existing SO?
Unfortunately, the info that can be seen by SAs at the local store is very limited. They can generally see if the order is still outstanding (ie hasn’t been cancelled) but do not get status updates beyond that. Some stores will update clients when they get notice that a bag has been shipped from Paris but other stores wait until the bag is physically in store before alerting the client.

Do I need to place a deposit for SO?
In most regions of the world, a deposit is not required for SOs. However, some Asian and Middle Eastern locations do seem to request at least a partial deposit. Deposits may also be required in other regions if the SO selections are very personalized (ie if you have your personal initials hot stamped onto the bag) such that selling the bag to a different client, if the original client declines the bag, would be difficult.

Do I receive confirmation of my SO after placing my order?
In most regions of the world, the client gives their specifications to their SA and that is the last they hear about it until the bag arrives. Paris stores seem to be an exception to this and send the client a confirmation email within a few weeks of placing the order.

Is there a premium for a SO bag?
No, there is no premium price for SO bags. Their price is the same as any other standard stock bag of the same specifications at the time of delivery.

Is my SO a quota bag?
SO bags are generally counted toward a client’s two-bags-per-year limit at the time that the bag is received and paid for. If a client has already maxed out their quota bag allocation for the year, some stores will allow an exception to purchase your SO as a third bag for the year while other stores will require the customer to wait until a new calendar year before receiving the bag. These policies are subject to be changed per store at their convenience so it is always wise to check with your specific SA.

Where can I get ideas for my SO bag?
This thread shows unique combination bags and this thread shows contrasting stitching bags. Please consider posting your bag there once it arrives!

Where can I see historical SO menus?
2024 on post 21,296 page 1420 Feb 7, 2024
2023 on post 19,874 page 1325 Feb 3, 2023
2022 on post 17,729 page 1182 Sept 13, 2021
2021 on post 15,439 page 1030 Aug 16, 2020
2020 on post 13,222 page 882 Aug 8, 2019
2019 on post 10,472 page 699 Sept 10, 2018
2018 on post 7,687 page 513 Sept 15, 2017
2017 on post 4,749 page 317 Sept 26, 2016
 
They are open currently through at least may, and perhaps even year round for the right client at FSH. However, it sounds like you declined the opportunity and would thus need a new invitation which is far from guaranteed. Good luck!
I met an SA in FSH in November but no bag was available. She gave me an appointment in March. She told me no guarantee on the stock in March but SO are also an option! I was very surprised as it was the first time I met her. I asked more details but she told me “we will discuss that in March”. Is it common to offer SO to non regular clients In FSH?
 
I met an SA in FSH in November but no bag was available. She gave me an appointment in March. She told me no guarantee on the stock in March but SO are also an option! I was very surprised as it was the first time I met her. I asked more details but she told me “we will discuss that in March”. Is it common to offer SO to non regular clients In FSH?
Not “common” but not unheard of either. Could also just be puffing. It’s so hard to tell with Hermes SAs these days. Hopefully she comes through for you.
 
I met an SA in FSH in November but no bag was available. She gave me an appointment in March. She told me no guarantee on the stock in March but SO are also an option! I was very surprised as it was the first time I met her. I asked more details but she told me “we will discuss that in March”. Is it common to offer SO to non regular clients In FSH?
It happened to me a year ago. I do shop in the 3 Paris boutiques and I'm far from being a big fish !
I declined a B and the SA offered me to do a SO right there on the spot.
(My bag hasn't arrived yet)
 
Regarding the “can’t order a regular-looking bag” rule for SO, if I do a contrast stitch (like mauve sylvestre) on rose sakura (for example) is this enough of a contrast to meet the rule? Not sure I can place a SO this time, but want to be prepared.

Regarding permabrass hardware, does anyone know the color of the Hermès stamp that goes above it? A gold-coloured stamp is used for gold and rose gold hardware, palladium for palladium hardware, but wondering about permabrass, and if it matches. (The gold stamp above the rose gold hardware on a black bag sort of really bothered me when I saw it on a black bag because it did not match the hardware exactly.) Thanks.
 
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Regarding the “can’t order a regular-looking bag” rule for SO, if I do a contrast stitch (like mauve sylvestre) on rose sakura (for example) is this enough of a contrast to meet the rule? Not sure I can place a SO this time, but want to be prepared.

Regarding permabrass hardware, does anyone know the color of the Hermès stamp that goes above it? A gold-coloured stamp is used for gold and rose gold hardware, palladium for palladium hardware, but wondering about permabrass, and if it matches. (The gold stamp above the rose gold hardware on a black bag sort of really bothered me when I saw it on a black bag because it did not match the hardware exactly.) Thanks.
On my Permabrass bags it looks like gold stamps to me.
 
Regarding the “can’t order a regular-looking bag” rule for SO, if I do a contrast stitch (like mauve sylvestre) on rose sakura (for example) is this enough of a contrast to meet the rule? Not sure I can place a SO this time, but want to be prepared.

Regarding permabrass hardware, does anyone know the color of the Hermès stamp that goes above it? A gold-coloured stamp is used for gold and rose gold hardware, palladium for palladium hardware, but wondering about permabrass, and if it matches. (The gold stamp above the rose gold hardware on a black bag sort of really bothered me when I saw it on a black bag because it did not match the hardware exactly.) Thanks.
On a single-color bag: technically these are not allowed, but some clients are still doing them - same way some folks can order "off menu" for a la carte. The way around it, otherwise, is to do a verso with two colors that are very similar. Then your stitch can be tonal or contrast. It's actually a nice effect, very subtle.

Permabrass HW bags have gold stamping. It looks fine to me, but it does bother me a little on rose gold HW bags.
 
On a single-color bag: technically these are not allowed, but some clients are still doing them - same way some folks can order "off menu" for a la carte. The way around it, otherwise, is to do a verso with two colors that are very similar. Then your stitch can be tonal or contrast. It's actually a nice effect, very subtle.

Permabrass HW bags have gold stamping. It looks fine to me, but it does bother me a little on rose gold HW bags.
Great advice to consider doing a verso with similar colors. I still haven’t done contrast stitch but am thinking about it as a subtle design element. Permabrass hardware sounds like it works well with the gold stamp in terms of color similarity. Thank you for the input!
 
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On a single-color bag: technically these are not allowed, but some clients are still doing them - same way some folks can order "off menu" for a la carte. The way around it, otherwise, is to do a verso with two colors that are very similar. Then your stitch can be tonal or contrast. It's actually a nice effect, very subtle.

Permabrass HW bags have gold stamping. It looks fine to me, but it does bother me a little on rose gold HW bags.

I feel the same when I see RGHW with gold stamping. My friend got a B25 in black with RGHW and that gold stamp would really bother me if it was my bag..
 
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