Scarves Hermès scarf colors

[Etriers]

I found this interesting article in the Houston Chronicle online about the incredible scarf dyeing process. According to this, it takes 400-600 hours just to prepare the design for screening: https://www.chron.com/life/article/The-Hermes-scarf-process-3919853.php

I was fascinated to learn that they dye the scarves smallest color areas to largest and darkest to lightest. I would have guessed entirely opposite.

 

[Etriers]

If you still have all 3 out ... TOUR & HIVER look to be an older printing style eg the logo on TOUR does not have perfectly shaped letters, not broken but typical of early ones. 3M on the other hand looks to have better printing (or am I hallucinating???) It is the latest of the 3 and might be printed with more accurate technology.
I will try to pull mine and scrutinize.... when my hands are washed, not now
Based on empirical observations of (obsessing about LOL) my own scarves, I think they bought better/different printing machines ca 1979, sometime in the 1990s, 2004 and more recently
So a pre-1979 scarf is printed not as crisply as a post-1979 one, but I dont know the exact transition date, around the time of 3M and when Jean Louis Dumas took over.
And of course, until recently, the scarves all soaked through to the reverse side
Everyone needs a hobby to keep them amused, this is one of mine LOL

Interesting! Wouldn’t the soaking through make the design less crisp also? If the fabric was more wet I would think edges would bleed more.

 

[marietouchet]

I found this interesting article in the Houston Chronicle online about the incredible scarf dyeing process. According to this, it takes 400-600 hours just to prepare the design for screening: https://www.chron.com/life/article/The-Hermes-scarf-process-3919853.php

I was fascinated to learn that they dye the scarves smallest color areas to largest and darkest to lightest. I would have guessed entirely opposite.

A note - the article is dated 04 Oct. 2012 from the days of the Festival des Metiers., I always like marking the date of the info, because , for example, this is not about wash scarves, they came much later

 

[marietouchet]

Interesting! Wouldn’t the soaking through make the design less crisp also? If the fabric was more wet I would think edges would bleed more.

The inks are not what I would call wet, they are viscous , not like fountain pen ink, more like acrylic paint used by kids, they dont flow readily, you have to push them around, squeegee it

 

[Jbizzybeetle]

A little look at soak-through color, light on dark, with ecru/purple CW Cavalcade de Mai finesse. Photos 1&2 blend natural and ambient outdoor light sources; 3&4 reflect flash. Ecru going for the gold!

 

[Julide]

A little look at soak-through color, light on dark, with ecru/purple CW Cavalcade de Mai finesse. Photos 1&2 blend natural and ambient outdoor light sources; 3&4 reflect flash. Ecru going for the gold!

Oooo! I’m so glad you got this! I was staring at one on eBay and it was agonizing. I’m so glad I get to see more of it! A stunning scarf. Congratulations!!

 

[Jbizzybeetle]

Oooo! I’m so glad you got this! I was staring at one on eBay and it was agonizing. I’m so glad I get to see more of it! A stunning scarf. Congratulations!!

Thank you! You were watching the purple on the bay? I’m giddy over it, going to take more wear piks for SOTD.

 

[Julide]

Thank you! You were watching the purple on the bay? I’m giddy over it, going to take more wear piks for SOTD.

I’m not sure. It looked like navy but it could have been purple. It was beautiful. This finesse design is so wonderful

 

[Jbizzybeetle]

I’m not sure. It looked like navy but it could have been purple. It was beautiful. This finesse design is so wonderful

Look back and DM me? Curious if more than one but don’t want to hijack the thread further.

 

[Jbizzybeetle]

What a difference a little sunshine makes!


Indoors:

 

[Jbizzybeetle]

St. Malo, attributed Grygkar 1940s, really interesting coloration and “coloring inside the lines” during printscreening. IRL cooler tones to all colors.


reverse




the “uni-corner” seems to be a duo-horner...or maybe a dragon? photo seems to reflect the “glittery” element in the ink.

 

[Jbizzybeetle]

Comparing coloration and saturation (amount color and design showing thru to reverse) two attributed Grygkar: St. Malo, 1947(?) and Mont Sainct Michel (reissued plisse 2009?): my IRL opinion—both brilliant colors with StM deeper intensity and MSM brighter. tagging @marietouchet to pop in to share any thoughts?
top to bottom
1. StM, left; MSM right: mixed warm overhead light/natural window light; comparison bit difficult flat vs plisse and difference in fabrics (newer plisse half-shadowed, stiffer twill) as well as backgrounds, inks, screenprinting techniques, etc.; would be interesting with original MSM, disputed whether 1940s or 1960s by some.
2. trying to directly compare the “castle-town” sections
3. reverses flat
4 & 5: reverses hung against natural light window on cloudy day.

 

[Jbizzybeetle]

well, I fell off the “not buying vintage” wagon again....as any addict, have an excellent excuse...thinking of one as we speak.
The colors in this Tapisserie de Bayeux (Pittner, 1940) are marvelous. Bright and snappy, a bit of color spread/fade here and there as it might have been washed sometime. Only one spot.
A few things considering: First, so bright and perfect—is it authentic? maybe the one time I’ll seek post-purchase professional authentication as can still return if not authentic. second, wool? really tight weave, light material feel, I’d almost think linen first if just handed the item with no information—in fact, given the color tones and the lightness of being, I wouldn’t be surprised if someone mistook this darling for one of my grandmother’s dish towels on display. third, of the 3-4 photos I’ve seen only this one and the one in Fontan’s third ed. shows the king robed in a color other than the border color—I wonder if the silk versions differ from the wool in this use of color robe/border?

 

[Nomad]

well, I fell off the “not buying vintage” wagon again....as any addict, have an excellent excuse...thinking of one as we speak.
The colors in this Tapisserie de Bayeux (Pittner, 1940) are marvelous. Bright and snappy, a bit of color spread/fade here and there as it might have been washed sometime. Only one spot.
A few things considering: First, so bright and perfect—is it authentic? maybe the one time I’ll seek post-purchase professional authentication as can still return if not authentic. second, wool? really tight weave, light material feel, I’d almost think linen first if just handed the item with no information—in fact, given the color tones and the lightness of being, I wouldn’t be surprised if someone mistook this darling for one of my grandmother’s dish towels on display. third, of the 3-4 photos I’ve seen only this one and the one in Fontan’s third ed. shows the king robed in a color other than the border color—I wonder if the silk versions differ from the wool in this use of color robe/border?View attachment 4921149View attachment 4921150View attachment 4921151View attachment 4921152View attachment 4921153

Another gorgeous one! Yes interesting weave. Like a tight linen in photos

 

[xincinsin]

I was so inspired by @Jbizzybeetle's ecru and gold cw of Cavalcade de Mai that I went searching for more examples of this design . Shall post pics later when the light is less gloomy. I find that colours can look very different when you compare photos taken in temperate climes vs tropical climes.