The brand recognition of Graff is lower than other designers, so overall its resale is worse. It also has a smaller pool of interested buyers in the brand. Though, I’ve always had wonderful interactions visiting Graff stores.
I recently attended a live auction for the first time, and my most vivid memory is that the Tiffany Schlumberger pieces were selling for so much higher than the estimated price. (Once again, making me wish I had bought more Schlumberger pieces years ago…) There were some Harry Winston pieces, which sold within the expected range. Some VCA pieces, too, most sold within the expected value, but a few went over. The Cartier pieces all sold within the estimated range. There were only a few Bulgari pieces, which sold at or slightly above the estimate, but there wasn’t a lot to make out any trends. There were a few rare Elsa Peretti pieces, which went over the estimated range. The generic Tiffany sold within the estimated range. There were even a few Boucheron pieces, which sold within the expected range.
There weren’t any Graff pieces at the event. Overall, however, I think Graff really only holds value for its collector items, such as its sizable colored diamonds. Just based on what I know about the brand, I think Graff’s resale is less dependent on branding or design, and more dependent on the source material. Graff is also a newer brand compared to Harry Winston, which it is often compared to. I mean, the founder is still alive, so it’s hard to make out if the company has enduring longevity.
There’s a brand “hierarchy” chart floating somewhere on the internet, where Graff is placed at number one. I think it’s probably because the person doing research saw that Graff has sold some of the most expensive items ever in the history of jewelry. But in terms of why those items were sold at those prices, it has little to do with Graff as a company, and more to do with the rare stones themselves. Graff’s retail markups (which are probably the better barometer for brand equity) are much smaller than VCA, Cartier, or Tiffany. That being said, I think you get a lot of value in terms of the combination of craftsmanship, quality, and service from Graff.