I think it's also worth discussing the more technical differences between the leathers, because they are significantly different.
Leathers like Togo, Clemence, Swift, etc are more modern "chemical process" tanned leathers which has several benefits:
- It has significantly shorter processing time allowing for faster and less expensive production (chrome tanning takes a few days vs the few weeks for traditional vegetable tanning)
- They can achieve a wider and brighter range of color which is also more even
- It is less prone to aging and patina, aka looking "like new" longer
On the other hand, "heritage" leathers at Hermès are traditional vegetable tanned leathers, which as mentioned above take longer to produce, but also have their own list of benefits:
- While they will be much more prone to quickly developing a "patina," vegetable tanned leathers, especially high-quality ones, can last far longer than chrome-tanned leathers
- They're less prone or even nearly impervious to water exposure
- Scuffs and scratches can usually be gently rubbed-in/away, or at least will fade over time, AND there's no worry of scratching "through" the color because the leather is usually the same color all the way through
- Also the color will never crack with age/dryness
- They have a deeper and stronger smell
With regard to maintenance, I think "higher maintenance" is subjective like said above...BF would be able to handle more incidents and brush them off than Togo, which if scratched deep enough would need taken to the spa for a fix. Also chemical tanned leathers will typically dry out a little faster than vegetable tanned leathers.
In my opinion, it's some mix of (1) personal preference and (2) how long you want to be able to functionally use and carry the bag. For example, if you just want your bag to look the same or at least develop minimal/no patina for a number of years, then a chemical process leather is a great choice and an Hermès leather of this category, with thoughtful use and care, should easily look great for at least 10-15 years, many go longer. On the other hand, if you really want a bag that could be in it for the long-haul, say 40+ years, a vegetable-tanned leather is the better choice, as long as you enjoy a healthy dose of patina along the way.
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