Coach Rehab and Rescue Club

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Hi whateve! I really wish I would have come here first. Live and learn, I guess. Thanks so much for the advice and the product recs! Most of my leather care products are intended for saddles and such, and I'm finding they don't always work as I expect them to on things like shoes, purses, and jackets. I'm actually really excited to try the dunk method; I didn't know you could get leather wet like that without destroying it, and the purse definitely needs some re-shaping given that it's been squashed flat at the bottom of a closet since the 90's. I'm guessing I should go really heavy with the Leather CPR afterwards? Just give it everything it will absorb? What about neatsfoot oil? Or will that break down the leather too much? It's already pretty soft.

Thanks again for your help! :smile:
You're welcome! I haven't used Neetsfoot oil. I know some people do. I would be afraid it would darken and possibly emphasize the color variation even more. One thing I like about Leather CPR is that it doesn't darken. It's probably a good idea to let it absorb as much conditioner as it can. Don't leave it sitting on for hours though because you could get a white haze. Make sure to buff after every coat and wait about 12 hours before doing it again. If the leather is already soft, it probably is in pretty good condition.
 
So I've played around with a wristlet I found at Value Village, dunked and washed and conditioned and it turned out well (though I completely forgot to take before photos), and I felt confident enough to try and take on an old flap bag I found on ebay. It was going for $17 and had a black spot on the back, but I figured it was worth trying -- even if I screwed it up, the spot was on the back and the bag wasn't too expensive. I'm not 100% satisfied - the flap is soft but wrinkly still, and there's a little spot on the flap that I want to take another pass at with soilove at some point (not visible from a distance but I know it's there), but overall it's definitely better than it was. The bones of the thing were still in great shape - piping is perfect and the stitching is solid - and the colour thing I can work with.

So here are the before pics, right out of the bag from the mail. Martini Flap H1C-9140, in what the seller called 'brick red.'

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And the after pictures - following a spot treatment with soilove, a dunk and a couple of rinses, conditioner with a bit of acrylic paint on the fading left around the spot, two rounds of conditioner (Roots leather conditioner), and a once-over with mink oil.

Any tips on how to get rid of the pressure scar line across the top of the flap? I think it must have been stored pressed against the strap. I rubbed it quite a bit when buffing, but it doesn't seem to have changed much (if at all).
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And the after pictures - following a spot treatment with soilove, a dunk and a couple of rinses, conditioner with a bit of acrylic paint on the fading left around the spot, two rounds of conditioner (Roots leather conditioner), and a once-over with mink oil.

Any tips on how to get rid of the pressure scar line across the top of the flap? I think it must have been stored pressed against the strap. I rubbed it quite a bit when buffing, but it doesn't seem to have changed much (if at all).
View attachment 3603200 View attachment 3603201 View attachment 3603202 View attachment 3603203
Lovely work.
 
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My little Bleeker family! I love this leather-it seems indestructible! The satchel (9303) was in great shape. Dunked, Saphir conditioner and Blackrocks. The shoulder bag (9303) was in rougher shape. Dunked, conditioned, 1 coat Blackrocks then another coat of Blackrocks mixed with Saphir colorant. Also had to mend a spot near the handle base with a few stitches.View attachment 3602433
These look so nice. Great job.
 
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Question for acetone users:
When doing multiple acetone treatments, should I apply the big gun conditioners like mink oil or leather honey between rounds/dunks? Or are thick conditioners going to make shoe polish even harder to remove?
This is the burgundy NYC Shoulder pouch if that helps. I got about 70% of the shoe polish off, but then it got too cold outside, so another round is necessary. I dunked and it's crazy dry - gobbled up CPR.
 
And the after pictures - following a spot treatment with soilove, a dunk and a couple of rinses, conditioner with a bit of acrylic paint on the fading left around the spot, two rounds of conditioner (Roots leather conditioner), and a once-over with mink oil.

Any tips on how to get rid of the pressure scar line across the top of the flap? I think it must have been stored pressed against the strap. I rubbed it quite a bit when buffing, but it doesn't seem to have changed much (if at all).
View attachment 3603200 View attachment 3603201 View attachment 3603202 View attachment 3603203

So nice! You just helped me reframe my soilove failures on fabric as potential successes on leather...
Re dents, I think I remember reading about others using heat. Maybe a hairdryer and even ironing with a press cloth?? You might try searching for those but proceed at your own risk - I've never tried it!
 
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New Flitz (right) v. Old
I love Flitz and am testing the new formula, which is supposed to have more anti-corrosion/tarnish power. It is also more paste-like, so you can control application better. The smell, however, is awful - as bad as Brasso - and it's no longer labeled Eco-safe. It costs 3x as much per oz and I'm not seeing any better tarnish removal.
Anyone else tried it?

IMG_1487092631.043674.jpg
 
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Question for acetone users:
When doing multiple acetone treatments, should I apply the big gun conditioners like mink oil or leather honey between rounds/dunks? Or are thick conditioners going to make shoe polish even harder to remove?
This is the burgundy NYC Shoulder pouch if that helps. I got about 70% of the shoe polish off, but then it got too cold outside, so another round is necessary. I dunked and it's crazy dry - gobbled up CPR.

I can't answer for sure, but it seems like the heavier conditioners might do little good at this point, and might possibly "gunk things up" (term of art :biggrin:) more than I'd like. Just a feeling.
 
New Flitz (right) v. Old
I love Flitz and am testing the new formula, which is supposed to have more anti-corrosion/tarnish power. It is also more paste-like, so you can control application better. The smell, however, is awful - as bad as Brasso - and it's no longer labeled Eco-safe. It costs 3x as much per oz and I'm not seeing any better tarnish removal.
Anyone else tried it?

View attachment 3605560
The only one I've ever tried is the one on the right. I think it does a better job than Brasso but it doesn't remove everything.
 
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I can't answer for sure, but it seems like the heavier conditioners might do little good at this point, and might possibly "gunk things up" (term of art :biggrin:) more than I'd like. Just a feeling.

That was my gut feeling too - the heavier conditioners might grab
onto leather AND polish! I just don't want it to dry out so much it cracks so I'll feed it a little more CPR until it dries.
Thanks for the input!
 
Is there a better option? What's your favorite all-around conditioner?

ALOHA ALL! Our power & Internet has been out so I'm just now catching up... I know manymany people LOVE CPR. It;s inexpensive & it gives a nice looking finish. Silicone breaks down the leather fibers. It is like using that Avon product "Silicone Glove". The first time I used CPR, I noticed the similarity. Since the manufacturers of CPR won't disclose their ingredients(Silicone being their SECRET WEAPON). COACH leater care products USED to contain Silicone, I can't speak about their present concoctions& ingredients because I have no clue what they use in their products currently. I can only guess that it is something that doesn't PRESERVE & costs waaay too much & surely contains Petroleum based products.
We use mineral oil based moisturizers on your skin.-like Baby Oil Vaseline is Petroleum jelly..Read the ingredients in your skin care products, most use petroleum based(mineral oil) products. It feels good at first but it doesn't penetrate through the layers of derma.. Remember that leather is made from Cows, a once living breathing animal.So, it has pores that absorb dirt, dust pollution etc. The pores also absorb leather conditioner, if you block the pores, you have a layer of conditioner that just lays atop the surface.
The reason I always wash my bags with soap & water is to Get the Years OFF! IMO -slathering conditioners on top of dirt just pushes more layers of crap into the original leather. Anyone that thinks they are "REHABBING" a bag by using saddle soap or by slathering it with pore clogging leather conditioners is just "sweeping the dirt under the rug" Same thing with NOT removing the hardware or using Brasso instead of stripping the film off the brass. I'm a purist-or I'm kinda insane obsessive perfectionist Either way,I go" full tilt boogie" on my bags and the Hardware..
If you notice how easily you can scratch a COACH bag, you will notice how easy it is to use the warmth of your hands to massage said scratch out. I'm talking normal wear here,NOT gouges.
That being said,the leather is still malleable, it will still accept a penetrating non synthetic -non petroleum based, non silicone oil. Long lasting natural oils that don't go rancid-including, coconut & other nut based oils,work perfectly well. Olive oil works . To answer the question...My Favorite-use all the time- leather conditioner is LEATHER Therapy..It contains NO Petroleum based distillates, silicone or waxes.
This is purely my opinion, based on my experience in rehabbing hundreds of Vintage leather purses bags, briefcases, luggages wallets, gloves,leather jax, clothing & shoes .Don't use it on Suede.
And ...OF COURSE,There are manymany other products like leather honey etc. that are worth experimenting with..Read the ingredients & stay away from petroleum & silicone based products. CHEERS! S.
 
The only one I've ever tried is the one on the right. I think it does a better job than Brasso but it doesn't remove everything.

If you want to remove the scratches,tarnish & verdigris from your hardware,FOR GOOD.. You need to steel wool the coating off the brass.None of the products are going to take the place of plain old "Elbow Grease".Dump the Miracle Products, get some steel wool & work it. Then wash the brass off with soap & water.You can .apply Brasso for a shiny sheen. Once the Brass has the coating removed, you can easily make it shine with Brasso or use the main ingredient in Brasso-which is ammonia.(Also the main ingredient in Windex) .I prob only use 5 products for my household cleaning - Soap,vinegar, baking soda, salt & Bleach.
Brasso lasts forever & goes a long way. I would much rather spend my money in the Wine section of my Grocery Store,,,than buying Household cleaners that are overpriced. Everything that needs to be cleaned needs scrubbing, there are no miracle cleansers. And for the amount we spend on Bottled Cleaners..the savings will buy you a Vintage COACH bag that doesn't need that much work-or even Maybe ?someone to clean the house once a month...No kidding, do a tally of all the bottled store bought cleansers that we all have shoved under our kitchen & bathroom sinks & laundry rooms..betcha many or most "cleansers" have the same ingredients- they are just labeled & assigned to different rooms or areas & have Alternative "fragrances" Just my 2 cents ladies. Ya ALWAYS have to SCRUB..whether it's with sand, salt, bleach or some 'spensive store bought cleanser. Buy some rubber gloves..LOL!
 
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