Coach Rehab and Rescue Club

TPF may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others

#11,146
Ravvie99 said:
Help - I've run into my first uncooperative lining stain! No clue what it is - it's in the pocket of a thrifted Soho leather pleated tote. I've tried alcohol, baking soda, Dawn, Dawn + baking soda + hydrogen peroxide (tip - this will remove even old yellow pit stains), diluted Simple Green, and Oxyclean. These got out some but not all stains. Thinking of buying Tuff Stuff but thought I'd check with you guys first.

Anything better I should try? Should I just zip the pocket shut and get on with life :D
Click to expand...

I agree with Whateve, zip the pocket shut and get on with your life. It is the lining of your bag in the pocket. It isn't worth any more effort or expense.
 
#11,147
whateve said:
Leave it alone and get on with your life!

ETA: I bought some Tuff Stuff and it didn't work any better than the stuff I already had. I have bought so many stain removers, thinking that the latest will finally work miraculously. It never happens.
Click to expand...

You didn't like Tuff Stuff? I've used it to get black tar, I'm not sure exactly what it was but that's what it looked like (maybe old gum or resin?) out of the lining of a purse I bought and I've even scrubbed dried nail polish out of carpet with it before. The worse the problem is, the more elbow grease has to be put into the job. I don't know if it will completely take away a set in stain though. It is mostly good for cleaning up the grime and it will definitely work on some of the stains. I use a toothbrush or facial brush to scrub it in after it sets for a few minutes. I've even used a magic eraser along with it to get stains out. What product do you normally use?
 
#11,148
Ravvie99 said:
Help - I've run into my first uncooperative lining stain! No clue what it is - it's in the pocket of a thrifted Soho leather pleated tote. I've tried alcohol, baking soda, Dawn, Dawn + baking soda + hydrogen peroxide (tip - this will remove even old yellow pit stains), diluted Simple Green, and Oxyclean. These got out some but not all stains. Thinking of buying Tuff Stuff but thought I'd check with you guys first.

Anything better I should try? Should I just zip the pocket shut and get on with life :D
Click to expand...

I agree with whateve and coach943. I don't know if Tuff Stuff would remove this kind of stain. OxyClean probably would if you soak it long enough in a strong enough solution but then you run the risk of ruining the entire bag. I've done this kind of thing more than I would like to admit. I focus on a small problem and work at it until the small stain is gone at the expense of the entire purse. I'm trying to stop doing that.
 
Last edited:
#11,149
Almmac said:
I've always had great results with shining brass with Blue Magic. It is the best product I've ever used and I've tried the moistened clothes that come in the silver pouch. I usually apply it with a cotton swab and rub it in a little. I will wipe off the excess with the other end of the cotton swab and polish it with a microfiber cloth. If the metal is extremely tarnished and rusty looking I will add a bit more Blue Magic with the cotton swab and use a bit of super fine steel wool to rub the gunk off. You would not believe how much blackness this stuff gets off brass. It's supposed to leave behind a protective coating that inhibits future tarnishing too. I've never had to repolish anything I've used this stuff on so maybe it does.
Click to expand...

soozlz said:
Blue magic!!! It's the best!! I rehabbed an English saddle several years ago. The brass bag loops and buckles cleaned up beautifully.

Ps. My stew is peaking out from under a towel. I can see it out if the corner of my eye. I'm dying to blackrocks it and I can't. I got home from work late and I have to go to bed soon : ( thank you for letting me cry on the collective shoulder.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the Blue Magic recs - will try it when my Flitz runs out. Coincidentally read the label of BM yesterday while looking for Tuff Stuff.

Looking forward to some delicious Stew!
 
#11,150
whateve said:
Leave it alone and get on with your life!

ETA: I bought some Tuff Stuff and it didn't work any better than the stuff I already had. I have bought so many stain removers, thinking that the latest will finally work miraculously. It never happens.
Click to expand...

coach943 said:
I agree with Whateve, zip the pocket shut and get on with your life. It is the lining of your bag in the pocket. It isn't worth any more effort or expense.
Click to expand...

Almmac said:
I agree with whateve and coach943. I don't know if Tuff Stuff would remove this kind of stain. OxyClean probably would if you soak it long enough in a strong enough solution but then you run the risk of ruining the entire bag. I've done this kind of thing more than I would like to admit. I focus on a small problem and work at it until the small stain is gone at the expense of the entire purse. I'm trying to stop doing that.
Click to expand...

Thank you all for saving me from myself! Realizing I obsess over bags I do for my Mom. Moving on!
 
#11,151
whateve said:
Wow, amazing! I have a Bleecker large flap that has heavy scratches on the (antiqued) brass buckle. I wonder if this would help.
Click to expand...

Whateve, I'm not optimistic Flitz will help with antique brass. Tried two applications on some Carly hardware and didn't make a huge difference. It seems a good choice for high shine on reg. brass or nickel.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0366.JPG
    IMG_0366.JPG
    76.4 KB · Views: 224
  • IMG_0368.JPG
    IMG_0368.JPG
    96.3 KB · Views: 228
#11,152
Almmac said:
I've always had great results with shining brass with Blue Magic. It is the best product I've ever used and I've tried the moistened clothes that come in the silver pouch. I usually apply it with a cotton swab and rub it in a little. I will wipe off the excess with the other end of the cotton swab and polish it with a microfiber cloth. If the metal is extremely tarnished and rusty looking I will add a bit more Blue Magic with the cotton swab and use a bit of super fine steel wool to rub the gunk off. You would not believe how much blackness this stuff gets off brass. It's supposed to leave behind a protective coating that inhibits future tarnishing too. I've never had to repolish anything I've used this stuff on so maybe it does.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tip about Blue Magic, Almmac, never heard of it before. Yesterday I successfully removed the leftover lacquer from my Derby's springlock with super fine steel wool and Brasso. Didn't take much effort, and the knob looks much better now.
 
#11,153
This is for those who has experience in dealing with patented leather. As much as I try avoiding it, it keeps showing up among my bags. I don't know whose bright idea it was to trim this satchel's corners with ivory patented leather - so here it is, bare corners and discolored patches. The only reason I got it from a yard sale was it was the size and shape my mom was looking for, and it was only $5. It was also very dirty and had tons of pen marks inside, but this was not very hard to fix with some alcohol and washing in the washing machine. I'll try fixing the corners with glossy puff paint, but I have no idea how to deal with the discolored areas. I know they're practically not removable, so I thought about masking them with glossy acrylics, but I'm worried about peeling. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated!
 

Attachments

  • WIN_20160325_164458.JPG
    WIN_20160325_164458.JPG
    411.6 KB · Views: 237
#11,154
catthecurious said:
This is for those who has experience in dealing with patented leather. As much as I try avoiding it, it keeps showing up among my bags. I don't know whose bright idea it was to trim this satchel's corners with ivory patented leather - so here it is, bare corners and discolored patches. The only reason I got it from a yard sale was it was the size and shape my mom was looking for, and it was only $5. It was also very dirty and had tons of pen marks inside, but this was not very hard to fix with some alcohol and washing in the washing machine. I'll try fixing the corners with glossy puff paint, but I have no idea how to deal with the discolored areas. I know they're practically not removable, so I thought about masking them with glossy acrylics, but I'm worried about peeling. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated!
Click to expand...

I personally have given up on getting pre owned patent leather bags, because no matter what I tried I was never successful in getting ink, stains, marks of the leather.

Glossy acrylic paint might help on corners, but for a single pen mark or stain I am not sure it will help unless is a perfect match up of the shade, otherwise would be noticeable and make it worse as the attempt to hide it.

Just like always what it works for someone it doesn't for others, because the condition of the leather, the type of stains and time they have been there is different, but I am definitely interested in learning what methods others used and helped, so thank you for this post :smile1:
 
#11,156
Almmac said:
The only edge work I've done has involved applying numerous coats of dura edge or edge kote. I am experimenting with edging now since I've had to start over on the Hampton bag as the dye-prep melted my edging job. I am thinking of mixing the dura edge with matte gel medium and seeing how that works. I'll keep you updated. As far as a good leather cement, Feibing's makes an excellent product. I've tested that, E6000, and Super Glue Vinyl and Leather Adhesive and it came in at the top. I was surprised! E6000 was so close that it was really a tie. I will probably use the two together when I apply a patch to a bag I'm working on. Still waiting on the patch material to come in. I don't know how Leather Cement would work as an edging material but it's worth a shot. The leather cement is very thin so I don't think it will help with building up quickly as you are wanting to do.On the other hand, I can see the benefit of having a product that would be less visible (hide mistakes) to build up the area. You will still have to completely cover it with paint at the end though. You could do a test and put a bit of cement on a scrap of leather, let it dry, and then paint it to see what happens. I think matte gel medium is your best bet for building up quickly. It does shrink as it dries, so you may have to do a few coats but that is actually a good thing because it allows you to correct mistakes. It also dries slowly (overnight for first coat) which is another consideration. Good luck! Keep us posted!
Click to expand...

I want to revise my favorite leather adhesives. The Feibing's is still great for attaching leather to leather but I have found myself reaching for the Super Glue Vinyl and Leather Mender (SGVLM) over and over. The E6000 worked great on the samples but not so much in real life. I've applied the patch to the bag with the hole with SGVLM instead of E6000 even though I started off using E6000 but it never completely adhered to the purse. I am working on a vintage LV wallet that had come apart at the sides of the flap fold. Always testing, I used E6000 on one side and SGVLM on the other. Today the side with the SGVLM was great even though that was the side that had the most damage and uneven leather so it required a really good adhesive to pull the seams together evenly. I had already started to lose faith in the E6000 from the patch job so I used the SGVLM on the worst side of the wallet. The side that I used E6000 on was not being held together completely and I had to open up the repair, sand out all the E6000 and this time I used SGVLM. It seems to be doing great. I think I liked the E6000 initially because it is a thicker product but that seems to make it not sink in and grip the leather like SGVLM does. Just wanted to give a heads up in case anyone is thinking of buying a good leather adhesive.
For the patch job, I used suede elbow patches and the purse is unlined leather. I applied the patch to the interior of the purse which is rough leather with both Feibing's Leather Cement and SGVLM. For the wallet, the exterior is coated canvas and the interior is leather. The stitching that held the exterior and interior together has come apart so I used the SGVLM between the 2 parts. The wallet could still use some stitching for aesthetic purposes and to make me feel like it is a quality repair, not because the adhesive isn't holding - and that is the other good thing about SGVLM, it is flexible and can be penetrated after it dries unlike regular super glue.
 
Last edited:
#11,157
Almmac said:
I want to revise my favorite leather adhesives. The Feibing's is still great for attaching leather to leather but I have found myself reaching for the Super Glue Vinyl and Leather Mender (SGVLM) over and over. The E6000 worked great on the samples but not so much in real life. I've applied the patch to the bag with the hole with SGVLM instead of E6000 even though I started off using E6000 but it never completely adhered to the purse. I am working on a vintage LV wallet that had come apart at the sides of the flap fold. Always testing, I used E6000 on one side and SGVLM on the other. Today the side with the SGVLM was great even though that was the side that had the most damage and uneven leather so it required a really good adhesive to pull the seams together evenly. I had already started to lose faith in the E6000 from the patch job so I used the SGVLM on the worst side of the wallet. The side that I used E6000 on was not being held together completely and I had to open up the repair, sand out all the E6000 and this time I used SGVLM. It seems to be doing great. I think I liked the E6000 initially because it is a thicker product but that seems to make it not sink in and grip the leather like SGVLM does. Just wanted to give a heads up in case anyone is thinking of buying a good leather adhesive.
For the patch job, I used suede elbow patches and the purse is unlined leather. I applied the patch to the interior of the purse which is rough leather with both Feibing's Leather Cement and SGVLM. For the wallet, the exterior is coated canvas and the interior is leather. The stitching that held the exterior and interior together has come apart so I used the SGVLM between the 2 parts. The wallet could still use some stitching for aesthetic purposes and to make me feel like it is a quality repair, not because the adhesive isn't holding - and that is the other good thing about SGVLM, it is flexible and can be penetrated after it dries unlike regular super glue.
Click to expand...

Thank you! I've never heard about SGVLM. It's information like this that makes this forum so great. :urock:
 
#11,159
Good evening!! What are the prevailing thoughts on dunking patent? The removable shoulder strap on one of my totes needs flattening. I want to dunk it then weight it, but I'm not sure if that's the right thing for patent.
 
#11,160
soozlz said:
Good evening!! What are the prevailing thoughts on dunking patent? The removable shoulder strap on one of my totes needs flattening. I want to dunk it then weight it, but I'm not sure if that's the right thing for patent.
Click to expand...

I didn't dunk all patent leather bag, however, I dunked a fabric bag with patent handles, twice. It went quite uneventful.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top