Coach Rehab and Rescue Club

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I documented my Kooba dye over in the Kooba forum (that's where that reference list came from) but I've been looking for a trashed Coach to dye. Looking at your pics really makes me want to do it!

I've only used Fiebings and Edge Kote so sorry I'm not much help with your other questions. Like Whateve I am too impatient for endless layers of edge kote and instead tinted some much thicker Liquitex and painted it with edge kote once it dried.

You have a good perspective about being flexible and seeing what works so keep at it!

I am looking it up now and I'll order the Liquitex from Amazon. I don't feel like I'm getting anywhere with the Dura Edge and the Edge Kote is the wrong color. I've already ordered a bottle of dark brown but I may return it if I don't need it. Did you just fill in cracks and bare spots like I am doing or did you completely strip all the old sealant off first?
 
I documented my Kooba dye over in the Kooba forum (that's where that reference list came from) but I've been looking for a trashed Coach to dye. Looking at your pics really makes me want to do it!

I've only used Fiebings and Edge Kote so sorry I'm not much help with your other questions. Like Whateve I am too impatient for endless layers of edge kote and instead tinted some much thicker Liquitex and painted it with edge kote once it dried.

You have a good perspective about being flexible and seeing what works so keep at it!

The bag I'm working on is truly an experiment to see what works and what doesn't as well as my capabilities. I need to be patient this next go round and wait for everything to arrive. I thought the 1 kit of Tarrago would be enough but was sadly mistaken. I had been wanting to do this for awhile and just wanted to jump right in when the first kit arrived. I saw from what you did with your bag that sometimes you just have to be patient. I am curious about where you used the Liquitex because I didn't see any damage to the edging on your bag. Did you go over all the edges with it after the dye job? I'm glad that I'm starting over in a way because I really want to do everything right and not cut corners. I was worried about using the spirit based dye because the leather becomes so dry but I like your recommendation to condition after dyeing but before using resolene. I will do that too! I hope mine turns out half as well.Great job and great post! Thank you! I will definitely be referring back to it during my purse dyeing adventure.
 
The bag I'm working on is truly an experiment to see what works and what doesn't as well as my capabilities. I need to be patient this next go round and wait for everything to arrive. I thought the 1 kit of Tarrago would be enough but was sadly mistaken. I had been wanting to do this for awhile and just wanted to jump right in when the first kit arrived. I saw from what you did with your bag that sometimes you just have to be patient. I am curious about where you used the Liquitex because I didn't see any damage to the edging on your bag. Did you go over all the edges with it after the dye job? I'm glad that I'm starting over in a way because I really want to do everything right and not cut corners. I was worried about using the spirit based dye because the leather becomes so dry but I like your recommendation to condition after dyeing but before using resolene. I will do that too! I hope mine turns out half as well.Great job and great post! Thank you! I will definitely be referring back to it during my purse dyeing adventure.

Also, which Liquitex product did you use? I'm looking on Amazon right now and there are several different options. Thanks again!
 
Also, which Liquitex product did you use? I'm looking on Amazon right now and there are several different options. Thanks again!

You're right - the Kooba didn't need edging repairs. On a few others, I've tinted liquitex matte gel medium with Edge Kote and done piping and one edging repair with good results (thank you Joodlz for the idea!). Many others including longtime expert Whateve, use 'puffy', dimensional fabric paint or leather cement and then paint over it (or tint it) with great success. Same principles - getting something thicker, flexible but still sandable and faster than endless thin layers of Edge Kote. I just tried to fill cracks unless they're huge.

Do a few quick searches on these methods to compare esp. since I'm a noob! I know you can get Liquitex and maybe dimensional paint and leather cement at Joann's or similar.

p.s. I read the factory uses special heat sealing process to apply edging so don't beat yourself up if yours isn't perfect.
 
You can use anything that is safe for fabric. There are so many more things that will work on fabric that won't work on leather. You'll just have to experiment to see what works. I had a canvas purse that kept getting denim transfer even though I sprayed it with Shining Monkey. After every time I carried it, I had to scrub it. The stains came out but the fabric was textured and the scrubbing started making it look a bit ragged. I ended up selling the bag as I couldn't stand carrying it knowing it was just going to get stained again and again.

OK, I was not sure if because of whatever treatment there is on the canvas, I needed to be careful, but if I can just clean I will try to see what works and update, in case that helps someone else.

About the bottom leather with the water ring, I get it wet all over? Will it come out that way?

Thanks again.
 
For those of you who are mastering their edge finishing skills, here's another thing to watch - a short video from Tandy Leather website. Some of the stuff is irrelevant, but when I saw how fast and easy the guy drew the perfect Edge Kote line with a dauber, I was like: "No way I would ever be able to get the same result!" And my husband said: "Well, he's probably been doing it for 50 years or so. Than means you have something to look forward to." As a side note, I read on some leather forum people have been complaining about these daubers absorbing too much of the product. I've only tried using a paintbrush, so I have no opinion on that. But doing it with a brush is sure a long long process... http://www.tandyleather.com/en/product/fiebing-s-edge-kote?sSearch=edge%20kote
 
Interesting development:
I feel like Edge Kote is a thicker heavier duty product. I can not get it completely off the paintbrush... which means it will stick to the purse better too. The problem is that while both products are labeled as "brown" the Dura Edge is more of a dark brown (the shade I need) while the Edge Kote is more of a medium brown. The back and front have very little of the Edge Kote and the sides have a full coat (See pics). I suppose I can continue to layer and just do the finishing layer with the Dura Edge or I can order the Edge Kote in dark brown and wait... not really my strong suit.
The best laid plans and all... fortunately I'm more a fly by the seat of my pants kind of girl.:wlae: I may order the Edge Kote in dark brown but I will probably just use what I have for now. The Edge Kote really did a great job of filling in the cracks and though it still needs a few coats, I think there is a good smooth line forming for me to work with.

Update on edging:
Thanks to Aggiek I decided to try using something similar to the tool from the Coach site. I settled on a fancy toothpick with grooves at the top (see pic). The can of Redi-Wipes is also a good idea for catching mishaps though there were surprisingly few using the toothpick. The edging just slides on in a dome shape without running. Amazing! Most of the cracks have been filled and I still need to add additional coats to the thin areas and a few pits but I am happy with this method and the Dura Edge is working now! I don't think I have enough cracks and bare places now to warrant using a gel medium but I will order some for future projects. I do have a cream wallet with some edging issues so I will try the gel medium for that. Speaking of gel medium, I looked through my available fillers in my repair kit and came across E6000 industrial strength adhesive. I thought about trying that but changed my mind as I've not seen anyone mention it and I've never even opened the bottle so I don't know how it will work out. I may test that on the wallet. Anyway, I just wanted to thank AggieK and whateve, who mentioned using a nail, for the inspiration. I feel like things may be getting back on track. In the last pic you can see the edge that had been completely stripped of edging. You can also see the amount of sanding I've done. I'm just glad that I am tackling the edging before I REALLY start on the dye job. I would have been very sad to see all the hard work go to waste.
 

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For those of you who are mastering their edge finishing skills, here's another thing to watch - a short video from Tandy Leather website. Some of the stuff is irrelevant, but when I saw how fast and easy the guy drew the perfect Edge Kote line with a dauber, I was like: "No way I would ever be able to get the same result!" And my husband said: "Well, he's probably been doing it for 50 years or so. Than means you have something to look forward to." As a side note, I read on some leather forum people have been complaining about these daubers absorbing too much of the product. I've only tried using a paintbrush, so I have no opinion on that. But doing it with a brush is sure a long long process... http://www.tandyleather.com/en/product/fiebing-s-edge-kote?sSearch=edge%20kote

Hi catthecurious, this was the video I watched that inspired me to use the wool dauber when I first started my edging project. The Dura Edge just ran down the outside of the purse even though I wiped the dauber and just quickly swiped over the edge like he does. The paintbrush seems to apply the product too thinly. The toothpick has worked the best so far and applies the product thickly enough to make a difference. I wish I had that guy's skills though. It may be that he is using new unfinished leather and that he beveled the surface too. I don't know. Thanks for the input! :)
 
Update on edging:
Thanks to Aggiek I decided to try using something similar to the tool from the Coach site. I settled on a fancy toothpick with grooves at the top (see pic). The can of Redi-Wipes is also a good idea for catching mishaps though there were surprisingly few using the toothpick. The edging just slides on in a dome shape without running. Amazing! Most of the cracks have been filled and I still need to add additional coats to the thin areas and a few pits but I am happy with this method and the Dura Edge is working now! I don't think I have enough cracks and bare places now to warrant using a gel medium but I will order some for future projects. I do have a cream wallet with some edging issues so I will try the gel medium for that. Speaking of gel medium, I looked through my available fillers in my repair kit and came across E6000 industrial strength adhesive. I thought about trying that but changed my mind as I've not seen anyone mention it and I've never even opened the bottle so I don't know how it will work out. I may test that on the wallet. Anyway, I just wanted to thank AggieK and whateve, who mentioned using a nail, for the inspiration. I feel like things may be getting back on track. In the last pic you can see the edge that had been completely stripped of edging. You can also see the amount of sanding I've done. I'm just glad that I am tackling the edging before I REALLY start on the dye job. I would have been very sad to see all the hard work go to waste.

Brilliant! E6000 doesn't sand nicely like the other products discussed but I use it to glue together two-layer hang tags that have come apart.
 
For those of you who are mastering their edge finishing skills, here's another thing to watch - a short video from Tandy Leather website. Some of the stuff is irrelevant, but when I saw how fast and easy the guy drew the perfect Edge Kote line with a dauber, I was like: "No way I would ever be able to get the same result!" And my husband said: "Well, he's probably been doing it for 50 years or so. Than means you have something to look forward to." As a side note, I read on some leather forum people have been complaining about these daubers absorbing too much of the product. I've only tried using a paintbrush, so I have no opinion on that. But doing it with a brush is sure a long long process... http://www.tandyleather.com/en/product/fiebing-s-edge-kote?sSearch=edge%20kote

Cool - thank you! Might give the dauber another chance b/ c I agree that the artist brush is tedious. I will definitely try his process for sealing edges on my raw edged straps that even gotten 'hairy'. Thanks!
 
Update on edging:
Thanks to Aggiek I decided to try using something similar to the tool from the Coach site. I settled on a fancy toothpick with grooves at the top (see pic). The can of Redi-Wipes is also a good idea for catching mishaps though there were surprisingly few using the toothpick. The edging just slides on in a dome shape without running. Amazing! Most of the cracks have been filled and I still need to add additional coats to the thin areas and a few pits but I am happy with this method and the Dura Edge is working now! I don't think I have enough cracks and bare places now to warrant using a gel medium but I will order some for future projects. I do have a cream wallet with some edging issues so I will try the gel medium for that.

Almmac, I like your idea with using the grooved toothpick on edges. Thanks for sharing, I'm going to try it as I've never had a patience to finish the edges on a small signature bag I've been working on. As for whipping it off, since I won't have a luxury to cover my mess by dyeing the whole bag, I covered as much of it as could with a plastic bag and painters tape and try being very careful because I remember Debi Nemetz mentioning in her video Edge Kote is impossible to get rid of if you drop it on the leather. But in that video she says she put did 8 (!) layers of Edge Kote on that strap's edges and if not the need to return the bag to its owner, she could just keep going. I'm sure 8+ coats put with the artist brush look nice, but if there's a way to do it with less effort, I'd sure opt for that!
 
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Almmac, I like your idea with using the grooved toothpick on edges. Thanks for sharing, I'm going to try it as I've never had a patience to finish the edges on a small signature bag I've been working on. As for whipping it off, since I won't have a luxury to cover my mess by dyeing the whole bag, I covered as much of it as could with a plastic bag and painters tape and try being very careful because I remember Debi Nemetz mentioning in her video Edge Kote is impossible to get rid of if you drop it on the leather. But in that video she says she put did 8 (!) layers of Edge Kote on that strap's edges and if not the need to return the bag to its owner, she could just keep going. I'm sure 8+ coats put with the artist brush look nice, but if there's a way to do it with less effort, I'd sure opt for that!

Hi, I don't think the toothpick has to be grooved. I've started using a regular toothpick and it works just as well. The toothpick helps in the application because it causes surface tension (same thing that makes water droplets) and it will just cling to the top of the bag. It will look great wet but when it dries, it shrinks and you will see the depressions and have to do another coat. I don't know how long this will go on. I'm applying 2 or 3 coats per day. I'm past 8 coats at this point! As to getting the Edge Kote off, if you wipe it off while it is still wet ASAP, it comes off. If you let it dry it has to be sanded off. I also lightly buff the edge with a nail buffer on the fine grit side (just enough to take away the shine) between coats. Let me know how your edging project goes and if you pick up any tricks or find a better way to do it. :)
 
Hi, I don't think the toothpick has to be grooved. I've started using a regular toothpick and it works just as well. The toothpick helps in the application because it causes surface tension (same thing that makes water droplets) and it will just cling to the top of the bag. It will look great wet but when it dries, it shrinks and you will see the depressions and have to do another coat. I don't know how long this will go on. I'm applying 2 or 3 coats per day. I'm past 8 coats at this point! As to getting the Edge Kote off, if you wipe it off while it is still wet ASAP, it comes off. If you let it dry it has to be sanded off. I also lightly buff the edge with a nail buffer on the fine grit side (just enough to take away the shine) between coats. Let me know how your edging project goes and if you pick up any tricks or find a better way to do it. :)

I sure will. Thanks again for the ideas!
 
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