Here's a post (recently) by Whateve about the anchors. Full of info. https://forum.purseblog.com/threads/coach-rehab-and-rescue-club.833400/post-36150867
Coach Rehab and Rescue Club
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I found more. https://forum.purseblog.com/threads/authenticate-this-coach.818914/post-25938964 Tenny (her family owned those companies)... wrote this in 2013:
re: THE ANCHOR
Ive been meaning to post about the anchor that appears on some older Coach hardware. I have a pretty good idea why its there. Heres my theory:
There was a CT manufacturing company that long held a trademark on that anchor mark. In 1998, that company was absorbed into a much larger conglomerate that no longer manufactures hardware (but instead imports it.) I imagine that at one time, before that 1998 date, Coach was purchasing some of its hardware from them.
The company started out in the early 1800s making wire products. As ownership changed and more firms were acquired, they branched out into all sorts of other production. In 1848, when incorporated as North & Judd, they were known for equestrian hardware and bits and spurs, as well as buckles and trouser clips. (Just as an aside: both the Norths and the Judds were ancestors on my fathers side of the family.)
The Civil War brought the firm great prosperity, as they began producing more military hardware and the like for the war effort. Over the years that followed, they added all sorts of other products, too, mostly metal, much of it brass, and all made in CT.
In the 1950s, the company acquired a firm called Wilcox-Crittenden that made marine hardware (e.g. clips and swivels used on sails for boats, and things like that.)
You might note how similar the swivel clips used on Coach bags are to the halyard clips and swivel-snaplinks found on the rigging on sailboats. I dont think this is a coincidence.
My theory is that Coach bought hardware from them at some point in the years after the Wilcox-Crittenden acquisition. The hardware made by North & Judd and their successors carried that anchor mark up until the sale in 1998. Since Coach did not manufacture its own hardware, they had to purchase it from firms that did. If Coach purchased some of its hardware from them, it only makes sense that the anchor would appear on the hardware on certain Coach bags.
As I said, it's a theory, but I think I'm on the right track here.
Eager to work on this baby! Swinger! (Bag is not in hand yet.)
I've successfully used Leather CPR condidtioner on several 65th Anniversary bags.
Museum bag is done. Sharing some pics. Dunk, Cpr, blackrock, brass polish...some brown edgekote along the strap.
Hi Connie
How long does it take you to complete a restoration on a bag like this or the museum bag you have shown today? I don't mean the exact hours you have worked on it, but the period of time start to finish that you actively do something to it, including the wait time particular steps might take eg day 1 might be a wash, it dries for 3 days, 1 day condition leave to dry, another day condition and so on.
I expect you probably have more than one bag in restoration at any time and from what I have seen, some have had very creative makeovers. I understand that the renovation/restoration is your hobby, but if I found a bag like this and wanted to use it, I'm curious as to how long might I have to wait from getting it delivered to wearing it?
Every bag is a case by case deal. Really, from the time of dunk and ready to wear could be just a few days. For me it's generally a couple weeks. I go heavy on the dry time! Because I've had some unfortunate episodes of putting a bag away too soon and finding mold later. It really depends how much you need to do. If a bag is in great condition, just some leather cpr, and you're good to wear it. I like to find very sad, abused bags and see what I can do to improve them. And you're right. I'm currently working on at least ten bags simultaneously. I just finished another one today. A limited edition hobo pouch type thing and I'm going to share pictures in a moment.
9477 is done. Lamb nappa. Really gorgeous bag. Sharing some pics. And the repair on the piping.
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Beautiful! Can almost feel how smooshy that nappa leather is. I’ve never seen that double numbering, even on bags I understood to be ltd edition. Did you thrift this one?
No, I got it online, Mercari. Only 600 were made, and this one is number 428. It's super rare! Cost $398 in 2003.
I am reviving this old post because it contains information from several manufacturers regarding the use of various leather conditioners on Nubuck Leather. I am writing to ask if anyone has tried Leather CPR on Nubuck? Or are there any other products that have worked well for you on Nubuck bags? Thanks!
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I think people have. In my opinion it should be treated like suede, so no conditioner, just brushing. Maybe it if is really dry, condition then bathe, but I've never tried it.
Question - Are hangtags on vintage Equestrians just regular double-sided 90s hangtags? It looks like it in the catalog, but the leather of my Equestrian Small Flap is so much heavier and smoother than, say, a Duffle Sac of the same era, I thought to ask the group if the hangtags are different too. Thanks for input!
ETA: Looking to replace Small Flap’s missing tag. 🤓
ETA: Looking to replace Small Flap’s missing tag. 🤓
One more question while I have you… As the archives show, we have some talented rehabbers who fairly regularly wash bags in the washing machine. I haven’t had the nerve to try it yet. My question for you machine-washers is this — what makes you decide to go machine vs dunk (or to definitely not go machine!)? Thanks!
They should be the same. Can we see a photo?