Coach Rehab and Rescue Club

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Hi, It's been a minute. HNY
Finally got back to working on my first rehab(s). After dunking, lots of CPR and BR, the leather came out beautifully. Now I am working the hardware and "fraying" leather edges especially where the zipper is sewn on. For the edges I found @LunaSilver helpful post and have the Tokonole in my Amazon cart. For the hardware, I used Wizards and I am not loving how some of it came out, especially the Turnlock plate (not sure of correct name). I see several people including Debbie Baros using a nail file or very fine steel wool, which I'd like to try. BUT does this only work on solid brass? And if that is the case, is there a good way to be sure that I have solid brass. I tried some gentle sanding on the backside of the washer that goes inside and I definitely see that it is coated. But I am thinking the actual turnlock may be brass. Before I do something stupid, would love your experienced opinions. Thank in advance.

Looking forward to finally having something to share.
Some of the NYC bags have solid brass hardware. Most of the later bags, with the exception of the Dakotas and a few others, have plated brass. I've used very fine steel wool on all hardware. I wouldn't use a nail file. I would imagine that would make scratch marks. You might just need to change your brass polish. There are brands that work really well without using abrasives.
 
Hi, It's been a minute. HNY
Finally got back to working on my first rehab(s). After dunking, lots of CPR and BR, the leather came out beautifully. Now I am working the hardware and "fraying" leather edges especially where the zipper is sewn on. For the edges I found @LunaSilver helpful post and have the Tokonole in my Amazon cart. For the hardware, I used Wizards and I am not loving how some of it came out, especially the Turnlock plate (not sure of correct name). I see several people including Debbie Baros using a nail file or very fine steel wool, which I'd like to try. BUT does this only work on solid brass? And if that is the case, is there a good way to be sure that I have solid brass. I tried some gentle sanding on the backside of the washer that goes inside and I definitely see that it is coated. But I am thinking the actual turnlock may be brass. Before I do something stupid, would love your experienced opinions. Thank in advance.

Looking forward to finally having something to share.
Some of the NYC bags have solid brass hardware. Most of the later bags, with the exception of the Dakotas and a few others, have plated brass. I've used very fine steel wool on all hardware. I wouldn't use a nail file. I would imagine that would make scratch marks. You might just need to change your brass polish. There are brands that work really well without using abrasives.

You can test whether or not the brass is solid or plated with a magnet, magnet sticks, its plated, magnet doesn’t stick its solid brass. If your brass is solid, and removable, or even the clips on the end of straps, I’ve put them in a shallow bowl with warm vinegar for about 15-20 minutes, then removed, rinsed and polished. Sometimes this is all you need. If it’s stubborn, then I’ll use Barkeepers Friend with a soft toothbrush. You could also try very fine grit wet/dry sandpaper (800 grit or higher). Hope this helps:smile:
 
hi all,
i bought a non-returnable vintage coach bag. it is in very bad condition. It is natural cowhide leather.
i have used the saddle soap cleaning it and applied mink oil on it. the stains are too much for me. and the cracks are not acceptable for me.
what can i do with it? T_T
is it ok to dye it? i have never dyed a bag.
thank you for any advice in advance!

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Well, that’s a little more involved. When you manipulate the metal by bending or hammering you actually make it harder to bend. When making jewellery, you would heat the metal with a torch until red, clean it, then continue working. The heating softens it. In this case it would only be advisable if it were solid brass. Plating would be damaged by heating. I would just try to gently reshape using pliers. Try not to bend it back and forth too much. Try to avoid too much hammering. The metal could get brittle and break. I know this all sounds very scary if you’ve never done it before but keep in mind, the metal was probably only bent before when the bag was assembled. I just wanted to give you a heads up so you could avoid trouble.
Thanks for this. I think I need to get a professional to do the bending. I don’t want to ruin it. I’ve bathed her and conditioned but I’ve noticed this mark that hasn’t budged. Have you ever seen this before?D230772B-66AF-4DA9-AFD3-C575D138E084.jpeg
 
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The stains on the strap are likely permanent. Where there are missing pieces of edging on the strap, I think you should remove it all and find new edging to sew on. The holes in the piping on the bag are fairly easy to fix with leather glue and fabric puff paint. I've done it several times. I think there are pictures somewhere in this thread of the work I've done.

I have the torn piping on my mahog Rambler. I may muster up the wherewithal for this!
 
hi all,
i bought a non-returnable vintage coach bag. it is in very bad condition. It is natural cowhide leather.
i have used the saddle soap cleaning it and applied mink oil on it. the stains are too much for me. and the cracks are not acceptable for me.
what can i do with it? T_T
is it ok to dye it? i have never dyed a bag.
thank you for any advice in advance!

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Hi and welcome. That leather is in rough shape especially where it cracked. I haven't dyed any bags (yet). I do know from others who have dyed bags, it really helps for the leather to be in the best condition possible. So I am guessing it will be a tall order to dye.

Hang on for other opinions. It may take a while for an answer, many here are like me that do deep cleaning and reconditioning of Coach bags, a little older than this, mostly with the unlined leather interior and a little color touch up. But there are a few who dye entire bags.
 
Hi and welcome. That leather is in rough shape especially where it cracked. I haven't dyed any bags (yet). I do know from others who have dyed bags, it really helps for the leather to be in the best condition possible. So I am guessing it will be a tall order to dye.

Hang on for other opinions. It may take a while for an answer, many here are like me that do deep cleaning and reconditioning of Coach bags, a little older than this, mostly with the unlined leather interior and a little color touch up. But there are a few who dye entire bags.
Thanks for your advice.And i'll keep waiting for other answers.
How do you know about the natural cowhide leather? Is it good to soak it in soap water? I wasn't brave enough to soak it yet.
 
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hi all,
i bought a non-returnable vintage coach bag. it is in very bad condition. It is natural cowhide leather.
i have used the saddle soap cleaning it and applied mink oil on it. the stains are too much for me. and the cracks are not acceptable for me.
what can i do with it? T_T
is it ok to dye it? i have never dyed a bag.
thank you for any advice in advance!

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Dyeing isn't going to fix the cracking. You could try filling in the cracks with leather cement. You can dye the bag. I am in the process of dyeing a similar bag with Angelus leather dye.

I'm pretty sure I washed mine.
 
Dyeing isn't going to fix the cracking. You could try filling in the cracks with leather cement. You can dye the bag. I am in the process of dyeing a similar bag with Angelus leather dye.

I'm pretty sure I washed mine.
thank you for your experience.
My meaning is that if I keep the original color, I will have no means to fill the cracks and cover them with color, for it looking strange on vechetta leather. if i dye the bag I could fill the cracks and cover them with same color. then nobody will see the cracks.
now i am getting myself ready to dye it by looking for some tutorial first.
thanks again.
 
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Thanks for your advice.And i'll keep waiting for other answers.
How do you know about the natural cowhide leather? Is it good to soak it in soap water? I wasn't brave enough to soak it yet.
I see whateve has responded so that is great.
I re-read the Creed and further on it does say full-grain leather. So cowhide and full-grain leather in Coach terms and regarding leather used for handbags, indicate the entire hide/piece of leather was used. In older Coach bags, the give-away is the suede interior. This bag is in the timeframe, in my opinion, that Coach began to move away from using the entire hide and started more processing of the leather. I am glad you included the Creed, as it indicates it is full-grain leather. Soaking bags made from the entire hide/gull grain leather (as opposed to using a layer of it) can enhance the cleaning, conditioning process. I hope this isn't too confusing. It's just background info.
 
hi all,
i bought a non-returnable vintage coach bag. it is in very bad condition. It is natural cowhide leather.
i have used the saddle soap cleaning it and applied mink oil on it. the stains are too much for me. and the cracks are not acceptable for me.
what can i do with it? T_T
is it ok to dye it? i have never dyed a bag.
thank you for any advice in advance!

View attachment 5291824

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Those spots look like mold measles. I don’t know much about them except they need to be addressed because they can damage the leather. I don’t think the spots can be eliminated but you might be able to minimize them. Someone who has experience with mold measles would better be able to help.
 
Those spots look like mold measles. I don’t know much about them except they need to be addressed because they can damage the leather. I don’t think the spots can be eliminated but you might be able to minimize them. Someone who has experience with mold measles would better be able to help.
I agree. You need to make sure the mold is dead before proceeding. Wiping down with vinegar would be a good idea. The spots won't go away.
 
Hi, It's been a minute. HNY
Finally got back to working on my first rehab(s). After dunking, lots of CPR and BR, the leather came out beautifully. Now I am working the hardware and "fraying" leather edges especially where the zipper is sewn on. For the edges I found @LunaSilver helpful post and have the Tokonole in my Amazon cart. For the hardware, I used Wizards and I am not loving how some of it came out, especially the Turnlock plate (not sure of correct name). I see several people including Debbie Baros using a nail file or very fine steel wool, which I'd like to try. BUT does this only work on solid brass? And if that is the case, is there a good way to be sure that I have solid brass. I tried some gentle sanding on the backside of the washer that goes inside and I definitely see that it is coated. But I am thinking the actual turnlock may be brass. Before I do something stupid, would love your experienced opinions. Thank in advance.

Looking forward to finally having something to share.
I love seeing what other people have accomplished, I'm looking forward to what you have done! :)
 
My small Courier has turned out fantastic! The original strap is too short for a crossbody and there's no way I'm going to find that match, so I picked up a #9816 (great condition but it stinks like cigarettes!!!) in mahogany for $30. I looked at replacement straps alone and they were outrageously priced!

I love the contrast the strap brings. It looks somewhat goofy in pics but in person, it's a gorgeous compliment!

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