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Mocha sounds about right, from what I've seen in pics and on eBay. I couldn't remember what it was called. Thank you!

I will go ahead and order the Obenauf Oil, I want to give it a try. I should have some on hand any way.

Thank you so much!
Obenauf has two different products - maybe more, but two common ones - Obenauf Oil and Obenauf LP (leather preservative) Heavy Duty. The LP is like a thick greasy paste and I don't think it would be good for moisturizing. I don't have the oil, but my understanding is it's similar to Leather Therapy that I use often. I like its consistency less than the CPR, but for me it's always worked best for older, very dry and beat-up bags. Sometimes I use the LT on its own, sometimes I alternate it with the CPR - on especially stubbornly dry leather. The LT is quite expensive, it was $28 for 16 oz bottle 4 or 5 years ago, but I've used it a lot and still have about 1/4 of a bottle. It's very concentrated.
 
Rehab experts, what is your opinion on rehabbing green colors? I am considering getting a bottle or forest green color next. Do they handle dunking well?

I've never had a problem with them.

I did dunk green vintage bags twice... It was quite uneventful - the bleeding was minimal, and the wet leather didn't leave any traces on the towels while drying. It basically went just like with any neutral color. Love green bags because they are not statement pieces like the red ones yet they stand out just enough to spice things up a bit!

I've dunked and rehabbed green bags without problems, the link below shows before and after pics of a forest green bag that I bathed and rehabbed.
https://forum.purseblog.com/threads...g-that-shouldnt-get-wet.689911/#post-19266669
 
So the bag is damp dry now and it is feeling very dry! I only have leather CPR. But I think it needs a more intense conditioner. I am not sure if I can find leather honey locally today but I'm thinking of soaking the bag in it.

The bag looked even when it was wet. As it's drying, the splotches are coming back. IMG_20190325_085713038.jpeg
 
Thank you! It helps to hear it works with time. I tried baking soda and then coffee in a tobacco scented lining, but only for a week each before I moved on to vinegar evaporating in sun and wind. (I guess I've done a mini-rehab.) ;) I didn't think about the 3rd hand smoke. Do you know if getting the odor out means all of the toxins have been removed too? I had the bag airing outside and had a surprise rain tonight; so the bag is now officially mine!
I once had a challenge of removing the tobacco smoke smell from a lined bag I didn't want to wash. I'm not sure if the bag was exposed to the smoke for a long time as the smell was very much noticeable, but I was able to remove it relatively easy. It just took some persistence and time... I kept it open in a tied up large trash bag with an open shallow container of baking soda inside the bag (hope it makes sense, lol!). I didn't use a lot of soda at once as I replaced it with fresh often. And I did that for as long as I could trace the odor.
Guess you've gotten advice from so many people by now, you'd need a few stinky bags to try them all, lol!
 
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So the bag is damp dry now and it is feeling very dry! I only have leather CPR. But I think it needs a more intense conditioner. I am not sure if I can find leather honey locally today but I'm thinking of soaking the bag in it.

The bag looked even when it was wet. As it's drying, the splotches are coming back. View attachment 4382961

Your best option may be to dye this bag black - sorry!
 
So the bag is damp dry now and it is feeling very dry! I only have leather CPR. But I think it needs a more intense conditioner. I am not sure if I can find leather honey locally today but I'm thinking of soaking the bag in it.

The bag looked even when it was wet. As it's drying, the splotches are coming back. View attachment 4382961
I seriously wonder what happened to this bag. I doubt any kind of conditioner is going to help it really, at least not with the appearance of the color.
 
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I seriously wonder what happened to this bag. I doubt any kind of conditioner is going to help it really, at least not with the appearance of the color.
Your best option may be to dye this bag black - sorry!
Yes, unfortunately it seems like dying is the best option for this. I am just trying to get the leather healthier for now.
 
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So the bag is damp dry now and it is feeling very dry! I only have leather CPR. But I think it needs a more intense conditioner. I am not sure if I can find leather honey locally today but I'm thinking of soaking the bag in it.

The bag looked even when it was wet. As it's drying, the splotches are coming back. View attachment 4382961
I just posted a couple of hours ago that I use Leather Therapy a lot for older thirsty bags. It's pretty liquid-y and feels oily while you're spreading it, but dry leather soaks it in fast and no trace is left afterwards. Some bags require 4, even 5 layers added over 3-4 days.
 
I just posted a couple of hours ago that I use Leather Therapy a lot for older thirsty bags. It's pretty liquid-y and feels oily while you're spreading it, but dry leather soaks it in fast and no trace is left afterwards. Some bags require 4, even 5 layers added over 3-4 days.
Thanks. I saw that! I thought I had one and am looking for it.

ETA: found it! Should I wait for the CPR to dry or apply on top it? It's probably been about an hour since I applied the CPR.
 
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So the bag is damp dry now and it is feeling very dry! I only have leather CPR. But I think it needs a more intense conditioner. I am not sure if I can find leather honey locally today but I'm thinking of soaking the bag in it.

The bag looked even when it was wet. As it's drying, the splotches are coming back. View attachment 4382961
It kind of looks like camouflage.
 
I once had a challenge of removing the tobacco smoke smell from a lined bag I didn't want to wash. I'm not sure if the bag was exposed to the smoke for a long time as the smell was very much noticeable, but I was able to remove it relatively easy. It just took some persistence and time... I kept it open in a tied up large trash bag with an open shallow container of baking soda inside the bag (hope it makes sense, lol!). I didn't use a lot of soda at once as I replaced it with fresh often. And I did that for as long as I could trace the odor.
Guess you've gotten advice from so many people by now, you'd need a few stinky bags to try them all, lol!
:lol: No more stinky bags please!! Thank you!

While searching the forum, I read some posts from smokers who said it hurts them to hear comments about the odor etc. I hope no one is hurt by the mission to remove the cigarette smoke. I would want to remove any strong odor, even if an entire bottle of beautiful perfume had been poured inside the bag. Hugs to all smokers! :hugs:
 
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So the bag is damp dry now and it is feeling very dry! I only have leather CPR. But I think it needs a more intense conditioner. I am not sure if I can find leather honey locally today but I'm thinking of soaking the bag in it.

The bag looked even when it was wet. As it's drying, the splotches are coming back. View attachment 4382961
I can't wait to see how it ends up! I'm rooting for you.
 
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I like & use both Obenauf’s Oil & LP. They have made impressive improvements in leather texture & evening color in some instances where washing & other conditioners alone did not. Obenauf’s site suggests that Oil is for moderate conditions & LP for extreme. I interpret that for the condition of the bag I’m rehabbing not necessarily how or where I’ll be carrying it after.

I’ve found the Oil to be a great conditioner. If a bag warrants it, I typically use after Leather CPR. A favorite example was last year when I used it on a light (saddle) color vintage bag that needed serious help. It turned that leather from dry & suede-like back to soft & smooth. I wouldn’t have believed it if it hadn’t been with my own hands!

After other conditioners, I use LP (instead of or in line with Blackrock) as a final step. I find hand applying simple & I love the scent of it. I feel like it helps neutralize ‘old leather’ smells then fades.

While leather darkening is a concern with many products, so far, I haven’t had unfavorable experiences with Obenauf’s. I’ve learned not to panic after applying when leather can initially look very streaky/splotchy. Time is needed for products to absorb & ‘settle’.

*** My leather rehab expectations & experiences may vary from others’. ***

Obenauf’s website is pretty informative. Here’s some info from there:

_____
Leather Oil

* Restores dried & sun-faded leather
* Repels water, chemicals, manure acids, and salt
* Resists cracking, dry rot, scuffing, mold, mildew, and bacteria growth
* Applies easily with the lambs wool applicator or clean cloth
* Allows leather to breathe
* Ideal for "breaking-in" new boots
* Penetrates deeply into leather
* Can be buffed to shine or polished over
* Excellent for touch-ups between applications of Heavy Duty LP
* Contains no harmful petroleum, solvents, or paraffin

Obenauf's Leather Oil provides protection to your leather items subjected to the elements, especially when hot, dusty, and dry conditions are dehydrating your leathers. Our Leather Oil is your best preservative for:

* Work Boots, Dress Boots, & Leather Apparel
* Saddles & Tack
* Belts, Holsters, Scabbards, & Sheathes
* Vintage Leather Clothing
* Motorcycle & Automotive Leathers
* Leather Furniture
* Leather Athletic Gear
* And More!

_____
Heavy Duty LP

Our Heavy Duty Leather Preservative provides industrial strength protection to keep working leather looking like new as long as possible. Originally developed for the severe working conditions of the Wildland Firefighters and to provide the best waterproofing naturally! Heavy Duty LP repels water, preserves, restores, and conditions leather shoes, boots, waxed flesh leather, saddles, motorcycle leathers, tool pouches, athletic gear, and cotton oilskin dusters.

Benefits of use:
* Repels water, acids, petroleum, salt, and chemicals
* Restores dried & sun-faded leather
* Prevents dry rot
* Resists mold, mildew, and bacteria
* Resists scuffing, abrasion, stitch tear, and premature cracking in flex areas
* Odorless after applied (will not spook game)
* Contains no harmful petroleum, solvents, or paraffin

Features
* Three natural oils are suspended in Beeswax and Propolis creating a smooth cream. In the leather, these oils gradually seep out of the Beeswax/Propolis* Suspension Formula. If exposed to heat or flexing the oils are released faster so leather gets oiled when and where it needs it most instead of parched and cracked. This Beeswax/Propolis* Suspension Formula provides a time release lubrication to inner fibers, reinforcing the surface against scuffing and abrasions, while still allowing the leather to breathe.

*Propolis is an antibacterial tree resin that resists bacteria and mold. It is a barrier against body acids, salt, and caustic chemicals. Combined with beeswax it will repel water better and longer.

_____
DEALING WITH MOLD AND MILDEW ON LEATHER
Mild vinegar and water solution kills mold at the root. Once you have eliminated the mold, you need to immediately treat the article with Obenauf’s Leather Oil or LP to restore the natural oils. Obenauf’s Leather Oil and Heavy Duty LP have anti-bacterial properties that will provide protection from future mold and mildew problems. Dirty and damp leather will mold. Keep it clean and treated with a preservative and stored in ventilated dry areas.
 
I like & use both Obenauf’s Oil & LP. They have made impressive improvements in leather texture & evening color in some instances where washing & other conditioners alone did not. Obenauf’s site suggests that Oil is for moderate conditions & LP for extreme. I interpret that for the condition of the bag I’m rehabbing not necessarily how or where I’ll be carrying it after.

I’ve found the Oil to be a great conditioner. If a bag warrants it, I typically use after Leather CPR. A favorite example was last year when I used it on a light (saddle) color vintage bag that needed serious help. It turned that leather from dry & suede-like back to soft & smooth. I wouldn’t have believed it if it hadn’t been with my own hands!

After other conditioners, I use LP (instead of or in line with Blackrock) as a final step. I find hand applying simple & I love the scent of it. I feel like it helps neutralize ‘old leather’ smells then fades.

While leather darkening is a concern with many products, so far, I haven’t had unfavorable experiences with Obenauf’s. I’ve learned not to panic after applying when leather can initially look very streaky/splotchy. Time is needed for products to absorb & ‘settle’.

*** My leather rehab expectations & experiences may vary from others’. ***

Obenauf’s website is pretty informative. Here’s some info from there:

_____
Leather Oil

* Restores dried & sun-faded leather
* Repels water, chemicals, manure acids, and salt
* Resists cracking, dry rot, scuffing, mold, mildew, and bacteria growth
* Applies easily with the lambs wool applicator or clean cloth
* Allows leather to breathe
* Ideal for "breaking-in" new boots
* Penetrates deeply into leather
* Can be buffed to shine or polished over
* Excellent for touch-ups between applications of Heavy Duty LP
* Contains no harmful petroleum, solvents, or paraffin

Obenauf's Leather Oil provides protection to your leather items subjected to the elements, especially when hot, dusty, and dry conditions are dehydrating your leathers. Our Leather Oil is your best preservative for:

* Work Boots, Dress Boots, & Leather Apparel
* Saddles & Tack
* Belts, Holsters, Scabbards, & Sheathes
* Vintage Leather Clothing
* Motorcycle & Automotive Leathers
* Leather Furniture
* Leather Athletic Gear
* And More!

_____
Heavy Duty LP

Our Heavy Duty Leather Preservative provides industrial strength protection to keep working leather looking like new as long as possible. Originally developed for the severe working conditions of the Wildland Firefighters and to provide the best waterproofing naturally! Heavy Duty LP repels water, preserves, restores, and conditions leather shoes, boots, waxed flesh leather, saddles, motorcycle leathers, tool pouches, athletic gear, and cotton oilskin dusters.

Benefits of use:
* Repels water, acids, petroleum, salt, and chemicals
* Restores dried & sun-faded leather
* Prevents dry rot
* Resists mold, mildew, and bacteria
* Resists scuffing, abrasion, stitch tear, and premature cracking in flex areas
* Odorless after applied (will not spook game)
* Contains no harmful petroleum, solvents, or paraffin

Features
* Three natural oils are suspended in Beeswax and Propolis creating a smooth cream. In the leather, these oils gradually seep out of the Beeswax/Propolis* Suspension Formula. If exposed to heat or flexing the oils are released faster so leather gets oiled when and where it needs it most instead of parched and cracked. This Beeswax/Propolis* Suspension Formula provides a time release lubrication to inner fibers, reinforcing the surface against scuffing and abrasions, while still allowing the leather to breathe.

*Propolis is an antibacterial tree resin that resists bacteria and mold. It is a barrier against body acids, salt, and caustic chemicals. Combined with beeswax it will repel water better and longer.

_____
DEALING WITH MOLD AND MILDEW ON LEATHER
Mild vinegar and water solution kills mold at the root. Once you have eliminated the mold, you need to immediately treat the article with Obenauf’s Leather Oil or LP to restore the natural oils. Obenauf’s Leather Oil and Heavy Duty LP have anti-bacterial properties that will provide protection from future mold and mildew problems. Dirty and damp leather will mold. Keep it clean and treated with a preservative and stored in ventilated dry areas.
Thank you for posting all of this! I'm saving it for future reference!
 
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