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Baby wipes can ruin leather. I'd recommend using a leather conditioner on the leather instead of a baby wipe. It was probably a reaction after you used the Apple Garde.

FYI - I've used Apple Garde and then used various leather products without any reaction.

Here's a demonstration of what baby wipes can do after a leather protection is used:


Very interesting video, thanks for that.

I noticed that the discoloration that appeared on the baby wipe side disappeared after he ran the dryer on it.
 
Yes very interesting and helpful. Hindsight and the damage is already done. The black marks don’t completely go away after they are dried, but are getting better with the leather CPR. Now I see slight yellowing where the black was, but with each application of the CPR it’s lessening. My husband says you can barely notice but, sorry to all the gentleman, but he’s a guy! He doesn’t notice, but ya women do, lol


Thanks for all of your help and lesson learned.
 
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Baby wipes can ruin leather. I'd recommend using a leather conditioner on the leather instead of a baby wipe. It was probably a reaction after you used the Apple Garde.

FYI - I've used Apple Garde and then used various leather products without any reaction.

Here's a demonstration of what baby wipes can do after a leather protection is used:


Thanks for this. I've never used baby wipes on my leather items.
 
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I am working on a Coach Rambler bag. I soaked it in water with Dawn and the water came out black. I am thinking dye or shoe polish. I've soaked it twice since then in water with Dawn. The water is still coming out pretty dark. Right now, I've got it in just plain water. Anybody else run into something similar?
 
...I thought I saw on this thread that Coach has stopped sending out free turnlocks as they want you to send the bag in for them to assess or something like that. It appears they still give out missing hangtags though? I have not tried either of these things yet.

I called Coach Customer Service yesterday because I need a new brass turnlock. I told the Service Rep that it was for a vintage bag, a Willis 9927. She immediately responded that "they cannot send a turnlock to customers, and that I would have to send the bag in for repair, and there would be a charge."

I told her that "I have gotten turnlock kits sent to me for free in the past" and I asked her to check. While I was on hold I pulled up the Coach.com page for Repairs and found the information about turnlocks below.

When she came back on the line she apologized and told me that she "had learned something new!" She said that because the Willis is an older, unlined bag they will send out a turnlock kit at no charge, that I can use to make the repair myself.

She took my information and I quickly received an email confirmation that the no charge turnlock kit has been ordered for me. Now I just have to wait.

So don't let them tell you that they don't provide free turnlocks any longer!

https://www.coach.com/repair-services.html
THE TURNLOCK CLOSURE ON MY HANDBAG NEEDS REPLACING. IS THAT SOMETHING I CAN DO MYSELF?
In many cases we can send you a new turnlock with instructions for replacement.
Please call 1-866-262-2440 or email [email protected] for more information.
 
I called Coach Customer Service yesterday because I need a new brass turnlock. I told the Service Rep that it was for a vintage bag, a Willis 9927. She immediately responded that "they cannot send a turnlock to customers, and that I would have to send the bag in for repair, and there would be a charge."

I told her that "I have gotten turnlock kits sent to me for free in the past" and I asked her to check. While I was on hold I pulled up the Coach.com page for Repairs and found the information about turnlocks below.

When she came back on the line she apologized and told me that she "had learned something new!" She said that because the Willis is an older, unlined bag they will send out a turnlock kit at no charge, that I can use to make the repair myself.

She took my information and I quickly received an email confirmation that the no charge turnlock kit has been ordered for me. Now I just have to wait.

So don't let them tell you that they don't provide free turnlocks any longer!

https://www.coach.com/repair-services.html
THE TURNLOCK CLOSURE ON MY HANDBAG NEEDS REPLACING. IS THAT SOMETHING I CAN DO MYSELF?
In many cases we can send you a new turnlock with instructions for replacement.
Please call 1-866-262-2440 or email [email protected] for more information.
Thank you for this info Katev! This is perfect for my Rambler. Hope it is not too difficult to do.
 
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Hello ladies, thanks to your helpful posts sharing ideas, techniques and products, I have learned a lot the last couple of years, enough to keep me going with simple rehabs without taking your time, but now I come hoping to get your input, as I am going to rehab a Cody bag, that I just had authenticated and learned of its "rare" classification.
My plan is to remove the debris from inside, unbuckle, dunk, let dry stuffed to maintain the shape, conditioner and buff, repeat conditioner/buff, etc... BUT

Now is where I need your opinions, this bag seems to be dry and on random spots shows some whitish areas as the one shown in the picture, I applied a bit on conditioner over one of those spots, and seems to improve but I am not sure if it could be mold. The bag has no odors at all, no verdigris either.

Awhile back I dunk a perfectly black bag, that afterwards when dry showed white spots that not even the acrylic paint with conditioner would cover, and I learned the hard way it was mold. I have been very apprehensive to dunk vintage bags since then.

Should I add vinegar to the dunking water, would that help...? If this is a rare bag for sure I do not want to ruin it.

Thanks in advance.

IMG_2409.jpeg IMG_2413.jpeg
 
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Hello ladies, thanks to your helpful posts sharing ideas, techniques and products, I have learned a lot the last couple of years, enough to keep me going with simple rehabs without taking your time, but now I come hoping to get your input, as I am going to rehab a Cody bag, that I just had authenticated and learned of its "rare" classification.
My plan is to remove the debris from inside, unbuckle, dunk, let dry stuffed to maintain the shape, conditioner and buff, repeat conditioner/buff, etc... BUT

Now is where I need your opinions, this bag seems to be dry and on random spots shows some whitish areas as the one shown in the picture, I applied a bit on conditioner over one of those spots, and seems to improve but I am not sure if it could be mold. The bag has no odors at all, no verdigris either.

Awhile back I dunk a perfectly black bag, that afterwards when dry showed white spots that not even the acrylic paint with conditioner would cover, and I learned the hard way it was mold. I have been very apprehensive to dunk vintage bags since then.

Should I add vinegar to the dunking water, would that help...? If this is a rare bag for sure I do not want to ruin it.

Thanks in advance.

View attachment 4316232 View attachment 4316233
I don't think that is mold. Usually mold has an odor. It won't hurt to add vinegar to the dunking water. There is another thing that causes white spots, called bloom.
 
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Making a Replacement Drawstring End Cap

This Lula's Legacy drawstring bag was missing one of the end caps on the drawstring (pictures 1,2).
1 missing end.JPG

2 missing end closeup.JPG

I wanted to try my hand at making a replacement. I made a "proof of concept" test piece before I decided to go for it (picture 4 below, on the left)

Locate a piece of leather (local leather shop had a near-perfect matching scrap)

Trace around the end cap to make a pattern

Fold leather in half (wrong side out) and draw around pattern with pen (picture 3)
3 pattern.JPG

Cut out (I used scissors; an Xacto knife might give neater edges) (picture 4)
4b cut out.JPG

Punch holes around the edge with sewing needle (easier to sew if holes are already made). Using a leather punch, choose the appropriate size hole and punch the center at the top for drawstring to go through later (don't make hole too big) (picture 5)
5 punch holes.JPG

Lightly sand around the edges to make them smooth and even

Sew around edges, joining the two sides (picture 6)
6 sew around.JPG

I used an unknotted single thread (leaving a long tail), going first one way doing every other stitch, then back the other direction to fill in the missed stitches. When I got back to the start, I tied the two thread ends together and tucked them inside. You could also use a classic backstitch if you prefer, or machine sew.

Brush two light coats of Fiebing's Leather Cement just around the sides and tip to seal. Let it dry.

Light coat of Blackrock on front and back of the piece. Let it dry. (picture 7)
7 ready to install.JPG

Brush Fiebing's leather cement on the end of the drawstring and insert it into the top hole. Let it dry. (picture 8)
8 finished.JPG

This was a true "labor of love" due to the time it took, but fun and worthwhile. I like the handmade end cap better than just tying a knot at the end of the drawstring.
 

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Making a Replacement Drawstring End Cap

This Lula's Legacy drawstring bag was missing one of the end caps on the drawstring (pictures 1,2).
View attachment 4316429

View attachment 4316430

I wanted to try my hand at making a replacement. I made a "proof of concept" test piece before I decided to go for it (picture 4 below, on the left)

Locate a piece of leather (local leather shop had a near-perfect matching scrap)

Trace around the end cap to make a pattern

Fold leather in half (wrong side out) and draw around pattern with pen (picture 3)
View attachment 4316431

Cut out (I used scissors; an Xacto knife might give neater edges) (picture 4)
View attachment 4316432

Punch holes around the edge with sewing needle (easier to sew if holes are already made). Using a leather punch, choose the appropriate size hole and punch the center at the top for drawstring to go through later (don't make hole too big) (picture 5)
View attachment 4316436

Lightly sand around the edges to make them smooth and even

Sew around edges, joining the two sides (picture 6)
View attachment 4316437

I used an unknotted single thread (leaving a long tail), going first one way doing every other stitch, then back the other direction to fill in the missed stitches. When I got back to the start, I tied the two thread ends together and tucked them inside. You could also use a classic backstitch if you prefer, or machine sew.

Brush two light coats of Fiebing's Leather Cement just around the sides and tip to seal. Let it dry.

Light coat of Blackrock on front and back of the piece. Let it dry. (picture 7)
View attachment 4316439

Brush Fiebing's leather cement on the end of the drawstring and insert it into the top hole. Let it dry. (picture 8)
View attachment 4316440

This was a true "labor of love" due to the time it took, but fun and worthwhile. I like the handmade end cap better than just tying a knot at the end of the drawstring.
Wow, what a great job!
 
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