Coach Rehab and Rescue Club

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i'm trying to clean a coach fabric bag which has a satin lining. initially i thought of simply purchasing the coach fabric cleaner to give the exterior of the bag a good wipe-down but when i was in the store (without the bag), the SA cautioned that the fabric cleaner may not work for all fabric bags and it's best i bring the bag instore for a spot-test before trying to clean the entire bag with it.

having read this thread, i'm just wondering if i could save money (and another trip to the store) by cleaning the bag with non-alcoholic baby wipes. there're no stains on the bag, but it does look somewhat grimy from use and i would like to "refresh" it. but i like some reassurance that the baby wipes will not discolour or spoil the bag (it's a light grey monogram) before i proceed to clean it.

tia for any comments and advice!
 
i'm trying to clean a coach fabric bag which has a satin lining. initially i thought of simply purchasing the coach fabric cleaner to give the exterior of the bag a good wipe-down but when i was in the store (without the bag), the SA cautioned that the fabric cleaner may not work for all fabric bags and it's best i bring the bag instore for a spot-test before trying to clean the entire bag with it.

having read this thread, i'm just wondering if i could save money (and another trip to the store) by cleaning the bag with non-alcoholic baby wipes. there're no stains on the bag, but it does look somewhat grimy from use and i would like to "refresh" it. but i like some reassurance that the baby wipes will not discolour or spoil the bag (it's a light grey monogram) before i proceed to clean it.

tia for any comments and advice!

Can you show some pics? Of the color and the grime. I used the Coach cleaner on a pink signature jacquard and didn't see a significant improvement. I think some of the other ladies have advocated just putting it in the washer, or giving it a dunk in a bucket with Woolite or some other gentle cleaner. (I couldn't do that with the pink because it was also suede.) I'm sure the others will be along with good suggestions, but you might want to consider some photos to help. ;)
 
Hi all......I love this group! I am a new rehabber and very intrigued by all of your suggestions. Could not wait to undertake my first project ....a black Soho Fletcher 4150. So excited was I to begin, I forgot to take my "before" picture!

A couple of questions to those who generously shared their process:

1: All I could find is Woolite and Ivory.... with scents!....at least at Safeway and Albertsons. Is there an unscented version that you use? I am using a mild dish soap, scent free and clear, nontoxic by Seventh Generation.

2 Do you use the equestrian, biker, or motor sport version of Leather Therapy? (I have both Lexol and Apple but they are both ~20 years old....maybe too old? I have Cadillac Shoe and boot care. That is what Nordstrom uses to condition their handbags. Is anyone familiar with it?)

3) Does anyone have a process written for restoring the bag trim where the dye has worn off? I see some references to using ink or paint.

4) How does one find $1.00 to $4.00 bags at Goodwill and Sal Army, etc? In my area no one has any except for the "boutique " Goodwill stores and the prices are $29.95 to $50....

Thank you all so much.....So glad I found you and this new passion.
 
A couple of questions to those who generously shared their process:

1: All I could find is Woolite and Ivory.... with scents!....at least at Safeway and Albertsons. Is there an unscented version that you use? I am using a mild dish soap, scent free and clear, nontoxic by Seventh Generation.


3) Does anyone have a process written for restoring the bag trim where the dye has worn off? I see some references to using ink or paint.

4) How does one find $1.00 to $4.00 bags at Goodwill and Sal Army, etc? In my area no one has any except for the "boutique " Goodwill stores and the prices are $29.95 to $50....

Thank you all so much.....So glad I found you and this new passion.

I'll answer a few parts of this for ya, based on what I know. Katev and a few others are familiar with Leather Therapy though.

I think you can restore a black bag's edges with black edge kote, or acrylic paint. I"ve actually used a little black scuff cover from Kiwi for mild edge fading.

I think the Woolite I"ve used on my bags has had a mild scent and it was fine. I think the bigger thing to avoid is the colored/dyed soaps. But I"ve used blue colored Dawn dish soap on darker bags with no problems. Black bags are very forgiving.

As far as Goodwill and Salvation Army,, I live in an over priced area and our GW and SA's do mark what they consider to be prime bags at the $20+ dollar range. However, I go to the less well known thrift shops and I literally pull every single bag off their display hooks and look at them all because I look for any bag of value- not just Coach, but I've found some awesome Coaches for under $10 on a regular basis. Occasionally SA and GW will miss a good bag or I"ll get it at a good price on their half off sales. I don't shop GW and SA as much as the lesser known shops though because I"ve had less luck at them in my area. HOpe this helps a bit.
 
Here are my responses, I am sure that other rehabbers will also be able to offer advice.

1) I use Ivory Ultra dish soap to wash my bags in the sink. It says “classic scent” but it is very mild and that hasn’t been a problem.

2) I wouldn’t use old products on my bags. I buy the leather therapy products at an equestrian shop and I don’t know if their biker or car products are similar or not.

I use Leather Therapy Restorer & Conditioner, but not on all bags. I sometimes use it on bags that I don’t want to treat with a thick, opaque paste. It works well on pebbled leather bags and I use it on bags that are very dried out. Be aware that it has a distinctive and persistent odor; but it’s not nasty. I like it because it smells “clean” to me!

When I wash I leather bags in the washing machine (a last resort but I have done it a few times) I use the Leather Therapy’s Leather Laundry Solution.

I am not familiar with Cadillac leather products.

3) I usually use permanent acrylic paints to touch up the edging. Here is info I previously posted about repairing the edging and using paint:

Vintage bags often lose sealant (color) along the edges of the straps and handles. I use small bottles of permanent acrylic paint to touch up the edges. You can find them at hobby stores and often at fabric stores like Joann's Fabrics. They are usually less than a dollar each. You will also need an artist's paint brush.

Cobbler shops sometime sell a product called EdgeKote (I think that is the name? It is also available online) and I have read that it also works well on the edging.

I usually take the bag's hangtag to the store with me to match the color but be careful not to lose the hangtag, I did that once! The black is an easy match, but you can also mix small amounts of the acrylic paints until you get the color you need. Like mixing a few drops of black with a small amount of a brighter blue to get a darker blue.

I have found that the colors on the labels are pretty accurate but you can usually unscrew the cap in the store to look at the actual paint color under the cap. When you are just touching up the strap edges you don't need an exact match on the color; a slightly darker color usually looks great.

Before applying paint (or using any new products) it’s always a good idea to “test first” especially if you are mixing paint colors. Apply a small amount of your paint mixture to an area of the bag that doesn't show. Let it dry completely to see how well it matches before applying it in areas that do show. Always use good lighting when working with paints.

The paint is permanent after in dries, but it cleans up easily with soap and water while it is wet or damp. I wear rubber gloves when I am working with paint.

Use the brush to lightly dab the paint along the edges of the strap or handles, try not to get any on the finished surface of the strap, and wipe it off quickly if you do get some on it. Let the paint dry completely, it dries pretty fast; and it is permanent after drying overnight.

Don’t neglect the edging; it is amazing how much of a difference it can make to the overall appearance of the bag!

4) You might get lucky at garage sales. I recently bought a made in NYC British Tan Companion bag for $1 at a flea market but it has a monogram on it. I haven't rehabbed it yet but here are the "Before" pics: http://s1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee413/katev2/British Tan Coach Pocket Zip/

Most of the vintage/used bags that I buy range between $8 to $15. I try to stay under $20 but I have gone as high as $45 for a “special bag” in good shape like my black Stewardess Bag.

Lately the Goodwill and the Salvation Army have been pricing their vintage designer bags rather high IMO, especially since they can’t seem to differentiate between fakes and genuine bags, I think that they price them all high “just in case”.

If the bag is badly beaten up it is often cheaper. I have tackled some challenging bags just because they were so cheap and I wouldn’t feel too bad if the rehab didn’t work out. But some bags are just too far gone so I usually leave them behind.

I have gotten lucky a few times with Italian Coach bags that the store staff may not have recognized, because they look different than the usual vintage glove-tanned leather bags or signature pattern bags. I have also found some very nice bags from less well-known brands at great prices. I got a gorgeous Isabella Fiore bag in great shape for just $13 recently.

Thrift stores also have sales. Every week the Salvation Army puts a different color price tag on a half-off sale. So if a vintage bag that hasn’t sold is the sale color you can get a deal. I left a black Basic Bag in decent shape behind the other day because I already have 2 Basic Bags. It had been priced at $35 but it was the sale color of the week so it was down to $17.50.

You can sign-up for the Goodwill Club online and they will send coupons periodically. They recently opened some Savers Thrift Stores in my area and I find that they often have a good selection and decent prices. Another nice thing is that you can bring items back to Savers for an exchange within a week of purchase. So if you buy a bag and then find out it is fake you aren’t stuck with it.

I haven’t bought many vintage bags on ebay because I can’t examine them in person and you have to figure in the shipping charges, but I have bought a few "special bags that way and I have been lucky and I know that a lot of fellow rehabbers get bags on ebay, bonanza, and Esty. Try and get them authenticated on TPF first.

Good luck!
 
Thanks so much Jessi and Katev. You are so kind to help.

Today, because I am too inexperienced to tackle it yet and because they were expensive, I rejected an off white bag that was scratched and dirty in the scratches and a lunchbox bag that had significant scuffed edges on the front of the bag.

Some info that would help me know my limits......What types of bag damage do you consider "too far gone" to rehab.? (If I see a good deal I can buy for the future as my skills improve.?
 
Some info that would help me know my limits......What types of bag damage do you consider "too far gone" to rehab.? (If I see a good deal I can buy for the future as my skills improve.?

That is a good question but will ultimately depend on you. Personally, I would not knowingly purchase a bag with pen marks on it or ones that have severe piping damage. The only way I have successfully gottom rid of pen marks on a bag is to paint over them. That is something I can't do each time with 100% success with a perfect color match.
 
Thanks so much Jessi and Katev. You are so kind to help.

Today, because I am too inexperienced to tackle it yet and because they were expensive, I rejected an off white bag that was scratched and dirty in the scratches and a lunchbox bag that had significant scuffed edges on the front of the bag.

Some info that would help me know my limits......What types of bag damage do you consider "too far gone" to rehab.? (If I see a good deal I can buy for the future as my skills improve.?

Dirty, light-colored bags are very hard to clean and I usually stay away from them. I avoid bags that are damaged (rips, tears, worn piping, etc.) But if the bag is intact but the stitching has separated, you can often take it to a shoe repair to be restitched.

Bad stains, especially major ink marks, should be avoided (although I once successfully rehabed a linen bag with red wine stains!)

I sniff bags before I buy them and if they smell like mold or mildew I leave them on the shelf because the mold may come back. I have never rehabbed a bag with strong cigarette odor but that might disappear with a bath?

Bags with fabric linings can be more difficult, but not impossible to rehab. Verdigris (green discoloration of the hardware) that has stained the leather is very hard to remove.

Lots of the scuffs and scratches will disappear (or be reduced) on dark-colored bags after cleaning and conditioning so don't be afraid of giving them a try.

I suggest starting out with a dark-colored, unlined bag. As you get more experienced you may become more adventurous, but be prepared for the occasional disappointment. Not all rehabs work out as well as you hope!
 
Dirty, light-colored bags are very hard to clean and I usually stay away from them. I avoid bags that are damaged (rips, tears, worn piping, etc.) But if the bag is intact but the stitching has separated, you can often take it to a shoe repair to be restitched.

Bad stains, especially major ink marks, should be avoided (although I once successfully rehabed a linen bag with red wine stains!)

I sniff bags before I buy them and if they smell like mold or mildew I leave them on the shelf because the mold may come back. I have never rehabbed a bag with strong cigarette odor but that might disappear with a bath?

Bags with fabric linings can be more difficult, but not impossible to rehab. Verdigris (green discoloration of the hardware) that has stained the leather is very hard to remove.

Lots of the scuffs and scratches will disappear (or be reduced) on dark-colored bags after cleaning and conditioning so don't be afraid of giving them a try.

I suggest starting out with a dark-colored, unlined bag. As you get more experienced you may become more adventurous, but be prepared for the occasional disappointment. Not all rehabs work out as well as you hope!

Definitely NO mildew. And I suggest no suede unless you got it really cheap and you're feelin' froggy! I'm swearing off suede unless I love love love it!
 
Some info that would help me know my limits......What types of bag damage do you consider "too far gone" to rehab.? (If I see a good deal I can buy for the future as my skills improve.?

Mahogany Brown and Black unlined bags are a great start. Most that I've done are much improved, though a couple of "mystery spots" never came out and the bags were cheap enough I didn't get too upset about it. Here's my feeling about the piping on the bag. Mostly, if it's torn, I don't bother. However, on one very old, NYC era Rambler bag which seems a bit rarer to find, -it was very dirty, and had one small area of torn piping that I decided "what the heck, I"ll try it" because it was a tan color, and for some reason I LOVE the vintage/scuffed & scratched patina look on tan and light brown bags, so I knew I'd love it's look no matter what. I gave it a bath, and the piping -which was stretched out and looked really obvious, shrank back after the washing to just be a mild looking bumped out spot, and honestly, it doesn't bother me at all ! I really love that it looks so retro vintage. (Maybe I will try to post some photos). The rest of it is so well made!! So, just my thoughts on what my limits are LOL. I started with easy black and dark bags, and kept washing all the old bags just to see what happened.
 
Hi! I just bought a vintage coach bag and I am in the process of restoring it. However upon inspecting the inside of front slit pocket, I notice there is a lot of hair caught in the very bottom between the two walls of the purse so it's hard to get tweezers or fingers in there to get the hair out. Any ideas/advice as to how to best remove hair caught in the crevices of pockets?! THANKS!
 
Hi! I just bought a vintage coach bag and I am in the process of restoring it. However upon inspecting the inside of front slit pocket, I notice there is a lot of hair caught in the very bottom between the two walls of the purse so it's hard to get tweezers or fingers in there to get the hair out. Any ideas/advice as to how to best remove hair caught in the crevices of pockets?! THANKS!

I had a vintage bag once that was loaded with animal fur, yuck! If you have a vacuum cleaner with a skinny flat attachment that can be helpful. Use a long sharp tool - like a wooden skewer - to dig the stuff out and loosen it up and then vacuum it out.
 
Hi! I just bought a vintage coach bag and I am in the process of restoring it. However upon inspecting the inside of front slit pocket, I notice there is a lot of hair caught in the very bottom between the two walls of the purse so it's hard to get tweezers or fingers in there to get the hair out. Any ideas/advice as to how to best remove hair caught in the crevices of pockets?! THANKS!

I had a vintage bag once that was loaded with animal fur, yuck! If you have a vacuum cleaner with a skinny flat attachment that can be helpful. Use a long sharp tool - like a wooden skewer - to dig the stuff out and loosen it up and then vacuum it out.

One of those wooden flat-ended sticks they use in do-it-yourself manicure sets for your cuticles works, too. I also have a set of dental tools for cleaning, um, things, but those are sharp and can do more damage than good sometimes.
 
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