Chanel’s Rise & STALL: Defects, Difficulties & Deflection (formerly the 19 tote saga thread)

TPF may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others

I know OP mainly commented on the new 19 and 22. But what about the new lambskin minis ppl are chasing after? Reading through the whole thread makes me wonder what type of ‘ lambskin’ they actually use for those minis.

I played with the new lambskin minis ( black or seasonal colours ) through recent years in store and the leather texture felt sooooooo different from my old lambskin minis from 2013 and 2014. The SA would say that the new lambskin is much more durable than the old ones BUT now I am wondering what they put on the mini lambskin to make it more durable?? Are they really 100% lambskin like my old lamb minis??

I used to think bags in leather are definitely more justified for Chanel’s high price tags. But now I feel bags in fabric may be better because at least you know what you are getting ( 100% fabric ). Chanel needs to be more transparent about their leather bags. We are paying for a leather bag and we expect to get a 100% leather bag.
 
I know OP mainly commented on the new 19 and 22. But what about the new lambskin minis ppl are chasing after? Reading through the whole thread makes me wonder what type of ‘ lambskin’ they actually use for those minis.

I played with the new lambskin minis ( black or seasonal colours ) through recent years in store and the leather texture felt sooooooo different from my old lambskin minis from 2013 and 2014. The SA would say that the new lambskin is much more durable than the old ones BUT now I am wondering what they put on the mini lambskin to make it more durable?? Are they really 100% lambskin like my old lamb minis??

I used to think bags in leather are definitely more justified for Chanel’s high price tags. But now I feel bags in fabric may be better because at least you know what you are getting ( 100% fabric ). Chanel needs to be more transparent about their leather bags. We are paying for a leather bag and we expect to get a 100% leather bag.
ITA. I was thinking about that yesterday too. At least the fabric bags we know what we are getting. And other brands are doing this plasticky vague "leather" stuff too, not just Chanel. It's interesting though because like, Balenciaga says "100% lamb leather". And BV has the same. Chloe also. Lots of 100%'s published out there in descriptions which makes me think they are doing this to differentiate from the non-100% ones?
 
Since we’re not getting anymore info from Chanel, I thought I’d compare the lambskin on the 19 to my 25 plus years old lambskin jacket, which my daughter has now inherited. It’s not a designer jacket but made by a reputable leather company using very high quality lambskin. I know because I have family member that worked at that company for years and was intimate with the construction of the leather pieces. This company supplied high end retail companies, but no longer because their materials were too expensive and retailers did not want to pay those prices. Anyway here are some pics from a distance and some magnified by 30x by my jewelers loupe.

I’ll just say by touch, feel and look, I’m personally comfortable that every surface that I can feel on the 19 is treated/coated lambskin, though based on @TraceySH ‘s experiments apparently heavily coated. I think from a functional standpoint I am ok with that. If I can use it and not worry about it getting easily damaged to the extent that the damage is obvious, then the bag works for me.

Here is my jacket from a distance. And then with the 19 up close next to it.

749BD40B-AB94-4A91-A9AE-EB676A5877B3.jpegC2430083-0C52-4AD2-9CE3-0CCFEEA05107.png833153C9-9440-4B29-BEC0-ED21D6C7B413.png232FE5F3-CE27-48DA-94C4-580574325980.png53A0A760-459D-4D47-9704-867030BA9ACC.jpeg4A38797B-745A-4BF4-A9F7-FF84C2FAA916.jpeg

And then at 30x magnification. My jacket is in the middle. The top and bottom are different parts of the 19 bag.
7B8FD3E4-FDBC-438F-BD0D-82BF2EBA17B8.jpeg

This is one shows my jacket on top and the 19 on the bottom.
C29E0113-B9C5-4075-BBFC-8BA4CD958AE2.jpeg

It’s unfortunate that Chanel will not disclose more. I just need to use my own judgement to determine what I trust the materials to be and what works for me from the functional standpoint of a purse.
 
Last edited:
Since we’re not getting anymore info from Chanel, I thought I’d compare the lambskin on the 19 to my 25 plus lambskin jacket, which my daughter has now inherited. It’s not a designer jacket but made by a reputable leather company using very high quality lambskin. I know because I have family member that worked at that company for years and was intimate with the construction of the leather pieces. This company supplied high end retail companies, but no longer because their materials were too expensive and retailers did not want to pay those prices. Anyway here are some pics from a distance and some magnified by 30x by my jewelers loupe.

I’ll just say by touch, feel and look, I’m personally comfortable that every surface that I can feel on the 19 is treated/coated lambskin, though based on @TraceySH ‘s experiments apparently heavily coated. I think from a functional standpoint I am ok with that. If I can use it and not worry about it getting easily damaged to the extent that the damage is obvious, then the bag works for me.

Here is my jacket from a distance. And then with the 19 up close next to it.

View attachment 5578654View attachment 5578655View attachment 5578656View attachment 5578657View attachment 5578658View attachment 5578659

And then at 30x magnification. My jacket is in the middle. The top and bottom are different parts of the 19 bag.
View attachment 5578662

This is one shows my jacket on top and the 19 on the bottom.
View attachment 5578663

It’s unfortunate that Chanel will not disclose more. I just need to use my own judgement to determine what I trust the materials to be and what works for me from the functional standpoint of a purse.
Thank you for doing this!! I don't doubt at all the the 19's are lambskin/ goatskin/ etc, I just doubt that some or most of them are 100% lambskin or goatskin...bonded leather can have the exact same patterning as leather but it's "mixed" with other things. Also, what layer of the leather are they using? Full grain? Top grain? Bottom? "Leather"? (which means lower layers).

So I am not even saying that's bad. Sometimes, clearly from my "experiments", that can make those bags insanely durable. BUT, I just think we have the right to know WHAT it IS? And also, if they ARE using bonded leather, which we know they are for some things, that's extremely inexpensive, so also, we have the right to know b/c these are big $$ decisions.

Remember too that part of the bonded leather process is to stamp that material to look EXACTLY LIKE the leather it's attempting to mimic. It can be nearly impossible to tell the difference. But, all leather has pores, and absorbs ...which makes these questionable as they are waterproof. SO, it's not always good/ bad /right/ wrong, it's why aren't they telling us so we can at least make informed decisions?
 
Thank you for doing this!! I don't doubt at all the the 19's are lambskin/ goatskin/ etc, I just doubt that some or most of them are 100% lambskin or goatskin...bonded leather can have the exact same patterning as leather but it's "mixed" with other things. Also, what layer of the leather are they using? Full grain? Top grain? Bottom? "Leather"? (which means lower layers).

So I am not even saying that's bad. Sometimes, clearly from my "experiments", that can make those bags insanely durable. BUT, I just think we have the right to know WHAT it IS? And also, if they ARE using bonded leather, which we know they are for some things, that's extremely inexpensive, so also, we have the right to know b/c these are big $$ decisions.

Remember too that part of the bonded leather process is to stamp that material to look EXACTLY LIKE the leather it's attempting to mimic. It can be nearly impossible to tell the difference. But, all leather has pores, and absorbs ...which makes these questionable as they are waterproof. SO, it's not always good/ bad /right/ wrong, it's why aren't they telling us so we can at least make informed decisions?
Chanel should disclose it. They are relying on decades of goodwill. But when their products don’t bear out the quality they purport then their clients start to question whether that goodwill is still merited.
 
And just for fun here it is compared to my lambskin mini. 19 on top, jacket in the middle, mini on the bottom. Lighting makes a big difference.

733F916E-7F03-4C23-9F98-9476290B36BB.jpeg

And a perspective pic. Clearly these pieces are less “coated” than the 19. My jacket has a much more matte look, a slight sheen at certain angles but it definitely absorbs more light than either of the CHanel bags.

F3C401E0-7E2E-457D-98D9-B9D69DD58708.jpeg
 
Chanel should disclose it. They are relying on decades of goodwill. But when their products don’t bear out the quality they purport then their clients start to question whether that goodwill is still merited.
And then feel gaslit because you wonder if you’re going crazy. But, the 19 totes I posted here were egregiously defective. Peeling, weird texture, some strange white stuff behind the “leather” that looks like rubber. All these people with their 22 bag issues. So something’s up. And without Chanel addressing it or providing some transparency, it’s like land mines out there in terms of confidence w/ purchasing.
 
Chanel is not so shy to disclose what type of RTW material used and what % used: such as 100% cashmere, 100% lambskin, 90% Cotton ect. Wish they did this for leather bags too.
They only do it because it’s legally required I believe. If it wasn’t legally regulated, they (along with many other luxury brands) would be just as ambiguous.



ITA. I was thinking about that yesterday too. At least the fabric bags we know what we are getting. And other brands are doing this plasticky vague "leather" stuff too, not just Chanel. It's interesting though because like, Balenciaga says "100% lamb leather". And BV has the same. Chloe also. Lots of 100%'s published out there in descriptions which makes me think they are doing this to differentiate from the non-100% ones?
from an SA about the Bal bags. When Balenciaga say things like 100% lambskin they don’t mean they’re using 100% lambskin instead of some Frankenstein bonded leather. They mean the bag‘s composition (excl hardware) is 100% lambskin. But it’s like why a brand says a shirt is ‘100% cotton’ even though the threads used to sew the shirt together is polyester and the buttons are resin.

YSL is much better about this by saying the bag comprises 80% leather and 20% brass hardware.
 
I am dying to get inside that thing! But I also really like the dark grey one. I clearly woke up in a sassy mood, maybe the next one will involve a lil surgery lol
Thank you, @TraceySH for putting your 19 through the wringer for us & starting the conversation. This thread has been an eye-opener for me, in terms of my assumptions and expectations about designer leather goods. I definitely need to be a more savvy consumer going forward.

It's also good to know that my dark grey lambskin 19 is as durable as I've experienced it to be, even though I have never (& never will) put it through the gauntlet you did. LOL.
 
Wellllllll for everyone here. I called Chanel's 800 customer service line and asked if they had some documentation they could provide that stated their bags are 100% leather, including the 19 and the 22. The person I spoke with said they don't and they cannot provide any more specifics about the materials used other than what is listed on the site.

So. Everyone can take that one of 2 ways. I know how I take it, but some will insist on defending the lack of transparency. SO, "straight from the horse's mouth", so to speak. You guys decide.
I don’t understand why you keep deciding to take digs by saying “some will insist on defending the lack of transparency.” There’s not a single person on this thread who hasn’t voiced quality concerns with Chanel. No one is blind to it.

It’s obvious you’re referring to me with your jab. I made it clear I didn’t want to continue dialogue with you, and felt I addressed my previous post in a diplomatic fashion. I shared information on acrylic being used on lambskin to possibly give others an idea of what the coating on the 19 bag could be.

Just because some of us have Chanel bags that are well made in our collection doesn’t mean we don’t understand that there are and have been quality issues. I hope at some point Chanel addresses all of them. But I am still a fan and a client and if I have issues I would go about addressing it in a much more constructive manner without openly bashing a brand.

You talk about wanting transparency from a fashion house like Chanel and you’re not going to get it, especially not in the manner you’re going about. You basically want a breakdown of “ingredients” and it’s not going to happen. The EU has strict rules in place with fashion houses (they’re one of the largest exports) so if they were doing something illegal, like saying a leather bag is made of leather when it’s made of something else, I’d imagine they’d face serious consequences.

Chanel is one of the number one, if not THE number one, replicated brand and you think they’re going to break down the exact science of their bag process so the Chinese can start making even better fakes? I’m not defending this lack of transparency you keep referring to, I just understand how luxury fashion houses work. I interned for one of the biggest fashion magazines, have a fashion background, worked in luxury and around some of the biggest luxury brands. I know how they operate more often than not. I’ve gone into purchasing luxury goods with this frame of mind. Not saying things can’t or shouldn’t change, but you also have to understand how long many of these brands have been operating for. They have heritage and deep history and aren’t necessarily just going to flip a switch to how they’ve operated.

Chanel has always been very private and tight lipped, nothing has changed. I accept that. I’ve been following fashion and Chanel since before I was a teenager and they had the same mysterious stance then and they’re highly unlikely to change now.

Maybe one day I’ll stop purchasing items because I can’t justify the prices, or my experience has made me unhappy, or for whatever reason, but I’m happy with my collection. If you’re not happy with them, stop purchasing. If you want to prove a point, stop purchasing. If you don’t think they’re luxury, etc, then stop purchasing. If you don’t believe in the authenticity of the material you’re buying, stop purchasing. That’s a much more powerful statement.

If you absolutely, unequivocally want answers, then hire multiple luxury leather artisans who’ve worked with luxury brands to give you an independent analysis of the bags in question.

An example to something similar to this “lack of transparency” is LV clients complaining that the newer canvas is cheap and cracking and nothing close to being durable and withstanding like their vintage canvas. Well, the vintage canvas had to be reformulated because the compounds they were using had toxic ingredients and they had to halt production. Those compounds are the reason vintage LV canvas is so much harder than current canvas. Unbeknownst to most clients vintage canvas actually had more issues with cracking because of the harder materials. But do you think LV is issuing this statement in every bag they’re selling? No. Of course not. And they never will. That’s not luxury and luxury is what they’re selling.

There have been people on here that echoed your sentiments in a powerful and insightful way, like the high tier client from Palm Beach. Someone like her gains my attention.
 
I don’t understand why you keep deciding to take digs by saying “some will insist on defending the lack of transparency.” There’s not a single person on this thread who hasn’t voiced quality concerns with Chanel. No one is blind to it.

It’s obvious you’re referring to me with your jab. I made it clear I didn’t want to continue dialogue with you, and felt I addressed my previous post in a diplomatic fashion. I shared information on acrylic being used on lambskin to possibly give others an idea of what the coating on the 19 bag could be.

Just because some of us have Chanel bags that are well made in our collection doesn’t mean we don’t understand that there are and have been quality issues. I hope at some point Chanel addresses all of them. But I am still a fan and a client and if I have issues I would go about addressing it in a much more constructive manner without openly bashing a brand.

You talk about wanting transparency from a fashion house like Chanel and you’re not going to get it, especially not in the manner you’re going about. You basically want a breakdown of “ingredients” and it’s not going to happen. The EU has strict rules in place with fashion houses (they’re one of the largest exports) so if they were doing something illegal, like saying a leather bag is made of leather when it’s made of something else, I’d imagine they’d face serious consequences.

Chanel is one of the number one, if not THE number one, replicated brand and you think they’re going to break down the exact science of their bag process so the Chinese can start making even better fakes? I’m not defending this lack of transparency you keep referring to, I just understand how luxury fashion houses work. I interned for one of the biggest fashion magazines, have a fashion background, worked in luxury and around some of the biggest luxury brands. I know how they operate more often than not. I’ve gone into purchasing luxury goods with this frame of mind. Not saying things can’t or shouldn’t change, but you also have to understand how long many of these brands have been operating for. They have heritage and deep history and aren’t necessarily just going to flip a switch to how they’ve operated.

Chanel has always been very private and tight lipped, nothing has changed. I accept that. I’ve been following fashion and Chanel since before I was a teenager and they had the same mysterious stance then and they’re highly unlikely to change now.

Maybe one day I’ll stop purchasing items because I can’t justify the prices, or my experience has made me unhappy, or for whatever reason, but I’m happy with my collection. If you’re not happy with them, stop purchasing. If you want to prove a point, stop purchasing. If you don’t think they’re luxury, etc, then stop purchasing. If you don’t believe in the authenticity of the material you’re buying, stop purchasing. That’s a much more powerful statement.

If you absolutely, unequivocally want answers, then hire multiple luxury leather artisans who’ve worked with luxury brands to give you an independent analysis of the bags in question.

An example to something similar to this “lack of transparency” is LV clients complaining that the newer canvas is cheap and cracking and nothing close to being durable and withstanding like their vintage canvas. Well, the vintage canvas had to be reformulated because the compounds they were using had toxic ingredients and they had to halt production. Those compounds are the reason vintage LV canvas is so much harder than current canvas. Unbeknownst to most clients vintage canvas actually had more issues with cracking because of the harder materials. But do you think LV is issuing this statement in every bag they’re selling? No. Of course not. And they never will. That’s not luxury and luxury is what they’re selling.

There have been people on here that echoed your sentiments in a powerful and insightful way, like the high tier client from Palm Beach. Someone like her gains my attention.
Please just stop. I was not referring to you. My goodness. You are off topic here. Please return to the topic at hand or start your own thread. Thank you.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Guccigal16
Thank you, @TraceySH for putting your 19 through the wringer for us & starting the conversation. This thread has been an eye-opener for me, in terms of my assumptions and expectations about designer leather goods. I definitely need to be a more savvy consumer going forward.

It's also good to know that my dark grey lambskin 19 is as durable as I've experienced it to be, even though I have never (& never will) put it through the gauntlet you did. LOL.
I mean, that's the W here is the 19 (other than the totes of course) are gonna hold up!
 
  • Like
Reactions: thundercloud
I have the original 19 in Goatskin also. It does smell like leather. I'm really commenting on the 22 bag and now the new 19 tote that OP posted. I don't understand why the 19 Tote would be made differently than the 19 bag tho-does that make sense? Something changed. These are newer quality issues and they aren't good.
Yes, I understand what you’re saying. I didn’t realize the tote was in the 19 collection until after I first commented. *face palm*

Some of the bags look similar with the chains so I though the tote was made in regular lamb (which I thought was illogical in that size and shape given the nature of lambskin), not the durable, treated 19 lamb.

It’s ironic that lamb is commonly used by fashion houses for its soft, buttery feel but the very thin skin (generally speaking) contradicts practicality for me. I’ve stayed away from lamb with the exception of a few things, but now I’ll buy lamb treated like the 19 bags. Lol.

So yeah, admittedly there’s something wrong with her bag. It seems like a lot of bad batches. Chanel has had its share of crooked bags, but in this case something very unusual went down in their factories. These are issues none of us have seen.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Taty and gail13
Top