Bottega's Unique Weaving and Treatment Processes

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Since this was not added yet... the Canevas Boutis bag up-close. Is it French? Italian? Both? Regardless, the term "boutis" harks back to a quilting technique of inserting filling in between 2 layers of material sewn together. Some more history on the boutis on the links below:

http://www.historyofquilts.com/french_quilt_history.html

And according to the BV website, this particular bag is made of "ultralight leather". Anyone know what kind of leather? (lambskin, calf, cervo, etc?) I've seen it IRL but I didn't have a chance to look up close.

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While I am not really into these new S/S 2010 Sfrangiato style bags, I can't help but marvel at the beautiful interplay of the standard nappa fettuce and the nuvolato ones! The latter is the same puffy material used on the Tie-Dye Cabat that ReRe shared on post #44. The orchid bag is nappa while the cigar is nappa umbria. Lovely!
 

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Cornley is a type of embroidery. Originally called chain embroidery, the technique has been around since 3500 BC. Stitches that resemble a chain link, are formed with one thread fed from the bottom side of fabric. This is a common stitch in hand crewelry. The name Cornley came from the Cornley Atelier, the French embroiderer to aristocracy in the 1500s. A famous example of this is Elizabeth's Phoenix gown, c1575, also seen here as a faithful reproduction.

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In the mid 1800s a machine was invented to perform this time consuming embroidery, given the name the Cornely Machine. Now it is done on a manual or computerized machine with a hook that functions as a needle. Cornley machines are still in existence and are capable of doing much more than embroidery, it is also done for cording (see example above). Bottega Veneta first used this technique in their Fall-Winter 2006-2007 collection. The green Cornley tote and the Carmino Veneta shown illustrate this technique:

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Thanks jburgh for the tutorial on Cornely. I now understand when Brian said it's the first time BV has done this he is referring to the straw application on the fetteccia which is called Paglia (the Italian word for straw) and it's twisted which looks completely different from the 2006-2007 season. :D You manage to come up with everything. :tup:
 

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Thanks jburgh for the tutorial on Cornely. I now understand when Brian said it's the first time BV has done this he is referring to the straw application on the fetteccia which is called Paglia (the Italian word for straw) and it's twisted which looks completely different from the 2006-2007 season. :D You manage to come up with everything. :tup:

Yes, that is correct. Your bag utilizes Cornely type machine work to do couching or cording of the straw to the fettuce.

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fresh off the press from bryan ([email protected]) in hawaii

Intrecciato Acquarello from SS 2010
-Buffalo leather.
-Introduction of new kind of weave.
-All products feature our traditional intrecciato combined with a small, new one.
-The weaving process is longer than usual because it takes 4 times longer to make the tiny intrecciato.
-The dying process is interesting: models are cut, woven and partially sewn using the original white leather and then hand painted.
-The products in this group become a kind of paint canvas.
-Great expertise is required because the artisan paints the bag directly.
-It is painted using a brush and sponge.
-After, polishing comes: this consists in applying transparent film to the product and ironing it at a high temp.

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Intreccio Nuvolato Veneta
-Irregular straw effect
-Traditional "Intrecciato" is enriched by inter-weaving several meters of tubular leather
-BV's Icon bag's silhouette is embellished by renovated braid made with tubular leather instead of strips. Think the classic Veneta (flat fettuce) with random "tubular" strips mixed in.

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Details from Bryan ([email protected]), our uber SA

Cabat Paille in Vitellino Lisse - ss2010

"Paille" is the French name for straw and straw basketry inspires this exclusive weaving technique. The special strip used to make the cabat is the result of several experiments. It's really interesting to note straw's typical creaking sound obtained by using our "vitellino lisse" after various treatments. The irregularity of straw is achieved with a technique similar to plisse, used in fabrics, consisting in creating small, irregular pleats & then hot-pressing them. This new strip requires double the amount of leather to the traditional "nappa" one.

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