It's strictly due to when the bag was made. Coach used Talon zippers on many of their older bags along with a few other brands but gradually started switching over to mostly YKK. The brown bag has the "industrial-style" zipper that they used a lot during the 70s and 80s with the heavier pull and the blue-black fabric edging. Once in a while they'll still use non-YKK zippers on a few of their new bags. But all those bogus "Guides" claiming that Coach ONLY uses YKK zippers are 100 percent wrong.
Early hangtags were usually 2 separate tags that were glued together and often came apart, but Coach has also used thicker single-sided hangtags in a lot of different designs. There have been literally dozens of different hangtag styles over the years. And remember too that a lot of hangtags may not be original to that particular bag since a lot of people used them as keychains or just took them off and lost them. Quite a few hangtags on older bags are replacements.
Interesting discussion! I just pulled out the British Tan Basic Bag that I've recently purchased as my next rehab project and compared it to the Gray Basic Bag that I rehabbed a few months ago.
I think that the BT bag may be a little older. It has a larger, heavier zipper and the pull is clearly marked TALON. Although the gray bag also has a heavy-duty zipper, it is a bit smaller and rounder than the TALON but the ring pull is a bit larger. I cannot see any markings on the gray bag's zipper but perhaps they have worn away.
They both have hangtags that are unfinished on one side. The british tan bag's creed says "Made in New York City, U.S.A." and the gray bag says "Made in U.S.A."
I agree that you can't judge a bag by the hangtag, because I have added replacement hangtags to several of my rehabbed bags; but I tend to associate the one-sided hangtags with the older NYC and USA bags.
I currently have 4 City Bags in my possesion (I really have to stop buying rehab projects and/or do something with my vintage collection!)
Red City Bag: made in 1992 in Costa Rica, the hangtag is finished on both sides. The inner pocket has a small, brass YKK zipper pull and the zipper has plastic threads.
Black City Bag #2: Made in Turkey in 1996, the hangtag is finished on both sides. The inner pocket has a larger, brass YKK zipper pull and the zipper has brass threads.
Black City Bag #1: Made in the United States circa 1980s, it has a replacement hangtag and a larger YKK brass zipper pull and brass zipper threads.
British Tan City Bag: Made in the United States circa 1980s, the hangtag is finished on 1 side only. It has a slightly smaller YKK brass zipper pull and threads.
The leather on the US made bags feels thicker!