I wanted to add, that this collection seems mainly comprised of what will become Celine’s “permanent” seasonless collection of basics which will be sold the entire time Hedi is there. He did the same at YSL. His first runway collection for YSL had classic tuxedo and fringe jackets, shoes and bags, which were on sale the entire time Hedi was there. This explains the lack of innovation. It’s a deliberate creative and business strategy.
Any guesses or speculation for Hedi’s 1st collection?
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I wanted to add, that this collection seems mainly comprised of what will become Celine’s “permanent” seasonless collection of basics which will be sold the entire time Hedi is there. He did the same at YSL. His first runway collection for YSL had classic tuxedo and fringe jackets, shoes and bags, which were on sale the entire time Hedi was there. This explains the lack of innovation. It’s a deliberate creative and business strategy.
I really think there is no doubt the influence of Karl Lagerfeld is greater than that of Slimane! He is arguably one of the most influential fashion figures alive, and he has defined the standard for creative director, I.e., a designer of another brand name. I would also argue that Philo’s influence is more enduring, but that is just me and maybe wistful thinking.
What is interesting about this collection is that it questions the whole KL model of brand building. Basically Slimane is saying, I do Slimane using well established ateliers of I don’t care which brand. Why doesn’t he design under his own name? Boundaries are blurring.
It is true that Celine’s brand identity is weaker than that of other houses. However it did have an underlying essence which had to do with the bien penssante petite burgeoisie, very French, very proper. Both Kors and Philo played with this identity. Yes, the Philo woman went less for lunch and more to galleries, but neither were the disco party girl. They had left that behind and were unapologetically living a serious mature life. This collection of Slimane caters exclusively for the young girl on a party night. it is a complete reversal of identity. LVMH know that with this collection they are alinieting every single client who bought Celine clothes in the last decades: they are all gone from one day to the next. And they don’t care. Basically, what they are saying is that they are not interested in that client. Food for thought.
There is a lot to think about on the state of fashion after this show. But what I found most upsetting is how very lazy it was. I liked him at Dior Homme, But this really looked like a student project “in the manner of Slimane”. There was not even the pretence that either fashion and design (let alone art) or couture and craftsmanship had any play in it. It was unabashedly a set up to sell, with nothing behind, just the pure raw business and marketing tools exposed in all their glory. I am glad that a couple of fashion critics are being brave and speaking up that the skinny Emperor has no new clothes on.
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When will the Céline website so back up and stop showing the fashion show?
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Deleted member 629947
My thoughts exactly!
I read an exclusive interview he gave recently, in Le Figaro I believe, and sadly his words don’t match the reality he’s creating at Celine...
This was why Vogue runway review called it exactly what it js - that LVMH now has its own “Saint Laurent” to compete head to head with the original Saint Laurent at Kerring. It’s a cage death match between two billionairs.... Slimane DNA was etched into version 1.0 and now he’s dusting off his atelier for a repeat of version 2.0. This is what he is capable of, he has done so at Dior and Saint Laurent so why not a third time. The problem is I see is the androgynous trend has moved on and away, I feel his timing is way off. The last 2-3 years have gravitated towards urban street wear and geeky chic (looking at you Gucci). His show feels anachronistic with the millennials who bough from him 8-10 years ago. Those fans have grown up and are in a different phase of their life where babydoll dresses, and skinny pants/suits no longer fit (sad but true).
I too feel as if Slimane’s insta feed got stuck and his show felt lazy and derivative, after all he ran all the away to the bank with the androgynous look before. At the heart of every major designed’s bankable ability is their success with handbags even though the houses don’t break down the results between ready to wear and leather goods. On that note, what Slimane showed on the runway is hardly impressive if not banal. When one compares and contrast Celine’s vision before and after, it couldn’t be more clear how Philo’s POV got stronger and stronger with time. It’s a shame that LVMH lost that but agreed that Philo had no interest in designing for men but given that’s where they’re heading, it became inevitable.
I thought young people were supposed to have NO money
They’ll have to give up the avocados!
That's the way I felt when AM too over as CD of Gucci. The liaison told me I was the customer she least worried about. I already had quirky vintage everything, I needed Gucci to polish everything up. Still, nobody gives me a hard time wearing anything anymore.
Back to Hs. It's a real 'pull the plug' moment when a man designs skirts/dresses so short that no mortal woman could sit down or stretch up in. Basically, it is a 'I hate all women over the age of 21' show.
I think you're 100% right, very insightful. However, his 'vision' is beginning to look a bit dated
just left the Céline store after picking up a frame bag. my SA said the styles deemed classics would be luggage & box bag and they will most likely remain in production indefinitely. Everything else is up in the air. Tried to get the trio today as well but was told that the boutique is limiting one bag per person to cater to the high demands for the older Phoebe models before Hedi’s new lines hit stores this November. Didn’t quite budget for multiple luxury purchases before the year is up, but with the uncertainty, definitely making it a point to get the bags I’m after before they sell out.
Sorry to derail the thread for a sec, but since you mentioned VB. I have just picked up a beautiful VB half moon box in black for this reason, which I managed to get at a good discount. I know the classic box should still be around for a while but for some reason I don't like the fine grain on the smooth leather - I have a natural tan calfskin (totally smooth and am looking forward to developing the patina) and a liege but somehow the in-between grain bothers me enough that I can't justify the price.
Happy to post pics separately later if anyone is interested, but basically I can second this recommendation for the minimalist aesthetic, unsurprisingly as VB is clearly a Philo lover. The shape and overall vibe is like Box meets Trotteur but I don't feel like it's a copycat - it has taken its design influences from Celine/PP respectfully, but is its own thing. The leather is really really yummy and supple (supposedly palmellato box calf), and it has good capacity and is lined in suede so nice and light. The leather is softer than the box, possibly because the inside is a bit less structured (it's just one big compartment, whereas the compartments in the box give it a stiffer structure). It is not quite at the same level as the box but I also got it for less than 1/5 of the price, and it certainly looks much more luxurious than its price tag. I don't know if I'd have gotten it at full price though.
We're generally talking about aesthetic and the Philo/Celine influence so I don't think it's too far off topic. Your find's a good buy. Resale's not there so if it were full price, I'd be hesitant to pull the trigger too. VB's bags are Made-in-Italy, RTW in the UK and Victoria herself has really high standards (iirc, David had to inject cashflow for her brand because they wouldn't cut corners).
In addition to the Half-Moon, I can see VB's Eva being a hybrid of the Box and Trotteur as well.
I love Victoria Beckham and Olsen's The Row too (btw I think that VB would deserve its own category here on the forum). And Tom Ford.
And since Celine is unfortunately dead for me
I planning some new bags from VB, although I planned buying Celine Cabas and Trio in burgundy before the s/s show.
I still can believe how new Celine bags look like. It's nightmare for me.... I mean Celine was really my big love.
And since Celine is unfortunately dead for me
I planning some new bags from VB, although I planned buying Celine Cabas and Trio in burgundy before the s/s show.I still can believe how new Celine bags look like. It's nightmare for me.... I mean Celine was really my big love.
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