Any guesses or speculation for Hedi’s 1st collection?
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@Thenewestgirl I wish I can get my hands on the Classics, but I think everyone has already reserved them 
Maybe the Alphabet pendant, or shoes, something to remember by. Not the bags at the moment 
Maybe the Alphabet pendant, or shoes, something to remember by. Not the bags at the moment 
Oh dear...
The whole thing looks like Project Runway.
The bags seem to consist of a few banal shapes (Pochette Metis meets Chanel flap) with vintage borrowed clasps.
The black clutch doesn’t look bad.
I don’t know, fine he wants to do it in his own style, but this feel like I can’t be half bothered
The whole thing looks like Project Runway.
The bags seem to consist of a few banal shapes (Pochette Metis meets Chanel flap) with vintage borrowed clasps.
The black clutch doesn’t look bad.
I don’t know, fine he wants to do it in his own style, but this feel like I can’t be half bothered
@Thenewestgirl I wish I can get my hands on the Classics, but I think everyone has already reserved them
Yeah, probably!
Ooo! The pendants are so cool! Hopefully they still have them left in the right letter! 
I can imagine that they have been popular lately with the news that they might get discontinued! (Might, or will..?) Hopefully you find some nice things to bring home! You are very welcome to post pictures of your finds!
I actually kind of liked the clutch in the last picture! That's more than I would have believed I would like...
Probably because it just looks like a regular clutch, not that heavily slimanized.The others, no, I really don't care for this giant, vintage inspired hardware thing that he has going on... The lock on that rounded shoulder bag version of the 16 looks quite nice, but I don't think that the rest of the bag is really my cup of tea...
Maybe they look better IRL, but doesn't those giant hardwares look very plasticky in all the pictures we have seen so far? I don't know. It makes them look quite costumey? Like a really cheap bag that aspires to look luxurious to the extent that it looks like a joke?
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Well, I knew it. Loads of black but not a diverse runway. In this day and age that show was a bit tone deaf. I hope people call him out on all these points. Call him out on the fact that this show could be any one of the Nine+ collections he made for Saint Laurent.
It's a shame, because from the close-ups, the workmanship is there, real haute couture, its a shame that he can't adapt and evolve even just a bit. Céline shouldn't be Saint Laurent, and as a designer he should be able to diversify whilst staying true to his DNA. Céline much like Chloé and Chanel was a house developed for women by a woman. And Miss Philo addressed that. But that has been dismantled.
Nicolas Ghesquière is a designer that adapted that couture futurist editorial look he had at Balenciaga, to a couture futurist WEARABLE look at Vuitton, and Vuitton has grown for it. But Ghesquière never had questionable taste.
The Semi-circular bag was cute though.
I suggest anyone whose looking for those "Phoebe-isms" should look at Loewe and Victoria Beckham. Both brands clothing and bags are on point.
It's a shame, because from the close-ups, the workmanship is there, real haute couture, its a shame that he can't adapt and evolve even just a bit. Céline shouldn't be Saint Laurent, and as a designer he should be able to diversify whilst staying true to his DNA. Céline much like Chloé and Chanel was a house developed for women by a woman. And Miss Philo addressed that. But that has been dismantled.
Nicolas Ghesquière is a designer that adapted that couture futurist editorial look he had at Balenciaga, to a couture futurist WEARABLE look at Vuitton, and Vuitton has grown for it. But Ghesquière never had questionable taste.
The Semi-circular bag was cute though.
I suggest anyone whose looking for those "Phoebe-isms" should look at Loewe and Victoria Beckham. Both brands clothing and bags are on point.
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Phoebe's bags were effortless and original. This is exactly the opposite - contrived and unoriginal.
He's a creator who hasn't evolved. Based on this he's a has been.
He's a creator who hasn't evolved. Based on this he's a has been.
Well, I guess Hermes and Chanel will be getting more of my money again.
I'm going to run to all Celine boutiques near me to pick up any last minute rtw and shoes ASAP tomorrow.
I'm going to run to all Celine boutiques near me to pick up any last minute rtw and shoes ASAP tomorrow.
Agree with everything you've said. It feels like he has a very narrow scope on what women should be wearing and isn't able to adapt his aesthetic to fit the house he's working in. His entry into womenswear at Saint Laurent and now his movie to Celine was so hyped and I was totally let down both times. I felt maybe Hedi almost hit his stride towards the end of his tenure at Saint Laurent but ye gods, I really don't see what the fuss is about him. I think menswear-wise, he really made a mark. It just doesn't translate into womenswear. I was almost looking forward to this debut because the marketing intrigued me and I do like the 16 bag. I wish LVMH and Kering would stop letting Hedi cannibalise storied French houses off of his hype and just let him open his own line.
I like the 16, and the semi-circular bag is cute too. For goodness sake though, Chloe now also has bags with a large C hardware on it for the latest collection. I'm not a fan of either (though I can appreciate the craftsmanship and quality). I don't care how archival something is. If there's nothing tying it to today or tomorrow, it's really just window dressing.
Ok, it does look way better here. The gold HW makes it. And it definitely suits CL.
I also quite like the first of the runway looks posted but probably only because it looks so vintage. I'd probably rather actually find a vintage piece with similar hardware than get something new by Slimane.
Hear hear, how very very well said!!!! Some super interesting articles on these themes: https://garage.vice.com/en_us/article/qva3g5/celine-ss-19-review https://www.refinery29.com/en-us/2018/09/212633/celine-paris-fashion-week-spring-summer-2019
Agree. For me when a designer says "oh this is from the archive" means nothing to me if it is not designed with and eye on the present and future. If it wasn't for that other thread I wouldn't know the Luggage was based on suitcases from the past, Miss. Philo never had to say oh this is from the archive. Just design desirable, beautiful things. But also be aware of the times you live in. Hedi, this isn't the early 00's (Although I'd say his YSL menswear and Dior Homme collections from that era were very good and ELEGANT) society has changed so much, the roles of men, women, ethnicities has evolved and advanced so much. And if you can not evolve, then you'll be left in the past. Tom Ford evolved! All he's being known for is destroying a house and being a cash cow. I completely understand that getting people to spend is important, fashion is a business and needs money. But he should strive for more.
Keep in mind that this was his introductory collection, to lay a basic foundation upon which he will build and expand.
Why should he change who he is for a brand with no real identity beyond Phoebe? Hedi stays true to himself. His work is authentic, honest and sincere to who he is, and that genuineness is why his work resonates with people. It’s what allows him to reach and connect with people, and that’s why he brings in the profits he does. He never fakes it or tries to be someone he is not.
No, he’s not Phoebe Philo. That much has been apparent. But Celine is a business, and he will bring in profits that far exceed her’s, especially with the menswear. That’s why he was chosen to succeed her, even if the timing and optics are very unfortunate in this new era for women. I find his work incredibly empowering and I believe it to be extremely respectful, admiring and reverential towards women, even if he doesn’t entirely understand them. (I wouldn’t buy it if it wasn’t respectful, or if I detected any cynicism towards women or misogyny.) But I can see how a lot of what Phoebe meant for women is lost.
Of course the menswear gets repetitive, but the womenswear did not look anything like his iconic YSL Laurel Canyon (S13), grunge (F13), psych rock (C15), glam (S15), punk (F15), surf sound (C16), festival (S16), or Palladium (PF16) collections. Many of those collections were tied closely to Los Angeles, whereas he looks to be rooting Celine firmly in Paris going forward. Even his menswear at YSL took on a casual, almost thrift store California vibe (cardigans, flannels, beanies, Vans) which was completely absent here.
There were elements of the 80s references he used in S14 and F16. It most strongly recalled his Pre-Fall 15 collection for me.
If you don’t like the handbags, then you don’t like Celine pre-Phoebe. Nothing wrong with that, I don’t much like it either.
If it’s not your cup of tea, then I agree, find another house to follow.
ETA - Would I have liked to see more diversity? Sure. As for modern gender relations, did you see the heels on the men’s shoes? He is all about breaking down gender roles. He feminized the male silhouette. He is not promoting an archetypal, hegemonic masculinity or femininity.
Why should he change who he is for a brand with no real identity beyond Phoebe? Hedi stays true to himself. His work is authentic, honest and sincere to who he is, and that genuineness is why his work resonates with people. It’s what allows him to reach and connect with people, and that’s why he brings in the profits he does. He never fakes it or tries to be someone he is not.
No, he’s not Phoebe Philo. That much has been apparent. But Celine is a business, and he will bring in profits that far exceed her’s, especially with the menswear. That’s why he was chosen to succeed her, even if the timing and optics are very unfortunate in this new era for women. I find his work incredibly empowering and I believe it to be extremely respectful, admiring and reverential towards women, even if he doesn’t entirely understand them. (I wouldn’t buy it if it wasn’t respectful, or if I detected any cynicism towards women or misogyny.) But I can see how a lot of what Phoebe meant for women is lost.
Of course the menswear gets repetitive, but the womenswear did not look anything like his iconic YSL Laurel Canyon (S13), grunge (F13), psych rock (C15), glam (S15), punk (F15), surf sound (C16), festival (S16), or Palladium (PF16) collections. Many of those collections were tied closely to Los Angeles, whereas he looks to be rooting Celine firmly in Paris going forward. Even his menswear at YSL took on a casual, almost thrift store California vibe (cardigans, flannels, beanies, Vans) which was completely absent here.
There were elements of the 80s references he used in S14 and F16. It most strongly recalled his Pre-Fall 15 collection for me.
If you don’t like the handbags, then you don’t like Celine pre-Phoebe. Nothing wrong with that, I don’t much like it either.
If it’s not your cup of tea, then I agree, find another house to follow.
ETA - Would I have liked to see more diversity? Sure. As for modern gender relations, did you see the heels on the men’s shoes? He is all about breaking down gender roles. He feminized the male silhouette. He is not promoting an archetypal, hegemonic masculinity or femininity.
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I'm not liking what Ive seen so far. What I loved about Celine bags was the simplicity,elegance and lack of branding. Locks, tags and ostentatious hardware just don't appeal to me. Just wondering which houses should I look to now?