Joseph Duclos Thread

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Just saw this bag on their IG. So love the look of this. Been looking for an all croc bag in black with non-gold hardware. Im excited to check on their store when I go to Paris to see what other exotic options they have.
Going to Paris doesnt have to be about Hermes lol.

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Gorgeous…. With the black hardware too
It looks like the croco skin has a metallic sheen to it. Stunning!
Do tell us if you get to see it on your visit, curious how it looks IRL.
 
Historically:

White contrasting stitching on tans and browns (sometimes blacks, russet reds and natural) is basically code for country pursuits: riding, shooting, fishing, hunting, not just saddles. Let's remind ourselves, exotics were daywear only too.

Tone on tone neutral leather was for the city or 'dress'.

In contemporary times, white stitching on mid-neutrals has masculine/unisex overtones because it suggests (expensive) sports and the leather looks in-keeping with patina and use.
I think you’re right about the codes, and the use of contrast stitching.
also, from a historical perspective, its only very recently that we have a variety in colour of leathers and of stitching threads. In the past, before chrome tanning, leather colours were limited to black, tan, russet. And the thread was undyed, waxed linen thread, white or off-white in colour. In time they began to use black thread on black leather, but there still wasnt much variety.
Today, manufacturers can use dyed threads (& not always linen thread).
Personally, I like that the Diane has matching thread, it shows up the beauty of the hardware, not just the closure but also the band around the bottom. It would be too busy and distracting with white stitching. I’m sure Ramesh thought of that as he often talks in interviews about the importance of form & line, and attention to metallic parts.
another point - Diane heritage leather isnt just in the chestnut colour, it comes in cocagne blue, red, etc some of them quite bright (esp considering its vegetal tanned). I dont think white stitching would look so good on those colours.
 
I think you’re right about the codes, and the use of contrast stitching.
also, from a historical perspective, its only very recently that we have a variety in colour of leathers and of stitching threads. In the past, before chrome tanning, leather colours were limited to black, tan, russet. And the thread was undyed, waxed linen thread, white or off-white in colour. In time they began to use black thread on black leather, but there still wasnt much variety.
Today, manufacturers can use dyed threads (& not always linen thread).
Personally, I like that the Diane has matching thread, it shows up the beauty of the hardware, not just the closure but also the band around the bottom. It would be too busy and distracting with white stitching. I’m sure Ramesh thought of that as he often talks in interviews about the importance of form & line, and attention to metallic parts.
another point - Diane heritage leather isnt just in the chestnut colour, it comes in cocagne blue, red, etc some of them quite bright (esp considering its vegetal tanned). I dont think white stitching would look so good on those colours.
Actually I got curious about a remark made by someone earlier how the stitching would look lighter eventually as the leather patinas, so I pulled out my Diane messenger to take a look. Yes, the leather is getting a patina , along with a few scuffs & scratches . The thread isnt looking lighter by comparison though and I confirm that white thread on this colour would not look good. Of course, Ramesh could have gone with white thread on the chataignier leather and matching on the others, but hey he’s the one who gets to decide !

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Actually I got curious about a remark made by someone earlier how the stitching would look lighter eventually as the leather patinas, so I pulled out my Diane messenger to take a look. Yes, the leather is getting a patina , along with a few scuffs & scratches . The thread isnt looking lighter by comparison though and I confirm that white thread on this colour would not look good. Of course, Ramesh could have gone with white thread on the chataignier leather and matching on the others, but hey he’s the one who gets to decide !

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@crocodilemonkey, your bag is lovely! Would you be kind enough to tell me what the color and leather is? Thank you in advance!
 
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@crocodilemonkey, your bag is lovely! Would you be kind enough to tell me what the color and leather is? Thank you in advance!
Thank you !
its the Heritage leather in bleu de cocagne. In certain lights it shows purplish tones especially as it develops a patina. I believe it will darken as the patina develops further, so I plan to document the evolution of the colour.
 
Actually I got curious about a remark made by someone earlier how the stitching would look lighter eventually as the leather patinas, so I pulled out my Diane messenger to take a look. Yes, the leather is getting a patina , along with a few scuffs & scratches . The thread isnt looking lighter by comparison though and I confirm that white thread on this colour would not look good. Of course, Ramesh could have gone with white thread on the chataignier leather and matching on the others, but hey he’s the one who gets to decide !

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Omg i love how your bag developed this patina! i used to get so scared of scratching my bags and what not before and used to only want leathers that remained "new" even after use .

But now, the more I learn about leathers and their natural characteristics as well as how brands use lower quality leather (meaning they go thru more chemical coatings and "coverage"), the more I appreciate very premium leathers with very little "treatment" to showcase the near-natural state of the bag -- this is how I finally understood why there is a premium price on smoother finish, full grain leather.

So yes, I love that your bag has patina'd so beautifully ❤️❤️ JD leather (as long as Ramesh is around as creative director), is really on a premium league of its own ❤️
 
Thanks for sharing @allanrvj, I loved the eye candy. I'm looking forward to a visit to the boutique! While I love looking at the bags I'm not sure they're a good mix with my aesthetic; still stumped by the bling factor....
you're welcome. and same, tbh

that's why I'm leaning towards the Saint-Clair. it's the more casual one between the two initial models, and fits my lifestyle more
 
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I have answers for you directly from Ramesh Nair in bold below!

What are the available colors for ostrich Dianes? Curious to know why we didn't see any navy, royal blue, or blue-dominant violet ostrich Dianes in this presentation, when at Hermès, it's usually black and a type of blue that's always available for ostrich a la carte orders.

The Diane in ostrich is made to order, after discussion with interested clients. Currently, there are the following colours available in the store: aubergine, chestnut and grey, one example of each.
Ramesh makes the colour decision based on the selection of the best skins and his personal affinity for colours in different leathers. He finds that ostrich skin is best revealed in certain colours, and he did not feel that black and blue bring out the natural texture of this leather. If a client wishes to order a Diane ostrich in black or blue, that could be possible.

How much did the one of a kind Diane L20 lizard with rose gold hardware sold for?
The one-of-a-kind Diane in mother-of-pearl lizard skin with rose gold hardware, is priced at 16,000 Euros.

Are there any plans to introduce mixed material bags? Like what Hermès did with barenia-toile Kellys and Birkins. A mix of Heritage calf and cream canvas Diane L26, for example, would be great.
Ramesh has created mixed material bags in the past, including at Joseph Duclos - for example, the Saint Clair bag with crocodile leather flap on a body of vegetable-tanned natural cowhide.

He has not used canvas for Joseph Duclos as this is purely a leather brand in its DNA; it may happen sometime in the future, but only if it makes sense for the brand. The specific mix of materials has to make sense for the brand story, and not be forced.

Is the all-black hardware available for special order in combination with non-exotic leathers such as black Heritage or black Lumière?
All-black hardware is technically complex, expensive and time-consuming in production. This is why for the moment Ramesh prefers to restrict it to exotic leathers.
He is planning to use it in combination with certain Heritage or other leathers, for special orders or limited edition series, hopefully in the near future.

Are there plans to introduce new bag styles in the future? More specifically, are there plans to use the Arpège nubuck in other bag styles aside from the Saint-Claire messenger?
Ramesh always has new bags in the pipeline, often he holds back in order not to overwhelm the collection with newness each season while previous models have not yet had the time to be appreciated. It is a long process to develop new bags, and he works closely with artisans to master the techniques needed for each style. It would be a pity to continually push out new styles instead of applying value to the artisans’ work.

Ramesh does not follow trends and market studies, a lot of what he decides to launch comes from a craft technique or a material that he is interested in. The Arpège leather is one of Ramesh’s favourite leathers, and he may use it for a new style in the future.
 
I have answers for you directly from Ramesh Nair in bold below!



The Diane in ostrich is made to order, after discussion with interested clients. Currently, there are the following colours available in the store: aubergine, chestnut and grey, one example of each.
Ramesh makes the colour decision based on the selection of the best skins and his personal affinity for colours in different leathers. He finds that ostrich skin is best revealed in certain colours, and he did not feel that black and blue bring out the natural texture of this leather. If a client wishes to order a Diane ostrich in black or blue, that could be possible.

The one-of-a-kind Diane in mother-of-pearl lizard skin with rose gold hardware, is priced at 16,000 Euros.


Ramesh has created mixed material bags in the past, including at Joseph Duclos - for example, the Saint Clair bag with crocodile leather flap on a body of vegetable-tanned natural cowhide.

He has not used canvas for Joseph Duclos as this is purely a leather brand in its DNA; it may happen sometime in the future, but only if it makes sense for the brand. The specific mix of materials has to make sense for the brand story, and not be forced.

All-black hardware is technically complex, expensive and time-consuming in production. This is why for the moment Ramesh prefers to restrict it to exotic leathers.
He is planning to use it in combination with certain Heritage or other leathers, for special orders or limited edition series, hopefully in the near future.

Ramesh always has new bags in the pipeline, often he holds back in order not to overwhelm the collection with newness each season while previous models have not yet had the time to be appreciated. It is a long process to develop new bags, and he works closely with artisans to master the techniques needed for each style. It would be a pity to continually push out new styles instead of applying value to the artisans’ work.

Ramesh does not follow trends and market studies, a lot of what he decides to launch comes from a craft technique or a material that he is interested in. The Arpège leather is one of Ramesh’s favourite leathers, and he may use it for a new style in the future.
Thank you so much, Megs! Appreciate you and the JD team.<3
 
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