SUCH a great question! If I were a betting woman, I think H would want to position itself as a go to for high-end make up artists as a finishing product (at this moment I just don’t think that H cosmetics have the horsepower to be mainstay application products like MU4ever or Armani or even Fenty or “unbranded” theatrical makeup). Like I think they would be ecstatic if Cate Blanchett’s MUA said we topped off the look with Hermès lip oil in shade XYZ. They, however, are simply not making formulations in depth enough to be full red carpet looks. I do, however, wonder if they’ll ever go down the route of a celeb face for beauty.
For every day buyers, I do think they care about quality because there’s a lot to lose. Most H makeup customers are already clients of the brand (versus other luxury brands who eventually cultivate RTW clients from their cosmetics buyers). While they are working on developing some level of recession-proof first floor clientele, H’s main focus now and in the past has been on top tier clients. Alienating big spenders with a poor blush formulation is a bad look. Which is why I agree with
@880 that established SAs don’t spend a ton of time with their $$ clients in the cosmetics sections. Again if I were a betting gal, I would believe it’s because they want to give those products lines a bit more time to be proven out before they actually recommend for purchase.
ETA: to answer your question more directly…
I think H sees the financial benefit in developing a cosmetics line. I truly think some customers were clamoring for it and they responded (now when will they listen to our cries for sunglasses). It’s neither a selfish grab nor is it altruistic. I do think they overestimated how much the product market has developed over the last 15 years and (with hubris) by keeping the line in house are missing out on cutting edge chemical science. I’ve no doubt that they will improve, but likely will cap out at Chanel level (and that will take time). I think they care but got caught up in anything you can do, I can do better and failed.