Scarves Hermes Carre Club

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My best friend asked me yesterday if I would like to visit the exhibition in Paris. I just came home from London and have booked a trip to Paris in Januari, but this is so tempting...
 
Here are some pictures from the event
I was expecting to see more designers ! It was a nice event all the same :smile:
 

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Thank you for sharing, @monteverdi! :yw: Here’s the article translated via Google. :smile:

Bali Barret: "Drawing is a discipline of excellence and modesty dear to Hermes"

INTERVIEW - Bali Barret, artistic director of the Hermès women's universe, invites to discover the men, the know-how and the imaginary behind the compositions and figures of her squares, at the Carreau du Temple, in Paris. Exciting.

By Hélène Guillaume
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A square Hermes is recognizable among a thousand. No need for an expert eye to feel the beauty of the fabric, appreciate the intensity of the colors, be sensitive to the precision of the product. But we forget all too often the artists behind this textile geometry crazy heritage - more than 3,000 drawings since the first saddler in 1937. With this event in Paris Hermès Carré Club, Bali Barret devotes them a living exhibition, stuffed with fantasy, featuring all kinds of workshops where visitors will have the opportunity to interact with the draftsmen, proposing thematic discussions, tutorials to learn how to tie their own square and even a hook radio named Carré OK. Meeting with a pasionaria of the silk.
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Bandana Ex Libris, limited edition, on sale exclusively during the Hermès Carré Club days. The flower studio

LE FIGARO. - Why design at the heart of this Hermès Square Club?
Bali BARRET. - Because we often talk about colors, objects, know-how, but rarely drawing, which is the heart of the square. This discipline that everyone has practiced one day, fascinates me. Children do it before they even speak and write. Some stop growing up ... the others become artists. I find a particular fondness for drawing that is not a work of art, which is more modest than art. These are the first fruits of creation. I read, on this subject, that historically we did not show them, they were considered as the draft of a work. With time, the drawing got its right to exist, rising to the rank of discipline in its own right, at the same time in the excellence and the modesty, which corresponds to the posture of Hermès: to do very well and beautiful.

The drawing is even a family atavism at Hermès.

That's right, it's important in this house, for many reasons. First a tradition in the Dumas family. Robert Dumas, the grandfather of Pierre-Alexis ( Dumas, artistic director of Hermès, Ed. ) Already cultivated this passion for drawing. He is one of the great founders of the square, which will be one of the starting points of the diversification of Hermès, after the upholstery. In the 1920s, Émile Hermès, father-in-law of Robert Dumas had started buying scarves from a supplier who was in contact with printing workshops in Lyon, but the models did not necessarily correspond to what Robert Dumas would have done. . He therefore proposed to Émile Hermès to choose objects from his personal collection around the equestrian world, harnesses, stirrups, which he assembled in composition on the floor asking that it be reproduced on a square. It is this way of composing that we want to show to the public, with Hermès Carré Club, which marks the difference between a print and a drawing. A print is a repetitive pattern, a graphic representation imagined for a textile object. With us, it's a drawing that we put on silk, it's a hand, a line, a way of composing in a format. A square is a strange format for a drawing - naturally rectangular - complex to apprehend for illustrators.
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Square Happy Meetings Flamingo in the Wind, limited edition, on sale exclusively during the days Hermès Square Club. The flower studio

When did the square become emblematic of the house?
Under the Robert Dumas period with first square, in 1937, "Game of Omnibus and White Ladies", a kind of game of goose with cars on horseback. He knew many illustrators, responding to his desires. Later, Jean-Louis ( Dumas, emblematic boss of Hermès from 1978 to 2006 ) who did a lot of sketches, who had a very strong taste for drawing, continued to showcase the silk and calls on his son, Pierre-Alexis, whom he knew he was cultivating the same fiber. In 2004, Pierre-Alexis who wanted to bring new blood and a different look on the square, asked me to work on a series "Belle Silk". My first steps into the house, I still had my mark in my name.

What was this first brief?
He had given me carte blanche, the only mission was to return at the end, a square Hermes. It was dizzying, but I think it's the best of briefs.There is no archetype, no ready-made recipe. Moreover, the opposite would be scary, it would mean that the creation is useless. What counts to realize, to understand the square is a sensitivity, a feeling and a culture.

That you had...
Let's say I had a mix of classical culture and alternative culture, a contemporary look. I was French, Pierre-Alexis knew that I had squares Hermes - they came from a beautiful collection of the mother of my fiance at the time! This woman had three daughters who did not care, they found them far too classic. While I was thrilled: I diverted his squares wearing miniskirt with fishnet stockings and a small leather jacket in the 1990s.

Was not it too conformist for the young Parisian that you were?
No, I found them classics, and I liked this form of academism. Is not that excellence? What's interesting is what we do with it. I always find it exciting to start from academism and to push it, exaggerate it, make it a strength. This is the identity of this house.

What did you join as a result of this first collaboration?
Yes, Pierre-Alexis, who succeeded his father in his role as artistic director, asked me to be the artistic director of the women's silk. He appreciated my exterior and contemporary look at this legacy that might seem overwhelming. But inheritance must be lived as a plus, as a source of inspiration ... or not! When we unzip a square, what is it? A surface where everything is possible, where you can express yourself in many ways. The only requirement, whatever the style, the hand, the story is excellence.

What makes a drawing successful?
It's hard to say. The writing, immaterial way, evolves with the time.What is considered a square Hermes fifteen years ago is very different from today. The artistic vocabulary has opened considerably. One understands a Hermès square by the excellence of the drawing.
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Square Happy Dating Court Bride, limited edition, exclusive during the Hermès Square Club days. The flower studio

How do you explain that even a neophyte can recognize a square Hermes?
I have a theory. Our path is such that there is an intensity in a square, that we feel without having to analyze it. The intensity does not fall from the sky, it is the result of a dialogue, hours spent with a designer, to refine, explain, dig ... Same requirement with engravers. Between the finished drawing and the drawing printed in a shop, two years pass. It is long, two years to refine the subject, the quality of the printing, the depth of the colors, it is a sum of know-how. The same thing badly executed, does not have this intensity. Moreover, in France, the square is almost as well known as the Eiffel Tower. A kind of object that is part of the heritage. And the goal of Carré Club is to go behind the scenes of the creative workshop and set the record straight in the founding country, remember that behind these drawings, there are people alive .The public is not necessarily aware of the contemporaneity of our team of designers, who are between 20 and 40 years old, of different nationalities, different backgrounds, different styles. We set up this event in New York, a year ago, customers had their squares signed by the designers, real rock stars! ( Laughter. ) There is a real emotional connection to the square. It's a wonder for people to discover that it's not just a printed object that an artist is behind. Our age has a need for authenticity, incarnation, the younger generations are sensitive to it.

The square is also one of the Hermès products most accessible to young people.
Exactly. Compared to leather and ready-to-wear, which are more serious worlds, the square escapes this statutory side. It is also the ideal medium to express the fantasy so dear to Hermes.

How do you choose your illustrators?
With the studio Drawing, we are researcher heads, in trade shows, exhibitions, on social networks, in books ... What counts is the meeting.We are looking for interesting personalities but especially able to draw a square! Very good illustrators do not succeed, inhibited by the format, the aura of the house. Once we have identified a profile, we go into the details of his work, the originality, " Is it a real good draftsman? With computers, it's easy to do some tricks. I always ask that they come with their sketchbook. Mastery is the key to drawing, which is a great school of understanding volumes, composition ...

Are there any taboos in the drawing?
Two forbidden: no sex, no blood! The square is still around the neck, near the face! For the rest, the themes are eclectic.

How many new drawings do you create per collection?
More and more. Today, a collection has a quarter of reissues and the rest of creations, about thirty new designs each season. And that should not stop with the new formats and the latest innovations. Like the double-sided square that we are going to release in the spring of 2020. It's been almost ten years since we've been working on this square printed on both sides. The idea came to me from a square of silk that I had found in a military surplus, printed with a different staff map on each side. So I went to see my printers who told me it was impossible ... I never let them go ( laughs ).

Hermès Carré Club, discussions, meetings, introductions to the art of knotting ..., from November 29 to December 8, Carreau du Temple, 4, rue Eugène-Spuller (Paris 3e). Program and booking on hermes.com/carreclub
 
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