to keep from getting "orange-y", I'd use a red lipstain 1st then pick up "russian red" by MAC and put it over the lipstain once it dries. Since russian red is matte (not shiny) you have the option of putting a gloss over it if you want more sheen. Oh and dont forget to blot! hope tis helps
Go to your favorite beauty counter, choose 4 or 5 of their reds. Now line them all up and compare them. You will notice some are more brown, orange, pink or blue. I find the reds with tinge of blue to be the most sophisticated reds of all.
Chanel used to make some stunning blue reds. Their newest reds are Rivoli and Lune Rousse (latter may have shimmer).
Another vote for Russian Red by MAC. It comes both in a matte lipstick and a gloss go you can go with either (or both!). I also tend to turn reds orangish, and this one is more blue based and stays red on me.