Thanks! When I find a bargain, I go for it. This bag's a keeper!You did an amazing job on that cute little tote!
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Thanks! When I find a bargain, I go for it. This bag's a keeper!You did an amazing job on that cute little tote!
I personally like the stripe. But if you are waffly about it, I would let it sit for a while and see how I would get accustomed to that stripe.I'm thinking BLACK. Covers a multitude of "oops." First experiment: dye that strip only black, and see how that looks. Maybe, interesting, maybe, cute. If not, the whole bag black.
Great advice! I'm liking the "stripe."I personally like the stripe. But if you are waffly about it, I would let it sit for a while and see how I would get accustomed to that stripe.
I have had mixed results when dunking because the ink does tend to spread. A lot!! I had a bag I had to totally re-dye because of it! Another bag had a tiny bit of ink, and that did not spread. What color is your bag. My best advice about dunking with ink stain: don't!Hello, I have a question that I haven't been able to find an answer for here on the forums. My vintage Coach bag has an old ink stain. I can tell that someone tried to remove it because there is some color fade on the area around the stain. I'm totally fine with leaving the stain 'as is'. I am, however, wondering if I can dunk this bag as part of its refurbishing, or will a dunk potentially lead to the ink spreading? Thanks for your help!
Thank you Connie! Your advice and photo evidence have helped me make the decision not to dunk. The bag is British Tan btw...lovely patina and the ink stain is on the backside.I have had mixed results when dunking because the ink does tend to spread. A lot!! I had a bag I had to totally re-dye because of it! Another bag had a tiny bit of ink, and that did not spread. What color is your bag. My best advice about dunking with ink stain: don't!
I now use painters tape, or worst case masking tape - for edge kote these days. It isn't perfect because the tape doesn't fully protect against the textured leathers like yours - but it does help. It would have helped here.This rehab has gone seriously wrong!Gotta figure out what to do. I got this burgundy bag on shopgoodwill. Looked to be in fairly OK shape except top seam was completely separated and edging missing. Conditioning brought back the color nicely and seemed to cover the scrapes to the point of unnoticable. I glued the top back together. It's meant to be "flutey." Then I used black edge kote. Many layers. Ooops. Got edge kote where it didn't belong on the colored area. The bag sat around for quite awhile. When I came back to it, I forgot it was maroon-y burgundy (it looked brown) and I used some brown dye in the spot where the black edge kote got smeared. It looks HORRIBLE now. Should I try to find a burgundy dye and re-do that area. I'm thinking of dying the whole bag black at this point.
I was free and easy with the edge kote liquid, just rubbing it on the bag with my finger. (usually I use a paint brush). I think the answer is to stop buying bags that have missing edging.I now use painters tape, or worst case masking tape - for edge kote these days. It isn't perfect because the tape doesn't fully protect against the textured leathers like yours - but it does help. It would have helped here.
Edge kote is super hard to work with. It is so thin that it runs everywhere. You have to be super patient and put it on in tiny layers, which takes forever. I think there are probably other brands that would be easier to use.I was free and easy with the edge kote liquid, just rubbing it on the bag with my finger. (usually I use a paint brush). I think the answer is to stop buying bags that have missing edging.
Sorry, I meant STAIN REMOVER, not steamy mover. If you dictate rather than type you’ve gotta proofread!!I see several recent queries about ink stains. I recently read about an a steamy mover that specializes in getting rid of ink stains called Amodex. It was reviewed in the New York Times’ Wirecutter section as being the best fabric stain remover on the market. I’m wondering if any of you have tried it on leather?
Hi, Lola! Some people are "anti-dunk," which I don't fully understand. They use saddle soap and wiping instead. I like dunking. When I dunk, I don't soak. Just scrub it around for a few minutes in the water, then rinse. One big recommendation here is to use vinegar in the rinse water (kills mold, if any). I stuff with bubble wrap while drying. Some use towels. And I put on a layer of leather CPR while still wet. And then more, and more (as needed). Generally a day or a half day between applications. I really let it dry good. (Had some issues before with mold appearing on not fully dry bags.) Then the blackrock. If needed along the way, re-glueing, retouching dye, polishing hardware, sometimes replacing hardware. These bags are resilient and come back looking amazing.Hello Friendly Rehabbers,
Sadly, I haven't visited this forum or rehabbed a bag in a few years 😕. Oh how I've missed it! I want to get back into it, and recently purchased a black Daypack 9791 in really good condition (although I forgot to have it authenticated here 😳). Blame it on my menopausal brain fog, but I'm not too confident that I remember all the steps in the correct order, for the process... Here's what I remember (in this order): 1) Dunk in Dawn/dish soap warm water bath, let it soak for 20ish minutes (Scrub?); 2) Rinse well; 3) Stuff with hand towels to shape; 4) Allow to dry for 24 hours; 5) Apply Leather CPR (Buff? Multiple coats? Overnight? 🧐); 6) Apply Blackrock leather n'rich, with fingers, then buff (Multiple coats? Overnight?)... and Enjoy my beautiful rehab!
Did I miss anything or get it wrong? I would sincerely appreciate your input... and corrections to the above process... Thank you! 🥰