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There's a black Made in the US Legacy Zip 9966 on Mercari listed for $12 plus $8 shipping. It's worn but appears intact (except it seems to be missing the hangtag) see link below. I'm not an authenticator but it looks okay to me.

Edited: Nevermind, it's already sold, did someone from TPF get it?


That is a terrific deal! I love the 9966!
I've rehabbed 9 for friends and family since last summer and forgot to keep one for myself! :facepalm: :lol:
 
Update: I decided against spinning it because it wouldn't actually remove the polish - that only comes off with actually rubbing it off. It doesn't soak, rinse or scrub off in water and it's almost completely waterproof. The leather only saturated with water from the underside.

I needed something strong enough to penetrate the dubbin-type polish (as identified by the leather professionals on the leatherworker website) and they recommended I use turpentine.

I had seen washing powder be suggested and decided to start with that which we already have before purchasing turps (had already tried acetone, non-acetone nail polish remover, Saphir Renomat, fairy etc) and it was the best out of everything I've tried! I've been slathering powder mixed into a paste onto the bag, leaving it for a while, then rubbing with a cloth and it removes so much more. It saturated the cloth with thick black goo whereas any other chemical I tried barely greyed the cloths.

Unfortunately we were already running out of it so I'm completely out of washing powder now. When I can, I'm going to pick up a few packs of the cheapest washing powders I can find and get to work. I've barely made a dent but seeing the goo come off was so motivating! The process was easier on damp rather than soaked leather so I won't dunk when I repeat the process - I'll just lay the paste right on.

@pammbw just thought I'd tag you to let you know.
:clap: For your ambition.
 
Update: I decided against spinning it because it wouldn't actually remove the polish - that only comes off with actually rubbing it off. It doesn't soak, rinse or scrub off in water and it's almost completely waterproof. The leather only saturated with water from the underside.

I needed something strong enough to penetrate the dubbin-type polish (as identified by the leather professionals on the leatherworker website) and they recommended I use turpentine.

I had seen washing powder be suggested and decided to start with that which we already have before purchasing turps (had already tried acetone, non-acetone nail polish remover, Saphir Renomat, fairy etc) and it was the best out of everything I've tried! I've been slathering powder mixed into a paste onto the bag, leaving it for a while, then rubbing with a cloth and it removes so much more. It saturated the cloth with thick black goo whereas any other chemical I tried barely greyed the cloths.

Unfortunately we were already running out of it so I'm completely out of washing powder now. When I can, I'm going to pick up a few packs of the cheapest washing powders I can find and get to work. I've barely made a dent but seeing the goo come off was so motivating! The process was easier on damp rather than soaked leather so I won't dunk when I repeat the process - I'll just lay the paste right on.

@pammbw just thought I'd tag you to let you know.

That's good news, what was the washing powder that was recommended to remove the polish?
 
Thank you to everyone for all the wonderful tips on how to rehab Coach. I've very much enjoyed working on vintage coach bags and sorta bringing them back to life. I have a quick question - apparently a court bag I bought and rehabbed was a fake - do you try to salvage any of the hardware etc to use in the future on other bags or basically just trash the entire thing? I'm considering keeping the strap and snap hooks, d rings and turn lock if nothing else as they seem to be brass (even if they aren't coach). Prices on brass replacement parts aren't exactly super cheap unless you're buying in bulk. Also I've thought about maybe just salvaging the leather and using it to make a card holder or something like that (rather ambitious but if the leather is going to be trashed anyway then I won't feel bad if I screw it up). Any thoughts or suggestions?

Using the bag is up to you. It's still a full grain leather bag and has beauty and usefulness. I have bought fakes by mistake and I remove the branding and use them myself. I can't in good conscience throw a perfectly good item in the trash. Selling them is obviously not an option. Salvaging parts is a good idea, as is upcycling the leather.
 
That's good news, what was the washing powder that was recommended to remove the polish?
I can't remember but I don't think they named a specific brand. I tried to find the page but can't. I'll try to dig around later after work. I just bought the cheapest bio one I found. I should've rinsed and conditioned the bag as it dried as it's cardboard-y now, whoops. Laid a layer of paste on it and will go back to it in a mo.

ETA: working with a cup of paste and a cup of clear hot water with a damp bag is moving the most gunk off for me so far.
 
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Update: I decided against spinning it because it wouldn't actually remove the polish - that only comes off with actually rubbing it off. It doesn't soak, rinse or scrub off in water and it's almost completely waterproof. The leather only saturated with water from the underside.

I needed something strong enough to penetrate the dubbin-type polish (as identified by the leather professionals on the leatherworker website) and they recommended I use turpentine.

I had seen washing powder be suggested and decided to start with that which we already have before purchasing turps (had already tried acetone, non-acetone nail polish remover, Saphir Renomat, fairy etc) and it was the best out of everything I've tried! I've been slathering powder mixed into a paste onto the bag, leaving it for a while, then rubbing with a cloth and it removes so much more. It saturated the cloth with thick black goo whereas any other chemical I tried barely greyed the cloths.

Unfortunately we were already running out of it so I'm completely out of washing powder now. When I can, I'm going to pick up a few packs of the cheapest washing powders I can find and get to work. I've barely made a dent but seeing the goo come off was so motivating! The process was easier on damp rather than soaked leather so I won't dunk when I repeat the process - I'll just lay the paste right on.

@pammbw just thought I'd tag you to let you know.

Thank you for the suggestion! I will definitely try it. I'll post about the new products I tried and the results of a couple new rehabs in a couple days. So much wonderful research, experimentation and knowledge gained on this forum! Love being a part of it!
 
Hi, everyone! I just bought this 65th anniversary hippie.

https://poshmark.com/listing/Coach-...25-crossbody-whiskey-6097f5cfe107bb388f7f5ea5

As you can see, she's gonna need a lot of help. I usually use Leather CPR and black rocks on my other bags, but I was thinking maybe this one might need something even more rich than the CPR to rehydrate the leather. I plan to give her a good dunk first, but I'm not expecting miracles. I am mostly hoping to be able to even out the color on the flap. What do you wise rehabbers think?
 
Hi, everyone! I just bought this 65th anniversary hippie.

https://poshmark.com/listing/Coach-...25-crossbody-whiskey-6097f5cfe107bb388f7f5ea5

As you can see, she's gonna need a lot of help. I usually use Leather CPR and black rocks on my other bags, but I was thinking maybe this one might need something even more rich than the CPR to rehydrate the leather. I plan to give her a good dunk first, but I'm not expecting miracles. I am mostly hoping to be able to even out the color on the flap. What do you wise rehabbers think?

I love the 65th anniversary bags, nice find! I use Leather Therapy Restorer and Conditioner first to rehydrate very dry bags. It comes in larger bottles but this is the 8 oz bottle if you want to try it and see if you like it.

 
I love the 65th anniversary bags, nice find! I use Leather Therapy Restorer and Conditioner first to rehydrate very dry bags. It comes in larger bottles but this is the 8 oz bottle if you want to try it and see if you like it.


Thank you! I agree - 65th anni bags are glorious.

And thank you for the suggestion! Just to clarify, when you said you use the leather therapy first, you mean after dunking and before Black rocks, right? I want to make sure I understand clearly so I don't screw up.
 
Thank you! I agree - 65th anni bags are glorious.

And thank you for the suggestion! Just to clarify, when you said you use the leather therapy first, you mean after dunking and before Black rocks, right? I want to make sure I understand clearly so I don't screw up.

I would give it some moisture before dunking to prevent any excessive drying of the leather. I would also probably pull out the lining and work on that ink stain before the dunk. Don't want it to bleed onto the leather.
 
Finished rehabbing my $35 Duffle Sac find! It is such a pretty shade of Mahogany.
Before:
C36AB7C1-0C27-4BEB-B33B-6A053F074855.jpegA7CA3B69-7FA7-45BE-B0F1-42B153324039.jpeg640FF27C-9B2A-437E-922F-75ACCF5671A1.jpeg
After a bath, lots of coats of CPR, 1 application of Obenauf’s Heavy Duty LP, and 1 application of Blackrocks Leather’n’rich:
12CEFCE5-3D5F-4E6F-827D-A792C834076C.jpeg735461C4-14F2-440A-A5E6-2096E25FC67C.jpegD3955D90-15AD-40D5-8209-1C00E3E0112A.jpegB79E0433-52B0-47C0-AA73-7AD2DB876374.jpeg
It had these word down spots on the piping; I used a combination of brown, black, and red Saphir Creme Renovatrice to cover the raw leather.
 
Thank you! I agree - 65th anni bags are glorious.

And thank you for the suggestion! Just to clarify, when you said you use the leather therapy first, you mean after dunking and before Black rocks, right? I want to make sure I understand clearly so I don't screw up.

When I have a very dry bag that is dirty and needs dunking. I give it a bath first, stuff it to dry and while it is still damp I apply the Leather Therapy oil to keep it from cracking while drying, later I apply Leather CPR and then finish with Black Rocks.

I have dunked several 65th Anniversary bags with good results but it's always in the back of my mind that some of the early bags were vachetta leather and there were reports of color transfer. I usually try to research the bag first on TPF and the Wayback to find out if it was made of vachetta. I haven't dunked a vachetta bag yet. Your bag will probably be fine but you may want to try and find out if anyone has already had experience rehabbing and dunking that bag.

The before and after pics below are of the rehab of my Thompson Julia and it was probably the most scary 65th anniversary bag I've rehabbed but it really needed a bath and it came out well, good luck!


 
When I have a very dry bag that is dirty and needs dunking. I give it a bath first, stuff it to dry and while it is still damp I apply the Leather Therapy oil to keep it from cracking while drying, later I apply Leather CPR and then finish with Black Rocks.

I have dunked several 65th Anniversary bags with good results but it's always in the back of my mind that some of the early bags were vachetta leather and there were reports of color transfer. I usually try to research the bag first on TPF and the Wayback to find out if it was made of vachetta. I haven't dunked a vachetta bag yet. Your bag will probably be fine but you may want to try and find out if anyone has already had experience rehabbing and dunking that bag.

The before and after pics below are of the rehab of my Thompson Julia and it was probably the most scary 65th anniversary bag I've rehabbed but it really needed a bath and it came out well, good luck!



Thank you! I read a blog post someone wrote where she rehabbed a 65th vachetta Leigh, and she did pretty much exactly what you do, but because of the vachetta she dried a quickly as possible to prevent bleeding/color transfer. As far as I've researched in the past, I don't think it's vachetta, but I'm going to try to get it dry as quickly as possible just in case, and go from there.

Also, forgot to add that that Thompson came out GORGEOUS. One of my dream bags, very jealous!
 
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I would give it some moisture before dunking to prevent any excessive drying of the leather. I would also probably pull out the lining and work on that ink stain before the dunk. Don't want it to bleed onto the leather.

How long should I let the moisture sink in before dunking? And should I use the CPR for that, or one of the more oil-based ones?
 
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