Mousseline friends, many of you who have been following this thread for years have heard me blather on endlessly about how much I love mousselines. They are my favorite, favorite thing Hermes makes. Even the ones I've had the longest still make my heart pitter-patter when I pull them out. So I'm not thrilled to need to post a rant/lament/PSA here regarding the quality of current mousselines.
Everyone, please please please, if you are buying mousselines from this season or 2017, CHECK YOUR MOUSSELINES THOROUGHLY in the boutique, held up in a decently-lit area, before taking them home.
Yesterday I received a stole I was very excited about, the Savana Dance in a fabulous absinthe green with peach accents. It was sent brand-new from the web shop and shipped to store. Having had negative experiences with the quality of last summer's mousselines, I asked the SA to unfurl it for my inspection. I was horrified to see around a dozen pulls and fractures in the fabric. We unfurled a different colorway that the boutique had. Same thing, albeit slightly less pervasive. See the pics for a couple of examples of what I mean.
These would be easy enough to miss if you weren't looking carefully, but they should NOT be present in a brand-new mousseline. Frankly, my oldest mousselines wouldn't even show these types of problems even if you ran over them with a mack truck. Post-2007, sure, some of them will eventually show little slubs in the fabric, which look a bit like the textured areas of shantung silk. But nothing like this, and pulls don't occur in any of them up to summer 2017 without something actually snagging on them.
What changed in summer 2017? According to a lovely SA who is the scarf buyer for her boutique, Hermes has decided to produce the mousselines using thinner threads. Supposedly people complained that they were "too hot." I have my suspicions about the corporate rationale for this change, but whether or not they really changed thing at customers' insistence, I can't see it as anything but a change for the worse. Mousselines I saw last summer without pulls, even brand-new from the cellophane, were the exception, not the rule. My Iris mousseline is fragile in the extreme, and has to be babied to survive being knotted. When packed, it emerges with creases and crinkles looking sad and squashed.
Do I freak out when one of my mousselines gets a slub or a pull because I've worn it many many times, or when I've done something to cause a problem with my own carelessness? Certainly not. Do I think it's unacceptable for Hermes to sell mousselines that are so inherently frail that they couldn't even survive packing and transit to the customer without showing damage? Oh most certainly I do. And my tolerance for declining quality varies inversely with the ever-steeper prices that H is charging. If I didn't know they could do better, I wouldn't be stomping my foot over this-- but I have 34 pre-2017 mousselines in my drawers that say otherwise.
Check your moussies, everyone! No judgement here if you find a bunch of pulls and decide to buy one anyway. If anyone understands being overcome by the beauty of the mousselines, it's me. I myself am asking H to send me a pristine replacement for the Savana stole, even though I know that seeing so many new mousselines with these problems means they will not wear with the hardiness of the older mousselines. But I absolutely won't buy one that is damaged from the get-go, and if customer comments are what drive H's changes to the mousselines, this customer has a lot to tell them! If you've experienced this same issue, do let your SA and H customer service know. I would hate to see the mousseline format (which has dwindled from two seasons and four formats to one season and two formats) die out entirely, and I do believe that if people have bad experiences with their durability, they'll cease to sell and H will kill them completely.
Okay, rant/advisory notice over! I promise I'll make up for this grouchy post with pretty pics of some new-to-me (but older issue!) additions soon.
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calexandre, thank you for this excellent post; I'd noticed the thinness on one of the Savanah Dance stoles but as the cw was not to my liking I didn't ask to see the whole thing. I guess I'm glad I passed but I'm sorely disappointed to hear this news.