The new leathers are obviously treated. Now, with technology, leathers are mixed with treatments and products to either prolong their wear, protect against scratches, rubbing of corners, and/or achieve different finishes that were not previously possible.
Is this cutting costs? Being cheap? Or trying to be innovative? All these different finishes, colors, textures that we have been seeing in the past 7-8 years were not previously possible.
I really, really agree with this.
Chanel is a fashion house that built its prestige thanks to its haute couture collections. Its bags are, before anything else, fashion bags that were never really intended to be used for the working woman of the 21st century. The original 2.55, worn by Coco Chanel on a number of photos, wasn't even made out of leather but in either jersey or satin - materials that wear very easily in bags and accessories. These bags were always meant to be enjoyed for leisure.
This doesn't excuse the defects in their leather bags. But I'm not sure Chanel is the best choice if you're looking for a bag that can withstand a lot of wear - even the leather ones, whether in caviar or lambskin, wrinkle, flatten around the edges and lose their puffiness when used regularly (all of the pristine vintage bags that are on for sale just weren't used that often or were taken care of to such an extent that I have doubts about whether the previous owner actually enjoyed them properly).
If Chanel is using different treatments and/or materials to prolong the esthetics of a bag (because I hate using the word "durability" when it comes to having the bag look as new as possible for as long as possible - for me, "durability" means that the bag won't fall apart), then why not? Isn't that the biggest complaint from most shoppers, that their bags have scuffs, wrinkles and tears? Unfortunately, leather is leather - even if it's much more resistant than satin and jersey, it doesn't matter if it's the highest grade possible, leather will scratch and lose its shape with use. Without use of some sort of treatment/finishing and/or synthetic materials, leather will continue to wear.
There's an overall trend these days where people think that "natural" and "handmade" mean "luxury" and that everything "synthetic" and "natural" is not. Would it surprise you to know that the mentality was completely different, for example, during the 1950s-80s when using the best that industrial sewing machines could provide and testing new synthetic materials were all the rage? In haute couture, for example, some of the stitching wasn't all done by hand - corseting inside of jackets and dresses, for example, was often made by industrial sewing machines because it was much more resistant than handmade ones. Lurex, a synthetic film, was and is still often used by the big houses like Chanel and Dior instead of solid gold and silver thread because gold thread is way too fragile, deforming with wear, and silver rusts!
But I do understand that if you've saved up and decided to buy a Chanel bag that you would expect the best quality. Thankfully, you can always exchange if there's a notable defect like an un uneven flap, stitching that's off or damaged hardware. Just know that even brands like Hermès have problems with their handmade leather bags - I had to exchange a Gold Constance 18 in Evercolor once because the white contrast stitching was so crooked and off everywhere! (And no, this isn't because it was hand stitched - a leather craftsman is capable of doing clean and consistent stitching, this is because Hermès bags, even though handmade, are produced on an industrial scale; the craftsmen have to respect deadlines and that shows in the finishings).