2022 Resolution: Shopping my own bag and SLG collection. Anyone else?

[Katinahat]

2 Aug - brand showcase: A-F
4 Sept - brand showcase: G-L
11 Sept - brand showcase: M-R
18 Sept - brand showcase: S-Z
25 Sept - totes
2 Oct - satchels
9 Oct - crossbodies inc WOCS
16 Oct - shoulder bags
23 Oct - bucket bags
30 Oct - clutches
6 Nov - backpacks
13 Nov - bags that don’t count
20 Nov - pairing bags with shoes
27 Nov - pairing bags with other accessories
4 Dec - bag storage
11 Dec - SLGs
18 Dec - charms

Challenges:
Sept - bags in different locations
Oct - Halloween: wear orange or black bags
Nov - International Merlot Day: wear wine coloured bags or pair bags with wine.
Dec - use the bag.

 

[880]

Is there any trick to finding dead stock?

Where do you shop for clothes? I can see me turn more toward new clothes and less towards bags in the future.

In older clothes there are often three labels:
Designer
Retailer
Fabric mill or other

I have searches set for favorite mid century modern designers; but you can pick any decade that appeals.

for example, when I decided I wanted Norman Foster aluminum chairs (not the navy chair), my search ran for 2+ years before I was able to purchase 12 chairs for 250 each from Florida including shipping

the pickings are slim for what I want now, but again, it’s a matter of waiting. Often an item will not be labeled dead stock but NWT or otherwise be pristine. If an item is not dead stock, I prefer if there were underarm shields, that can be removed, to guard against excessive wear.

I prefer search by designer (Jacques feith, Donald brooks, Adel Simpson, Norman Norell; but will occasionally run a search by store (Ultimo, charivari, Linda dresner, Wilkes bashford, didier ludot, Anna lowe; bonwit teller). or, location, like British Hong Kong. or design element, such as, peplum. I have a continual search for Catherine regher, a canadian designer, bc I used to own the most magic dress ever (40 USD with custom label from Bergdorfs) but I loaned it to my cousin for her wedding after party (and it was left on the floor to be WASHED, probably with third world coconut soap). Urgh. Needless to say, I’ve never loaned my cousin anything else.

As you browse vintage searches, you will come up with other names, either suggested by the search engine or from whatever seller you happen to be perusing. There was once a woman from Iceland selling a warehouse filled with dresses on Etsy.

note: for vintage RTW, it is essential that you know your measurements; the silhouette that works for your body type. Also, factor in cost of cleaning, refurbishing etc. even dead stock may have linings that have given out (due to the weight or age of the garment etc). For example, my norman Norell coat is one of my favorite pieces, but the lining was not the best quality. It cost the same amount as the purchase price of the cost to have my tailor replace the lining in a very luxurious silk twill.

for fur or leather, be especially careful of condition. IMO it is almost impossible or very costly to rehab a dried pelt. Balding calf hair is a loss. I learned this the hard way when I bought a vintage lizard trench coat (not sure if it was Gucci, but it had a certain disco 70s flair that Tom Ford tried to resurrect). It could not be saved. i spent about 700 USD before giving up. The cost of refurbishment can exceed the cost of the item.



one of my favorite pieces is a wool dress by Donald brooks from a random ebay seller for 57 USD. Such amazing wool fabric is impossible to find nowadays. The inverted pleat and pockets align perfectly

deals like that balance out more expensive vintage finds

also, one last note: pants are hard to fit. It’s possible to size up, but depending on the fabric, there may be marks. Sizing down does not always work. i suspect @cowgirlsboots knows much more about tailoring vintage clothing than I will know in a lifetime, so perhaps she will chime in . If you start buying vintage, go slowly. There is a learning curve and mistakes will be made.

 

[Cordeliere]

In older clothes there are often three labels:
Designer
Retailer
Fabric mill or other

I have searches set for favorite mid century modern designers; but you can pick any decade that appeals.

for example, when I decided I wanted Norman Foster aluminum chairs (not the navy chair), my search ran for 2+ years before I was able to purchase 12 chairs for 250 each from Florida including shipping

the pickings are slim for what I want now, but again, it’s a matter of waiting. Often an item will not be labeled dead stock but NWT or otherwise be pristine. If an item is not dead stock, I prefer if there were underarm shields, that can be removed, to guard against excessive wear.

I prefer search by designer (Jacques feith, Donald brooks, Adel Simpson, Norman Norell; but will occasionally run a search by store (Ultimo, charivari, Linda dresner, Wilkes bashford, didier ludot, Anna lowe; bonwit teller). or, location, like British Hong Kong. or design element, such as, peplum. I have a continual search for Catherine regher, a canadian designer, bc I used to own the most magic dress ever (40 USD with custom label from Bergdorfs) but I loaned it to my cousin for her wedding after party (and it was left on the floor to be WASHED, probably with third world coconut soap). Urgh. Needless to say, I’ve never loaned my cousin anything else.

As you browse vintage searches, you will come up with other names, either suggested by the search engine or from whatever seller you happen to be perusing. There was once a woman from Iceland selling a warehouse filled with dresses on Etsy.

note: for vintage RTW, it is essential that you know your measurements; the silhouette that works for your body type. Also, factor in cost of cleaning, refurbishing etc. even dead stock may have linings that have given out (due to the weight or age of the garment etc). For example, my norman Norell coat is one of my favorite pieces, but the lining was not the best quality. It cost the same amount as the purchase price of the cost to have my tailor replace the lining in a very luxurious silk twill.

for fur or leather, be especially careful of condition. IMO it is almost impossible or very costly to rehab a dried pelt. Balding calf hair is a loss. I learned this the hard way when I bought a vintage lizard trench coat (not sure if it was Gucci, but it had a certain disco 70s flair that Tom Ford tried to resurrect). It could not be saved. i spent about 700 USD before giving up. The cost of refurbishment can exceed the cost of the item.

View attachment 5408398View attachment 5408399View attachment 5408400 View attachment 5408412

one of my favorite pieces is a wool dress by Donald brooks from a random ebay seller for 57 USD. The wool is impossible to find nowadays. The inverted pleat and pockets align perfectly

deals like that balance out more expensive vintage finds

also, one last note: pants are hard to fit. It’s possible to size up, but depending on the fabric, there may be marks. Sizing down does not always work. i suspect @cowgirlsboots knows much more about tailoring vintage clothing than I will know in a lifetime, so perhaps she will chime in . If you start buying vintage, go slowly. There is a learning curve and mistakes will be made.

Thanks for all the fabulous information.

 

[DME]

During Covid, people couldn’t travel. In some cases, there was then more discretionary income to shop

There is also a trickle down effect. If one does not want or cannot afford 4-5 digit prices on premier designer RTW or bags, there are plenty Of other options including vintage

due to social media, vintage became much more popular

Here are a few vintage dead stock pieces that I purchased years ago (pristine bc I had to diet back into them lol)
Bill blass looped wool; ungaro wool moto jacket (matching skirt not shown); and, Adolfo for Saks crotchet jacket and dress
(Cross posted In vintage thread )
View attachment 5408000View attachment 5408001View attachment 5408002View attachment 5408003View attachment 5408004

Always love your looks! And I think I saw in a different thread that the bag is new? Congrats on such a gorgeous purchase!

 

[880]

Always love your looks! And I think I saw in a different thread that the bag is new? Congrats on such a gorgeous purchase!

Thank you so much @DME!

 

[Katinahat]

We totally lucked into Benares. It turned out a good friend from home was in London the same week as we were and I realized this might be the case about halfway through the trip. We had lunch with him and his friend from Poland one day and had so much fun that we scheduled dinner the next night; he recommended Benares because his neighbor from home always talks about it. The meal was divine and that trip is a favorite memory! DH and I both had the amazing lobster dish in the below photo.

View attachment 5407939

Looks like a gorgeous meal!

During Covid, people couldn’t travel. In some cases, there was then more discretionary income to shop

There is also a trickle down effect. If one does not want or cannot afford 4-5 digit prices on premier designer RTW or bags, there are plenty Of other options including vintage

due to social media, vintage became much more popular

Here are a few vintage dead stock pieces that I purchased years ago (pristine bc I had to diet back into them lol)
Bill blass looped wool; ungaro wool moto jacket (matching skirt not shown); and, Adolfo for Saks crotchet jacket and dress
(Cross posted In vintage thread )
View attachment 5408000View attachment 5408001View attachment 5408002View attachment 5408003View attachment 5408004

Love your outfits here. All lovely but my favourite is no 2. It’s a brighter colour on your. I like no 4 too - really shows off your waist! Great bag too.

Or you could move to a less fashionable area like mine where no one would recognize Hermes.

I’m in a city and I don’t ever think I’ve seen a Hermes IRL.

Yesterday I came across this bag at an opening of a new store in our area. It was very inexpensive so I grabbed it, but I generally wouldn’t buy a bag from this company, because of where it is made. It is exactly the color I want and have been looking but I am a bit jaded and not sure whether to keep it just for the color.

View attachment 5408264

Love that tan leather!

The Jade Gucci shoulder bag I took out Mon eve (and hopefully will take out again tonight) was around £650 in 2004. I know we're almost 20 years later but only my property has gone up as much. A new Gucci bag (looking at 'normal' leather shoulder bag 2.4K) that's approx 4.5 x. I do love a good Gucci bag though, and I hate the way people treat their Gucci bags (versus H) so I buy new. I was OK thinking about new bag prices at Hermes 2014, '15, '16 but I can't even look at Hermes bags (re. prices) any more. Even when I look at H scarves, their fine jewellery makes better economic sense. I have 15 H bags. What would actually be the point of buying more?

I would certainly go preloved if the bag was 'missing' from my collection. Honestly, there is nothing missing from my collection, everything from now on would be pure indulgence but I'm still in the game for the Asprey red briefcase (which will be one of my few bright red bags too). It won't resell well at all but it happens to be the perfect FO&D briefcase for a woman that means business .

I think it’s a whole different story to be shopping with something in mind that just purchasing for the sake of it. Red definitely means business so go for it.

Absolutely agree. I cherish what I already own and my Covid deals (Those deals are unlikely to come around again for a while)

Now that resale has gone up, I also am happy for the opportunity to purchase some items for a better price.

ETA: I do see signs of the resale market softening, and I don’t mind waiting
all this is JMO, and YMMV

Forgot to add, I stop shopping when I am at a high weight or low weight for my range. Bc I cannot properly gauge style choices at high weight; and if I buy at low weight, it only fits or looks appropriate for a nano second. So that, plus price hikes at retail and resale, are serious factors to curb shopping (for years, not months). For me, it’s either feast or famine.

Good point! I definitely did that and purchased when I was low which wasn’t really sustainable. Hence 3 sizes of some things.

The emotive impact of music is an unexpected thing. A curve ball. Who could prepared themselves for that? What a pressure to have everyone know you.

Regarding coping mechanisms, they are not a problem unless they are causing a problem. A few years ago I was freaked out that DH was drinking more. A lot of old people drink a lot because they can--no pressure to get up and go to work. His was not a coping mechanism--it was just his idea of a good time. I was freaked because I was afraid he would turn into an alcoholic. I finally decided his drinking was not causing any problems so it didn't matter. He was still carrying out all his responsibilities, he wasn't hungover, his health is good. It was only a problem because I was making it a problem.

My point is don't make purse shopping a problem if it is not. Overwork is not a problem unless it is making you too tired or stressed or causing family problems. Over-eating--maybe not the best--but does it really matter if you have clothes that fit and husband who loves you? Coping mechanisms are a good thing. People who don't have problems don't need them. If you have something to deal with, you want well developed coping mechanism. You don't want coping mechanisms that are so good that they keep you from dealing with the root problem, but that is not your case. I say celebrate those coping mechanisms.

It is just the nature of my job. Leadership are well know to the whole community and I’m one of them. It made it difficult but it was wonderful to finally have the whole community under one roof after two long years.

You make very good points re coping mechanisms. We all need them as distractions etc. Nothing wrong with a few drinks or a bit of shopping. I think I just need to be more mindful of what I’m doing and not shop for the sake of it. I perhaps need to find a better balance with things that are more restorative like yoga, running, gardening and being fully present in family time as well as work and spending.

 

[whateve]

I’m still struggling with being retriggered. I had to go to a work related concert last night which was beautiful but listening to music is emotive and difficult in the situation where the whole audience knows who I am and I can’t leave. My new therapist has been very helpful by email and this is reassuring. We have an appointment next week. This is good as my mood is low with some flashbacks and lots of unhealthy ruminating.

I think I’ve realised since beginning schema work in therapy, that shopping is a mental crutch for me as well as a hobby. At some levels it’s a MH issue. At one level, I need to look and feel good (having been told I don’t by M and abused for my choices by my ex). I don’t want anyone to be able to be critical. At another functional level, looking at things to buy online is a constant activity that stops me thinking with the buzz that comes from purchasing wonderful but short lived. It’s an addiction in the same way as my tendency to overwork and food related issues, none of these are now at the level of being self destructive, but they are to some extent maladaptive nevertheless.

With my Mini Alexa being squeal worthy and the pale pink Brioche being that sought after neutral, my bag urges are satisfied for a while. I’m no longer so drawn to the Gucci Marmont. Only the flap version has the practical option of doubling the strap for shoulder carry that the Brioche has and a pale colour would get terrible dye transfer. Therefore, I’m stating I want to shop my own collection for the rest of the year and into next. Please feel free to remind me of this!

The only thing I’m considering is a shoulder strap for my mini Alexa. Adding this would give that shoulder carry option to protect it from dye transfer too (it’s crossbody or top handle only at the moment) but the strap along is nearly £400. Costs more than many bags and makes the Alexa seriously pricey. Would need to see it on to know if it would work with the style but I think it would.
View attachment 5408197

Also, I just bought my sister a leather Ted Baker camera bag in a flash (all stock) sale to give her as a birthday present next month and it’s lovely less than 1/4 of the cost of the pink Mulberry strap alone! My sister has one Radley bag she uses for everything plus a MK I gave her recently. I’m hoping this will be a fun bag for casual use when our families go on holiday together in August.
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Clothes wise, I don’t need anything except a pair of shorts for the summer. None of mine fit - too big or too small! I’ve also seen some neutral pink sandals which are crying out to be bought for my Nice holiday. Not buying anything here will be more of a problem than bags when there are so many beautiful things around. I’m not sure I can manage!

Edit: sorry for the long post - clearly using TPF as a MH break/distraction this morning.

As perfect of a match that strap would be for your Mulberry, it is so expensive! Maybe just try a contrasting camera strap you can buy very cheaply to see how much you would actually use it before springing for the expensive version.

 

[whateve]

Yesterday I came across this bag at an opening of a new store in our area. It was very inexpensive so I grabbed it, but I generally wouldn’t buy a bag from this company, because of where it is made. It is exactly the color I want and have been looking but I am a bit jaded and not sure whether to keep it just for the color.

View attachment 5408264

The color is wonderful! The handles are so interesting.

 

[cowgirlsboots]

I come in late to this discussion. It’s not just luxury items, new or resale, that are getting more expensive. Fuel prices in the U.K. have doubled, inflation is running at 9%, weekly food shopping has gone up. People are having to make serious cut backs. While more and more UK citizens are struggling to feed themselves and their children, I feel lucky to be a professional with a good income even if public sector pay awards (key workers so praised a year ago) are 2% or less and the unions are up in arms.

On luxuries, fashion and bags are following the trend. They all need to make the money back they are losing to these rises.

With just energy, food and school fees our bills will be up £250 a month in the space of a few months. Income has increased by a fraction of this. I expect play money is seriously reduced for many. Some resellers are in the business to make money, not just fund a hobby (definitely a hobby to me). I guess this global picture is the problem here. I’m just thankful that to me it’s a first world problem.

It´s the same here in Germany. Everything has gone up in price and still continues to do so. Petrol prices are through the roof (2,20€ this morning for 1L unleaded), grocery prices are exploding- some have doubled compared to last year. The wood pellets for our stove almost cost double of what I paid last year, too. (I just placed the order, because I was afraid not to get any later in the year.) Oil is the same.
Spending money for silly as in non-essential purchases is definetely getting less for most people.

 

[cowgirlsboots]

Yesterday I came across this bag at an opening of a new store in our area. It was very inexpensive so I grabbed it, but I generally wouldn’t buy a bag from this company, because of where it is made. It is exactly the color I want and have been looking but I am a bit jaded and not sure whether to keep it just for the color.

View attachment 5408264

The bag looks lovely, but you must go with your gut feeling to decide whether it´s for you or not.

 

[cowgirlsboots]

RTW is crazy!

I think that is because it's like the rest of the world has 'suddenly' discovered clothes.

At the Gucci event, a silk jacquard suit jacket was £5K. It wasn't bespoke, just MTO. MTO (wool boucle) skirt of another suit £2K, I would have bought it but youwcouldn't buy it unless you bought the jacket. I would have never worn the jacket and skirt together and I didn't really like the (blouson, short, feathered-sleeve) jacket so what would be the point? Now I'm thinking the £2K red velvet jacket before Christmas (also MTO) was a bargain. Perhaps that's the point.

At the same time the true vintage clothes I love- non designer, not always in the best condition- are having a price low. Everything that does not come from a well known reseller or is in perfect condition does not get much interest. Of course some private sellers still try pricing their items high, but they do not sell.

Yesterday I was able to buy two 50ies LBDs and a 30ies evening dress for 35€ for the lot... plus a 70ies Burberry´s skirt and jacket suit with a few tiny holes for 5€.
I know the seller, I know the dresses will mean work, more than she has described, but still. She has some more listed on ebay and is hoping for better results. At the same time I feel for her (She has been a collector and reseller for decades and now is about to end her career) and hope to get my hands on some more bargains...

 

[cowgirlsboots]

i suspect @cowgirlsboots knows much more about tailoring vintage clothing than I will know in a lifetime, so perhaps she will chime in . If you start buying vintage, go slowly. There is a learning curve and mistakes will be made.

Oh, I know a lot about altering vintage to fit me, but wouldn´t actually call what I do tailoring... a lot of what I do is very makeshift! I do know my measurements, I do know which size fits me from some of the 70ies brands and I know the household sizecharts for 40ies, 50ies and 60ies from the period diy magazines. Usually I try to buy according to my measurements or bigger (but not tooooo big!) as it´s easier to take in than out (though it can be done...). I try to get a look at the inside of clothes before buying to assess seam allowances and the way they were made.
Generally I wouldn´t buy overcoats that obviously need altering, because that´s highly complicated and risky. Pants are a challenge! I keep my hands off them! I mean I have trouble finding modern pants that fit perfectly even when I can try them on. Buying vintage blind would be very risky.
A while ago I got a man´s suit for free from a house clearance and actualy managed to alter the pants. I think it was sheer luck, though.

I have made many mistakes during the years I´ve been buying and altering my vintage clothes- some awful hatchet jobs I did, some dresses that died in the washing machine, some items that simply felt yucky to me and I had to throw out, shoes that fell apart because they weren´t fit to be worn anymore...

I fully agree: start buying vintage sowly. Maybe in person in vintage stores where you can try on, feel, sniff... it´s like a relationship that has to develop.

 

[Cordeliere]

I know the seller, I know the dresses will mean work, more than she has described, but still. She has some more listed on ebay and is hoping for better results. At the same time I feel for her (She has been a collector and reseller for decades and now is about to end her career) and hope to get my hands on some more bargains...

I understand that from both sides. I was just looking at ebay and the store for Rebag has 23,000 items listed. I bet they are going to be in a world of hurt when everyone stops buying.

On the other side of it, there was a very large Hermes reseller who closed down her shop a few years ago. First it was 25% off, then 50% off, then 75% off a good number of the items. I bought a bag that had been $4,000 for $1,200. One of my friends said I stole it. Not everything was marked down that much and her prices were really high to begin with, but still. I hope you get some "give-away" bargains when the time comes. (Stash a little money back for a spree.)

 

[dcooney4]

The color is wonderful! The handles are so interesting.

Love the color. Wish I knew a bit more about the brand. The handles are a bit odd but not uncomfortable. It also has a Crossbody strap. I had gone to the outlets and there wasn’t any bags in this color. Still not sure will decide by Monday or Tuesday. It is not the cost but I have been quite bad this month so it is about the space.

 

[cowgirlsboots]

I understand that from both sides. I was just looking at ebay and the store for Rebag has 23,000 items listed. I bet they are going to be in a world of hurt when everyone stops buying.

On the other side of it, there was a very large Hermes reseller who closed down her shop a few years ago. First it was 25% off, then 50% off, then 75% off a good number of the items. I bought a bag that had been $4,000 for $1,200. One of my friends said I stole it. Not everything was marked down that much and her prices were really high to begin with, but still. I hope you get some "give-away" bargains when the time comes. (Stash a little money back for a spree.)

I wouldn´t say you "stole" the bag. It was the seller´s decision to mark it down that much. She offered, you accepted. That´s a clean deal.

My vintage seller in question usually puts higher starting bids or much higher buy-it-now prices on her items and accepts reasonable offers.
I have bought several pieces from her. Most were worth it. The last two I overpaid because obviously her eye sight is getting worse and she oversees flaws that should be disclosed. I could have returned, but decided to keep and extensively repair, because I absolutely loved the pieces.
During all the time I only ever returned one expensive (to me) piece because it had been hatchet altered before and definetely ruined.

The items she had listed now have been on and off ebay for a long time at much higher prices and not found a buyer. The 30ies evening dress for example at first had a 95€ starting bid.
She dared and put low starting bids this time. That´s the market. She sold about everything of the latest batch at very basic prices, 35€ for one dress being the highest I saw. (There were many in tiny sizes I did not even attempt to buy as they were not feasible for me.)

I´m always looking for vintage and for the bags I like- sitting patiently in my net waiting for the perfect bargain. That´s quite therapeutic too. I see a lot and know that I do not even want most of it, no matter how cheap it might be...

 

[Cordeliere]

In older clothes there are often three labels:
Designer
Retailer
Fabric mill or other

I have searches set for favorite mid century modern designers; but you can pick any decade that appeals.

for example, when I decided I wanted Norman Foster aluminum chairs (not the navy chair), my search ran for 2+ years before I was able to purchase 12 chairs for 250 each from Florida including shipping

the pickings are slim for what I want now, but again, it’s a matter of waiting. Often an item will not be labeled dead stock but NWT or otherwise be pristine. If an item is not dead stock, I prefer if there were underarm shields, that can be removed, to guard against excessive wear.

I prefer search by designer (Jacques feith, Donald brooks, Adel Simpson, Norman Norell; but will occasionally run a search by store (Ultimo, charivari, Linda dresner, Wilkes bashford, didier ludot, Anna lowe; bonwit teller). or, location, like British Hong Kong. or design element, such as, peplum. I have a continual search for Catherine regher, a canadian designer, bc I used to own the most magic dress ever (40 USD with custom label from Bergdorfs) but I loaned it to my cousin for her wedding after party (and it was left on the floor to be WASHED, probably with third world coconut soap). Urgh. Needless to say, I’ve never loaned my cousin anything else.

As you browse vintage searches, you will come up with other names, either suggested by the search engine or from whatever seller you happen to be perusing. There was once a woman from Iceland selling a warehouse filled with dresses on Etsy.

note: for vintage RTW, it is essential that you know your measurements; the silhouette that works for your body type. Also, factor in cost of cleaning, refurbishing etc. even dead stock may have linings that have given out (due to the weight or age of the garment etc). For example, my norman Norell coat is one of my favorite pieces, but the lining was not the best quality. It cost the same amount as the purchase price of the cost to have my tailor replace the lining in a very luxurious silk twill.

for fur or leather, be especially careful of condition. IMO it is almost impossible or very costly to rehab a dried pelt. Balding calf hair is a loss. I learned this the hard way when I bought a vintage lizard trench coat (not sure if it was Gucci, but it had a certain disco 70s flair that Tom Ford tried to resurrect). It could not be saved. i spent about 700 USD before giving up. The cost of refurbishment can exceed the cost of the item.

View attachment 5408398View attachment 5408399View attachment 5408400 View attachment 5408412

one of my favorite pieces is a wool dress by Donald brooks from a random ebay seller for 57 USD. Such amazing wool fabric is impossible to find nowadays. The inverted pleat and pockets align perfectly

deals like that balance out more expensive vintage finds

also, one last note: pants are hard to fit. It’s possible to size up, but depending on the fabric, there may be marks. Sizing down does not always work. i suspect @cowgirlsboots knows much more about tailoring vintage clothing than I will know in a lifetime, so perhaps she will chime in . If you start buying vintage, go slowly. There is a learning curve and mistakes will be made.

Where do you do the searches for the Designers you mentioned? Nothing came up on ebay. Did a general search and it looked like there were some items on Real Real and 1st Dibs. The google images were amazing. So elegant.