Spring Summer 2013 RTW

[scarfmischief1]

I am thinking this is Echec du Roi:

 

[bobobob]

Bags

 

[bobobob]

vogue.co.uk

"I WANTED it to be both," said Christophe Lemaire about his Hermes spring/summer 2013 collection this afternoon, referring to the mix of clean and sharp lines alongside bolder brighter prints among it.


"I wanted it to be graphic and modernist, masculine and feminine but I also wanted to explore and express the richness of Hermes. Style is always a fusion," he reasoned. "I want to shake it all up together."

By which he meant combining stark and neat lines of mannish tailoring that followed square and angular cuts, and sometimes patch-worked together in blocks of colour alongside illustrated prints and then busy, graphic but very colourful ones. There were big belts and braces to keep everything in check - on trench coats and more jackets with curved but controlled shoulders - alongside wilder, free-flowing pieces. But there was always an element of control throughout.

And it makes sense that there would be - Hermes is a heritage house and Lemaire only took on its mantle four seasons ago following the departure of Jean Paul Gaultier.


"I'm like: is it already the fourth season? It has gone too quickly," he joked.

But what is it like taking on that responsibility? Does it get easier?

"I feel very happy and lucky and more and more comfortable. Not only is it a house of craftmanship, but also one of dialogue and an exchange of ideas which I think is very important for a designer," he explained.

Dialogue is clearly something Lemaire is very good at developing with this house - he has a clear and uncluttered vision, and will always be prepared to evolve that further if all else fails.

 

[bobobob]

Details (cont...)

 

[scarfmischief1]

Awesome bobobob.

Thanks for taking the time to post the pictures!

:coolpics:

 

[DiamondS]

Thank you so much for sharing the pics bobobob!

I have to say that after a first glance I'm not really into this S/S collection at all. The modernist approach and often masculine, boxy cuts are not my thing nor even look good on my short and petite frame. But many must find this look refreshing and clean or at least very aesthetic. I hope that Lemaire finds his vision at Hermès and is able to create many covetable collections in the future.

 

[Irishbb]

Thank you for posting! Interesting...

 

[bobobob]

Awesome bobobob.

Thanks for taking the time to post the pictures!

:coolpics:

Thank you so much for sharing the pics bobobob!

I have to say that after a first glance I'm not really into this S/S collection at all. The modernist approach and often masculine, boxy cuts are not my thing nor even look good on my short and petite frame. But many must find this look refreshing and clean or at least very aesthetic. I hope that Lemaire finds his vision at Hermès and is able to create many covetable collections in the future.

Thank you for posting! Interesting...

You're welcome

 

[birkel]

ok i went through the collection several times my issue with lemaires collections are just that !, the fact that i have to go over the collections more than twice really bothers me. but this time in this post i want to really reflect and give a reason to my dislike as well as my appreciation to certain elements. i also have to say that for the first time, i have seen this collection with out comparing to Jpg and thus feel that i can now see him as what H has decided, it as a company wants to bee seen. now the dissection.

i feel this man is now scared he wants to cover all possible scenarios and join in all possible trends while hiding behind elements that almost connect to the house, in this i mean he explores via the eyes of H heritage adapting elements that are popping out as trends set forth by other fashion movements. i do feel that now H has almost forced its hand over Lemaire to express more understandable fashions that are adapted more towards the understandable Hermes esthetic, in a way what Dior did to Galliano. this is fine in all terms except for the fact that now we have a very eclectic if not patched up Hermes. that features versace/pucci/margiella/sander/lacoste/Hermesesque items. and with this key pieces to the collection lose the intensity. in what he states i do sense a loss of identity almost, as i believe he can tell his esthetic was no precisely adopted and so he defends it by basically generating a notion of interdependence between his ideas and the heritage its a mix .but thats just it, its all shaken up together and mixed but to me in an unclear way. all of this said some of the more Hermes elements as certain prints and leather shorts hint H and thus give me a bit of hope yet the play of colors and added elemnts on classic bags as the Hac are not new or fresh and so the bags actually become odd distractions to the looks.

so hope it helps thanks for reading on.... its just i can not see the collection and not give a note of how disappointed i am again.

note to Christophe.... it has been 4 collections and in all honesty it has not gone by fast for me i loved H pret a porter and in all honesty can not wait for the next creative director !

 

[birkel]

P.S the croc on those shorts is amazing please H if you can make a few bags with those fantastic scales thank you !!!

 

[duna]

Terrible, as usual! The shoes are horrid too....and the bags (JMHO)!

 

[periogirl28]

Thanks for posting, I am having lots of problems buying Hermes RTW and it does not look good for next season either! BIG SIGH.

 

[Millicat]

Terrible, as usual! The shoes are horrid too....and the bags (JMHO)!

I thought it was just me, there's nothing there that inspires me at all.

 

[IFFAH]

I'm glad to live in a world today where I have access to various other designers.

I don't mind the Alligator shorts, the leather jackets but would I buy the entire collection? No.

This light blue dress will most likely be a hit. If there's one right thing Hermes is very good at or Christopher Lemaire is good at, creating Hermes silk prints dresses. This is his expertise. Others, not exactly.

I'm not overall satisfied with new collection of Hermes silver. I get it with the Espionne. If I want to buy Hermes silver/rose gold jewellery pieces, I prefer to buy one with intricate details like Affranchie. If I want to look for a simple silver cuff, I wouldn't want to spend a bomb. I rather buy real jewellery. Even if it's Hermes. It's not that I don't appreciate simple clean lines. I adore simple clean lines for jewellery. Not for Hermes. It's good enough that they create simple clean lines bags; Picotins, Massai, Onimaitou, etc.

 

[costa]

Sorry...again, nothing I like in this collection