Hello all - I wonder if any of you might be able to help me with any insight into this bracelet, as I know nothing about Native American jewelry or little about turquoise. This was my grandmother's cuff. All I can tell you is it is old. She lived in San Antonio, TX and my grandfather was military. I do know that she traveled with him across the Southwest (NM and AZ) when they were going to CA to embark for Japan during the Occupation after WWII and upon their return back to TX, so I wonder if the bracelet may have been bought during one of these trips and from that time period. There are no hallmarks, but it does look authentic Navajo from what I can tell. I'm not sure if the brownish marks on the stones are damage or part of the 'matrix' of the turquoise. Any insights or comments would be most appreciated!
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Hi,
It's a very nice vintage Navajo cuff with attractive stones. I think you can count on it being postwar, but this is a style that lasted a long time. The little horizontal bar shape behind two stones looks like a reinforcement, not something that would have been done normally, possibly done at a later time.
How heavy is it, do you know? The gram weight indicates something about the quality. It looks like it probably has a nice weight (more is better than less for this type of bracelet). The twisted wire on the bezels could be hand done. Enjoy it!
Thanks so much for your comments, jellyv! I was hoping you would respond, as you seem very knowledgeable about NA jewelry and turquoise and have some gorgeous pieces! I weighed it at lunch today and it is 57 grams. Not sure if this is heavy for this sort of bracelet, but it does FEEL heavy in the hand. Post WWII feels right too, as I was thinking late '40s, early '50s if my hunch is right. Unfortunately, both my grandmother and mother have passed on, so there is no way to know for sure.
I took a closer pic of one of the outside bezels and I think you may be right about that too, as there are some small inconsistencies in the rope that look hand done to me.
Is there any way to track the type of stone? I know certain mines produced a "typical" type of turquoise for that particular mine, but I think others produces a variety of looks, is that true? Are the stones badly damaged in this, do you think, or is the wear of it appropriate for what I think is the approximate age? Is it particularly valuable? I'm not looking to appraise or sell it ever, just curious about what I have. It's been sitting in my jewelry box for ages and I've always been curious, just did not know anyone to ask! Purse forum is such a great resource in this way!
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Hi, Crosso. Like Jellyv said, this is a very nice vintage NA bracelet. I agree that it's probably post war. It looks hand made & the stones look to be genuine mined turquoise, not man made. The turquoise are really nice stones with great color. The brownish marks are part of the matrix. From your pictures, they do not looked to be cracked or damaged. You can take it to your jeweler & have the metal tested to see if it's sterling (92.5% silver content) or coin silver (can be 80-90% silver content).
It's not uncommon for early pieces to be unsigned. It's a beautiful piece. Wear it in good health. You can Google turquoise mines of the southwest & can find maps of mines that have examples of the turquoise that mine produces/produced. Here's a page that does explain some about turquoise mines & stones.
http://tucsonturquoise.com/
Thanks, crosso, yes I spend a lot of time on this subject!
57 grams is a very good weight, indicating quality. It is heavy for the size. The construction of your cuff, with two bars of silver that are fairly beefy that meet at the terminals, is a 40s-50s thing.
Stones: The last closeup of your stone you posted makes it look like Blue Gem, which is a very high-quality stone (from a now-depleted mine). But I'd have to see good pics of all stones to tell. The patina of your stones looks totally normal, as in, just fine and not damaged (but better pics would go far to help an opinion). It's typical for turq stones to acquire at least some change of surface over time.
The short answer about telling about which mine: very difficult, even for professionals, if you don't have actual provenance from the person who made the piece. The complication is that many of the mines produced a range of color stones. It's a tough subject, coupled with the fact that stones can change color over time, too, if their chemistry permits that.
57 grams is a very good weight, indicating quality. It is heavy for the size. The construction of your cuff, with two bars of silver that are fairly beefy that meet at the terminals, is a 40s-50s thing.
Stones: The last closeup of your stone you posted makes it look like Blue Gem, which is a very high-quality stone (from a now-depleted mine). But I'd have to see good pics of all stones to tell. The patina of your stones looks totally normal, as in, just fine and not damaged (but better pics would go far to help an opinion). It's typical for turq stones to acquire at least some change of surface over time.
The short answer about telling about which mine: very difficult, even for professionals, if you don't have actual provenance from the person who made the piece. The complication is that many of the mines produced a range of color stones. It's a tough subject, coupled with the fact that stones can change color over time, too, if their chemistry permits that.
Thanks so much for the replies, CD and JellyV
I am so excited to learn more! Seems like turquoise is a very complex subject (much like jade, which has taken me years to learn much of anything about) and I'm now very intrigued by it. I sure wish I had found out more about it before my mother passed away. I've always thought it was a cool piece - my grandmother had quite a bit of amazing, unique jewelry that I've inherited and I love having them as part of her history, just wish I knew more of the story behind them! Thanks again for sharing your knowledge with me!
I am so excited to learn more! Seems like turquoise is a very complex subject (much like jade, which has taken me years to learn much of anything about) and I'm now very intrigued by it. I sure wish I had found out more about it before my mother passed away. I've always thought it was a cool piece - my grandmother had quite a bit of amazing, unique jewelry that I've inherited and I love having them as part of her history, just wish I knew more of the story behind them! Thanks again for sharing your knowledge with me!Just thought I would post a pic of the piece I'm wearing today. Since I had a lot to do, I went simple with this one piece. It's old...going back to the 60's. Signed with hallmark for Roy Anderson Jr who worked under supervision of White Hogan. It's a pendant & a brooch/pin. It's a large stand out piece. I wish the bale was larger as I want to find another chain for it.
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Just beautiful! Would it diminish the value if you had a larger bale put on it?
Thanks, chessmont. That's a good question since I'm not sure. I try not to alter any of my NA jewelry. I've always thought it may devalue a piece if it was altered. Maybe someone else that knows more than I can chime in with some advise.
Oh that is just knock-out gorgeous!
I had a problem with a couple of NA pendants that the bales were small and the silver chains I paired them with just didn't seem to fit the look. I bought a black leather cord and that looked o.k. but wasn't the look I wanted to wear all the time. A couple of options. I bought a James Avery "heavy spiga" chain and it looks surprisingly nice with my NA pendants. It has a smooth, semi-oxidized look, in contrast to the shiny, diamond-cut look of many silver chains.
http://www.jamesavery.com/product/J...vy-Spiga-Chain/pc/2176/c/0/sc/2183/157781.uts
Carolyn Pollack, who does the southwestern jewelry for cable shopping channels, has in years past manufactured a few chains that work well with NA pendants with small bails. You need to look on Ebay though for them.
For that pendant I would want to stick with a simple chain and stay away from anything that would detract from the beauty of the stone and pendant. It really is lovely!
Oh that is just knock-out gorgeous!
A couple of options. I bought a James Avery "heavy spiga" chain and it looks surprisingly nice with my NA pendants. It has a smooth, semi-oxidized look, in contrast to the shiny, diamond-cut look of many silver chains.
http://www.jamesavery.com/product/J...vy-Spiga-Chain/pc/2176/c/0/sc/2183/157781.uts
Carolyn Pollack, who does the southwestern jewelry for cable shopping channels, has in years past manufactured a few chains that work well with NA pendants with small bails. You need to look on Ebay though for them.
For that pendant I would want to stick with a simple chain and stay away from anything that would detract from the beauty of the stone and pendant. It really is lovely!
Thanks, BPS. I agree that a simple chain would look the best with this piece. Right now, the only chain I have to wear with it is a rope chain. I do have a U shaped neck wire that will fit through the bale but this pendant is heavy & it pulls on the wire. I don't want it to pull it off my neck. Thanks for the link & the suggestions. I'll definitely check it out. I tried it on a leather cord but didn't care for the look.
Wow, CD, super impressive piece. As you know I'm sure, the White Hogan was a high-prestige shop for great Navajo work. Does the back of your pendant have the hogan emblem as part of the stamp, maybe along with his initials?
I'd like to see the pendant put onto a Navajo handmade link chain necklace, which comes in various gauges. Can't see the size of your bale, but maybe you could find a bigger bale that just could be added to this one, in case yours is soldered on permanently. Like, sliding a new larger bale onto it.
It's hallmarked with RA for Roy Anderson & has been verified from "Hallmarks of the Southwest" by Barton Wright. It's also been verified that Roy Anderson worked under the direction of White Hogan. I am looking at a White Hogan piece & am really wanting to get it. However, funds have to go to a landscaping & fencing project for the back yard for the time being.
Here's a couple of pics of the bale & the hallmark. Yes, I would like to find a Navajo link chain for it. I haven't thought about having another bale added to it. Thanks for the idea. I just don't want it to be devalued or ruined.
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Yep, if you are lucky you could leave your existing bale and find one that could be opened up and added into the existing one, just thinking out loud. Thanks for showing the hallmark: I was curious because some makers have the WH stamp in addition to their initials. I have a necklace like that, by John Begay using a classic Kenneth Begay circle design.
John Begay is an awesome silversmith & does beautiful work. The other piece that I've been looking at has the White Hogan hallmark on it. Please post a pic of your JB necklace. I would love to see it!