Perfume Chat Thread

[880]

@cowgirlsboots, @Purses & Perfumes, I didn’t recall Cuir Mauresque (at one point I had all of the SL, bottles, manufacturer samples, or decants) of so I pulled up this review which seems to align with @Purses & Perfumes feeling of wheres the leather

Perfume Review- Serge Lutens Cuir Mauresque: Classic Sex Appeal – Kafkaesque

Serge Lutens perfumes tend be polarizing. Leather perfumes are also polarizing. Throw the two together and…. Whoa, mama! Yet, I find myself entranced by Cuir Mauresque (“moorish leather”) from The Master. And I don’t even particularly like leather perfumes! This one, … Continue reading →

kafkaesqueblog.com

but since its compared to Bal a Versailles which makes me smell like a stinky alley cat (and not in a good way), I may not have focused properly on it.

I did have a sample of gres cabochard, I think vintage EdP, but I recall it as being more of a galbanum green scent on me (like Piguet bandit, if Bandit was more floral woods). I don’t remember if Gres C was like Rochas Vente Vert, Vintage Ms. Dior or Estée Azuree et al, but I certainly pigeon holed it there.

Kafkaseque reviews cuir cannage as similar to SL cuir mauresque, a warm floral and fruity leather. So I’m not sure you’d get the same rush as the inhale of a leather bag . . . Or, if you are thinking perfume notes, it might need more of a caramelized birch bark? kafka says that cuir cannage is even more mentholated rubber opening than Tuberose Criminelle, so I’m wondering if, for a bargain priced leather one could wear Bulgari Black(I get a spicy amber powdery tobacco leather right off the bat from that one. And, although my skin chemistry sadly amplifies powder, for the price and quality. . ,)

Dior Cuir Cannage (La Collection Privée) – Kafkaesque

Cuir Cannage is Dior's latest release, mixing florals and leather in a mix that is both masculine and feminine. The fragrance not only reflects a very Serge

kafkaesqueblog.com

 

[ultravisitor]

Kafkaseque reviews cuir cannage as similar to SL cuir mauresque, a warm floral and fruity leather. So I’m not sure you’d get the same rush as the inhale of a leather bag . . .

To me, the leather of Cuir Cannage is much more akin to that of a fine pair of leather gloves.

I actually almost wore Cuir Cannage today. It's one of my favorite Diors, and I don't want to empty the bottle because it'll be too much trouble to buy another.

 

[Purses & Perfumes]

@cowgirlsboots, @Purses & Perfumes, I didn’t recall Cuir Mauresque (at one point I had all of the SL, bottles, manufacturer samples, or decants) of so I pulled up this review which seems to align with @Purses & Perfumes feeling of wheres the leather

Perfume Review- Serge Lutens Cuir Mauresque: Classic Sex Appeal – Kafkaesque

Serge Lutens perfumes tend be polarizing. Leather perfumes are also polarizing. Throw the two together and…. Whoa, mama! Yet, I find myself entranced by Cuir Mauresque (“moorish leather”) from The Master. And I don’t even particularly like leather perfumes! This one, … Continue reading →

kafkaesqueblog.com

but since its compared to Bal a Versailles which makes me smell like a stinky alley cat (and not in a good way), I may not have focused properly on it.

I did have a sample of gres cabochard, I think vintage EdP, but I recall it as being more of a galbanum green scent on me (like Piguet bandit, if Bandit was more floral woods). I don’t remember if Gres C was like Rochas Vente Vert, Vintage Ms. Dior or Estée Azuree et al, but I certainly pigeon holed it there.

Kafkaseque reviews cuir cannage as similar to SL cuir mauresque, a warm floral and fruity leather. So I’m not sure you’d get the same rush as the inhale of a leather bag . . . Or, if you are thinking perfume notes, it might need more of a caramelized birch bark? kafka says that cuir cannage is even more mentholated rubber opening than Tuberose Criminelle, so I’m wondering if, for a bargain priced leather one could wear Bulgari Black(I get a spicy amber powdery tobacco leather right off the bat from that one. And, although my skin chemistry sadly amplifies powder, for the price and quality. . ,)

Dior Cuir Cannage (La Collection Privée) – Kafkaesque

Cuir Cannage is Dior's latest release, mixing florals and leather in a mix that is both masculine and feminine. The fragrance not only reflects a very Serge

kafkaesqueblog.com

Sampling Cuir Mauresque was interesting for me because I got a whiff of the opening and then couldn't smell anything for a few hours. Finally, I smelled the drydown and I think the drydown might be where the similarities to Bal a Versailles are evident.
I just concluded I was anosmic to something in the scent.

Cabochard Gres has a lot going on for sure. It's not solely a leather perfume, and all the notes are so well balanced and executed in the fragrance. I have sadly never tried Rochas Vent Vert, but from what I have read, it appears to be mostly a very green scent, and I think Cabochard has the galbanum but it also has a lot else going on. I have only tried it in extrait and not EDP, and I know there can be quite a bit of variation between different concentrations of the same fragrance. I have some vintage Miss Dior and will have to sniff them side by side one of these days for comparison purposes.

I almost wore Cabochard today. I think I will wear it tomorrow to refresh my scent memory of the fragrance. And I need to sniff some Bvlgari Black for sure!

 

[880]

Sampling Cuir Mauresque was interesting for me because I got a whiff of the opening and then couldn't smell anything for a few hours. Finally, I smelled the drydown and I think the drydown might be where the similarities to Bal a Versailles are evident.
I just concluded I was anosmic to something in the scent.

Cabochard Gres has a lot going on for sure. It's not solely a leather perfume, and all the notes are so well balanced and executed in the fragrance. I have sadly never tried Rochas Vent Vert, but from what I have read, it appears to be mostly a very green scent, and I think Cabochard has the galbanum but it also has a lot else going on. I have only tried it in extrait and not EDP, and I know there can be quite a bit of variation between different concentrations of the same fragrance. I have some vintage Miss Dior and will have to sniff them side by side one of these days for comparison purposes.

I almost wore Cabochard today. I think I will wear it tomorrow to refresh my scent memory of the fragrance. And I need to sniff some Bvlgari Black for sure!

Bulgari black and FM Musc Ravageur are kind of linked in my head. Both rich, warm, amber dominant. Years later, SL came out with Foureau Noire which was too powdery on me and reversed the amber and lavender, but was thematically same family (In my mind). I think all three are polar opposites of Gres Cabouchard.

avaguely connected to Gres cabouchard on fragrantica. https://www.fragrantica.com/perfume/Gres/Cabochard-1060.html
in the 1950s, Madame Gres described a scent that she loved called water hyacinth. She wanted to make a fragrance about it. All of the marketing people told her, no it wasn’t commercially viable (people want warm, strong, amber) so instead she came out with Gres Cabouchard. She did have a limited amount of the other fragrance made, Chouda bit it was essentially her personal stock as no one else seemed interested.

 

[Purses & Perfumes]

Bulgari black and FM Musc Ravageur are kind of linked in my head. Both rich, warm, amber dominant. Years later, SL came out with Foureau Noire which was too powdery on me and reversed the amber and lavender, but was thematically same family (In my mind). I think all three are polar opposites of Gres Cabouchard.

avaguely connected to Gres cabouchard on fragrantica. https://www.fragrantica.com/perfume/Gres/Cabochard-1060.html
in the 1950s, Madame Gres described a scent that she loved called water hyacinth. She wanted to make a fragrance about it. All of the marketing people told her, no it wasn’t commercially viable (people want warm, strong, amber) so instead she came out with Gres Cabouchard. She did have a limited amount of the other fragrance made, Chouda bit it was essentially her personal stock as no one else seemed interested.

That is so interesting -- thank you for sharing. Yes, that was the time of the big fragrances and chypres so Cabochard was the right one for the times, I guess. One has to wonder if the water hyacinth fragrance might actually have gained popularity in the current market today especially if it was light and airy. Also, I wonder if a water hyacinth smells similar to a regular hyacinth. The hyacinth is not one of the more frequently used or popular florals in perfumery. I have some hyacinth scents that I struggle with and some that I enjoy. It all depends on the blend and the composition.

 

[cowgirlsboots]

To me, the leather of Cuir Cannage is much more akin to that of a fine pair of leather gloves.

I actually almost wore Cuir Cannage today. It's one of my favorite Diors, and I don't want to empty the bottle because it'll be too much trouble to buy another.

You don´t by any chance own an older Dior bag like for example the Gaucho or the New Lock to compare the scent of the bags with the perfume?
I´m fascinated by all the perfume talk, but must admit I don´t understand half of it. I´m a user, nothing more... it´s love at first sniff or nothing...

 

[ultravisitor]

You don´t by any chance own an older Dior bag like for example the Gaucho or the New Lock to compare the scent of the bags with the perfume?

No. I am a man, and I don't carry women's bags.

 

[880]

You don´t by any chance own an older Dior bag like for example the Gaucho or the New Lock to compare the scent of the bags with the perfume?
I´m fascinated by all the perfume talk, but must admit I don´t understand half of it. I´m a user, nothing more... it´s love at first sniff or nothing...

Thank-you @880! I really enjoy reading the perfume talk even if I don´t understand half of it and don´t know the fragrances people speak about. It´s a world of its own... I seldom can describe what a perfume smells like, but only can say it makes me feel good or not.

I absolutely agree with you and with @Cookiefiend that it’s mainly important to just find and wear perfume that makes you feel good! Perfumer Guy Robert who made the Gres Water hyacinth perfume Chouda (referenced above to @Purses & Perfumes) said, “When asked about his definition of a beautiful perfume . . . “You don’t have to make it complicated–you have to smell good [wearing it].” see, https://boisdejasmin.com/2012/05/in-tribute-to-perfumer-guy-robert.html

But if one is trying to find a specific note, like leather, and cannot run to a boutique SA to ask or to sample, it’s helpful to know where to start looking. (Kind of like wine at a store or a restaurant). it’s my own pet peeve, but a description of a wine as dry is not accurate when it’s commonly meant to refer to one that is not sweet. I’d rather: tannic, salty, mineral, full bodied etc etc. The analogy to a clothes, since you sew, could also be made (but what direction should the description go)
shape: pencil or a line;
length: mini, midi, maxi;
definitive style detail: cargo, paper bag waist; jogger;
tactile: soft, scratchy. Smooth, silky;
fabric: wool boucle, silk charmeuse; poplin; techno taffeta etc.

Perfume terms may seem esoteric, but that’s bc they are trying to describe feelings that they evoke. . . Sometimes, if you are lucky, in their definition, several types of perfumes will be mentioned. Thus, in the definition of Leather accord, Bois de Jasmine writes:

Leathery—a note recalling the tangy and animalic quality of fine leather. It can be smoky and dry like the birch tar based leather of Chanel Cuir de Russie, Knize Ten or Serge Lutens Cuir Mauresque. Or the leather note can be salty and green like the leather in Robert Piguet Bandit andAramis.

See, https://boisdejasmin.com/2012/02/speaking-perfume-a-z-of-common-fragrance-descriptions.html

otherwise, like many perfume lovers, you send up with shoe boxes filled with samples and nothing to wear when you don’t feel like reading the name on the vials. . .

apologies for the length of these posts! I didn’t mean to hijack the thread!

 

[cowgirlsboots]

No. I am a man, and I don't carry women's bags.

Oops, sorry! I didn´t think and certainly did not want to offend you!

 

[cowgirlsboots]

I absolutely agree with you and with @Cookiefiend that it’s mainly important to just find and wear perfume that makes you feel good! Perfumer Guy Robert who made the Gres Water hyacinth perfume Chouda (referenced above to @Purses & Perfumes) said, “When asked about his definition of a beautiful perfume . . . “You don’t have to make it complicated–you have to smell good [wearing it].” see, https://boisdejasmin.com/2012/05/in-tribute-to-perfumer-guy-robert.html

But if one is trying to find a specific note, like leather, and cannot run to a boutique SA to ask or to sample, it’s helpful to know where to start looking. (Kind of like wine at a store or a restaurant). it’s my own pet peeve, but a description of a wine as dry is not accurate when it’s commonly meant to refer to one that is not sweet. I’d rather: tannic, salty, mineral, full bodied etc etc. The analogy to a clothes, since you sew, could also be made (but what direction should the description go)
shape: pencil or a line;
length: mini, midi, maxi;
definitive style detail: cargo, paper bag waist; jogger;
tactile: soft, scratchy. Smooth, silky;
fabric: wool boucle, silk charmeuse; poplin; techno taffeta etc.

Perfume terms may seem esoteric, but that’s bc they are trying to describe feelings that they evoke. . . Sometimes, if you are lucky, in their definition, several types of perfumes will be mentioned. Thus, in the definition of Leather accord, Bois de Jasmine writes:

Leathery—a note recalling the tangy and animalic quality of fine leather. It can be smoky and dry like the birch tar based leather of Chanel Cuir de Russie, Knize Ten or Serge Lutens Cuir Mauresque. Or the leather note can be salty and green like the leather in Robert Piguet Bandit andAramis.

See, https://boisdejasmin.com/2012/02/speaking-perfume-a-z-of-common-fragrance-descriptions.html

otherwise, like many perfume lovers, you send up with shoe boxes filled with samples and nothing to wear when you don’t feel like reading the name on the vials. . .

apologies for the length of these posts! I didn’t mean to hijack the thread!

Thank you so much for this post dear @880!
I begin to understand: there´s a specific language describing perfume, like notes describe music- the latter is a total mystery to me, but I´ll try to find a description of the scent I am looking for. It should not be that hard as basically all I´ll have to do is to put the Dior handbag scent into words... Today I did not have the inner peace to attempt it, but I will!

Thank-you for the link to the perfume language dictionary!

I have never had the chance to experience Cuir de Russie. But I have a vintage German Leather perfume people say is down the same road. It´s not what I am trying to find now. I experience it as very demanding, it takes control over me- energizing in a "strike a pose", "pounce" way. It offers no peace, no embrace.

 

[880]

have a vintage German Leather perfume people say is down the same road. It´s not what I am trying to find now. I experience it as very demanding, it takes control over me- energizing in a "strike a pose", "pounce" way. It offers no peace, no embrace.

This is interesting. It seems like the description above that cuir can age is like fine glove leather would be perfect for you. PIf your leather perfume is very demanding, (perhaps too much birch tar?) I would also suggest, if it is in a spray atomizer, that is the most aggressive way to experience it. I would disable the spray and dab it very sparingly and then wa8t for it to evolve. (this is of course only if you want to use it at all). It’s notkolnisch juchten perfume?

i did run a search out of curiosity for soft leather in the boisdejasmine site and came up with this thread that seemed to recommend two others a bottega Veneta fragrance and an Hermes cuir ange

leather fragrances Archives - Bois de Jasmin

boisdejasmin.com

I don’t think le labo labdanum 18 is mentioned in the soft leather category, but I think it should be. It’s a bit powdery, but it is leathery from start to finish, and some reviewers liken it to sueded leather.

you should be able to get a sample of cuir cannage on eBay, but if it’s too hard to get a sample, I would suggest Lutens Cir Mauresque. I’m also not sure if it makes a difference what year to get. it seems cuir cannage came out in 2012 and was reformulated at least once (possibly as late as 2018. my general preference when sampling is for the earlier formulation. The perfume reviewer kafkaesque describes cuir mauresque as a luxury leather car interior doused in fine cognac. https://kafkaesqueblog.com/2013/03/02/perfume-review-serge-lutens-cuir-mauresque-classic-sex-appeal/.
Hugs

 

[ultravisitor]

you should be able to get a sample of cuir cannage on eBay, but if it’s too hard to get a sample, I would suggest Lutens Cir Mauresque. I’m also not sure if it makes a difference what year to get. it seems cuir cannage came out in 2012 and was reformulated at least once (possibly as late as 2018. my general preference when sampling is for the earlier formulation.

Actually, Cuir Cannage is from 2014, and I don't believe it was reformulated at all as it wasn't even really available for very long. By 2018, its distribution had been restricted to Paris. There might be some bottles of it in stores outside of Paris, but if so, those are just old stock. So if she manages to find a sample of it and likes it enough for a full bottle, it won't be very easy to get. One of the reasons I ended up buying it is because I was at Saks in 2018, and they had a bottle of it. I thought it had been discontinued for the US, so I asked, and the SA confirmed that it was, so I bought it.

Dior's entire exclusive line was relaunched somewhere around 2018, and I believe the ones that hung around were reformulated around that time. Not Cuir Cannage, though. They just pulled that one from almost every market.

Personally, I don't find Labdanum 18 leathery at all.

 

[HauteMama]

I am completely new to the world of perfume, so I don't have a lot of points of reference. I know what I enjoy smelling in the real world, but am not yet sure how that might translate to perfume. I would LOVE to find a scent with prominent leather notes, but my only points of reference so far are TF Tuscan Leather and TF Ombre Leather. While Ombre Leather is a little smoother, both distinctly turn to a sharp smell - like cat urine - on my skin. TF White Suede leans generically "women's perfume" to me, and I can discern no leather there at all.

I generally prefer unisex scents, possibly leaning toward men's, and TF Oud Wood and TF Tobacco Vanille are my two faves so far. I like woody fragrances and tobacco notes, so I thought Creed Tabarome (with woody, tobacco and leather notes) would be a good idea. But I found it a bit too... fresh? Maybe it is the citrus opening, but it isn't warm enough for me. I tried Le Labo Santal 33, but find it doesn't compare to TF Santal Blush. I also tried Jo Malone English Oak and Hazelnut, but was not impressed. Again, I found it sharp and not warm or welcoming enough, if that makes sense. *sigh* I've spent a fortune on samples. Everyone says TF is overpriced, and I can't argue with that, which is why I'd like to find alternatives, but so far the TF are the only really "unisex" scents I've found - everything else seems to skew obviously male or female or is just plain unpleasant.

 

[ultravisitor]

I am completely new to the world of perfume, so I don't have a lot of points of reference. I know what I enjoy smelling in the real world, but am not yet sure how that might translate to perfume. I would LOVE to find a scent with prominent leather notes, but my only points of reference so far are TF Tuscan Leather and TF Ombre Leather. While Ombre Leather is a little smoother, both distinctly turn to a sharp smell - like cat urine - on my skin. TF White Suede leans generically "women's perfume" to me, and I can discern no leather there at all.

I generally prefer unisex scents, possibly leaning toward men's, and TF Oud Wood and TF Tobacco Vanille are my two faves so far. I like woody fragrances and tobacco notes, so I thought Creed Tabarome (with woody, tobacco and leather notes) would be a good idea. But I found it a bit too... fresh? Maybe it is the citrus opening, but it isn't warm enough for me. I tried Le Labo Santal 33, but find it doesn't compare to TF Santal Blush. I also tried Jo Malone English Oak and Hazelnut, but was not impressed. Again, I found it sharp and not warm or welcoming enough, if that makes sense. *sigh* I've spent a fortune on samples. Everyone says TF is overpriced, and I can't argue with that, which is why I'd like to find alternatives, but so far the TF are the only really "unisex" scents I've found - everything else seems to skew obviously male or female or is just plain unpleasant.

Maybe try Guerlain Cuir Beluga or Derby. You have to try Guerlains on skin, though, to really understand their development. They're not linear like the Tom Fords that you reference.

 

[HauteMama]

Thank you! I will see if I can try those.