I’d saved an older issue of Le Monde, as it has such an interesting article about the artistry involved in creating Hermès horn jewelry. I’ve been meaning to share the text and some of the photos here, and am finally doing so. I hope you enjoy!
Text and photos that follow from “
Le Monde d’Hermès Printemps-Été 2006”
Article header : Ho Chi Minh City, in southern Vietnam, is where the confluence of horn and lacquer produces a rare range of jewelry and objects, from family workshops expert in precision techniques.
Horn and Lacquer - Photos Mai Duong - Text Jean-Jaques Ably
Ho Chi Minh City, in southern Vietnam, is where Hermès jewelry in horn and lacquer comes into the world. Here, and nowhere else, are the family workshops whose craftsmen each master the ideal skills in their respective fields.
You could say that every task in a craft is a journey, implying a point of
departure (the raw material), a destination (the finished object) and a lot of effort in between.
Here, the forms taken by the finished object are necklace, bracelet, earring, barrette and pendant. The raw material is buffalo horn, chosen in pairs and first cut into sheets, lengthwise, after its extremities have been lopped. These sheets are sorted by colour ("marbled sand" for Hermès), and then by thickness, as required by each jewel. Next come all kinds of preliminary operations from the ancient liturgy whereby, since time immemorial, man has magnified nature; softening in warm water mixed with oil, then various processes to straighten and flatten, and compression, for as long as it takes. Thus conquered, the material is set out to dry, then checked once again. A new selection is made and the horn can be shaped and formed by cutting, piercing or hollowing, as the object requires or, even better, as the designer desires. Craftsmanship is not a struggle. It is a quest.
Now comes the scraping, done with infinite care, using different kinds of sandpaper, to reach the required shape and thickness; then, buffing and polishing, removing the slightest scratch so that the sanding is the mere ghost of a memory, and the jewel has a lustre that is like its soul. Now the horn's beauty is in full bloom, ready if wished to be married. As the mood dictates, Hermes may pair it with leather, crystal, or lacquer. The latter combination brings us to the other workshop mentioned above, likewise located in Ho Chi Minh City, which also boasts superb skills.
For this second family team, the goal is not to sculpt but to lacquer. Now, colour must be added to form, charm to character. The horn is inspected anew, scraped again if need be, and polished, before application of the lacquer, a naturally black vegetal resin brought by additional pigments to the required shade. Now come layer upon layer of lacquer, with rubbing, soaking in water and drying between each one. The journey ends with several applications of varnish and a double hand-polishing using powders made from special ash, ground and grilled. And this is to forget the scrupulous inspections at each stage, insisted on by a professional conscience that has surely grown keener over the generations.
Rigour, patience, perfectionism, discipline, and the heartrending moments of rejection that are always a possibility, should there be the slightest flaw. Goethe said that civilisation was characterised by the pursuit of excellence. On the banks of the River Saigon, civilisation abounds in the crafting of horn and lacquer. J-J.A.
Photo caption : In the silent workshop, the final coat of lacquer is applied by brush to a scarf ring. This last layer before the varnish will not be buffed, there is no need.
Photo caption : Horn pendants with lacquered edges and hairpins in lacquered horn laid out to dry with their last coat of lacquer
Photo caption : Top, behind the pieces for pendants, unfinished necklace links (the horn has been cut out and hollowed, but not yet buffed). Bottom, tête—à-tête for the application of lacquer.
Photo caption : The lozenges of a necklace are assembled using small rings, also made of horn.
Photo caption : Sautoir and bracelet in natural and lacquered horn. The lacquer is glossed with a special oil.
Photo caption : Cups holding lacquer. Originally black, this vegetal liquid is coloured using powdered pigments.
I do wear them a lot. I love the Lift design so much! And I can't resist blues and greens in clothes and accessories, so the ones I've chosen easily coordinate with my wardrobe. And white goes with most everything, and is fun in summer. Here's a link to a previous post that shows my collection of colors (excluding my black Lift).
Before I purchased any Hermes horn pieces, I read through this thread a number of times. I was so inspired by all the lovely posts here, and so appreciative of all the info. My Black Lift was my first, too. I think white or off-white would be a fun one for you to have, too. I'd like to add an off-white at some point. You may know this, but if you do see a color you love, consider snapping it up! Many colors are limited edition, and do not appear again. Kind of sad I missed out on a warm, pale pink that was recently offered. I pondered too long! Let us know what you choose next. 
