I’ve met many SAs of different premier brands (H, Chanel, Dior, Brunello) who have expressed sentiments about first floor merchandise. When an SA talks about first floor goods, they mean cosmetics, perfume, sunglasses, small accessories like hair clips, fashion bangles, horn jewelry, as per
@gogingercat . Some of this is not actually lower priced, but premier retail tends to rank accessories clients in a lesser tier than RTW or home. Chanel is the most infamous for this as per many posts by
@TraceySH. I think it’s ironic that Hermes does this too, since H is arguably most well known for its top coveted accessory the B/K/C. There are high value exceptions to first floor merchandise (for example, Chanel 57 has fine jewelry on the first floor, and Hermes has men’s bags and equestrian on one). The reason why this is relevant to an SA relationship, is that people seem to ask all the time on this thread if they should stick to a junior SA who they met when they bought a scarf, or find a more senior SA (to help them get a bag). I say, stick with one with whom you feel comfortable bc some SAs do rotate and a junior SA might even have a lower caseload and be better situated to help.
An experienced SA, at least once you get to know them, might profess dislike of door duty or first floor service, not only bc the smaller items lead to less selling opportunity, but also bc these items tend to attract walk in clients or what they call museum clients. I tease my Dior SA that I met him as a walk in lol. SAs are trained never to dismiss a client based on what he is wearing bc a billionaire could walk in wearing flip flops and a t shirt, but they have mentioned looking for museum like behavior. (When a client walks around, hands behind their back) not interacting with merchandise. These clients are ones that are in the store perhaps bc their reservation at the restaurant next door is delayed, or bc they wish to signal that they are simply browsing and do not wish to be disturbed. I’ve heard this concept expressed by numerous SAs.
Finally, someone above commented on my mention of shoes. I was careless in lumping shoes together with first floor. I meant footwear is a popular category that sells itself, and it can be a drain time wise. A client may ask to see five different pairs to try on, and walk out with none, if none fit. Or, a client may come in and buy five pairs if they know their size. Or a client may try on five or more pairs, walk around, and then demand a fresh pair, which the SA may not have. It is also a category likely to generate returns. No SA is compensated for the time lost in processing a return. A client may also simply stick to shoes and accessories and not graduate to RTW or home, so might lack the potential for growth.
Basically, corporate would like an SA to add as much merchandise to an individual sale as possible. The assumption is that one is less likely to generate high end sale figures or start a fruitful relationship with a walk in client for a single scarf or trinket. Conversely, the assumption is one is more likely to pad a sale for a RTW client who will then need shoes or accessories or perhaps items for the home or gifts. Other TPF members have disagreed, but it’s my strong impression that experienced SAs tend not to want new clients unless that client has the potential to generate maximum income. For Chanel, it’s bc a regular client tends to require special requests (for reserves, sales, or coveted bags), and they dont have the bandwidth or time to take on newcomers without substantial reward. My Chanel SA has refused the last potential client I suggested. For a H SA, they have a hard time fulfilling the expectations of their current clientele.
Commission and bonuses are structured so time is money. If they are rotated down to door duty, they have less opportunity to maximize their selling potential or work with regular clientele. I would not blame an SA for this kind of behavior but rather the corporate culture that cares more about shareholders than customers. apologies for the super lengthy post