Hey Whatev! Thank you so much! Was wondering how you got the 1980 date for your bag?
I checked the US Patent and Trademark Office website and the trademark Registration on the Coach cartouche was issued December 18, 1984, so that means Coach would have had from December, 1984, plus the time to update the stamps for the use of the (R) on the creed. They filed their trademark application in June 1983, so even if they used the (R) before the trademark registration issued (which is a huge no-no and illegal), I would be surprised if they used the (R) before they had even filed the application to register the trademark in 1980.
It is also interesting that they claimed a first use date of May, 1963 (19630500) for the class of goods that includes purses, so they were using the Coach trademark in this specific cartouche configuration in connection with bags going back to that date. (Which would also have to exclude Coach's traditional leather goods since that would go back to the 1940s.) The bags were probably sold in packaging or they had a label attached.
http://tess2.uspto.gov/bin/showfield?f=doc&state=4801:ng3ygl.6.1
I also saw your thoughts on "the first Coach bag" being a tote rather than the Pouch -I saw this auction and wondered if the teal bag might be one of those early bags. It clearly has the same handle attachments some of Coach's early totes and doesn't seem to say Coach on it - but the striped lining (which is different than Cashin's Mexican cotton) and the "GLOVE TANNED COWHIDE" stamp make me wonder whether that could be one of those early bags.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-COA...CY-STRIPE-KISSLOCK-COLOR-UNIQUE-/261202934226
Interestingly, this Bonnie Cashin bag has the same lining as the teal bag (based on the maroon blue brown pattern shown on the far right of the teal bag). I wonder if she started using Coach striped lining and then updated it.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Coach-Vtg-6...GACY-STRIPE-2-Labels-RARE-COLOR-/300882047988
Based just on the catalogs, Coach was using the "registered" mark in their catalogs at least as early as 1979, although usage was kind of hit-or-miss based on the first page shown below. The word "Coach" by itself usually doesn't have the mark, but the terms "Coach Leatherware" and "Coach bag" usually do. Maybe bags made during that period may have had the mark on the creed since the term "Coach bag" was used there too.
It was also used in the early 1980s, second pic is from a 1981 catalog, the third pic is the cover of the same catalog. By the end of the 80s its use had been reduced to maybe as little as two times per catalog, maybe the first and last pages, which was probably enough to satisfy Sara Lee's legal department. They also used it the first time they mentioned a specific line, like "Coach Spectator" or "Coach Business".
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