Hermès SS24 RTW & Accessories: Show and Discussion

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Thank you @Angelian , @carrie8 , @allanrvj , all for posting the looks. They seem to reference the 1990s for me.

Agree with @Senbei, @haute okole , @maxroxxherhandbags and others re the impossibility of wearability, and with others re the color palette. While the clothes are beautiful on the runway, and I love the reds, as per @demicouture , it doesn’t seem like they will translate well. I have a graffiti dress from last summer whose bodice is so tiny that I basically wear it as a skirt, with a top over it, and I am not super endowed. pasties could not fit under that bodice, and they can’t fit under these either. I love the leather lined zip tops, but they are a riff on the more wearable mens sweaters from last year. Nadege carried those concepts forward, along with the reverse racer back tops (which are not flattering to women of a certain age) and the apron dress from last year. I don’t know who among us bought the apron dress, but I tried it on in Paris, and both DH and SA cringed and gave a strong thumbs down. The SA said very few clients could pull off a backless look that bisects the body and shortens the leg.

I agree with @papertiger that I’d wear the 90s utility apron look, if it were remotely doable with my body type, age, and lifestyle, but it’s not. And with @A.Ali , that we could simply use something sexy and flattering. Our SAs all know this, and there is universal sentiment (from all brands every year) that designers don’t typically take practical feedback into account. Runway is fantasy.

@carrie8 posted a pic of a mini dress that courrege did in all black last year, at a fraction of the price point. I passed on that one too, but it was very reminiscent of a dress I wanted to buy in 1993 when I was in law school. I also remember the exaggerated paper bag waists from the late 1990’s. I’m glad that Nadege is referencing the red and brown tones she did in the fall 2018 collection bc I just bought a dark red deadstock leather trench from that collection (Runway 2018 pic of the trench below) So, for me at least, she is sending the message that older looks (at least from her past collections) can easily be mixed in. It will end up saving some coin lol. @haute okole , your year of austerity could start with this :P

While there are some smaller bags, she seems to be sliding larger bags back in, and has done that for quite some time. So we can all shop our respective closets lol. This has convinced me to branch out from the usual QB and I might add a plume and another bolide into the rotation. I like the mini arcon, but prefer bags that have a top handheld option bc it’s better for the clothes.

The H dress that courreges did in black last year, and my red leather trench runway 2018, look 24. The shoulder apron epaulettes can be unbuckled to reveal a plain red leather coat which is actually closer to SS24’s plainer leather coats.
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The colors just didn't scream "spring" to me - they seemed more fitting for fall.
Agreed the color palette is very much for fall (because of the deep hues) but I'm also very excited for the red hues as I am hoping this would mean there would be many complementary red tone accessories (scarves and slg) that will be coming out to match (I have a thing for red wallets)!
 
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Do you guys ever think that the chosen color palette a possible Hermès commentary regarding global warming? That we are very much approaching fall but in a lot of places the temperatures still feel summery? :thinking:

I don't know why I said that. I'm just dying... to dance! :happydance:

Clients come from all over the world, it's an international company, and the RTW goes in the stores (almost) the same time, Paris or Sydney. A lot of brands now do trans-seasonal pieces twice a year (plus Cruise and Pre-fall - with or without publicity). The fact H does the same dress in leather and (presumably) cotton, a leather dress with an open back and short-sleeves all plays to their clients as globe trotters, heating in cold weather climes and AC's when it's hot. Apart from visual semiotics, and perhaps less coats, I don't think thinking about practical considerations and seasonal appropriateness is a consideration.

I thought the earth (clay, mud, bark, terracotta, sand, chalk, iron-ore) colours of SS24 were beautiful, but they could as easily translated to AW as to SS.

I don't think it's a bad thing either. Gone are the days when people only wore florals in spring, safari shorts in Summer, cashmere wrap in Fall and mink in Winter. We've all gone pretty casual ourselves.
 
Clients come from all over the world, it's an international company, and the RTW goes in the stores (almost) the same time, Paris or Sydney. A lot of brands now do trans-seasonal pieces twice a year (plus Cruise and Pre-fall - with or without publicity). The fact H does the same dress in leather and (presumably) cotton, a leather dress with an open back and short-sleeves all plays to their clients as globe trotters, heating in cold weather climes and AC's when it's hot. Apart from visual semiotics, and perhaps less coats, I don't think thinking about practical considerations and seasonal appropriateness is a consideration.

I thought the earth (clay, mud, bark, terracotta, sand, chalk, iron-ore) colours of SS24 were beautiful, but they could as easily translated to AW as to SS.

I don't think it's a bad thing either. Gone are the days when people only wore floral in spring, safari shots in Summer, cashmere wrap in Fall and mink in Winter. We've all pretty casual ourselves.
There may also be a commercial consideration that will keep clients coming back in during the ‘off season’ of the garments they are looking for. (Hope that sentence made sense lol). My dior SA says the reason why we can no longer view collections in their entirety is that companies deliberately stagger product in waves. So the client that once came in four times a year, now has to come in every few weeks, or when notified. They may not buy their entire wardrobe in a few visits, but it’s possible that they spend as much or more due to frequency of visits.

ETA: due to the advance nature of the runway, if they buy something in the off season, it’s possible that they will be able to wear the item in real time
 
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@mmvv22 probably inspired by a Farriers apron tbh.

If you go to the demonstrations most of the artisans and saddlers wear an Hermes leather apron. Somewhere I have a picture of saddlery artisan at the Windsor Horse Show (I won't write his name here) and he is wearing a red-brown leather H apron (possibly lamb). If anyone remembers the Petit H launch, everything for the decor, including leather was in that red-brown colour, including the colour of my Ltd Ed print. I'll find a pic on my phone later and add it in. Must be a traditional colour for H.
 
Loved the show and the color palette, even though I agree it is not very springy.
Loved that there are several skirts for this season and I am looking foward seeing them, hoping that my boutique ordered the right size( that’s another story lol)
 
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