Well, it was very nice that my SA thought to invite me. As you entered Madison, there were some mannequins decked out in RTW. Up one flight of stairs, there was a more comprehensive selection than normal. There were a few appetizers and summery drink trays being passed around, but they were mostly ignored bc of the need to touch and try on clothes. DH said that there was also a tall model in the RTW that I didn’t notice.
The RTW area is not that big, with a very limited dressing room area. There was some seating for DHs, significant others, children, crying babies, and dogs. It was loud, noisy, and Madison air conditioning is miserable on the second floor, so you immediately knew you would want to limit your time up there. The RTW area was cordoned off which felt a bit low rent. After a brief hesitation, it seemed like everyone simultaneously got the idea that they had better grab what appealed to them off the racks. Lots of the women were trying on coats and things on the floor. I raced over to the dark neutral colored rack and loaded DH up with some hangers. I also used him to hold down the dressing room. (DH was a good sport but felt this was not exactly a luxury experience, more like a sample sale). If you are serious about RTW, I would recommend skipping the opening and going when it’s less packed.
In previous seasons when my H SA invited me for RTW, the head of RTW would come and chat and confer with my SA. Then stuff would be brought to a dressing room. This was a bit more random, and very different from chanel, brunello, or dior, or honestly even FSH Hermes, where your SA will reserve a room or area with a rack of items in your size, all waiting for you to try privately. At brunello, good clients can even shop the entire season and order customized trunk show RTW at the corporate showrooms. The SAs I observed, seemed to spend a lot of time locating stock or pulling sizes; some item sticker sizes were mislabeled; and, they seemed to be somewhat hindered by lack of organization. It also didn’t seem like any of the SAs were given much opportunity to familiarize themselves with the stock, models, or fit. (This is only my impression; it might simply be bc it is early days).
I was told that everything on the white racks were items that must be ordered; the stuff on the regular racks could be sold. The problem was lack of sizes on both racks. It doesnt seem like Madison is getting a full selection of styles, colors, or sizes; the implication being, if you think you might want something, just order bc you may not get a second chance. (No obligation, if you don’t like it, I got the impression someone else will likely buy it). The other problem is that the sizes this season varied greatly from prior seasons. i am a size 6-8 US; 38-40 chanel; 38 eu/42 it brunello; 40-42 Dior dress; and, a 38 Hermes (coat, pant, jacket, sweater) . I needed a 34 in some of the coats, bombers, or jackets; twillane 34; pants, I went up to a 40 IDKW. the sizing made no sense to me.
I am 5’2, broad shouldered; medium build; relatively thick waisted, and in no way am I a 34. The H sizes ran so large that I felt a 40 or 42 jacket would be comparable to a size 48 or 50 chanel or dior). Actual size 34 individuals will be out of luck this season. In additon, many dresses and caftan type things are full and long, so not for me. I ended up ordering a black and white stretchy patterned bomber type jacket with a white zipper around 2275 USD, in 34 or 36, and a neon trimmed H pattern trench 3800 USD, (size 36 was enormous), so size 34. It was not easy to visualize what to order bc nothing comparable was my size. Both DH and my SA dislike the bathrobe like twillane on me, so I just tried it on for size comparison to other items. I did try on a lot of other stuff, but rejected them, so did not inc pics. I only saw one significant runway piece, see last pic.
For premier luxury designer RTW, some of the synthetic stretch items are relatively well priced. The items in natural fibers tend to be simple designs presumably so a variety of body types and sizes can fit. H pants are a lot less expensive than Brunello, but they lack structure. I rejected a slightly stretchy, high waisted,white, cropped jersey trouser 1375 USD bc the waistband wasn’t reinforced and was rolling down even when hanging. If sizes aren’t consistent from season to season, that also makes it a bit harder to buy without extensive try ons. I felt that the toile jacket I picked up on a random visit a few weeks before was better crafted, albeit significantly more expensive, than almost anything else at this event. JMO of course, and YMMV.
Note: the graffiti slip dress from last season that I am wearing is a size 38.
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