It’s clear there’s dumping of ancillary product on the secondary market but it may not indicate that Hermes isn’t competitive in the RTW category. (I’m NOT sure they want to be competitive as evidenced in part by what they put out and who’s designing it.) The dumped products might rather indicate that some of the people who buy it have no intrinsic interest in it, it’s merely, as they see it, a means to an end. Thus it’s over- bought.I think this makes for a good thought exercise, for sure!
One reason I've heard elsewhere as to why the company doesn't do this is because it would cause a (likely precipitous) decline in the sale of their other items. I think they want to be perceived as competitive in things like RTW and jewelry as other brands, even though the resale value of BNIB items indicates they're not. So, the hope may be that those who only bought a sweater because it helped them get a Birkin may be converted to buying RTW because they find it's actually good quality and they like the design. Then maybe they'll buy RTW independent of its tie with a bag. Customer acquisition (even for its other departments) is expensive, and if it becomes free due to prespend, that's HUGE. The customer who buys from all metiers with no perception that it links to a bag is "the ideal customer" because it's what provides the most longevity to the brand. I don't fault the company for this, but it points to a small issue:
Most businesses have to innovate and design to keep competitive. Hermes runs the risk of using prespend as a crutch. Hermes acquired a customer for its jewelry but it needs to retain her too. It's very easy for a company to become complacent and tempting as well.
So yeah, I think they don't just triple the price of Bs and Ks is because it serves their overall business, esp for the other departments that could use some boosting. Plus it might allow them to experiment more than they would otherwise: "we're gonna branch out into watches! It's going to be difficult to make inroads but let's give our SAs a high commission on these items and a few extra SO offers for the season to emphasize focus on these new offerings." In essence, bags can provide a nice subsidy and reduce some of the risk. They can't do that if there's a set price on Bs and Ks. I believe this is also the reasoning for why it intentionally limits production, and even if it could wave a wand and have B/K supply meet demand, it would not do so.
Hermes probably thinks it’s very competitive in the market they want to attract, and based on the RTW offerings I don’t think that market has changed very much, and certainly not in any radical, fashion-forward way.
As for your point about innovation, I think many would agree that some innovation is lacking. I certainly think it’s time for Pierre Hardy to find something else to do for example, but I do like some of the petit H items. I believe in reuse and recycling so I’m not deterred by the argument that they’re sweeping the shop floors and selling what’s in the dust bin to make money. I’ve seen how much silk doesn’t pass quality control and it would be heartbreaking were it simply destroyed as some companies have done. (Me, sipping on the Kool-aid

As for boosting the other departments, before the BKC social media blow-up, I wonder if the balance between metiers was more in line, because the client who liked the bags would probably like the other stuff too. I’m thinking back to when ‘old lady bags’ like the bolide, and GHW were in vogue

I’m still thinking that a few more hefty price increases should do the trick. They can set the price wherever they want to. They’ll have plenty of funds for experimentation in other areas too.

ETA: I wanted to clarify my statement about Hermes’ goals in the RTW metier. I don’t think their RTW agenda is to be competitive with other fashion houses; I think they’ve been content to go their own ‘equestrian inspired, double-faced cashmere, silk twillaine way because that’s who their customer has been historically. Social media has put them on blast, and in some fashion circles they’ve been found wanting.
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