Coach Rehab and Rescue Club

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Just a question which I thought of last night - sometimes when I get a bag I change the placement of the buckle and sometimes the strap curls at the ends - does anyone have a solution on how to make the strap lay flatter? I just thought about it last night and thought I would ask to see if anyone has come up with a solution. Happy New Year to everyone!

I have straightened curled straps by washing the bag with the strap unbuckled, then stretching it and laying it out flat to dry. I have never tried to uncurl a strap without washing it so I don't have any other suggestions. Maybe try securing the curled end with a rubber band and storeing it that way to see if it helps? Or move the buckle to the lowest position and store it (and/or wear it) that way for awhile? But I don't know if any of those ideas would actually work. Let us know what you figure out!
 
Well, I just put this baby in the tub..

IMG_20111230_201412.jpg


My bucket is still getting conditioned and buffed (I'm not seeing a whole lot of shine here..) and though the buckles aren't too bad, I'm considering getting better polish. Brasso doesn't seem to be working too well (reviews say they changed formulae, so I might try a different polish one of these days).

Those smooshed areas (the one near the base, and the corners near the handle/buckles) are still smooshy. I have this feeling that all the washing won't help with those, but I suppose they will add character to it. Still smooshy bottom pretty obvious in this pic, but the color looks washed out. I need to take better pics :P

Can also see some discoloration in the upper corners.. There're some cracks in the leather on the upper left, apparently, which weren't obvious pre-wash and buff, but still not bad, I think, for a first try.

IMG_20111231_093551.jpg


I still might give it another dunk one of these days (after some of the others get their turn in the tub/lab) and scrub in an attempt to get the piping lightened (among other things) - I don't recall them to be that dark pre-dunk, but then I did forget to take before pics, so I can't be 100% sure.
 
katev said:
I might try steaming too. Be careful, Jessi said that she got impatient and made the iron too hot and it actually damaged the leather!

I haven't tried the iron trick on leather, but have done it a bunch on wood and it works very well. I have made almost invisible some deep gouges in furniture.

The cloth needs to be damp enough to steam, but not dripping wet. If you have a bag that is still slightly damp, I think that would likely work better - as you need the steam to get down into the leather fibres to lift and plump them up (still use a damp towel to protect the bag, same as ironing silk.) Try to keep the iron so that you aren't putting the whole thing down, just the tip without too much tilt. And not too hot, as katev says, and check your progress frequently. You can leave it on a while if it isn't too hot and you keep checking. And on bad spots, do repeat iron treatments. It once took me three or four sessions of 10-15 minutes to get out a deep gouge out of my grandmother's antique chest.
 
I haven't tried the iron trick on leather, but have done it a bunch on wood and it works very well. I have made almost invisible some deep gouges in furniture.

The cloth needs to be damp enough to steam, but not dripping wet. If you have a bag that is still slightly damp, I think that would likely work better - as you need the steam to get down into the leather fibres to lift and plump them up (still use a damp towel to protect the bag, same as ironing silk.) Try to keep the iron so that you aren't putting the whole thing down, just the tip without too much tilt. And not too hot, as katev says, and check your progress frequently. You can leave it on a while if it isn't too hot and you keep checking. And on bad spots, do repeat iron treatments. It once took me three or four sessions of 10-15 minutes to get out a deep gouge out of my grandmother's antique chest.

I never heard of steaming damaged wood, thanks!
 
Well, I just put this baby in the tub..

My bucket is still getting conditioned and buffed (I'm not seeing a whole lot of shine here..) and though the buckles aren't too bad, I'm considering getting better polish. Brasso doesn't seem to be working too well (reviews say they changed formulae, so I might try a different polish one of these days).

Those smooshed areas (the one near the base, and the corners near the handle/buckles) are still smooshy. I have this feeling that all the washing won't help with those, but I suppose they will add character to it. Still smooshy bottom pretty obvious in this pic, but the color looks washed out. I need to take better pics :P

Can also see some discoloration in the upper corners.. There're some cracks in the leather on the upper left, apparently, which weren't obvious pre-wash and buff, but still not bad, I think, for a first try.

I still might give it another dunk one of these days (after some of the others get their turn in the tub/lab) and scrub in an attempt to get the piping lightened (among other things) - I don't recall them to be that dark pre-dunk, but then I did forget to take before pics, so I can't be 100% sure.

I love the black bag, is it a Basic Bag? British Tan can be challenging and the piping may have darkend after cleaning and conditioning - just as the leather of the bag darkend. You may never be able to get it the way you'd like it. I have had some disappointments with BT bags. Definitely good for a first try!

You might try tying it up in a pillow case (or a net lingerie/laundry bag) and cycling it through the washer on delicate. You can try using Woolite, or I use Leather Therapy's Laundry Solution and sometimes it helps. I buy it at the equestrian store, but you can also order it online:
http://www.leathertherapy.com/products/LEATHER-LAUNDRY-SOLUTION.html

And again, Black Rock Leather N Rich conditioner might help to even out the colors a bit.

I've pretty much given up on Brasso for polishing the hardware. dstalksalot makes jewelry and she recommends Wenol polish and I have found it to be superior, plus it can be used on a variety of metals. I buy it online, here is an auction on ebay (NMA)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/WENOL-METAL-POLISH-/300637302782?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item45ff612ffe

I have heard that you can get Wenol at Auto supply stores but I've tried a few without any luck.

She also recommends using a dremel - a small power towel for cleaning and polishing metal. My husband bought me a dremel with an attachment kit for Christmas and I am looking forward to trying it out!

I try to buy inexpensive bags for my projects but I spend a lot on cleaning supplies! I tell myself that I will use them on many bags so they are not really all that costly!
 
According to hyacinth, it is a Multi-zip bag from '95. I have it in navy blue as well. So far, so good. I have it all toweled up now - stuffed to shape, and currently wrapped. Is there any reason we're using towels and/or rags? Are they supposed to keep the leather from drying too fast, or something else to that effect? Because if so, I need to start wrapping my straps too - wondering if I caused the cracks in the leather strap of the bucket by not wrapping in a towel.

I was excited about the color of the bucket - even though it's uneven, it's still a nice, richer brown than when I first got it. I see how it's very challenging though. You can definitely see all the variations and changes in color. I'm starting to think of it as my franken-purse. I think I'll probably get that Black Rock from a tack shop nearby - there are a couple within 10 miles, of home, I think? I'll check out other alternatives that they have too.

About putting bags through the washer - we have the kind of washer with the agitator going up the center (not sure what it's called.. top loading?) so I'm worried that the bag will get too beat up, even with the delicate cycle.. What do you think?

I wish I'd known about Brasso being not up to snuff anymore before getting it. At 3 bucks, I suppose I could still use it for random metal things at home (like the fireplace screen? Heh) but I will definitely be looking at Wenol. Or whatever else they have at the auto shops - I'm sure whatever the local Harley riders use must be available, and by golly the chrome on their bikes do shine!

And, I do have a dremel! I'm not sure if I have the polishing bits (I used it for glass etching and some carving) but bits shouldn't be too hard to find. I know Lowe's and Home Depot both have those polishing packs, so it would just be a matter of buying them. I did consider getting a very fine grain sander bit to see if I can get pits out of the brass (but test on other metals around the house first) and get a newer look out of them..

I hit another goodwill last night, but resisted getting the purses they had. It really wasn't hard to resist since the gal behind the counter wasn't being very helpful. Such a shame since they had at least 3 coaches, and a few other nice looking leather bags. Also, I have quite a queue now - hubby snickered when he gave me my good morning kiss because he caught a glimpse of my purses all lined up under my desk (trying to be inconspicuous). A few minutes later, the doorbell rang - and a Large Saddle Pouch (style 9585, mid-late 70s, also according to hyacinth) joined the line.. :laugh:

I love the black bag, is it a Basic Bag? British Tan can be challenging and the piping may have darkend after cleaning and conditioning - just as the leather of the bag darkend. You may never be able to get it the way you'd like it. I have had some disappointments with BT bags. Definitely good for a first try!

You might try tying it up in a pillow case (or a net lingerie/laundry bag) and cycling it through the washer on delicate. You can try using Woolite, or I use Leather Therapy's Laundry Solution and sometimes it helps. I buy it at the equestrian store, but you can also order it online:
http://www.leathertherapy.com/products/LEATHER-LAUNDRY-SOLUTION.html

And again, Black Rock Leather N Rich conditioner might help to even out the colors a bit.

I've pretty much given up on Brasso for polishing the hardware. dstalksalot makes jewelry and she recommends Wenol polish and I have found it to be superior, plus it can be used on a variety of metals. I buy it online, here is an auction on ebay (NMA)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/WENOL-METAL-POLISH-/300637302782?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item45ff612ffe

I have heard that you can get Wenol at Auto supply stores but I've tried a few without any luck.

She also recommends using a dremel - a small power towel for cleaning and polishing metal. My husband bought me a dremel with an attachment kit for Christmas and I am looking forward to trying it out!

I try to buy inexpensive bags for my projects but I spend a lot on cleaning supplies! I tell myself that I will use them on many bags so they are not really all that costly!
 
I haven't tried the iron trick on leather, but have done it a bunch on wood and it works very well. I have made almost invisible some deep gouges in furniture.

The cloth needs to be damp enough to steam, but not dripping wet. If you have a bag that is still slightly damp, I think that would likely work better - as you need the steam to get down into the leather fibres to lift and plump them up (still use a damp towel to protect the bag, same as ironing silk.) Try to keep the iron so that you aren't putting the whole thing down, just the tip without too much tilt. And not too hot, as katev says, and check your progress frequently. You can leave it on a while if it isn't too hot and you keep checking. And on bad spots, do repeat iron treatments. It once took me three or four sessions of 10-15 minutes to get out a deep gouge out of my grandmother's antique chest.

That seems to be sound advice! I heard about steaming hardwood floors, but I never connected the process to leather. I'll keep this in mind for when I find another stubborn dent/crease. Should my franken-purse take another soak, then I will definitely try it out. Thanks!
 
According to hyacinth, it is a Multi-zip bag from '95. I have it in navy blue as well. So far, so good. I have it all toweled up now - stuffed to shape, and currently wrapped. Is there any reason we're using towels and/or rags? Are they supposed to keep the leather from drying too fast, or something else to that effect? Because if so, I need to start wrapping my straps too - wondering if I caused the cracks in the leather strap of the bucket by not wrapping in a towel...About putting bags through the washer - we have the kind of washer with the agitator going up the center (not sure what it's called.. top loading?) so I'm worried that the bag will get too beat up, even with the delicate cycle.. What do you think?...

And, I do have a dremel! I'm not sure if I have the polishing bits (I used it for glass etching and some carving) but bits shouldn't be too hard to find. I know Lowe's and Home Depot both have those polishing packs, so it would just be a matter of buying them. I did consider getting a very fine grain sander bit to see if I can get pits out of the brass (but test on other metals around the house first) and get a newer look out of them...A few minutes later, the doorbell rang - and a Large Saddle Pouch (style 9585, mid-late 70s according to hyacinth) joined the line.. :laugh:

The multi-zip is cute! I have some basic bags with 2 straps but I know that they started making them with 1 strap so I just wondered.

The towels are mostly to shape the bag and help with drying. The straps dry first and I don't wrap them up but sometimes I condition them while they are still damp.

I have a front loading HE washer that doesn't have an agitator so I don't know how your washer will affect bags, but leather is a very tough, resilient and forgiving material. Perhaps you could try with an inexpensive bag first?

I will be asking you for advice with the dremel as I have never used one!

I have a standard sized British Tan Saddle Pouch 9590 and it was a tough rehab but it eventually worked out, see the thread below. Good luck!

http://forum.purseblog.com/coach/bag-cost-5-bucks-lot-work-rehab-reveal-698096.html
 
Nothing new, I am just updating this thread with my most recent rehab projects for future reference.

Gramercy Zip 7001:
http://forum.purseblog.com/coach/now-cousin-has-come-over-italy-join-family-717893.html

Multiple rehabs including: willis, city, station, court, ergo pocket, soho flap, sonoma drawstring, and brighton:
http://forum.purseblog.com/coach/christmas-rehab-gift-extravaganza-nine-bags-given-away-721572.html

Use of metallic paint to cover damage on Copper Zoe 12669:
http://forum.purseblog.com/coach/us...age-damaged-metallic-leather-pics-722169.html
 
So I was wondering.. when stuffing, how do you do it such that you get the right shape, without stretching the leather/ overstuffing? And how do you rehab goddesses get the flaps to dry right, such that it looks the way it's supposed to look?
 
So I was wondering.. when stuffing, how do you do it such that you get the right shape, without stretching the leather/ overstuffing? And how do you rehab goddesses get the flaps to dry right, such that it looks the way it's supposed to look?

Well I'm no goddess (I'm a whisperer!) but I just stuff them and shape them with my hands until they look okay to me and I turn the bags over a few times while they are drying.

I usually leave the flaps open and straight and they seem to dry the right way. I often put a washcloth or small clean rag inside pockets to help them dry but I am careful not to overstuff pockets because I don't want them to dry out of shape.

I disconnect and/or unbuckle straps when that is an option and stretch them out straight and turn them periodically. I remove the hangtags and wash them as well and just set them out flat to dry, turning them once or twice.

Nothing special but the bags usually come out with a nice, normal shape.
 
I haven't tried the iron trick on leather, but have done it a bunch on wood and it works very well. I have made almost invisible some deep gouges in furniture.

The cloth needs to be damp enough to steam, but not dripping wet. If you have a bag that is still slightly damp, I think that would likely work better - as you need the steam to get down into the leather fibres to lift and plump them up (still use a damp towel to protect the bag, same as ironing silk.) Try to keep the iron so that you aren't putting the whole thing down, just the tip without too much tilt. And not too hot, as katev says, and check your progress frequently. You can leave it on a while if it isn't too hot and you keep checking. And on bad spots, do repeat iron treatments. It once took me three or four sessions of 10-15 minutes to get out a deep gouge out of my grandmother's antique chest.

Not to get off topic, but irr_actor, can you share the process you use to steam wood? I have a lovely wooden trunk that was a wedding gift that a lamp fell on and now it has an unsightly gouge right in the top :( It has dark stain and a satin finish, if you need that information. Thanks for the help, and sorry for getting off topic :smile1:
 
Hi, I not sure if I'm in the right place?Anyway I need help cleaning a Coach coin case I'm not sure what kind of leather it is.It has a soft feel and texture to it.The inside is clean but I'm having trouble with the outside.I also need help cleaning the leather trim and bottom of a Coach transatlantic flight bag,can I use saddle soap,mink oil or apple leather conditioner for any of these Coach items?For the transatlantic bag the leather edges are worn,how can I fix this.Thanks for any and all help!:smile1:


Link:http://s1231.photobucket.com/albums/ee511/iwashere7/?albumview=slideshow
 
YokelMel said:
Not to get off topic, but irr_actor, can you share the process you use to steam wood? I have a lovely wooden trunk that was a wedding gift that a lamp fell on and now it has an unsightly gouge right in the top :( It has dark stain and a satin finish, if you need that information. Thanks for the help, and sorry for getting off topic :smile1:

Sorry to hear that - but it should be easy to fix. I'll gu e a few pointers since the same process probably works r wood and letter, and PM me for specifics.

1 - make sure water doesn't mess up the finish - the wood needs to be damp. If glasses leave a water ring, use a different method (filler putty) also, no melting finishes - if possible, test the heat in a hidden spot. Waxed furniture has worked well tho. So no worries with that. If the finish isn't permeable (e.g., polyurethane), prick holes with a needle. If you aren't sure about the finish - there are some tricks to figuring it out (does the wood grain show, tests with alcohol or lacquer thinner in hidden areas...)
2 - get the wood damp directly, or use. Damp (but not dripping wet) cloth while heating iron to low-medium
3 - place the iron gently on the cloth and hold, checking progress. (how to know when to stop.... If the finish can be sanded, it is ok to plump the wood past level. Otherwise, just repeat until the area is close to level and use colored putty (from hardware store, or filling wood scratches) to even out.)
4 - take a break as cloth dries, then repeat as needed
5 - if finish can be sanded, use fine (200-600+ grit) to even out the spot, and touch up finish as needed.

The first time I did this, I was terrified - but it is actually fairly easy as wood repairs go! Good luck, and pm if you get stuck!
 
Hi, I not sure if I'm in the right place?Anyway I need help cleaning a Coach coin case I'm not sure what kind of leather it is.It has a soft feel and texture to it.The inside is clean but I'm having trouble with the outside.I also need help cleaning the leather trim and bottom of a Coach transatlantic flight bag,can I use saddle soap,mink oil or apple leather conditioner for any of these Coach items?For the transatlantic bag the leather edges are worn,how can I fix this.Thanks for any and all help!:smile1:


Link:http://s1231.photobucket.com/albums/ee511/iwashere7/?albumview=slideshow


Forgot One.

https://public.blu.livefilestore.co...uSdy2wrhAH__2EZ87rvkJGIzw/IMG_3424.JPG?psid=1

https://public.blu.livefilestore.co..._cqJhMX1jv-7aGQ0Edknxo8Rw/IMG_3426.JPG?psid=1
 
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