There's an article (written by Dana Thomas) on counterfeit goods in the January 2007 issue of Harper's Bazaar (US Edition). Dana Thomas's book, Deluxe, will be published by the Penguin Press in August.
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For years, it was easy to spot a fake. For handbags, the material was cheap, the stiching was uneven, and the logos were a little off. Watches looked as if they were made of tin or brass, and they kept rotten time. You couldn't even see through faux-luxury-brand sunglasses because the lenses were so cloudy. I remember walking into a hip-looking clothing store with my husband one evening in the French Concession district in Shanghai in April 2004. The racks were filled with Giorgio Armani suits. At least, that's what the label read. We picked out a gray one with a price of $150. The fabric felt cheap. The lining was cheap. My husband tried it on. The jacket was crooked.
But now counterfeiters are getting so good that it's becoming difficult to tell whether an item is legit or not. They buy real handbags, wallets, and clothes, take them apart, scan the pieces on a computer, and send the images via e-mail to their factories in Asia. With watches, they study the real ones and copy them with cheaper materials. I went to a Swiss-watch expert in Hong Kong to buy a fake Rolex. We were approached by a shady guy on Nathan Road, just behind the Peninsula Hotel, and we asked him to take us to see the watches. We went down several dark alleys, into a tenement that would have been condemmed in the United States, and up a rattling elevator to the sixth floor. Our hustler knocked on the steel-reinforced door and uttered a code word through the peep hatch, and we were let in. It was a dingy single room filled with four very menacing men and shelves of fake Chanel 2.55 handbags and the newly released Chanel J12 ceramic chronograph watches. We said we wanted a Rolex. He showed us a steel Oyster Perpetual and told us it was $80. It looked real to me. After a bit of negotiation, we got it down to $40. When we left, my friend said the watch was an excellent copy and that it would take someone from Rolex to identify it as fake...]
* Buy luxury goods from either brand boutiques or mainstream dealers such as department stores and brand-approved Web sites. Items available at a flea market, from a street peddler, or via spam in your e-mail inbox are likely to be fake.
* Report counterfeit dealers to the Internationl AntiCounterfeiting Coalition: Call 866-NOTFAKE, or go to iacc.org - DT.
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